shizzzon

it looks like someone using a forklift lowered it down next to that box by accident and smashed corner and quickly raised it back up to prevent the corner of the box from permanently being smashed. Maybe it's just the facilities in your guys area. I work for a warehouse and out of the 3 yrs so far, we've only had 1 package come in that was busted but it was kinda hard to prevent. It was a 6ft long box full of fluorescent bulbs with little packaging... Other than that, all the ups\fedex\dhl delivery trucks that come to drop stuff off, they handle everything perfectly fine. Nothing has ever been damaged. Hell, even when i got all my lights and batts for my car. I was actually up in the ups truck with the guy gettin the batts off and everything in there was situated very neatly and locked in place, not physically locked but wouldnt fall or get slanged around.

it varies. Dual 1s are between 0.6-0.9 Dual 2s i have seen be 1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 1.9 Dual 4s i have seen 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 3.9, 4.0, 4.2 On dual 1s, i have really only seen them be 0.6, 0.7 and 0.9 if ALL 4 coils, 2 per sub, are all reading in between 0.6-0.9 then you are ok. Series each sub separately then parallel the connections. You should then get 0.7-0.8 ohms. If you do, then you are all set!

it did all that in a scion tc? well that just put a smile on my face because when my other amp gets here, i have 2 12" AQ HDC3s off of 2 AQ2200ds tuned to peak at 34hz. It already has some pretty crazy lows off of just 1 AQ2200d at 2ohms, i'll post a vid of a hair trick. Just gotta give me 5 yrs, i gotta let my hair grow out,

can it be applied on curved glass? is it just like regular tint and can it be applied onto existing tint or does it need to be put on the glass?

I have an amp mounted in a way to where it is 100% in direct sunlight and there literally is no other place i can mount the amp due to space issues. It is about 2" away from the hatchback glass. The back hatch is layered in a sheet of tint and then another layer of blue tint for a graphical image then a clear coat sheet is layed over that. Is it ok, practical, doable, only way u may know of to take a sheet of heatwave or the Pro and stick it onto the tint to prevent the amp from getting excessively hot? I turned the car on today and the amp was in protect. I check everything, voltage is at 13.3v, impedance is right where it is suppose to be but i noticed the amp was in protect. When i touched the amp with my hand, the heatsink was extremely hot, not burning your hand instantly hot but like metal cooking in the sun hot. I'm assuming that is why it went into protect. while i had the hatch door open, all the heat inside was venting out as well. I turned the car off then back on and blasted the AC with all doors shut and the amp never went into protect again so no wires were moved or anything so it had to be a heat issue. Placing the Heat wave on the tinted glass is the only thing i can think of but is there anything bad about that? Will it be able to stick vertically like that and onto tint?

DJ suggests NOT to be using box building software for their subs. Software is highly inaccurate for their product line. It shows that for the original HD3s that you needed a 9 cuft ported box for just 1 15, that was way wrong.

i suggest you purchase a setup that you would use in your next ride and install what will fit in your current ride. You will know if it's too much current draw in the car. Do a quick test at night- Start turnin the volume up while you are sitting there at idle. Once you start dimming, remember that level. Now start driving on a straight road for a while keeping ur rpms at least 2k the entire time. turn it to that volume that u maxed at idle then start turning it up again until you start dimming again. Now you know how much power you can pull at idle and while driving. Do not exceed those volume levels. If you do, don't do it all the time for 10-20 minutes at a time. IF you are super paranoid, every time u get out of the car, check the voltage on the batt. IF it's above 12.4, you're fine. If not, drive it around without bumpin for a while and recheck. If u can't never get it above 12.4, u might wanna buy that new car sooner, hehe

hehe, if u wont have the car much longer, then get what i posted and wire the sub in series until you get a new ride. Or if u go crazy, wire it to 1 ohm. IT's best to buy something that you will keep for a long time rather than just somethin to get u by then have to buy somethin else just because you changed vehicles.

what size alt u have or what vehicle u drive so i can find out

well, i can't wait to hear your opinions on the sub since i have yet to go the SQ way yet. Wanna see what an sq guy thinks about em. I own their 12s and 15s. I know when you slightly underpower them that they sound so good. I am about to try to give them some crazy daily power soon so we'll see if they still hold their sound. I don't care if they do but i do just a little, that's why i got the Copper coils.

