shizzzon

When you do designs for people for free and teach them how to do it to save them the $1000+ fee a shop would charge to do it... When your pressure reading and your temp gauge read a like the first couple minutes from a startup. When voltage is more important than tires...

yea, not makin the box larger... but definitely need about 2 full inches if u install the outer nut after installing the top of the box if u can reach it!! If u can't... u would have to put it on before securing the top to the box which is even harder. Don't worry, if it's near impossible, there's other methods, just not as strong as steel,

hmm... I was wanting to run allthread vertically in your box... That would need to stick out of the box. Only other way is to use 3\4" huriricane or t-nuts and to be honest... i dont think they come that large. I guess in some places, gonna have to use other non-penetrating bracing.

ok, so i build it to be no higher than 41.25" high, exactly how much more space above that do i have in the center of the headliner height-wise?

no it's of no importance. make sure you are using a LEVEL when doing these measurements. So, the most i can get is 58" wide up to no more than 32.5" correct?

i told people a while back that i believe, not facts, that the AQ3500d would be comparable to the Sundown SAZ-3000D. When the Saz-3500d came out.. i knew it would slaughter the AQ because the Sundown amp makes so much power when the voltage keeps droppin... Because of it's capability to do this, measuring at the same voltage level, the sundown would be far superior to the AQ.

it's not metal sheet, it's 1\4" thick x 2" wide. You would do like 4 width-wise runs of it til u get to the hump.... U got me lost again... Before u built it, it was 41.25" from the hump high. Now, after this thing you built.. it's still 41.25" high from the plywood but the point at which the width must be shrunk is lower? How is that possible?

maybe u are not visioning what i am sayin. Let's say you are sitting in your aviator looking toward the back- why can't u do that? 2x4 is an example of what wood to use. I do not know how tall the hump is but u always measured FROM the hump up and got 41.25".

ok, so u are using the 0.5" sheet to keep the build level... Well.. you are gonna need to put things under this floor to keep it level to the hump but still... that's 0.5"... where is the other 1.75" lost at? you know... hehe, steel can be kept level just by running 1 run of 2x4 or 4x4 on each side of the hump and laying the steel on top... I'm tryin to get this height down... If you are not willing to do any of that... i will continue to built it... The capability of doing port swapping will be impossible, port plugging is the only alternative and like competition... more port area the better.. You may need to port plug just for daily but i wont know yet.. that's something further down that's of no concern right now. So.. either go steel or go smaller port, which is it?

i dont want to. If it increased port area, then your subs would be mounting directly into the thickness of the port.. It's different when it's 1.5" thick but just 0.75", you don't want that. Port area would remain the same. Can't u do somethin with the dance floor!?!? U are takin away 2.25" of height from the design... that's a LOT for a floor. If you run 4 runs of 1\4" thick x 2" wide steel from left to right of vehicle... that would save you 2" of height easily... hell, maybe even the whole 2.25". Just secure it some thick wood that meets the steel and floor then secure the wood to the floor.. it's all good there. You could even weld some steel to the steel and secure that to the floor.

well, this was a daily tuned box, not for comp use but i went to comp anyway for the hell of it. I was tuned to 38hz, in a 3.8cuftbox NET metered ~1120w of output power per amp after impedance rise, got a 148.0 in the driver kick with door open then backed it up with a 147.7

go back more? 58" is the maximum width you can go with... You go back more, and it cuts down to 50"... then in the 40s... it gets worse the farther back u go. I've got other ideas but i do not know how to tune them... Or should i say.. i believe i know how to tune them but i do not know the outcome.. People like Steve Meade and some other guy in a truck bed has done a design where you would build 2 side firing walls facing each other. At the back of the vehicle, the port shoots down in between ALL the subs. This design works awesome in terms of space inside of an SUV... In terms of performance.. i have no idea... You must ask people who have done it because i am dumb in that field.. I'm sure cancellation and phasing issues are the primary problem for such a design but i know it works.. just don't know how good. You also have another design i havent seen anybody try... I'm sure it's been done but here it is- a 6th order bandpass 2 side firing walls- 2 18s would be firing directly onto a wall a few inches away from the front of the subs. The distance from the wall is the width of the port! The other 2 18s are on the otherside of the vehicle facing toward the middle of the vehicle doing the same. The back wave comes from the very back of the vehicle and travels down the center in between both walls on each side, no cancellation or phasing at all there. So u would actually have 3 very large ports... the problem with this design is... i have absolutely NO IDEA how big any chamber should be... I could draw it.. just can't design it.

