shizzzon

that amp may be overrated but not that much! stick with running a 1000w-1500w rated sub at 2 ohms and u should be fine.

This is gonna be a noob graphic question because i have never had graphics installed on glass before, just paint. None of my windows are currently tinted except for the rear hatch window. I am about to receive 9 separate graphics that are all gonna be installed on glass on my car. 3 on the windshield, 2 on each side window, 2 on each rear side window, 1 on rear tinted hatch window and 1 more on the small piece of glass that flips up when the sunroof is open and this piece is limo tinted. My question is, do these graphics go on the outside of the glass or the inside? If they go on the inside, how would i go about installing them and having the windows tinted because i am gonna have the windows tinted very soon.

OK, I FINALLY got the floor secured, yea!!! Now i can start building the install. I did just realize though that i am not gonna get to far this weekend because i gotta wait til Monday to have my car retinted before i block the windows off, lol.

sundown1500d-type R Kicker ZX2500.1-RESXs or 2 sundown 1200ds or AQ1200ds on RESXs

you dont want to run AQ subs sealed or they will sound bad.

i'm actually gonna be using 3\4" allthread because i didnt like the flexibility of 1\2" allthread at over 4ft long, lol. So, just flat fender washers and galvanized nuts, huh... Do i need to use any threadlocking material or just tighten up and be done? I always assumed with that much pressure the nuts would loosen up in no time.

Never used allthread in a high pressure install so need some small tips in this area. I know that when allthread is ran from one side to another that washers and nuts are used on both sides of a wall. So that means 1 run of allthread will have 4 washers and 4 nuts on it. What kind of washers and nuts am i suppose to use inside of the box to prevent them from coming loose? I looked at nylon lock nuts but i cant use those on the inside because to get the nuts on the inside, you have to roll em on before you slide the allthread through the other wall. So, roll nut one way then back the other way to lock in place... nylon nuts appear to only roll in one direction so i dont know what other type of nut\washer to use.

set the LPF to around 70-80hz. The lpf will set the point at which the frequencies ABOVE where it is set at to start rolling off... or becoming a lot more quiet. Your subwoofer should only be playing low frequencies. So, tuned to 33hz, probably should play around 28-65hz without attenuation.

20 seems too low. Get a test tone cd and play 24hz over and over and over. turn the subsonic filter all the way up. Turn the head unit to your maximum possible playing level. Slwoly start to turn the subsonic filter back down until the subs exhibit the maximum excursion that you wish for them to move and you are done.

OK, this should sum it up- Don't put a Wii in there unless you plan on playing it behind the car on a big tv setup in the rear, too small of an area up front to play. You could run the Gamecube, that's a thought if u like the games... The PS2 is a great choice all around. The Xbox360 is completely out of the question. I work on 360s all the time and trust me, you do NOT want one in your car. They can barely survive in a house, what u think is gonna happen in a car? Over 60% of all xbox360s before the Jasper motherboards are expected to red ring at some point in time within the 3yr warranty period and then some afterward... 85% of 3red ring errors are due to either the solder remelting and shifting to other contacts or the board warping and breaking solder connections. Other 15% are due to hard drive failure, disc drive failure(physical hardware failure which is rare), etc. And once it red rings(3rings), that xbox will never be the same again. There is still no eternity fix for the 360. Sure, i can fix them and they may last a year or years but the fact is if the solder ever remelts again or the board rewarps again in any area that can change contacts, it's not worth refixing over and over. I am working with a local machine shop and am doing some extensive research on starting to do my own cooling solutions for the xbox360s for repair work and prevention system damage so the console can run like a normal video game system without fear of failure. One thing i havent seen anyone mention is a computer in the car... Why not put a small pc in the car and load that thing up with emulators?

700w Class D Bazooka amp $99.

OMG! I hope u have 10,000 of these. If this is posted in other forums, ... these will sell like crazy.

