shizzzon

an HDC312 is 48.5 lbs if u use proper bracing on the baffle, weight shouldnt be a problem.

engine noise can easily be seen as how it is being grounded. I would swap out rcas but before you do, i would see who the culprit is... It may not be every single set. Just 1 set can spoil the whole bunch.

it took me about 10 hrs after the operation before i felt like eating again. It took about 36-48hrs to actually feel like walkin around the house and doin normal things. It took 4-5 days after operation before i could feel normal working since the pain and pain pills were affecting me. It took about 2 weeks before the hole in my mouth healed so food could finally quit getting stuck down there.

those subs can handle more than that. Benhemp used to have a strapped pair of sundown 3000ds @ 0.5 ohm on a single SPL12 and it be fine with it.

i dont know anything about them having problems shuttin off, lol, that's a new one. Now, overheating- they told me just like with any alt, never put the alternator in a scenario where it has to be wide open for long periods of time. These types of high powered alternators do not have extensive magical cooling systems like our cars have... radiators, probably because it would be too big to fit in a vehicle. For music, they say since music is dynamic, output changes rapidly and doesnt cause that type of problem but if u were charging batts with a high output alt wide open, that's bad. Alts are suppose to be used to KEEP batts charged, not to charge them. Also, if u got a 250A alt, dont try to run a 15,000w stereo system when u know for music, it's gonna more than likely pull more than 250A constantly which would burn it up again. Letting the alt run while the car is moving is the best cooling you can do. Letting the car sit there shile u got it revved for long periods of time will heat the engine bay up like crazy.

well what happened was when i designed this setup in AutoCAD, it was suppose to be for 28" deep. At the time, it "appeared" that i had room to extend it to 30" deep but i never drew it out on AutoCAD, i just assumed it. Well, i had went ahead and cut all the pieces assuming that 30" deep would work... well it didnt. I couldnt shut the hatchdoor, hehe. So, after 2 days worth of trimming and modifying the underside of the design, i am finally able to get it to fit in the car with the door shut... The design is 1\8" of an inch from touching the rear hatch glass. I'm gonna be taking some luxury liner pro and gluing it onto the back of the wall so the glass has something nice, soft but firm to rest on if any vibrations come off of that back side. I dont know if u read but i am gonna me making my own copper all-thread rods soon if i dont find any copper bolts in town. I'm gonne be stoppin by some electric shops tomorrow and tuesday to see if i can find copper everything... preferably pure silver but i doubt i'll get that lucky.

ok, i got a tap n dye set so i'm thinkin bout just buyin this copper rod as mentioned before and threading the outside, like all-thread. i'm gonna stop by 3 different electrical shops this week and try to find some pure copper nuts and washers(optional). i'm also gonna be lookin for pure copper ring terminals but if not, i'll just get the gold plated kind. and for other poster- probes resistance- 0.25-0.28 brass resistance- 0.40-0.46 resistance in brass bolts- 0.15-0.18 in my book- terrible. i'm hopin using copper all-thread and nuts should give lower resistance than brass bolts and steel nuts.

ok u guys better come up with somethin different or i will continue to run all wire through pvc pipe and seal it with expanding foam... I just got back from measuring the resistance across brass bolts and i got between 0.15-0.18 ohms. This translates as follows- For every 1,000w being sent from the amp, only 850-870w is getting through. So, when i'm over here running 7,000w of power. Theoretically, if the amps were to be able to output 7,000w, the subs would only see up to a maximum of 6,087w. That's enough to lose a few tenths of a Db easily.

i see someone here knows who Lifeline is. Great choice on those batts. I always wondered how they would hold up in competition. I know for street beatin, they are monsters. I would have went with Lifeline but didnt have the room at the time. Also, i wouldnt mind tryin Rolls Surrette batts.. but i dont have $1,000 for a battery, ya know, hehe.

been runnin into some complications with the build but finally fixed them a few minutes ago so i should be back on track. I was suppose to have the box completely built by tomorrow... that "may" happen but i doubt it. I'm lookin more like monday or tuesday now. After it's built, allow a couple more days for my corner pieces to completely cure before i start throwing the subs in the baffle.

i'm not tryin to start somethin crazy because i know FI would know more than anyone else about this but it appears, and correct me if i'm wrong, that ever since they've converted over to the new mags that these problems have been happening. I do not know if it's problems during shipping if they are more fragile or if it has something to do with the way how they are built but like any company, they would be losing money repairing the same type of problem over and over. IF it starts to become a normal occurrence, i'm sure they will start to investigate the issue.

