shizzzon

got this done today but had to stop due to lots of rain coming.

There will be some more pics of the enclosure being assembled soon, probably this weekend so this build log will resume this weekend. Some other things to know- The DC 15s are commin this weekend as well so i'll have 1,000 pics of those, lol The graphic that was posted a while back showing 6 runs of allthread is gonna be changed. After previously using all-thread and seeing how strong it is, i am downing the usage of all-thread runs from side to side from 6 to 2 runs. The steel bar bracing on the sides will also be removed as it will not be necessary! 3/4" all-thread is hella strong, lot stronger than i thought. There will be a slight delay coming soon as well as predicted. The front baffle has yet to be cut and painted and this will cause a 3day delay once i get to it. I am trying to get everything done by June 13th... this is the goal. At the moment... it doesnt look like i'll make it, lol, but i'm tryin.

if u want general knowledge, go to www.bcae1.com and www.the12volt.com For box building, i'm not for sure where to go specifically but i'm sure one of those sites i listed or doin some more searches will help find the answer. Once u get the info for buildin a box and understanding bcae1.com, then come back here and ask some questions as u will have gained more knowledge then.

no you cannot, just use a Y splitter. Also, being careful has nothing to do with it. I proved that in my experience on here a while back. A slight defect in shipping that isnt visible outside of the amp's case can cause catastrophic failure when strapped because they rely on each other to work properly. That's why i run all my amps separate with a master controller so they both "act" like they are still joined but aren't.

from my experience and from talks with a local shop from their experience with strapping, it's safer to run amps independently. If one amp fails or goes into protect, it will more than likely take the other one with it.

I hope i get dawged for this one, lol ALL the 3500d pre-buyers who thought they were gettin a good deal until Sundown posted about a 4500d possibly coming next year just after all the hype about the 3500d..

if u need any more info about this, let me know- For $30 of your money, you can spend to purchase the proper coded boot disc so you can play snes, gameboy\gameboy color, sega genesis, etc on the ps2 as well using the ps2 controllers. To play NES, you will need to purchase a separate $30 disc and to play Atari 2600 games, they all get loaded on your memory card because they are so small. If interested let me know. There is a work around sometimes on paying money for these discs by using a hack but it requires multiple disc swaps before u get to play a game and find it completely disturbing at times.

pretty cool arent they? i had some of this material left over from a bathtub install kit. if i run out of this stuff, i hope i can find some more or something equivalent. i was originally gonna do Formica but after i cut the width down to 10", it became almost completely stiff, no more flex in it so i discarded that idea. i wanted somethin stiff yet flexible enough and very slick feeling. that is exactly what this material is and it's great. it's held onto the wood using contact cement, 2 coats worth. and that 3/4" all-thread is no joke! just running from side to side for that rear chamber strengthened the top and back wall even more!

Ok here are the pics-

You guys want to see the rounded corners??? Well, i'm about to apply the last corner tonight then take some pics of them. I will be rounding the upper corners as well but can't right now because i would have to build more of the box before that happens. Pics in just a few minutes so stay tuned!

Got the bracing done for the rear chamber just now. I will go back later and lay down Liquid Nails and Silicone II around all the seams but i finally did get all the bracing done. I have to round those corners before i seal everything up and that's the secret you guys have been waitin to see... and me too, hehe. Here are some pics of the bracing- That is 3\16" steel and 3\4" all-thread held in by Lock washers and Nylon Poly lock Nuts Had to use a crescent wrench, an elongated wrench and a pipe wrench to properly tighten these nuts. But once they are tightened... WOW, this whole chamber is rock solid right now. If i blow on it, it will shatter, hehe

not really, as long as u have a program that u can understand and find port area and length, and have a skillsaw, jigsaw or router with circle jig, powered drill, saw horses or equivalent, titebond, liquid nails, silicon and plenty of bracing if needed.

besides the one u named, Audible Customs Thumpper and that one guy Peter Kulicki, the mastermind of loud, hehe. He doesnt have a forum here.

he hasnt before has he? I wouldnt trust local shop only because they may alter dimensions if they have their opinion about the design or charge ridiculous price if they have to built it to spec.

Hey, he sounds like me!, exactly like me! I use WinISD and AutoCAD as well. CAD is so perfect for drawing out a design in your vehicle then being able to fit things in the drawing so u know exactly how to put them. It's gonna be a nice design using that software.

he should be giving u NET volume. NET means everything is accounted for, all displacements. That's one thing the RE calculator cant do... is sub displacement. ALL box calculators volume calculation is done by NET only. I'm sure 1.8cuft he is telling u is NET, not half Gross, hehe, you also have port displacement too.

its been a long time ago since i "deboggled" the RE calculator but it is indeed wrong. There are things it doesnt account for and because of this, it's near impossible to properly calculate a proper box design.

well, only 10yrs, definitely your fault now, You know what i'm gonna say... Gotta get ahold of Jacob, see if he can shed some light before making your shipping decisions.

did u have the amp mounted to the box?

OK guys, got some more anyway. If you remember the design i posted of how it should look when it's done, well i still wanted to get some more done today so i did! This wall has an extra chamber in the back of it for a lot more added volume. So, i built that chamber today to save some time. There will be a lot of bracing goin on in there. All-thread, steel maybe... oh and about the corners... You guys like 45s right? Well, i'm not gonna do 45s... I have had an idea on a corner design and i'm gonna attempt it with this new design. Rounded corners, very smooth material used... contact cement to hold it in place... heavily sealed around... i'll let the pics do the talkin when i get to that stage.. I'll keep it hush hush for right now

yea! For those wondering what the hell those little long pieces of wood are, let me tell u... It's wood... Nah, hehe, actually they are "bump stops" for the port plug. IF you notice, some pics show a large port, others show a small one. Here is why- The smaller port utilizes those "bump stops" so he can slide the extra sheets of wood in for music and tune it LOW for daily. When going to a competition, he can pull the plug out and WALA, he now has his box tuned to where his car peaks at. We have tested his car previously to this build for a couple hrs before we found the perfect tuning and box direction for this type of variation. He has the best of both worlds with a simple, yet effective design.

not personally but i do know that a single sdc2.5 can handle a single AQ1200d which is 1470wrms @1ohm. It all boils down to a completely clean signal. If you run a clipped signal to these with that kind of power, bye bye to those subs. You will get the utmost maximum potential with that kind of power but it must be clean clean clean, That's why i say, if u go with one of the first 2 choices, you can send a small to moderate clipped signal to each one every now and then and it "should" be alright. If you know what to sense before somethin bad happens then u will be ok.

I've seen threads like this all the time and made one myself before as well. So.. before it happens... STOP. Try not to turn this thread into a large speculation conspiracy on what happened. This hurts a business's reputation and puts improper views on potential buyers and makes them think otherwise due to speculatory conversation. I know it sucks it happened but wait til Sundownz gives you the correct information on what happened. It doesn't look like your intentions were to create a large speculation thread and that's good but for those who are considering it, don't. In the end, it's a big waste of time and some viewers may take theories as fact posted in threads like that and create "false" rumors about a company. So... unless someone else has specifically had a problem like this, just wait. Also, we do want to know what settings you are talking about that were tweaked and everything bigjon said so we can get a glimpse of your installation and see if we can sense anything wrong.

need more power than that. If you dont have access to an oscope, then i vote either of the 1st too but if u do have access to one and will setup the amp properly, i'd look into a 2000-2400w amp personally.

i've seen the internals of the 7kd and it looked like a kid built them... So, i'm not surprised one bit. also, if u bassrace and compared the two amps, i'm sure the Sundown would walk all over the 7kd and thats without hesitation.