shizzzon

i dont know how much power u plan on running but i can tell u that 1 18 vs 2 15s is a 50-50 chance and all comes down to install. The 15s will rival an 18 the higher the ratio such as 4 15s vs 2 18s or 8 15s vs 4 18s and so on as long as the install is not a problem. If u got plenty of room for the 18 and gots the power for whatever u are lookin for, i'd go single 18.

for future reference- If u have to build a box in the vehicle and you can't screw adjacent panels together, try the following- Even using Titebond, it NEEDS some sort of bonding pressure for several minutes while the glue cures. I used 6" L brackets every 18" then immediately ran Liquid Nails thick beaded along all joined corners to ensure everything is being bonded together and tightly. After everything cures, run back over with Silicone II. If u have to tear the box down because of the spare tire, let me know. I will need VERY specific dimensions for your trunk so i can model it in AutoCAD and give u a design to build that would incorporate your tire in the car still. I love math

for a 3000w amp, anything less than 1/0 is retarded! I suggest using 1/0 for any real amplifier over 1200w if it can fit for the simple fact that you are not only trying to use sufficient size to prevent a fire but also to prevent as much voltage drop as possible. I'm not saying this to you but to everyone who reads this- NEVER try to save money by purchasing smaller wire just because it will probably just work... Always try to use the largest gauge that will fit in the terminal. It's almost impossible to go overkill on wire.

i started masking off my upholstery and wiring in my car in preparations to spray triple expanding foam around the box to seal it off and form the wall. It looks as though it may take me til this friday before i actually start sealing it because of all the masking that has to eb done and setting up barriers to prevent it from expanding into areas that it doesn't need to go! I did get just over half of all the masking done today. I should the rest of it done by thursday night, then setting up the barriers friday afternoon. I'll probably start the sealing procedure Saturday morning and just continue throughout the whole day. I am not a pessimist but i will not be surprised if it isn't 100% sealed by saturday night. I'll be testing it's sealing properties once everything is cured but there is so many contours and crevaces in my car that it's ridiculous. Oh, and once the wall IS sealed... i'll be doing port testing for about 3-4 weeks so there won't be any remarkable updates for a while as this will be a time frame where testing will commence and lots and lots of information will be assessed for ALL of the ports that will be built for SPL, Bassrace, Driveby, Daily driving and Port Wars.

for a 15 is 4-4.5 NET per sub. 4 is the more ideal for best performance. For copper coil- ~1200w for keeping it mainly in the xmax range for good sounds. ~1201-1800w for moderate clipping levels. ~1801-2400w for light clipping levels and for short durations such as a minute at a time. ~2401w+ no clipping and for short durations such as a minute at a time. Aluminum coil- up to 3,500w with light clipping. ~4,000w no clipping and for short durations. Make sure you give the sub approx 2-4 weeks of break in time to properly allow all the spider layers to loosen up equally to obtain the best potential possible.

the AQs have a 3" Xmech value, that's why you can tune high and still retain the low end. For the utmost all around loud design for the 18, build 6 cubes NET tuned to 40hz. I'll be honest, 40hz wont go earth shaking low, it'll audibly roll off around 32-33hz. 38hz tuning is great for loud street beating. 35hz is the lowest recommended for low end street beating. Any lower and you start sacrificing 50hz+ range.

i would go AQs because they are cheaper than most subs in it's class, immediate recone requests and i know their potential. I've messed with AQs for few yrs now, i don't own their subs right now because i am on a different Team now but if i had no weight limit issue, i would still be using them.

u can but it's gonna almost be like runnin free air... that and a HUGE group delay... almost everything that would come out of that box would sound "muddy" as if all the bass notes were soft and blended with each other. I would seriously make it smaller or buy another one.

well, you would normally lower power requirements when a larger box is built and this is strictly due to mechanical reasons. If the mechanical limit didn't come into effect, then you could still run 5000w... well u still can depending on what this install is for. If this is for daily driving ONLY, then i would recommend(if u already have the amp), then i would wire the sub in series and be done with it. If this is for both music and comp, i would extend all runs of terminal wire out of the box so u can wire in parallel or series whenever u need to. If using for comp, make interchangeable port and keep internal volume as large as possible, tune port very close if not actually at your peak note to restrict mechanical movement. If you do not already have an amp and it's only for music, then drop power like said above or add another sub.

