shizzzon

that's not 70w. You have no idea what the output current is. Anyway, why don't you measure the DC voltage coming in rather than the output... The output has nothing to do with your protection issue if all you have is a DMM. Secondly, what is the DCR value at the speaker leads?

I would have recommended more but in my experience, if they do not make an alt for your vehicle, they can probably tell you who can. They were the only legitimate business that makes an alt for my car. Powermaster is limited on the vehicles that they do. They are the ones who actually referred me to them. Ohio Generator is a big company but if Mechman doesn't do it, i'm sure they won't either. OG told me straight up that they did not know how to build an alt for my car but i found someone who did, Mechman. HO Alternator is another big company. Then you have others that aren't as big - Excessive Amperage Mr Alternator Mean Green Mechman does deal with imports a lot so out of the country requirements are a plus for you.

www.mechman.com

That's interesting to know.

wow, i feel like a genius, can i be moderator? hehe

I'm surprised nobody caught this but he said they hooked this amp up at 1ohm and it sounded the same as a kicker 1500... Kicker 1500 is only stable to 2ohm so he had to have it wired at 4ohm which is rated for practically the same power so he actually conned himself if that's true, lol. And besides, you do not know what the impedance curve is in this design he is testing. You can go out and get a 10,000w amp and in some cases, it may only put out 2,000w if the resistance is high enough. The only way to see true power is with meters, not by ear.

This is why i started the thread with a specific model and other replies i've done with specific models as well. This is true, many brands carry crap, ok, decent and great lines. Many of us are used to that. I know that the sundown amps are all basically on the same level of great without questioning but for the models out there that need questioning... that's what this thread is about.

they are all AGM. the 3 in the rear are all XS power batts. The bat up front is factory agm battery. ALL 4 batts float at 13.0 with car off. There is a solenoid in the rear which isolates the front batt from the rear.

well, i know i'm outputting more current than you are alternator-wise... Even though i cant prove the smell came from the batt, i do know that the terminals were scorching hot and that leads me to believe probable cause of excessive current. They told me that even if the batt is 100% charged, it can still be overcharged. I thought overcharged was just too high of voltage but they're telling me it can\is overcharg(ed\ing) from excessive current as well. I really need to find out for sure if thats what is goin on but all the shops are closed til monday. I gotta be bassless for a couple days to prevent possible battery failure.

You guys are idiots... why would you post this? hehe, Yea this place is great.

Here is the layout- 258A alt regulated at 14.95v wired directly to factory starting battery. Wire comes off of the starting battery and goes to the rear through solenoid then to 3 batts in the rear. When the stereo system is ran at full tilt for about 2 minutes straight, at one time recently i got a rotten egg smell that came from inside the engine bay but only under high amperage demands. Local Auto Zone fears that since the alt is ran to the starting battery first before it reaches the rear batts and amps is that it may be overcharging the starting battery. We felt the terminals onthe starting batery and they were scorching hot. So... for those who have setup high powered electrical systems before.... Is it ok if i run 1 cable from the alt to the starting battery then another cable off the same point from the alt to the rear battery bank? If the amps pull excessive current, the alt should disperse that current only through the wire that is running to the rear right? Does that sound like what i have to do?

i take it they never caught who did it? I'd be leary if they haven't been caught.

for even better expectations, build the box on the small side. Typically, a smaller box will have a higher rise. As long as your calculations are right about it being final at 1.34ohms on a 2 ohm stable amp, i wouldnt see a problem. Thing is, if it does like to dip around 2.1 or so and stay there for long term bass output, like constant bass, it can possibly end up stressin the amp too much if you know what i mean, too close to it's limit. You should be able to tell though if the amp ever starts to get extremely hot.

Looking at another one- Autotek SS1900.1D 1000w @ 4ohm 1500w @ 2ohm 1900w @ 1ohm Price - Under $400 JBL GTO14001 1200w @ 4ohm 1500w @ 2ohm Price - under $400

I dont think so. I believe you are seeing the power and ground connections. Those terminals that are on the alt appear to be welding cable style terminals if that's suppose to be 1/0. If it is dual output.. then there is no ground connection anywhere else on the alt... So, i seriously doubt it.

4 ohm stability on a 2 ohm load is WAY different than 1.34 DCR on 2 ohm stability. There is a good chance that you will be fine, like almost 100%. Most 2ohm coils are 1.4\1.5 ohms.

I am doin some searchin and plan on posting a lot of amps on here with peoples feedback to them and hee is the first to start- Bazooka MGA11500H This amp has been specifically optimized to produce it's most power @2ohms but still be 1ohm stable! What is so good about this is when your impedance curve rises over areas that you wish were louder, this amp will pretty much make that happen. For example - wire a sub to 1 ohm, put it on a 1ohm amp, it will not hit the 1 ohm mark on the amp but on average may hover around 2 ohms. This isn't exact science obviously but you get the picture. So, the specs for this amp- 810w @4ohms 1,550w @2ohms 1,222w @1ohm Comes with advanced protection circuitry to alert users of potential dangers before they happen, strappable, comes with plenty of tuning capabilities and comes with the capability of being water-cooled. Recommended to use 200A fuse per amp. Price - under $200 shipped, Retail - $500 Now... tell me, this sounds too good to be true for the price but what do you guys think? It says it's class H but i have no idea how that compares to D. I'm assumig it's less efficient if it requires a 200A fuse for a 1,550w amp.

