shizzzon

mechman and iraggi alternator makes 300a alts for some cars... if u got the money, usually close to 700

oh, hmm. This is more mechanical than anything. Get someone else out there with you and meter the battery terminals when in park, gun it and see if you get the same thing on a multimeter. First, we gotta see if your dash gauge has a faulty sensor first. 2nd, it's possible the voltage regulator may be damaged. 3rd, inspect your belt for extreme slippage. Also, check for corrosion around battery terminals and alternator.

i'm assumin that's a 4800w amp? If this is strictly for daily drivin, get the largest alt u can get, 250-300A for your ride. For batteries- a single D3100 can keep up with that setup as long as u have at least a 250A alt. You "might" have slight voltage drop but nothin below 13.0v, lucky if u drop to 13.5 if ur alt runs at 14.9v that is. If u want utmost solid voltage possible, dual D3100s would be like the master system for your electrical needs. You still need a high output alt regardless.

how r u measuring this?

If i dont have pics tomorrow night, then i will have them here Thursday. Why not wednesday? because i'll be sleepin durin the day to go see the new Terminator movie at midnight, Ok, update- I got 62% of all my sides cut today. Tomorrow, i'm gonna try and get the other pieces cut and modify some existing pieces according to how everything should look in the picture above. Then.. if it's still bright outside, i need to see if i can simulate me sliding this box as if it was already put together through the door so i can find out whether i need to build this thing outside or in the car... If i find out i gotta build it in the car, that's fine. I already have about 20sqft of plastic sheets and access to 100s of sqft more so i can mask off the entire car if necessary. I will be stopping by a "hobby shop" tomorrow to see if they have anything that may assist me in getting this box to glow in the dark :0 If they do not, i gotta order everything online which will delay the build time.

Hey mcdizzle, thats cool. And since u havent never been metered, i'll meter you when u get down here. My meter is a LOT more strict than the TLab so whatever my mic says, you should post around 0.8-1.2Db more at the competition. Jay-C76- PM me when u get some numbers on those Icons and what frequency you did it at and what note u are tuned too.

hey, let me know somethin mcdizzle bout that battery u suppose to be gettin this weekend.

Well the deka intimidator is under $180 shipped and is perfect for a daily driver. This is not from experience but i dont think they'd do too well for competition but for daily driving, they are awesome. The kicker can be had for under $600 shipped. The AQ HDCs can be had used, the aluminums for around $300 shipped. I know if u get a fully loaded BTL, it's around $500 i think. But those are options scattered everywhere now, lol.

Well, noob or not, nobody should be called an idiot, that's goin overboard. If u are like someone else today that asked what to expect from the BTLs... I told him with the right know-how, a single 18" BTL off of ~2500w should clear a 150 if done right. I would expect a 147-148 on music daily with a setup like that too. And i also told this guy nothing fancy about the build either. Just a nice strong enclosure and a day or 2 of testing should yield those numbers. It all depends on how much power u got and what room u have. I like to go with the most cone area i can fit then add the most power i can run for a given situation.

Well, for subs in that power range- BTL AQ HDC3 Aluminum coiled DC Lvl4 XLs or Lvl5s Omega These subs may not all sound alike, but they can all get extremely loud for the money. Amps- Saz-3000d AQ3500d Hifonics Colossus Kicker 2500.1 Massive audio 3000.1 Batts- HC2400 Deka Intimidator Those are examples, but like i said before, if u like to upgrade in the future, it's best to start with nice equipment because u will be able to get higher end equipment more quickly in the future.

I'll put it this way- There are options to go with cheaper equipment and still yield close to if not the same output... but, if you stay with what u want now, the resale value will always be higher than the cheaper priced equipment so when u go to sell it later in the future, you can always upgrade to something better, just like a car.

Well, if u have no humor, then i'll be humorless. You are comparing a BL that is rated to only handle 1kw and a BTL that is rated to handle 2kw... Hmm, i wonder what has better potential for more output... Also, while i'm at it, i wonder why FI would have this on their webpage- "Need incredible Xmax to feed your 160dB at 20Hz obsession? Add our extended length coils (28mm of Xmax)" If it couldnt play music... then why would it be able to dominate possibly in the 20hz range. I had "assumed" you read about the sub on the actual webpage but I see you haven't. No offense to you personally but it's like we are spoon-feeding noobies. All forums have a search function. This website definitely has no excuse because a large amount of manufacturers run their own forum section here... Including FI. And just for kicks to keep the hype goin.. Guess what Steve Meade runs It sure isn't the BLs.

the BTL is the best sub that FI makes. FI does not make any SPL only drivers. The BTL will handle abuse, be more efficient, will handle more power, has more options, weighs more, costs more, has more crazy videos, has the most different letters for it's name, is the first line to choose from on FI, etc... So, with that said, i vote SSD Hopefully that answered ur question.

well thats fine. You wont hear the rear speakers when u r driving so unless it's for the people in the back... you dont even need rear speakers hooked up to the head unit either.

when should we expect the next test? I'm unsure which one is next? 45degreee the rest of the box? resin all the corners now? rip the 45s out and arc next?

