shizzzon

The Termlab is the official meter for most comps around the country but it costs close to 700 and most individuals sigh away from the price. Hyperdynamics meter through ebay costs less than 100 but retails for around 350. They claim their meter is stricter than the Termlab, slightly (0.1-2.0db lower than Termlab between Db ranges of 120-170). Db ranges 171-180 have been noted to post upwards of almost 9 Db lower than Termlab. This meter also goes up to 230Db accurate whereas the Termlab goes to 180 accurate. Hyperdynamics is used to test explosions, bombs, shotgun blast, etc... The reading methods are very different as well. Termlab- Just hookup to laptop and watch your score LIVE!! Hyperdynamics- hookup O-scope to meter to read out the active milliVolt reading. Once that is obtained, you input the mV reading into this small program that is ran on any windows based computer and it will tell you what you "hit." A little more complicated, definitely not sufficient for competition sanctions but for personal use and over 600 percent cheaper... Definitely worth it. The debate has been for over a year that no meter is as good or stricter than the Termlab and is cheaper... That cheaper! Until now... snoopdan was kind enough to travel out my way to do this test. Much thanks for snoopdan. Ok, what we did was we held both meters beside each other and played 42hz tone for about 10-15 seconds. The results @ 42Hz- Termlab - 143.0dB Hyperdynamics - 141.909214 or 141.9 When i had opened my door while turning it down the Termlab shot up to 144.7 hehe. Well, Apparently Hyperdynamics was right! The meter I use is more strict than the Termlab. So what does that mean? This means that if you had this meter and used it to see how high you would "hit", expect a higher score in the judging lanes. True it is a little more complicated to setup but once it's ready... It's a nice alternative. The loudest i've ever done in this car with my current setup is a 145.513... who knows maybe it was close to a 147 on the Tlab??

Projector 1- 720p native, 1080p capable input signal. 2000 Lumens 3000:1 contrast Price - 750 Projector 2- 1080p native 1100 Lumens 14000:1 contrast Price - 1350 Condition- Both screens can project a 96" image I want onto my white painted drywall, no screen! No other lighting can tamper with the viewing area. Viewing distance is 10 ft away. I DO watch 1080p video but only on a 720p native 51" rear projection TV. I have only watched 1080 natively on my 22" lcd. I love the quality of the 720 but am undecided on which to go with. On my white wall, is projector 1 strong enough to display quality imaging? Will 1080p be better looking than 720 on 96" image 10ft away? These are the things I'm curious about. I love the quality of the new 1080p lcds/plasmas and looking for something pretty darn close if not better with one of these choices, definitely not something worse than 720p rear projection.

Atomic APX 10 can handle up to 15,000w of power. Orion HCCA 10 can handle up to 4,000w of power. Cerwin Vega Stroker 10 can handle up to 4,000w of power. Treo Engineering CSX 10 can handle 1,200w of power minimum. Resonance Engineering MT 10 has an undetermined power handling rating. Also, don't forget the Critical Mass UL 10.... but this sub is in it's own category.

I know what you are wanting to know so hopefully it will come out right- There isn't one speaker that will be "god", there are many. What makes a speaker different from another, or better than another is how you perceive sound. Different materials used to make the cones, different ways tweeters are made will effect it's sound output. Not everybody likes one particular speaker. The specifics are what most brands tell you- what type of enclosure, t/s parameters, x-over settings... That info is so you can set it up properly to get the best sound from that part, but to make that part better than another has to do with the materials used. research different types of materials for speaker building so you can decide what you might like the best then go to your local store and listen to speakers that you know use certain types of materials to get a general idea of the sound difference.

yes but i had mine installed, i dont feel like reguttin the inside in 30 degree weather. This procedure to engage the "glitch" only takes 8 seconds. After that, i drive away. I just wanted to break it down in very simple terms so no one is lost, hehe.