Audioque HDC315 Dual 2 ohm Copper coil. Audioque AQ1200D 1,470w @1ohm. Under $600 shipped. Put that 15 in 4.5-6 cubes ported for better efficiency. It will destroy your car.

you're right, u ever use AQ before?

Hehe, 8awg is pretty serious there! 12awg should be plenty unless you plan on goin over 3kw. I might suggest if you are trying to get every little watt out of the amp to up it to 10awg but if not competing, you wouldnt audibly hear a difference. Now, if you are running at 0.5 ohms or lower, i would also suggest using a larger wire as the current will probably be greater than normal.

it doesn't have to be that large unless you don't have a lot of power to give it... Recommended 1-1.5.

well, i had a reason for assuming so. Low post count goes toward newbies... Well anyways, back onto the topic- 4 of those 8s would work very well in 4 cubes. I see where you are going with it, nice idea but i'd been there too. I was thinkin about doin 6-8 8s before i went with 2 AQ 12s. In your situation, i think 4 8s may have around the same surface area as 2 10s... somewhere close. Although, the 2 10s have a LOT more excursion capabilities than the 8s will. Plus, i'm sure the AQs are cheaper than all 4 8s too, right?

i cant believe you are comparing AB to AQ. You should be banned, lol Honestly, the 4 ABs would work well with that power but u will kick yourself in the ass later in life if you only knew how crazy loud AQs can get. The power ratings that AB gives their speakers are PEAK amplifier rated power, trust me. I've done some thermal tests on their eternal series before, couldnt even take 334w of actual power for a straight minute without thermal failure. They're rated for 900wrms.... yea right. IF you damage those subs... you gotta buy new ones. If you buy AQs, you get to keep em forever and get em reconed when damaged... not just a replacement but can be reconed to different sizes. i bought 2 AQ HD3 15s few yrs ago, i still got em. They still work, they never had a problem, i've never had a problem, they're crazy loud and now i have 2 of their 12s. I will probably never get rid of these either unless someone buys them off of me for more than they are sold for, hehe.

that's just crazy knowing that there is something even more powerful waiting if the current Z couldnt keep up with competitors.

don't forget Mechman

can someone explain how steve meade's 300A iraggi alts measured around 330A of output per alt? Back when he had just 2 300A alts from Iraggi on his Tahoe, they were measured of outputting around 670A of alt output.

u know i am curious... This sub costs so much money... so one would think that this might be the end all sub for just straight brutal spl... Well, why does it only have a 3" coil? A 4"coil would be able to receive a LOT more current. It can't be that a 4" makes it so inefficient that a 3" coil has better potential for higher numbers just because it may be more efficient can it?

if u for some reason do not trust other's test tones, make your own. I don't know if there is any free software out there to, well WinISD can but some "fun" software i use is called Goldwave. You can do a LOT with audio in that program. That and Ahead Nero's package comes with a sound editor too. I don't know if it is a generator but it's a nice editor.

do u have dimming now? Sit there at idle and jam and see if your lights dim. If they do, rev the tach up to 2,000 rpm or if you do not have a tach, just rev it up and keep it there, kinda loud but nothing too severely loud. Play a constant test tone for about 10 seconds when keeping it revved up. your lights may dim for a split second when the test tone tone comes in and should recover quickly. While the test tone is playing for about 10 sec, immediately pause it or stop and see if your lights get brighter. If they don't, then i don't think you need an upgrade.

how many channels and at what ohm load? Also, how do you want it, Class A/B or D?

what tools are u using to cut the wood, maybe i can help you get your cuts more perfect

i believe you would put them in a smaller box. Correct me if i'm wrong but if you had a 15 that was recommended to be put in 3-5cubes NET, putting it in 3 cubes would make it sound "tighter" as you would put it. I know the group delay decreases the smaller you go.