shizzzon

Trust em, your rear suspension is not hating you, I own a scion tc with 156lbs of battery, 97lbs of subwoofers and 110lbs of box with 32 lbs of sound deadening and 28 lbs of amps. My rear end wheel well is almost even with the top of my rear tires. I will be rebuilding and moving the system into the back seat area because nobody can sit back there anyway because of so much weight.

it's due to too much current. If they shorted, lol, then you have modified the design and warranty is void. If there was too much resistance... then there would be less current so it would be improbable. I've set a sub on fire before so i know what you are referring to, same principle. Excessive current to cause this is usually caused from severe clipping.... so i'd suggest you retube your amp via o-scope.

You guys are gonna kill me by me postin this because the noobs will now post-whore this website down with sub vs sub, hehe. while i do agree that the majority of difference comes from install, sometimes, a large portion comes from equipment as well. An example i read a while back is Audioque's equipment. I don't remember if it was a 12 or 15 but that's not the point in this example. Someone took an original AQ HD3 sub and swapped it out for the new AQ HDC3 sub. The new HDC3 is a LOT cheaper and suppose to be better. How better? A direct swap increased spl output by 0.8dB! the install wasn't modified obviously so equipment does play a good role even though most may not agree that it's a tiny bit. Now, i dont tend to do the sub vs sub thing because it's almost impossible to answer UNLESS you have physically done swap out comparisons. One can't compare one sub to another in a different box, different placement, different amount of people in the car, different temperature in the car, different altitude, etc.... If you got about $50,000, go and purchase one of every sub out there and to drop in comparisons and see for yourself what's the best for your application. But then... not all subs work in the same box.... so now the install - sub ratio will change.... Point - too many variables.... stop sub vs sub thread.

awesome i'm in Louisville too. I have a sundown 100.4 if u ever wanna check that out.

post where u are located so you can meet someone.

Here is what is going on here - If you do not put a fuse on it- It is common practice not to as is the norm. You will have less resistance going directly to battery. If the fuse pops and the stock wire is still intact... it may either catch the factory wire on fire or will pop the internal fuse and fry the voltage regulator by spiking the voltage! If the fuse pops and the stock wire is not there, it will fry the voltage regulator due to voltage spike. If you do put the fuse on there- Excessive current will not be possible( this is VERY VERY unlikely because an alt can only produce so much current after heat loss) If the fuse pops(due to a short), it wont damage the battery. PLEASE NOTE - if you can't connect a wire going from the alt to the battery without worrying about a short... you shouldnt be installing the wire, Not putting a fuse on there outweighs putting one on there. That's why most dont.

This isn't to sound sarcastic but if you have only wired a couple systems before yourself or especially your first one, it's always good to skim through the book to make sure there isn't no "new feature" that you gotta be aware of before turning it on for the first time. NEVER switch to slave while the amp has power. This is one of those instances.

just curious. I know most engine bays i've seen, the alt is pretty far away from the battery, total opposite side. But i was also curious even if it was just a foot away. Okie dokie then.

You ran the ground from the alt directly to the battery? I've never heard of anybody doin this... wonder if that's wise? You also said that you would rest at 11v but your voltage would drop to 10v then back to 11v when music was turned down or off... Just a tip for future reference- Take a fresh battery, 12.6v batt and hook it up through a cranking simulator at auto zone. It will pull it's rated CA so let's say it's 600A. When this happens, the batt will drop from 12.6 to 10.5v then will immediately recover to 12.2v... then 12.3, then 12.4, then 12.5 then 12.6v You see, battery can still be 12.6v and not be fully charged. Likewise, batteries "recover" once they are discharged and depending on how good they have been taken care of is dependent on how good they recover! Your battery sitting at 11.0 or 11.x is not good! the battery can sustain major premature failure if it sits in a state like this for months. The batt needs to be fully charged immediately and checked again a few hrs later to ensure that the float voltage does not drop below it's normal value.

122 in my scion tC Stock

are they near or in direct sunlight a lot? maybe that caused it.

