shizzzon

not when comparing capacity to capacity...from what i've heard, the 100a fluxs are around 200 per cap.i'm still trying to find a dealer...so 2 100a caps is cheap than 4 d1000s which is $1000.i'm gonna be contacting harrison labs today about all this.

actually they make em over 1000A, they just don't show them on that page.

I have another question... I notice that you have 2 100A fluxcaps and 6 d1000s (300aH) Isn't doin it that way the same in a sense as runnin 2 200A fluxcaps, 2 d1000s and about 2 D3100s behind the fluxcaps? I'm tryin to do this the cheapest way because 16v batts are expensive. If i have a large 12v battery bank behind the fluxcaps, would this be sufficient in running 400A worth of caps off of a 250A alt and a couple D1000s for when the current draw exceeds 400A?

just run led strips all the way around the inside thickness of the port... that's easy. just find their brightest NARROW ANGLED LEDS for the upper portion of the port and WIDE ANGLED LEDS for the lower portion. If u use narrow angled on the bottom, the light wont disperse enough. If u use wide angled towards the upper portion, the light will be very dull and not bright looking.

i know alot about what they sell since i own a lot of their products. You superflux lights are VERY bright but u must realize that it wont be so bright that it will distort your vision, lol. That site is addictive because everything is so cheap.

i cant help you choose your designs. I can say that leds should not be visible if you want the glow effect. So just have the leds out of site but shine towards the viewing area.

I was asked by another person o ask if you were a reseller of Harrison Labs fluxcaps and if not where is a dealer to get a decent price for their fluxcaps? I understand how these work now and is a fantastic invention. I am probably gonna get 2 200A fluxcaps, a single D1000 (50aH 16v battery) and about 300-400aH worth of 12v batt behind the fluxcap. I only run 2 AQ3500ds so for music, that single 16v batt will rarely get used anyway.

the box should be that heavy, i'd say at the most 550lbs and that's pushin it, seriously. Now with bracing, it may end up bein up around 600lbs. I don't recommend putting any device in your box except for leds. Anything that has a circuit board in it will more than likely get damaged quick! your tires, you need to get the specs off of them and look it up for yourself or i can for you. Give me every little detail u can about what is says on the sidewall so i can find out for you. My stock tires were only rated for an extra 1400lbs of weight but the whole capacity of the car is only 800lb limit. When you ground your batts- Run ALL power across ALL power posts on batts. Run ALL ground cross ALL ground posts on batts. Run multiple grounds off each side of the battery bank so you don't have tons of cable coming off 1 post. I got 2-3 runs of 2/0 cable coming off each side of my bank (i did at one time, i might be fixing that later on) Some people may say that's overkill. It may be, but the more you run, the less resistance, higher voltage and more stable your amps will always be.

Tell your uncle that nobody understands the reasoning behind such bracing methods until they see if for them self. Pressure inside the box will be so great that you need the most bracing possible. You'll need to remove the panels in the back of your ride to find a good ground. After all bats are wired in parallel, i recommend grounding the battery bank with a few runs of ground to the same point.

if it's for daily use i wouldnt suggest it. If it's for comp, single note playback for a couple seconds at a time ONLY. Nothing is guaranteed but a friend of mine's 2 SSDs are being ran off of a 3000w amp right now without problems for daily so it's what u know and how u operate your equipment.

oh i called that one a LONG TIME AGO and i've never owned a class d sundown amp. Back when only the 3000D was out and was their most powerful amp, i already knew that amp was ideal to the AQ3500d. It was a pure toss up as too which i would buy but the aq3500d was still cheaper. When the saz-3500d came to the market, there was no chance. Sundown amps make exceptional output at low voltages period, can't argue there.

that is exactly my point to making that post because the kicker amp clearily is rated to provide less power but registered a whole 1.0db higher on the mic.

rated power isn't everything... A single kicker 2500.1 in a local competitors install produced a higher SPL reading at 0.5 ohm than a strapped pair of sundown 3000ds at 0.5 ohm! I seriously doubt it had anything to do with volt drop with over 10 runs of 1/0 wire and a bank full of battcaps. This was done a year or so ago but just making a point.

ok, well, i'm trying to interpret this so if anyone can chime in, i'd appreciate it- This comes from MECA 2009 rulebook for Modex division - 2. Only rubberized/asphalt type sound deadening material is allowed to be used on the floor in front the B-pillars, 2 layers maximum in any area. 3. Spray Foam, resins, duct tape, or any similar materials used to increase sound pressure score are permitted through out the vehicle so long as they do not violate any other rules. 2 - so i am allowed to use up to 2 layers of damp pro in my door... 3 - i am assuming this would also include this SPL sludge? This is the part that gets me confused... They don't put a limit as to how much you can use but limit deadener sheets to 2 layers...

