shizzzon

i'm sure he's talkin about this- and prob the one to the left of it as well-

well of course but with plenty of experience with these subs, they do not shine until you start sending loads of power to them.

i like to know how u got the sub to stay steady while mounting it on the wall? Did u have to use a knee or foot? hehe. I know when i had to mount some HD3s like that before (48.5lbs) by myself... i hated it!

It is wise to use as much port area as possible. How much? well, i cannot say for sure exactly on a given ratio but i can assure on what i've been testing recently, port area plays a LARGE factor on spl output. Also, if your port is very short on the length side, you will also lose potential spl. I am currently runnin 144sqin of port area and whenever i try to shrink it down just 8 sqin, my score does drop! There is a point where you can have too much port area. This is why you will need a meter to find out for sure. A good rule of thumb is never exceed the area of port to the cone area of subs you are using. Now, for me, i'm running 706 sqin of cone area at only 144 sqin of port. Not my choice, my car is only so big. I always like to think of designs that are almost impractical to do but still feasible... Without a port in my wall, i have 185.75 sq in. If i can construct a port using thinner material or submerge the port inside the box without taking up port area.. i can gain some port area back! This is coming from a design that cannot be altered so worse-case scenario. I have a few ideas if i choose to alter the existing port area if i want to reach a higher goal.... More testing to come soon.

Jesus, well, might wanna advertise "requires upgraded batteries and suspension" hehe

i hope u arent plannin on runnin a single saz1500 on 2 AQ subs? If these are the HDC3s... u are severily underpowering them! You can still get the AP30001D and wire your subs in series to 4ohm nominal load and get a rated 1,800w of power or a hair more when clipped. Those HDC3s, if that's what u have, can handle one of those amps per sub when set right.

while this may be true, it can not be used as set in concrete. Efficiency changes with resistance. The higher the resistance, the higher the efficiency. I used to own a Cadence ZRS10 and i measured 94% efficiency at 4.2 ohms. I'm sure it's a lot lower than that at 1 ohm. Since resistance changes at every frequency, it is impossible to say that someone will achieve 1,500w of real power at 11.71v because of this. Due to efficiency changes, it may only be 72% efficient or 90% efficient but at such a high load it would be putting out no where near expected power. This is why it sucks for trying to quickly assume or quickly test power output... It requires multiple tools at once to find power in\power out specs.

alright man, just got back from buyin another DMM so i can get the meter workin again, this little meter is sweet, i'll show it to ya when we meet up again. Anyways, i gotta special order those O-scope probes and since i wont really be needin to do any emergency amp scoping soon anyway, i went ahead and bought this DMM so i can keep testin my car and yours too. I'll be to the point on this though- i need you to kill the rattle in your car before i ever meter your setup. Once you successfully do that, then i'll start metering your car and getting you higher numbers with various testing afterwards.

so does jl audio mean that it's constant power at a REAL 1.5-4 ohms or just stable wiring at 1.5-4ohms and will output constant power?

wow, i have never seen that happen before! How much do they weigh?

1. How old are you?----------------------27 2. When did you get into car audio?--------------16yrold 3. How did you first get into car audio?----------I was always surrounded by it in my neighborhood 4. Whats your favorite color?-----------Metallic or "hot" colors 5. Male or female?Male 6. Your first Car?----------------Oldsmobile Omega. Can't remember yr because it was bought out of junkyard and fixed up. 7. When did you first find out about this site?-----------whenever i registered. 8. How did you find out about this site?-------must have been doin some research on somethin. 9. What was your first system?----------haha, 2 10" Sanyo home speakers in a 4th order bandpass box ran off the rear outputs of the headnuit and 2 4x10s ran off the front outputs of the head unit. Back then, people thought i had an amp in there... 10. Do you have any pets?----------- 2 Bishons 11. Were do you live?---------Louisville, KY 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand?-------------I don't have a favorite but i tend to stick to the brands offered at SSA and Audioque, Knukonceptz for the rest. 13. Whats your favorite kind of pizza?-------Gluten Free 14. Whats your favorite kind of ice cream?-------Strawberry or vanilla with chocolate or strawberry syrup 15. Who is your hero in the car audio industry?--------uh... no one? I dont need a role model to look up to when doing designs. 16. Whats your dream system?------------Something just to see what it would do? A school bus layered in 2" thick steel all the way around the inside of the vehicle and filled completely up with bats, amps and subs. Looking for a 190 to happen someday for someone. 17. Whats your dream car?---------I dont like to think i have to win the powerball to get a dream car so expectations are always lower than most. Lotus Exige, multi-converted electric vehicle in Germany. 18. Whats the fast car you have drove/ road in? --------My Scion tC at 122mph. I'm not a fan of drivin fast, that's why i am into car audio. 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products?---------E-commerce 100% unless an emergency occurs. 20. What is your job?-----------Forklift Operator, Warehouse Distributor, Computer Technician, Car Audio Technician, Video Editor, Beta Tester. 21. Whats your favorite saying?---------I can't say here... 22. Favorite smilie?---------gay question... 23. Who do you think is the hotest person?---- Your mom 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars?-------Electric German Cars, independent companies. 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's?---------Anything that fits the job 26. Whats one thing that most ppl on SSA dont know about you?----- Ask your mom... no, lol, I do i lot of work that most people dont know about. I'm not just a car audio guy, i tend to LOTs of hobbies and rarely get more than 4 hrs of sleep everyday. 27. Do you now how to build a subwoofer box? If so how old were you when you built it?-------Of course, i dont know the age because it wasn't something spectacular to do. I do research on what i want to do then i do it. 28. Were would you like to visit?-----------London 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased?-----------Brake Pads. Gotta be able to stop better with an extra 450lbs of weight in the car. 30. Do you know who Chuck Norris is?Who? 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? I don't tend to view people like that because lots of people have their own intelligence in different fields and experiences with car audio so it depends on what subject in car audio is being referred to. 32. What time is it?---------12:50pm 33. What kind of computer do you have?------------I run 3 computers for myself right now and 2 others upstairs. For me, it's a laptop, then a custom Celeron D i use for graphing blueprints and fixing video game systems. My main pc is a custom Quad Core Q9300 with 4gb of RAM OCed to Quad 3.33 and 1114Memory. I do lots of video editing so processing power is a must. In a couple yrs, i will be building a Quad Socket multi cored system for the purpose of editing 1080p and higher graphics. 34. Whats your dream job?----------Entrepreneur successfully.