He should run the Warhorse on it but i'm retarded, lol Seriously though, be very careful with this new setup. I'd personally get plenty of headroom worth of power for your amp but let someone set it up properly so you don't catch this on fire because these currently do not use the flame retardant materials...

make it less gay

wow, that's a great idea. Be sure to use plenty of sealant. The airspace lost would be so minimal, it's not even worth calculating. Or if u plan on using multiple runs of rod, like 6 or more, just take ~0.3 cubes of airspace out of the box.

Several hrs later after last post- he banned me for a week on ROE for calling him out on the fact that he does nothing but treat me like a bitch This is an admittance from the "Bitchee" that he, himself, has just been Can I get a bow and a round of applause? I have Excer..ci...sed the demons...... This Thread is Clear! lol

2x4 is actually 1.5x4 so take it like that. And Jay, where the db numbers at? , hehe Are u gonna wait until slamology?

im not a noob. i would definitly call myself a rookie. but i am not a noob.

yea, yea thats right. 12v is over 6000w, 14v is 8400. And that power range is between 4-8ohms.

Strength is an illusion, you dont know what strength is.. bla bla bla, hehe Just messin with ya. Wooden dowels would work great if u can get ahold of some. That or 2x4s

let me put it like this- Lets take a 1000w sub, any sub, 1000w and it's nto some crap u find at the flea market for $40 either, ok? Let's say somethin that SSA sells. I'm not gonna run a 1000w amp on it. Oh no, i think that's stupid. You need headroom. Headroom allows a clean signal to always pass to the sub without clipping. No clipping, less heat build up... So, i'm gonna run double the rated power! Sometimes more if for competition but for music, definitely double! This accounts for multiple things- 1 - music is dynamic and changes power consumption very rapidly. This allows more power to be installed than what will be used (as long as u have a clean signal) 2 - impedance rise plays a big factor. You may be able to run a 5kw amp on a 1kw sub all day without clipping and be fine if your rise was hella high. 3 - headroom never hurt and is preferred ONLY if you know how to properly setup an amp. Simply put, noobies may think a gain control is a volume knob and as long as there is no immediate distortion or smell then all is good... Well, that's La La land. If the gain isn't set right, if it's set too high, a 500w amp can kill a 1kw sub any day. Oh and to answer the question about the Sundown amp.. NO, it's not a 1500w amp. Go to competition with it and burp test tones, OR play constant bass lines with music. You will have the potential to pull that power out of that amp, or any amp rated that. Rule of thumb when finding out power draw when preparing to buy new electrical system is take 50% of all fuse ratings of amps and you need that much charging current from alt or aH for batts.

hehe, u can take the nightshades off cuz they more expensive than any FI product. For cheap priced, i'd look into Mach5Audio, their IXL line more specifically. They are rated for 1000wrms so i'd suggest just a single 12 off of a 1000-1500w amp and all be good. Go to their website for box sizes for car audio and u should be good to go.

dont those amps do over 8,000w at 12v at higher ohm load?

OK, i got some ideas on how to secure the flooring to the car. This is the part that sucks too. For those who have never built a wall with the intentions on not ruining anything... here is some tips! First off, use plenty of plastic sheeting.. but be aware because that crap will get in your way a lot.. Second, which is where i am at- the floor must be PERFECTLY still while mounting to frame of car. Due to the way i measured this install, if the floor shifts in anyway other than the right way, it will throw everythign else off and the design will not fit in the car... that's how tight it is! So.. i must be very careful when attempting to secure it again soon. This new method i'm thinking of will take about 2 days to mount so let's hope it works. As you can see, i am somewhat ahead of schedule as i wasnt expecting to start til this weekend so if i can get over this hump, we'll be lookin good! Also, my Custom Vinyl company contacted me today. they "should" have all of my graphics shipped to me by next Friday. Yes a total of 10 new graphics is being laid on the car.

Well, i have officially ran into my first problem... i cant even get the floor mounted!?!? I'm tryin to mount the floor to one of the main beams that runs across the car. When i drill the hole, the damn screws just wont fit... If i size up any larger, the screw will just fall straight through the hole. I dont understand it. I know of no other way of getting this floor secured to the car except through this beam and i cant even use it... So as of right now, i cant start this project until i can find a way to secure the floor...