I don't know if this is old news or not but i just stumbled across this so it might be helpful for others. I'm assuming this will work with all other car dvd players that are wired to where you must be in park and have the hand brake applied twice before video will appear. OK, this is what it can do- The purpose of the safety feature is to not show video while in drive.... however, a glitch in my Alpine allows to show video while i'm driving and only shuts it off when the brake is pressed so for road trips, , you need not a video bypass. What i did- While i was in a stopped position, you could even consider just starting the car a stopped position because you only need to do this once unless you shut the car off. While in a stopped position, have car in Park with the hand brake OFF. Stick in a movie. The movie's audio will play but no video. Raise hand brake. If still no video, without reapplying the physical brake(because u are still in park), release the hand brake and reapply it. Now you should have video! This is normal so far. Now, this is what i did next- I took the car out of park while the hand brake was still applied( make sure you are not on an incline when doing that). You should still have video. If you do... then that's it! You can now drive WITHOUT the hand brake applied AND allowed to be in Drive with full video. The only time the video will shut off is when the physical brake is applied and held down. If you are stopped for a while and want to see what is going on, while holding the physical break(since you are currently stopped), apply the hand brake then let go of the physical break completely. To move out of your current stopped position, just release the hand brake and drive. Since the video only shuts off now when the brake pedal is applied, it makes it a lot more convenient. This is intended for those who either paid to have the stereo installed or those who installed it the right way and don't feel like payin the $17-$30 for the bypass PLUS either takin your car apart again to install it or finding a "shady" installer to do it without proof. So, hope it works out for you as easily as it does for me. also, while there is no video, there is always audio playing so you are still "involved" with the movie for those few brief seconds where you might not have video when the brake pedal is applied. Now you see how effective this technique is for road trips.

sounds like me before i upgraded, I was running a mobile sempron chip in my desktop because the vcore is lower by default... so better OC capability. I upped to a Q9300\4GB RAM 1840FSB and lovin it, it's night to day with this machine. You can get the whole build, ASUS P5Q PRO\Q9300(or Q6600 if you tryin to save money), 4GB Corsair Dominator(the ONLY QVL passed 4gb memory dual channel install for this board that also supports using same sticks for all 4 slots), for under $500. I am also using Thermaltake's V1 Cooler as it's suppose to be the best air cooled HSF packaged combo out there. It destroyed the $90 Zalman they comparedit to in some review i read before i purchased it. It's freakin large so if u were to use it, make sure the inside of your case has at LEAST 5.75" from mobo mounting plate to opposite side panel door.

Ok, i dont know if i'm the only one who has noticed this but if i leave SSA forum open for a while then come back, my browser, Firefox, has refreshed the page showing the newest articles and posts, basically, it's auto refreshing the page without me being there. It doesnt do it with other websites so i figure it has something to do with SSA's new forum that was made several weeks back. So, is this true?

Well, OCing the memory just a little makes a visual difference. As long as one can change the memory divider in the BIOS, it doesnt matter what the multiplier is set at. If one can not change the memory divider... well, hehe, then that's a big problem with OC'ing. You'd pretty much have to get 1066 just to be on the safe side. I had wanted to get Corsair's DDR2-1142 Sticks but they arent compatible with my board so i just got their Dominator 1066. I've ran it as high as 1119 without problem but i dont have the time to start tinkerin with it again. at least for a long while.

Just a guess, if your wife likes to go creative with her page by using 3rd party profiles and graphics, then that is most likely how you got infected. AVG wouldnt be suited for fixing that anyway. The majority of things you will be infected with is spyware and other forms of x-ware along with trojans. Virii will usually only be seen by downloading illegal files.

true with the multi-partition. However, a router does NOT make a person's pc safer, not even 1% safer when it comes to being infected with virii, trojan, x-ware, etc... Router is good to prevent from being hacked internally or externally. It is a firewall, not an active preventer of damaging software. The best security is rollback software like the Rollback RX, you need NO security whatsoever except for that software but if you plan on saving things to your hard drive, then you have to disable it. It is a VERY strong piece of software, too strong for most. If you don't use multi-partitions, you can always use Acronis TrueImage to do low priority partition backups of your master system so if u cant boot or your drive fails, as long as the hidden recovery partition is error free or on another hard drive, it will recover your entire master system in minutes.

if u do that, then you won't even have to remove your spare, heck, you probably won't even have to remove that top cover that they give you back there.

they are limited in space. I was able to get 3 amps, 2 d3100s, 1 d5100, 2 solenoids, 3 fuse blocks, 2 12s in a 4cuft box and BARELY have any room left without removing the backseat. The spare tire is definitely gone, hehe. I'm thinking i might have done better doin 4 10s but i would have need around 8kwrms and dont feel like spendin that kind of money right now.

Even if one's sub's sensitivity is higher than the other, you do now know at what frequency it peaked at to achieve that sensitivity... For example- If the Q had 86db and the ICON had 84db... If the Q peaked at 45hz to achieve 86db but the ICON did it's 84db at 31hz whereas the Q may had only done 82db at 31hz, then the ICON would be louder for low end music. I'm not takin sides on which sub is louder, just stating that sensitivity cannot be used to compare subs potential output that easily.

What i am referring to is when i was researching OCing and doin it myself, i came across a LOT of threads about comparing 2x2gb sticks vs 4x1gb sticks and which is better. The main point people were bringing up is you do not want to fill all 4 slots if you plan to do major OCing because the DRAM voltage will have a larger drop using all 4 slots then just 2 but i believe it's more than that though, cant remember because i wouldnt do it anyway. The bad thing about this is if u have to set the voltage too high to keep stable because of large voltage drop, too high a voltage on idle will crash the pc as well, hence the brick wall.