I use to tune to 30-32hz a lot but was missin out in the high 30s to mid 40 range. It wasn't no where near as loud. (i am referencing ported boxes, not subs) So now, i tune 38-40hz for subs that have high XMech values because they can drop low enough for me and still be crazy loud in the 40hz range. Example - i am currently tuned to 38hz. My Subsonic filter is set to 24Hz. See what i mean? Audibly, the design drops to around 30-31hz before it's mostly mechanical noise but no music i listen to is loud below that so it's perfect for me. I listen to plenty of rap, rock, techno

I dont own a nightshade but i think you are good where you are at. True, 2 12s are better than 1 15, however, the gained SPL would be so light that i doubt you would notice a difference. As long as you are not clipping the amp too much, lightly, the sub should take it fine. It hasn't had problems yet has it? If it doesnt heat up and give off that glue smell all the time then you are fine.

$4,500? That isn't nothin. He's gonna need about $18,000 Don't forgot about you gonna need air-ride afterwards with all that weight unless this is just for a week until your suspension collapses.

XS Powermaster A D5100, D2400, D2700 or D3100 should be fine. I would also purchase a battery solenoid as well. If you do not, you may eventually prematurely kill your starting battery. A solenoid will keep the batteries separated while the car is off. While on, they are mixed together just so they can be charged and isolated again once car is off. You do not want different battery technologies, brands or usage hours mixed together without a solenoid.

I just came across this company- Titanium Power They manufacturer amps that seem pretty intense but nobody sells them... Odd isn't it... Anyways, i'm trying to find out if i ever found a company that sells them... if they are any good... I ask because i like the TM8800.1D 8,800w @ 1ohm.

wouldnt not as low be better voltage, hehe. It will prevent it from dipping as low for sure. By not dipping as low will prevent the voltage regulator from stressing as much as well. As long as you dont keep it at full blast the entire time you are driving, you should be fine as you must give the alt a few minutes every now and then to keep the batts charged.

take out the cap and add a minimum of 60aH in the rear. It won't hurt the alt to charge more, it will just take longer. If you start smelling something under the engine bay getting hot all the time, that's the alternator. If it does it frequently, it's trying to output more power than what it can do at a given rpm. That's bad for longevity.

Resurrecting an old build log as new again... If the last post is still curious, lol, the mechman alt is fantastic. 14.9v when charging, 13.8v when not in use. It does get hot so if you do not have the battery power to run a setup while sitting on idle, you could end up overheating the alt. I have 237ah plus factory battery up front to run 5,000w and i have never seen a dim light yet at idle. OK back to the purpose of this post- I am resurrecting this post because... a new design is coming... Goal - to break 150.0dB with 2 15s in an '07 Scion tC off of 4,400w of power tuned for DAILY use. Purpose of goal - Well, main reason is simple, motivation. I had the privilege of hearing snoopdan's ride and was impressed. Gave me an idea on a new enclosure design that i will be testing soon as the weather gets warmer as the design plans seem promising. Right now i do in the 146s for 2 12s and 4,400w of amplifier power but the box is not big enough so a new design is in place. It will be approximately 2-3 months before the project gets started\finished but this is what it consists of- 2 Audioque HD15s( the original made in USA versions ) 2 AQ2200Ds = 4,400w 1 D3100\2 D5100s 1 250A alternator Box design - I can't go into detail yet because i haven't tested it yet as there are two designs that i am debating on but i can tell you this- Because of the weight of the stereo system, i am moving the new design in to the rear cabin area so i am removing the back seats for the new design. The car will be sealed off where the main support beam runs across from side to side which isolates the back seats from the hatch area. From there, a very large box will be made for 2 15s ported around 40hz with SSF set in the mid to high 20s. The HD, HDC3 and SD line from AQ have very high mechanical excursion limits that allow them to be tuned high to be very loud to the ear while still dropping excessively low shaking everything in it's path. I am not thinking about it but if an offer comes, i may change amps for something more powerful but only if the timing is right, otherwise, i'm keeping my amps.