Whatever you've heard, don't run 4-5kw on a 9500.. that's ridiculous for daily and will eventually destroy it quick. My personal choices with the right box design to prevent mechanical failure would be the following0 DC Lvl 5, contact them in regards to custom designing it to handle the power if necessary. Soundstream XXX Treo SSX All 3 choices would still need to be monitored during playback to ensure no thermal harm is being done either. I do not suggest doing this install but if it's what you want... then it's what you want.

gonna have to put the build on halt then until we can fix this problem- I was under the impression that i could go up to 35 before shrinking the width... Because you say i can only go up to 32.5, that kills the chance of goin to competition with this build... Sure u can still compete but your potential would be a lot better if it didnt change. Port area has shrunk by almost 90sqin.

no, do the copper coils. Getting the aluminum with only that power isn't sufficient enough. They want people to use the aluminum if they are running a minimum of 2500w and max of 3500w rated amp for daily use. Can a copper coil take a 2200d? Hmm.. i did something by accident one time... i was lucky but this is real world scenario- I played a bass track that ran 16 different tones over a 3min 30 sec period at FULL clip by accident with the car on idle... I completely forgot about it. When i got back, the subs smelt like they just been barbecued but they didnt get damaged at all. I ran a 2200d per 12 in my setup as well. I took it to competition and full clip tones for 12 sec at a time and bassrace for a full 30 sec clipped to hell and back and the subs never smelt.. They have an outstanding cooling system.

i know that you are not suppose to put spectrum sludge over damplifier sheets but what i am curious is, for places that does NOT vibrate or rattle, would adding this new stuff help in higher pressure levels? What exactly i am asking is.. is this stuff used for the same purpose as damplifier pro? Just better? i have yet to sound deaden the inside doors of my car and curious as if i should wait and dump this stuff in the doors or just damp pro the inside of the door? for your info, i run a wall with pressure levels in excess of 156db right now.

the 8s were elemental designs, i remember, i believe he was only doin low 140s with that setup.. totally pointless... that 18 install, i'm sure it sounds good but i'm someone who likes to get as much potential i can and a sealed box honestly doesn't cut it for competition unless you have almost infinite amount of power on hand which is a waste of money... I know that guy wasn't into competition but something i do know... only a sundown nightshade 18 can be ran ported in the hatch of a tc without removing the back seats because of it's low box volume requirement. Gotta lose the spare tire but it's possible.

talk to secondskin about it. You might have to apply it to both sides. You might just need the spectrum and not the mix.... I know that's what i was gonna buy because that's like their last resort for end-all shimmers, lol. He should know which of the two products u need.

well, the damplifier really isn't suppose to be used for that purpose. that's what spectrum sludge is for. I just had lots left over so i figured i see what would happen... and nothing happened, lol.

the only underbody sound i know that emits from my scion back when i had a setup in the hatch was the Heat Guard over the resonator in the very back. I installed 2 small layered patches of damplifier pro on top of it and it didnt do anything. I later just forgot about it because that's when i built the wall. If this is what you are referring to, it is riveted in place so you have multiple options here... You can get a whole new exhaust system and eliminate the resonator... which would eliminate the heat guard. Or, you can remove it and put Spectrum sludge on it and screw it back into place and add rubber washers to screws when doing so.

please make sure u get all the questions answered. I think that's all i need to know. I do know that the wall won't reach the back of the vehicle where the batts and amps are so you'll have more room than you may think... unless i have to drastically shrink something once over the hump.

ok, i need some more measurements unless you already know- So, from front to back of this box, and from bottom to top- Baffle- I have 58" wide the first 35" up, then 50" wide from 35-41.25" high. That dimension will go back 14". The last time you measured everything, you told me from the front of the box to the hump was 26" deep. So... is it 30" deep now since u moved it up 4"? Also, once over the hump, u said it was 38" high... but u also subtracted 1" from the baffle height so is the hump still 38" high or is it 37" high? Also, you recently said that all the way up at the baffle, u can get 50" wide ALL THE WAY TO THE HUMP... So this means that for at least the 26-30" deep, i can maintain 50" wide correct? Also.. what is the width ONCE OVER THE HUMP? I thought the width shrank... if it does, what is it? And remember, u may not need those panels on either if you want to maintain 50" wide.

you will displace more volume by using multiple smaller ports than 1 larger port. Not only that, but 4" ports would still need to be just over 17" long each. I know it's almost impossible and not recommended to bend aeroports so if u need to go with a slot port which stays to the side of the enclosure, let me know.

okie dokie. Give me a couple hrs to 3 years before i get the design done, lol

So you want to charge about... five bucks below retail. Good luck widdat. I can't imagine why anyone would buy this off you instead of dealing straight with AQ to save $5. exactly, warranties are not transferable so there's no gain in saving $5. Attempt to either send it back to AQ and have them rebuild it as an 18 which may be more money or sell it cheaper.