That computer you had constantly getting infected, sounds to me liek they didnt install the right software to prevent that from happening. Whereas there is no "End All" protection out there.... based on how one uses a computer, software can be installed to appear that there really is an "End All" solution! ESET's Internet Security along with Spybot(freeware) as a backup solution prevents anything nasty from happening that has this combo. Only under rare scenarios where people constantly go to porn and illegal download sites do they need a special software called Rollback RX which prevents virii and any form of x-ware from staying on the pc after a shutdown or restart. This is the same type of software used in colleges, libraries, etc... When you say a TON of security on the pc, you dont need multi software packages as they will all just conflict with each other. A full internet suite from ESET(it checks for updates every 30minutes!) A backup x-ware checker - Spybot A Full system Protector - Rollback RX

i cant say off hand but u can buy em like that. I havent checked but i think kicker and knukonceptz has some like that.

what doesnt play on mpc? If something doesnt play, then you dont have the right codec or filter. I'm beginning to learn how to transcode 720p and 1080p video now so this should be fun.

Check and see what your alternator is rated at. If it is around 90-100A, then you should be fine. You may have slight dimming but shouldnt be anything of concern. If you get real low light dimming, i would get a DMM and monitor the voltage going into the amp at it's power\ground terminal. If it is dropping below 12.0v, then you can ask how to fix that later,

when i state temps, i state them for when i am encoding video. If running Prime95, the highest temp core reaches 1C higher. So, if i can encode video at quad 3.45 @60C as it's max rise, then i Prime95, it will get it as high as 61C. Average temp on hottest core while encoding video is about 54C with a spike to 60C. During gameplay, it's in the high 40s to low 50s all the time. My idle temps on Cores 2,3 and 4 are all under 40C and Core 1 hovers around 42C. I also have C1E enabled so i can keep the heat and power draw to a minimum since i dont encode video 24\7. I leave the PC on 24\7 is the main reason why i have this setting turned on. Yea man, go ahead and try to break 3.5 or just hit 3.5 and keep it stable for a whole day! when i was at 3.5, i couldnt keep it stable during benchmarks and quick testing for more than 1-2 hrs at the most. I'm curious what ur settings would be if u can get it stable that high. I had thought about lowering the multiplier and raising the FSB but that would cause more stress to the board rather than the cpu and i had a LOT more stability problems doin that anyway. My current FSB is - 1840MHz My current DRAM is - 1104MHz certified OC for 1066, voltage is currently set at 2.1v

16GB? What are you doin over there? playin 15 games at once? lol That sounds like a nice system, except if u really do plan on doin some pretty major OC'ing, a lot of times using all 4 memory slots can cause problems when trying to OC the voltage to the memory but isn't like it's 100% impossible, that brick wall will just come sooner than if u only had 1 pair.

Well, Instead of me adding to the arguments goin on here, lets see what happens to and in America over the next 3 years. Yes, i know about the 2012 topic as i posted this story several months back. After talking with a few friends about it as it is tied together from the Mayan Prophecy and Scientific evidence, this has NOTHING to do with who is president! What is going to happen in 2011-to the end of 2-12 with a visual shift into 2013 is incapable of being controlled by one man or one country or one planet. So, america needs economic change, let's see if he knows how to do it like he says he does. It can't be worse than it is now. Only thing i'm curious is, how much will he get america out of debt in the first 4 yrs? that's what i'm wanting to see. how many trillions of dollars closer can be get to before we actually have a surplus again.

I knew who was gonna win after all 3 debates and the polls are still far from over.

one of you guys gotta check out quad cores, they run a lot hotter apparently than dual cores, hence more cores. I'm resting at 3.45 per at the moment. Funny thing is when i went to 3.5 i had problems. Maybe when i'm bored i'll tinker with it some more but last time i tried 3.5, my peak temp was 65C and that's ridiculous because at 3.45, it's only 60C right now. I havent read it in a while but the guy who created RealTemp got real in depth with it. I know what u are referring to, Intel hasn't released the TJMax spec for 45NM chips and if i remember right, they may not ever...

yea, u'r right there. I've installed both systems before and i'e actually, just as you say, destroyed 1 AMD XP chip a few yrs ago because the heatsink was trying to be latched onto the socket and the next 2 thigns i hear are back to back crunch sounds... I took the heatsink off to find the corner of the core broke off! That was the first time it ever happened to me as i've installed several AMD chips before that and never had a problem. Of course the easiest would be my celeron d chip, it's pinless. Just drop it in and done.