JBL C608GTI MKII That's all i have to say

they probably said that because jl audio just cost a lot more and can't believe people are getting XCons which not only cost less than JL but are almost twice as powerful thermally and sound good doing it... 7-800 isnt anything, my local shop told me they charge $1500 to build my wall, haha, bye bye..

It's time to start doin some more research so time to get as detailed as possible with how to do this. I am planning on installing air ride in my car soon so i can upgrade my small 12v battery bank to all 16v batts and swappin my mechman alt with an external regulated system charging at 19v. This will be for me and everyone else interested in doing this- 12v batts float around 13.0v. They typically get charged with a 14v alternator at 14.4-14.9v. 16v batts float around 17.3-17.9v. They typically get charged with a 18v alternator at 18.5-19.3v. So now we got the basics covered. Most car audio amplifiers are not 18v capable. There maximum voltage input ranges between 15-16v. So, as you can see, most car audio amps cannot even run on a 16v battery with car off. But the amps that are rated for 18v... this is where it gets tricky. I have no experience with running 16\18v yet, but i got some pretty interesting insight from db-r and sundown the other day. 18v capable amps can definitely be ran off of 16v batteries with car off but running them with car on with regulator set at 19v is a 50\50 toss up as to what wil happen. 1 side of the story says the amp can handle it fine, the other side states it may work as long as the protection circuit doesn't kick in! So this info is going to be critical to know when doing 18v daily setup! It may be necessary to attenuate the voltage output on the alt to the mid 18s just to keep the amp on! Not to worry though, if you have some resistance in the line by the time the voltage gets to the amp, you are in luck, lol. OK, so now, how do we setup somethign like this? We have 16v batteries in the back for car audio but the car AND mid\high amps are only supported for 12v purpose... Well, this is where i'll be asking a lot of questions, This is for SINGLE alt installation. You will need an externally regulated alternator set around 18.5-19v depending on application. You will need a 16v starting battery and more of them in the rear. I have read to not use the 3 post kinetik batt as the majority of power draw will come out of the 12v post instead of the 16v post, the alt will only charge the batt up to the point of where the other 2 2v cells that make up the 16v are topped off leaving the 12v side non topped off or even fully charged resulting in battery failure in the near future. This came precisely from Powermaster a couple yrs ago. So, there is a 12v stepdown module... Question time- This step down module is rated for only 25A continuous use.. Any car will require more than this on a daily basis so am i suppose to purchase multiple quantities of this step down transformer and wire them all in parallel then run them all to the main car's power line? My starting battery is grounded to body of the car. My rear battery bank is grounded to the body of the car. I have perfect voltage readout at the front and the rear. There is no need to re-ground to a different location is there? 12v grounded accessories in the car have no effect on itself or the 16v grounding system, correct? It will be impossible to typically give someone a jump or be jumped due to the electrical system.. (i know this). Anything else i need to know?

well, the shop i am referring to, they put at least 1 show car in Carl Casper in Louisville, KY's largest car show every year and place every year too. I do not know if they put a competition car in the show or not but they have tons of trophies everywhere. While no shop will sell the perfect brands for everyone to enjoy, they do carry Powerbass and i believe this is the first time this shop actually is carrying something worth mentioning for a while. There last "monster company" was Alphasonik which is a joke... Now, before that, they used to carry MMats but that's oldskool right there. They have another division in my area and they are suppose to be far more up to date with competing but i know nothing of them... Speaking of letting someone watch while a shop installs.. you'll pay for it here! There is another shop around here that charges $60\hr to install anything u need including custom air ride, etc.... If you want to watch while they do it, it's $90\hr If you tried to do something and screwed it all up and need them to fix it and install it right, that's $120\hr. WAY overpriced!