I guess i'll be the first to say this since after 21 posts, i still don't see this posted- You can't ask the question which will be louder by doing a direct sub swap and nothing else. that's an almost impossible question to answer. Secondly, yes the Fi Qs are their SQ sub line but CVXs aren't bad subs either. You keep wanting SQ and LouD... Everybody wants good SQ but loud for their money... who doesn't? You broke me when you said that you used bass boost. HOW ARE YOU GOING TO GET A FLAT RESPONSE WHEN USING BASS BOOST? You might as well pull the sealed box(es) out of your ride and build a nice ported box tuned to 32hz for example and have someone else set your amp up right because it isn't setup correctly right now and you will definitely love it over what you have now. Basically, you have a setup that is designed for your tastes to have good control and "suppose" to have a good smooth range in spl to your ear but you have bass boost engaged which is centering a boost at a certain range so it just throws the whole flat response out the window. So basically, you DO want a ported box. Go back over what i just said because this is what you have told us and i just explained what i means so re-evaluate your goal seriously because i think you want ported and just don't know it or are trying to tell yourself you don't wnat it because you have either never had ported or a bad experience or are afraid because you may think ported is just a devastating peaky, boomy box.... If you think the last option i said... that's bandpass... not ported, (bandpassed designs are not a good choice for music clarity.) The bandpass design i am thinking on doing in my sig is kinda complicated.... Not the same BP i am referring to if wondering.

i bought this sensor its awesome i hit 141 in my car at the dash...and 157 in the port hehe i was just curious what it would be but here comes to... how close its to the TL ..it should be better than AC ... :bigclap: We already compared that question? That was the whole point to the topic. The TL will read higher. The Hyperdynamics sensor is stiffer than the Tlab so to answer your question, the Tlab would probably read around 142.5-143 and the port would probably have read around 158.5-163db.

I am using the velleman off of partsexpress. I believe it's the hps-10

Leaving your identity, my opinion and the rest of curious minds pondering aside, the main reason why someone like me would post such a warning is to prevent the site in which is hosting such information that is now public to remain active before they are possibly contacted for freely hosting illegal information without a means to terminate such activity. It will eventually get posted, it is here, it has before, most forums do eventually. The more you spread "underground" information publicly, the worse it is for everybody.

6 Copyrights 6.1 All materials presented on this site are available for the distribution over the Internet in accordance with the license of the Russian Organization for multimedia and Digital Systems (ROMS) and intended for personal use only. Further distribution, resale or broadcasting is strictly prohibited. 6.2 The Site remunerates the fees for every downloaded File in accordance with the license agreement. 6.3 All trade marks, trade names, company names, slogans, logos, and any other copyright items, which can be seen on the Site pages in various contexts, are the property of their respective owners. You have no right to copy, distribute or use them without written permission from the owners. 6.4 The Client has no right to download any Files from the Site if this violates the law of his country. 6.5 The Site Administration can not control actions of each Client therefore the Client is responsible for any illegitimate use of the Site's materials or/and Services. Guess what... that link posted above is illegal to actively use if you are located in the United States or are bound by the laws set forth there. The licensing agreement for the link posted above which directs to ZML makes it legal in RUSSIA so if you are from there currently, then you are fine... otherwise this is teh same as posting links to illegal activity and can get people into a lot of trouble.

If money wasn't an issue? The only reason why I would say Yes is because that is "the meter" everyone knows. When you want to compare with the rest of the world, why not use what the rest of the world is using? However, for me, that's different. It may be fun to burp your setup every once in a while but i am in no way turned on by being a member of any sanctioned audio competition. It just doesn't interest me. Electronic modding\repair and computer work is what i like best and i stick to it. That's who i am. When i got this meter, based upon what i knew, it was going to be used to help me setup a design the best for my money. It did that. I had no intentions on comparing. Also, because it reads lower, it's interesting to note that you could use this meter to "force" yourself to reach a goal in competition so when you actually went, you would be a lot louder! It's safer to carry around though! With a Termlab, you have to have the meter AND a laptop (usually). You don't want to keep a laptop in your ride at all times. I do carry my meter with me just as i carry other test tools with me. This HD meter only requires an o-scope or a very good DMM capable of reading mV. Carrything those items around isn't that bad. Of course you may not know what you did until you get to a computer but i dont meter every other day either. I may meter a couple times a year, if that. And yea, i've been gone a while but i'm back... I'll be back again for a while because i'm tearin down and redoin a setup in my scion tc. the goal is to break 150.0 tuned for a musical daily driver... I have ideas