Head unit - Alpine W205 Image Dynamic 6.5s Front stage 4 Custom DC Soundlabs Lvl4 15s Walled 2 Audioque AQ3500Ds 1 Sundown 100.4 1 Mechman 250A alternator Dual 200A Paralleled Solenoids 2 XS Powermaster batteries 100sqft of Secondskin Damplifier Pro Over 30cuft of Triple Expanding Foam. 1/0, 2/0 and 3/0 wire throughout vehicle.

welcome to the world of rise where every frequency effects the output power of the amp... With that jl amp, all frequencies do not effect output therefore it's always a constant output value.

Yep, phi owns one on here, AWESOME amp for the price! Here is the specs - 1000w@8ohm bridged 1800w@4ohm bridged 3000w@2ohm bridged 1500w x 2 @ 1ohm 950w x 2 @2ohm 550wx2@4ohm We were getting the following yesterday when testing- 1246w @7.3 ohms 1497w @6.2 ohms

make sure the wire is plenty long for this. If it isnt long enough to each the other end of the terminal, u might wanna use as much silver in the solder as possible to get good conductivity. Anyways, you do hold the iron to the point of contact. This lets the iron heat up the point(terminal). You then brush the solder slowly over the terminal\wire and it will immediately melt in place. If your problem is when it melts it doesnt stay, u only need to hold the iron in place for a couple seconds at a time. holding it there will damage the terminal. Also, if it flowed on the wire but didnt stay after the iron was removed, you will need flux but at this point.... i'd just get a vice.

lol, that is true, i'm still laughin, hehe. I run 7kw because i intend on competing. I would only assume logically someone willing to up to 9kw only to show off or go to local comps even though it wasn't mentioned... it's probably implied. To run that much daily would very quickly be seen as too much headroom but i'm sure he already knows that. and from experience - If the RE SX can take 3,000w daily for 30-90 sec daily runs then i'm sure the RE MX can take 2250w daily to answer your question. And from current experience, if u do plan on runnin this for daily that loud, even for spurts all the time, a single 4500d on 4 18s will kill your hearing in about 3-4 months... Kill meaning a significant, noticeable loss. That's why i dont do it and i'm runnin 4 15s and 7kw. I heard what it can do and i dont want that for daily, that kind of output power is strictly for the lanes.

i built a wall with expanding foam and didnt tear my vehicle up. I layered all my upholstery with fabric and taped it in place then filled it in. my wall prob cost me around $500 ish after all bracing and adhesive\sealant products were used.

if u are referring to the subwoofer level control on the head unit... It's quite possible!

to be more specific, it's the regulator, not the alt. If you take a very fast bass beat, the alt will not even attempt to provide power for that. if u start a test tone, it's possible for the lights to dim at the start but immediately return to a more full glow since the regulator "sees" a current demand and supplies it. it's a lot easier to see this scenario happen with not even batts in the install. Back recently when i had overkill reserve capacity, i could sit at idle and pull 240A of current measured out of my batts and the lights would never flicker and no help from the alternator because i my rpm was below the "turn on " point. Then, i ran a single amp off just starting battery and 250A alt pulling 125A maximum measured current and i would have light dimming like crazy with changing bass notes, etc... I go to play a test tone and i would have no dimming at all for the duration... the regulator sees the demand and supplies power.

oh really, oops, lol I was rattling off lines off the top of my head, i got the first half right, hehe,

yea man, i'm still waitin on those specs so i can blueprint your ride to see if 4 18s in a wall can work for you. most 18s want around 6 cubes optimal so let's say 24 + about 4 cubes displacement for port and sub displacement ~ 0.25 per, you are averaging around 29 cubes GROSS internal But enough speculating, u get me the specs and i'll find out for sure.

u should be fine, yes. You should have no worries at all. you may get slight to moderate light dimming but don't get scared immediately. If it happens, it's just the alternator not reacting fast enough and is pulling it's current directly from starting battery until the alt reacts which is usually about 1 second. Now, if u get light dimming on a constant bass line... then u have a problem and need to turn it down.

the purpose of me telling u to move to another preout is to see if your sub preout is damaged or not

it's not the sub, it's the install design. I can't see any of these subs not "keeping up" with any music out there. Also, when i say comp oriented, i mean they are more geared for in the lanes for taking abuse and gettin u little bit higher numbers. If u wanna leave the option of runnin 9000w of power, hehe, u can scratch every single one of those off the list except for the HDC3s. You would be lookin in another line from all companies. You would want 2000wrms per sub. HDC3 Aluminums is what u would want from that list. IA DPs FI BTL RD Audio Elite Pierce Audio WMD2 Crossfire XS Sundown Nightshades SSA XCONs Treo Engineering SSX RE Audio MX Some of these lines may not have 18s, i cant remember, just off top of my head.