Anybody compete here that needs custom tones? IE - precise tones, for example, 52.175hz vs 52hz or 52.621hz vs 53hz? IE - do u have a lot of power in your car... too much to burp for 30sec straight but can't or do not want to extend your head unit out of the car to adjust volume levels? I can setup custom tones so the audio tracks will do it for you. Have your peak tone gradually come in via fade and blast a burp for any specific duration of your choosing then quickly fade out to a low level to prevent heat buildup or damage. Let me know.

Intended for Sound Pressure League vehicles that have non-permanent modifications behind the B-pillars that are designed to maximize sound pressure level. Includes vehicles with woofer walls. Vehicles are still capable of being daily drivers. That's what it says, woofer walls fal under that category as long as it can still be a daily driver which it is.

Gots another vid. My buddy at work actin goofy, lol. He usually holds his ears when he's in my car but i talked him into not so this is some of the pain associated with listening to Bone Crusher in my car.

so i DO have hope! Someone on here told me if i went to MECA with my wall i'd me forced to be in minimum of MX1. I wanted modified 3 or 4 and it looks like i still got a chance, After i seal my wall up this week, starting next week til the end of august, if u got that long, i'll be testing with some other local teams in my area in regards to gettin this setup hella-loud so it will benefit both of us with walls. PM me if we lose contact in the future.

Calm down? u got some nerve, I'm gonna come over there... ##$@^%^*%^*^&( Oh wait... this isn't ca.com I wasn't yelling, that's just me, strict humor to the point.

There is too much damn kerfin goin on lately. Don't flare me up!

well, i'm only doin a 152.19 with 4 15s and 7kw of amps... i believe i'm lackin. I would add though that i'm gettin less than 1300w of power out of each 3500w amp so that might make up some of the reason but i'm still not no where near done workin on it yet. Back on topic- Dan Rydewski does over 154dbs with 2 18s and a 5000w amp at 36hz so u got a ways... He has his port on the driver side, port area unknown but nothing astronomical. He has his entire enclosure rhinolined inside and out as well.

i'm not implying you are using bad quality rcas, just possible they have become damaged. It's also possible that the head unit is at fault. Try ANY rcas, i dont care if they are for home audio use. Just run a set and see what happens.

do not invest money in a line driver for your problem. Both amps have the same input sensitivity. If you have the other amp still, hook it back up and see if problem still exists or not. cheap alternative is to replace rcas. because the noise gets quieter the more the gain is turned down means you have unwanted noise seeping through the rcas. Focus on that only and nothing else.

what class? MX1 or 2?

I hope there are a lot of wall or has-been wall users out there that can contribute to this thread. I'd like to see some suggestions for wall users on increasing their spl potential. I am about to seal my wall up soon so after i do, won't be too much more moddin possible in that area of the car. I'm lookin for 155s hopefully. I'm wanting to stay in Modified 3 in MECA and i am assuming they'll qualify me for that class... I have a scion tc with a wall behind the b pillar about 5 inches back. I will be using 1 60A fuse for each of my 2 3500ds. I am wide open to suggestions to get louder.... I have yet to meter myself the MECA way but in the driver kick i did 151.7 clip-free and a 152.19 clipped heavily. amps pullin around 130A per amp so that might be low enough not to pop a 60A fuse but who knows. i am about to seal the wall with lots and lots of expanding foam. I will find my new peak frequency then build multiple test ports til i get loud. I will try smaller port area after i find my peak to see if it helps as well. I may try to slightly angle the port toward or away the mic to see if that helps since i am a few inches behind the B pillar. I was thinkin about filling my rear floorboards with mass but i dont think i am allowed to per the rules.... I dont know really what else to do... MY sunroof leaks air, i can try sealin it up more but besides that.. i dont know anything else to try.