This is true! Coming from his point of view, if you are purchasing mainstream products that almost every store in the world carries, then buying online will void your warranty because there are no authorized dealers. Now, new companies like SSA, IA, DC, Sundown, Mach5, etc.... who started out online and will continue to do so, they have authorized dealers online. These storefronts may or may not be aware of this depending on how much they keep up with technology. I will say this though when it comes to not listening to store employees- I have a local shop that i ONLY go to for no car audio needs or for small accessories like ring terminals, etc... if i'm in a hurry. I never talk about what i run because that, in an owner's mind, is rude when you know they don't carry the products you use and probably know nothing about them. How would you like it if you were a car dealer and someone came in and went up to a salesman and just started tellin him how awesome his import is that he has never heard of and it can do all this stuff and all the cars there are way overpriced because imports hold their value longer, bla bla bla, etc... The salesman would start gettin pissed. That's why i don't converse about my setup at shops. The only time i will is when someone at a shop asks about it. This means they are interested in what i am doing to my car. Nobody is gonna start bad-mouthing a setup to start a conversation so nobody else should either.

lookin good! You plan on competing in extreme or radical class? Reason why i ask is because you are gonna need a ton load of deadener in that driver door and passenger door if you are running sealed. I wouldnt be surprised if the total deadening materials come up to be 1.5" thick in both solid and liquid form. Honestly, even though the car is flexing like crazy, at least it's isolated to just a few main areas. The doors, the glass, the sunroof. Your windshield still appears to be fine which is good. If you fear that your side windows may break... i would invest in Level 3 from ACE Security. I'd suggest Level 4 if you never intend to roll the window down.

looks like i'll be helpin JammerJ with the rest of the install cuz LUCKY76 JUST GOT CANNED! Seriously, i would save money and only purchase materials in small amounts and keep goin back if u need more. remember, dont start spraying until you are 105% complete with the box. Just when u think u are done... u are not.

if the batts fit on the side, put them all there, otherwise put them in between the box and seat. For your amps, go to lowes and get some wood. Pull the box out of your vehicle and build you an elevated false floor and secure it to the floor the vehicle. Mount all amps underneath this floor and mount box on top. If you want to be able to access all amps without pulling box in case of a problem, while at lowes, buy some rollers companies install on computer desks for keyboards. The floor underneath the false floor will be able to be rolled out then.

It retails a maximum of only $3200 so it's nothing too shabby to be concerned about. I do not know the upgrade cost of installing the tank and compressor under the car but from how cheap everything else costs... i'm sure it's not too much more. There is only one other kit available for the tC, it's made in japan and costs $4000 and isn't even digital and some people reported problems with it so i was never interested. This is made by Easystreet. I'm already researching into filling my whole hatch up with amps and 16v batts as i am typing this...

u need to quite goin to home depot Only thing home depot has around my area is that triple expanding foam... everything else is at Lowes. Lowes carries EVERYTHING but the foam. 6 cans is to laugh at, you are gonna need about 20 cans of it. I used 9 cans on my car and my area is a lot smaller than yours is. If you've never used it before, here is tips- Wear gloves at all times! Spray in small quantities, it will get 2-3x larger within 30-60min and fully cured overnight. within 30 min, it wil start to get firm but no not put pressure on the foam until it's fully cured overnight. smaller dowels are fine. REMEMBER, angle or arc ALL corners. If you do not take up more internal space, your box will be tuned VERY LOW and u may not like that. If you do nothing to the corners.. it will be tuned to the mid to high 20s... he bracing takes up about 0.75 cubes, u need to displace another 1.25 cubes of space internally. If you cannot, then take 1.5" of depth off the box that is over the hump. The metal strips is steel. Go with a run that you cannot physically bend when holding it. The steel runs on the outside of the box help disperse more bracing strength through the walls that they are ran on. All-thread alone doesn't actually have a large dispersing radius unless used in conjunction with something else.

Mechman suggests i set my alternator to 19.2v if i upgrade to 16v. Will this voltage be safe for Sundown amps that are capable of running 18v?