I work on xbox360s and let me tell u this- If the board gets to the point to where it requires the use of a heat gun just to get it working again, it wont last long.. if it reaches a month, that might be a record! Single red ring is usually an indicator to go buy the new ones so you are not proned to hardware failure. Very few single red rings can be fixed. Most all 3 red rings can be fixed. NO fix will last forever. Forever meaning forever, 2 yrs is not considered forever in my book. I do sell "preventive failure" cooling solutions but i do tell the customers who owns them that this helps but depending on your gaming habits and how the console is sitting, nothing can prevent imminent failure. i am currently researching ways to modify the entire internal structure so i can pull the drive out of the case and use all that extra space as a massive cooling base. I am trying to keep this modification under $100 so it seems appealing.

safe? If you can keep the wire on the rcas then yes but do NOt connect it to the amp's ground. If that wire ever comes loose and touches the wrong thing... thats why i dont recommend grounding it to the amp itself. I would solder the wire onto the shield of the rcas using the highest amount of silver possible in the solder. very briefly touch the rca shield when iron is hot. You may need to put some braid or something that wont burn between the iron and the shield so you can heat the shield up slower while melting the solder. A quick way would be to tin your wire then just heat up the wire and let the solder flow over the shield and be done with it. I've never soldered onto the shield so if it doesnt work very well, you may need to use flux.

onto the technical side, i am unsure as to why this happens but it's not rare.

i thought this could be it, turns out it was. All it takes is one rca line to malfunction, it can feed back through the head unit and disrupt all other lines as well as it appears is what's goin on. that's why i said a while back in this thread if u eer got any extra rcas connected and just lyin around to pick em up as it can pick up enough interference to feed back as well. So, how to permanently solve the problem? Well, here's the kicker- Even though you have swapped out HUs, we have narrowed it down to 2 things, either the HU still or the rcas. Why am i considering the HU? Because you are still using the same brand. As with Pioneer, their HUs have been known to do this as well. A quick cheap simple solution would be to swap out both rcas with new ones. If this doesnt work, you must manually ground your rcas.

yellow = HOT red = ignition

another thing, after u have tried what i said above, take a wire and touch the frame of the car AND one of the rca's outside shield while connected to ONLY one amp at a time and see if it does anything.

OH ok... unhook ALL rca jacks then plug up just the substage and see if u get anything. If you do or dont.. unplug the substage again and only plug up the other set. Also- make sure u do not have any other rcas ran off of that HU and are just sitting in the car. IF you do, pick them up.

if worse comes to worse, i hope u have a bench tester, or just any 120v to 12v converter so u can pull it all out and start over 1 piece at a time.

Ok, lets go over everything- You have 1 amp powering your sub stage. You replaced the HU and it still does it. Your door speakers are wired to your HU. Even the radio does this... You must look at what hasn't changed. The door speakers wiring and the HU wire harness are still the same. However, since no bass outputs at all when door speakers are off too, i'm leaning toward the wire harness... Something behind the HU is touching something it isn't or something back there is malfunctioned that is a part of the wiring back there.

if it's not the ground, i'd check to see if any wires going to your speakers are grounding to metal.

r u sure brass is a good conductor? It's somewhere around #7 as the most conductive metal. Wouldn't i loose a good portion of power due to resistance in brass bolts?

ok, i'll check it out once i get to that stage.

i see, i dont have any resin left over from any job but i do have pvc pipe like crazy left over.

u dont want me to do my method?