You need to not amp the rear speakers. With that much sub stage, find a set of components that can take the sundown 100.4 in bridged mode at 320wx2. One set that comes to mind is the high end JBL series. They can take upwards of around 500w i believe. Also, that battery is not really recommended for that kind of amp. If you do not have a high output alt, then u will need a HC2400. The HC1600 will dip voltage a lot quicker using stock alternator. Also, if u still have voltage issues with the HC2400, then u need a high output alt, not another battery. This battery i suggested is an addon next to your amps, not a replacement battery. And when connecting your components, do NOT use 16awg, use 12awg, especially for what i suggested.

Get a 4awg to 8awg reducer if necessary. Wire up to 4awg will fit in the insert and the adapter is a standard 8awg fit that would fit in the terminal. Although... never used on speaker terminals for subs, the springs may not be strong enough to hold them in place like a screw can.

maybe, maybe not. 8awg really isn't that large diameter-wise. Even though most amps may state that the max speaker wire size they accept is 8awg... the insert is actually quite bigger as long as you do not expect the casing of the wire to fit in there as well. I'm gonna be running a @$$&%$%* ton of wire for speaker wire in my setup soon just because wire is so cheap but also doin it for comps too so every little bit helps.

Now hold on there with the pics, hehe. I've been pushin to get this install done so i can here these 4 8s. I'm curious on what it's gonna sound like. After that, he'll be gettin his setup goin. Crossin my fingers but we gonna try to get a decently high score with his upcoming setup with a single IA20 and a pair of 10" SSDs. I'm hopin for a 155 at least.... nah but seriously, i'm gonna try and get a 143 at least out of this setup. This 4 8 setup is strictly daily driver as stated before and I have absolutely no involvement with the setup so no numbers with this setup.

Well, lets look at what i'm basin it on- i've seen 2 18s and 5,000w of power do a 154.6 I've seen a single 15 and 4,000w of power do a 150.2 I've seen 2 12s and 3,000w of power do a 148.0 A single 18 and about 2,500w of power should be able to. but it also must be designed for comp use as well. I would assume to expect 147s, maybe 148s for music.

off of about 2,500w, you should be able to break a 150 with some "know-how", nothing crazy.

Here is some more designing before i start the build... I was actually gonna start it today but the temperature dropped over 20 degrees in one day here so i'll try and get it started tomorrow. Here are 2 pictures. After looking at them, read below to understand what u are viewing because this is how the box will be braced. OK, the first image showing a gray X on the side of the box with black lines going the whole width of the box. The black lines are All-Thread rods, 3\4" thick. They will run the whole width of the box, 4 runs as you can see. The X image will also be on both sides of the box as well. What is the X? The X is made up of Steel bars. One steel bar will be on the inside and the other one will be on the outside of the box. This will allow the entire wall to be solid rather than just relying on the All-Thread points to disperse it's strength enough to do the same. If you look at the 2nd pic, you notice a red vertical image, this is suppose to be 2x4. There is actually 2 of these per side of the box. Since the large port is in the way, i can't run my 5th and 6th run of All-thread from side to side so i gotta do a little different bracing- I run 2 2x4s on each side ran right down in between subs. The 5th and 6th run of All-Thread will run into the 2x4 and be connected at this point. This way the 2x4s brace the top, bottom and entire left and ride side of the box. The back part of the box will be braced with easier methods. The smaller circles shown in the pics that show the 4 15s is the Magnet width so i know how much room i have. There will be a lot mroe bracing in the rear of the design but this bracing image shows the complexity of what i will have to start to do pretty much as soon as i start building it. Yes... there will be plenty of pics too.

Wow, so technically... the BTL may like 2 2,500w amps for short durations, As long as u keep it cool.

oh ok... Wow, that's impressive then. How much power u gettin out of those amps? approx 5kw per amp?

Hey, unless i missed somethin in the post, if u have only been able to get up to 155.6, how did u get that 155.9 in your sig?