And a stripper too? You add that too and u definitely gain some Dem Boobz

ok, gots some more updates- my last burp was a 151.2 in the kick non clipped... New change- i got the amp's gain matched now. New reading in the kick- 151.7db! I went up 0.5 db. I then decided to clip the hell out of the subs... I then reached 152.19db! I went up another 0.5db. Again, i should be breakin 153s on the Tlab mic or very close if u have read my meter comparison to the TLab mic. The next thing i gotta do is seal the wall off and find my official peak tone.. I dont know if i'm gonna gain 3dbs by just doin that but we'll see. I'd also like to add that i currently have hellacious rise in my box... None of the subs have yet to emit a stinch from severe clipping and i'm only metering around 130A current draw from each amp at this tone i'm burping at... so i still have tons of reserve power to unleash if i wanted to. I "can" wire these done to 0.225 ohms to each AQ3500d if i wanted to.. but there's no advantage of me doin that as of right now due to what class i wanna compete in MECA... Also, we put the meter at the headrest and it gave off a very odd funky reading of only 143x dbs... i know what 143s sound like and what 150s do now and at the headrest... it bloody hurts literally so there's somethin wrong there. Also, i gots another video for u guys- I found me a car audio "fan" who loves bass so i got his reaction as well-

for low cost, u gonna have to do a wall then to reduce the volume. Tune to the high 20s, low 30s with as much power as ur budget allows. You really need to be breakin 150s tuned low to get decent movement.

OK, ALL tones and sweeps are done. BEFORE DOWNLOADING, PLEASE READ BELOW! A lot of these audio tracks have likely potential to damage your audio setup. I take no responsibility in the misuse of these tracks nor the neglect that people have been accused of how they setup their own equipment. ALL tracks are properly made, clip free and will not cause system failure as long as your equipment has been properly setup and you know exactly why you choose which tracks to play. Sine Wave compilation - Recorded at 0db. DO NOT INDUCE CLIPPING ON YOUR AMPLIFIERS WHILE PLAYING THESE TRACKS unless using for short bursts such as competition. Square Wave compilation - Recorded at 0db. DO NOT INDUCE CLIPPING ON YOUR AMPLIFIERS WHILE PLAYING THESE TRACKS PERIOD! EXTREME ABUSE CAN BE CAUSED FROM THESE TRACKS. VERY SHORT BURSTS FROM THESE TRACKS ONLY! Sweep Compilation - Recorded at -3db. These tracks are safe to play on everyday setups. Again, though, try not to clip your amps when playing these sweeps as there is no advantage. These are testing tracks and should be played properly. Square wave information- There will be abnormal "noise" when a square wave is played. This is normal. The frequencies besides the centered one in the track are outputting in the midrange from 150hz and higher typically. It is heavily important if you choose to use these in competition that you do not clip your front stage when playing these tracks. The amplitude in the midrange is about -4 - -6db but if you plan to clip these square waves, you could damage your front stage. A good idea would be to unplug your front stage when burping these square waves. If the mid frequencies are blending in with the centered frequency from the subwoofer(s) then your LPF is set too high and needs to be lowered before attempting to burp with these tracks. To download, you MUST download ALL parts of a compilation. Sine waves have 6 rar parts. Square waves have 4 rar parts. Sweeps have 2 rar parts. Use Winrar to extract once all parts have been downloaded. I hope this new package does everyone some good. Happy Tuning

that is a bass boost. On your headunit, whatever you set the frequency to, if u "add" anythign above 0, that frequency will be centered upon so by boosting it, surrounding frequencies around it will also go up. Think of the hyphens below as a frequency range between 20-100hz ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now boost 50hz by +5 and it will look like this- (periods mean nothing, just look at the hyphens) ...............................................-----......................................................... ..........................................------------..................................................... ......................................------------------.................................................. ...............................-----------------------------............................................ ................-------------------------------------------------------.......................... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- You shouldnt need to use this because it will not allow your response to be flat and that's what you want. By peaking your response will likely induce clipping and clipping can over time and even during very short periods(seconds) cause a speaker to fail due to overheating, over current, over excursion, etc...