UPDATE- Got the car in the shop and will be picking it back up tomorrow. In the meantime, i looked at the box that it came in and realized that a lot of paperwork came with the alternator that i looked over. So, when purchasing an alternator from MechMan, here is what to expect- It comes with your invoice stating their location, phone number, fax number and a copy of your order and invoice number. The next paper- This is a MUST for anyone. When you buy an alternator from Mechman, they give you a rundown of all the Do's and Don'ts on how to operate your alternator. It is VERY informative and if followed will keep your alt and car in top running performance. The next paper- Test results- This paper shows the tests that the alternator went through with results to show you exactly what your alternator is capable of doing in your vehicle. Below is 2 RPM readings that you wil see that each test was taken. The test paper shows the actual alternator rpm but to prevent you from doin the math, i already did it for you so u can just read this and drool, hehe. All of the following rpm numbers have been converted for Engine speed. There are 2 engine speed rpms given. The 1st engine speed is using a 3:1 pulley ratio. The 2nd is using a 3.5:1 pully ratio. If you do not know what yours is, just go by the 3:1 as that is pretty standard for a large array of vehicles. 533\457 - 36.2A 600\514 - 69.0A 667\571 - 100.7A 833\714 - 154.4A 1000\857- 185.9A 1333\1143-219.2A 1667\1429-240.8A 2000\1714-254.0A 2333\2000-257.9A 2667\2286-256.6A Alternator rated at 250A Maximum Current - 257.9A Maximum Watts - 3,159w Turn on Speed - 272 RPM Zero Output Speed - 431 RPM Voltage Set Point - 14.957v Voltage Set Point at Double Load - 14.869v Voltage Set Point at Maximum Speed - 15.012v Voltage Set Point After Load Test - 14.737v Requested Load Test Voltage - 13.400v Actual Load Test Voltage - 12.252v Stator Voltage at Load Voltage - 0.132v Field Current - 0.007A Leakage Current - 0.36mA (0.00036A) Leakage Current After Load Test - 0.32mA (0.00032A) Ripple Current at 2500 RPM - 58A Lamp Voltage at Stop Condition - 2.764v Lamp Voltage During Test - 13.799v Pulley Ratio - 1.514 Rectifier Voltage Drop - 2.8v Here are some pics of the alternator - This is a picture of my current STOCK ALTERNATOR. I will have pics of the new one installed when i get it back tomorrow.

I am trying to help a member here on SSA with his home theater sub project. He is currently using a Fi 12" SSD in 1 cube sealed with polyfill running off of a 1400w Behringer amp. He is changing his setup to a Mach5 18" running off the same amp but ported tuned to around 18hz. His amp only has a 30hz or 50hz roll off choice. I have searched and searched for crossovers that have a subsonic filter on them that can be tuned to roll off around 15-20hz. I'm trying to find one for under $150, $80-$120 is more ideal. I have came across Harrison Labs 20hz FMOD adapters. This is currently the only thing i have found. Is it ok or worth using? IT's just for movies and the occasional song from what i understand.

ya, i can say it was TL all day long but we aint goin there with that debate again... I've been patiently waiting for over a year, lol, to do a comparison with this mic vs the TL... until then, i dont know what to say.

You want to know what it does or what they say? They say it does around 150A at idle but i could have swore that it was rated to do around 112A at idle. Disregard the numbers though, i'll find out for sure when i clamp it after installation. Oh, and full tilt meaning it's maximum output which should be 1700-2000 RPM engine.

yea, the same thing pretty much happened to me when i got a refurb-ed 100.4 from db-r. All i was doin was unscrewing the speaker terminal screws and putting them in place. I already had the power and ground connected. At some point while unscrewing, the screwdriver touched the case and SPARKS!! I immediately pulled the screw driver away and called db-r and that's what he told me... So i wrapped up the screwdriver and held it as far away from the case as possible and it never sparked again. Works fine too.. actually too fine,

There is a review coming up soon for this so stay tuned. Ordered thursday, it was built, tested, shipped and received in only 3 business days from TN to KY. It will try to be installed by the end of the week or early next week. Pics and performance readings to come soon. This alt is definitely nice. Weighing in at what it looks like 16-17 lbs. I'll get a better reading next time. Rated to do 250A full tilt.

You thought my build log was over? You're wrong. Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha!!! lol I just got my Alt in from Mechman. I told them i would do a nice review of it so stay tuned for pics and performance readings from it. It is rated @ 250A. I ordered it Thursday over the phone. They build per order for my car. Was built, tested, shipped and received the following Tuesday. I highly rated performance tuning shop in my area is going to be installing it as they have first hand experience with my 07 Scion tC. I called 2 other stores and this is what they said about installing it for me- Store 1- No, we don't install other people's alts... My thoughts - apparently you are intimidated or not experienced enough to trust yourself. Store 2- An 07.. what? No.. I've never heard of your car... We can't do it, it's too new... My Thoughts- Quit your job... I'm gonna try to get it installed either this weekend or early next week. Pics by then for sure, hopefully sooner.

Yes, this is the best option i prefer too. This lets you play EVERYTHING. You have all the available codecs required to play videos\audio and lets you play quicktime and realmedia in mpc and since mpc is so basic, it's so fast loading and is easy to pull specs off of video files such as res ans fps when doing transcoding.