shizzzon

Well, that's good news for me, i can finish my work over here instead of wastin time starin at the monitor... I can wait, Got's my own install to start postin soon anyway.

MEADE IS HERE!!

Well, our psychic informant suggests he is taking a shower... As for me, i doubt it. If they were there when i got home, first thing i'd do besides goin in and chillin with fam is cut open and inspect everything.... then find my camera and drag my ass to the computer and upload all these pics to a hosting server like photobucket. With as many pics as people are waiting for, that's probably whats taking so long.

CrateS!?!?! Ok, then 18-21lbs

it's not that much for packaging. When i ordered my Audioque HD3s in the past, they were shipped and contained in the box by setting the sub down into a custom fitted styrofoam base. Styrofoam.... plus cardboard... plus invoice.... and a bag that the sub was wrapped in.... and dust, fingerprints..hehe I'd say 68-71 lbs U better like my answer or i'll come over their with a printed copy of this reply and tape it to your door, hehe we're both in Louisville damnit!

he has 4 min til he gets home... If they have been delivered already, pics will be taken and posted on the site, which ones i dont know but his official site is- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...20584&st=20 If the subs aren't there yet, then we are going to have to wait longer but today is supposedly the day. 75lbs per 18!

Doctor's office finally called. They STILL have not told me what is the results of the Ultrasound even thoguh i've been slowly getting worse, yea!!! %^%*&(#$^#$. Anyways, they got me scheduled to go in next wednesday for an Upper GI. There gonna stick a colonoscope down my throat.... nah, haha, but i am getting an endoscopy. So, hopefully they can find out what's wrong then if i dont feel worse afterwards.

don't have time to read all that link but you will only notice a difference if the driver was fresh when you got it then broken in at a later date. If it comes broken in then you should never notice a difference. All the things about how to break a sub in, all that is bullcrap. There is no need to baby a sub forever before wangin on it... If everything is set right, let it rip. The longer you baby a sub during a "break-in period", the longer it takes to break it in.

if u buy 2 of the same terminal, some terminals are marked + and - instead of just being universal. You should know which is which without markings since the batteries themselves(factory ones) are marked right on themselves.

All right, now you're makin it harder than what it really is- I'm gonna tell ya what all you "can" do, not necessary to do everything as the more u do, the stronger it gets. All thread runs from one side to the other side...ALWAYS. So, drill 2 holes at the same point on both sides of the box. When you slide the allthred through, put washers and nuts on both the inside and the outside on both walls... So 4 nuts and 4 washers. Use 3/4" allthread. When the allthread is about to be in position, run threadlock all over it and then run glue and then sealant on the outer edges that meet the wood. If u run 2 different directions of allthread, make sure they come together EXACTLY in the center of the box and use a 4way connector as this is the God Grip. Use L brackets every 12" on ALL adjacent pieces on the inside. For parts of the box where allthread is impossible, u have 2 options+ 1- use 2x4s on the outside 2- use some sort of metal countersinking nut with a base on it that does not go through to the other side so it keeps the allthread in there. Double baffle is good. Maybe double up on all sheets. For even more, take 2 sheets for all walls, in between each sheet, fill n pour with sand/saw dust/cement. Hold the sub in- Use hurricane nuts and run the bolts through that. Or run bolts backwards and threadlock em and finish off with nuts on outside. Bolt box from inside to frame of car. Use some sort of tape sealer around outside of sub. Paint the box. If I think of anything else worth mentioning... I'll post it

Someone should form Team NooB and see what happens. I want to get everything but the alt done withing the next 16 days! I'll attenuate the preout signal until I drive down to TN to get my alt installed.

dont view me as a noob, Christ, hehe, yes, a 300a alt @2k, 140a @ 750

From those who have experience with these batteries- I need a total of about 4000 worth of their model numbers... For instance 2 hc2000s or 3 hc1400s, get me? Ok, i got a small area to put batts in, i had emailed them asking if i'd be all right if i ran 6-7 HC600s in the back... They told me no, it wouldnt last that long before they were completely discharged. They said the HC600\800 are like large caps, not long-term batteries due to their short reserve time(too bad they dont post reserve time on their site!!!) So, i called them up just now and got ahold of someone on the phone who sounds like he has less experience with them than i do... so i come here. For daily driving only, i know 3 HC1400s is good enough but the email suggested that i install 1 HC2400 and 3 HC600s as the HC600s will discharge quicker giving the amps a stronger impact on the subs... The HC2400 is their widest 12v batt and i dont have room for it. Am i really gonna me missin out on some quick hard wangin by runnin 3 hc1400s compared to if i had their caps batts?

you would think so.... why would they still have it up there? The only thing i have noticed is telling the program what size width your port is. I think the port width is external which is 100% retarded if that's true. It looks like it is from the picture... Type in 0.75" as port width, it looks like the wood walls join completely, that's what i am talkin about.

i havent gotten the time to test their calculator yet but because that calculator is ONLY for L shaped slot ports, standard port length calculators, including ones in software will actually be wrong unless they have a specific selection for L port calculation. In a slot port, part of the physical length requirement is actually acoustical length because slot port shares a wall which makes the acoustical length longer and the physical length shorter. This is why people may say their calculator may say use a port length shorter than expected. Don't quote me 100% as that's what it's doing because i havent got time to compare it yet.

Your first post has got to be the sh*ttiest post i have ever seen!

oooo daddy came in here and told u turn that Down! hehe. I'd run an XXV Maxximus on 2 of them. Haha, i hope you don't do that. 1,500w amp will do fine.

That's what they're called. Maybe it's some companies way of warning people before buying it.... Warning- draws High current.... terrible efficiency... look at our other lines...... cheap ass <cough...cough> hehe

that's why high efficiency is a good thing, especially if we are talkin about goin over 2kw of power. If you wanted to up to 10,000w of power, for example, but are trying to save money, High Current amps may be cheaper than the class d alternative. So let's say you bought 5 2,400w HC amps for $299 per amp. Well, let's say 5 2,500w class d amps were $500 per amp. $1,500 vs $2,500.. you'd go with $1,500 to save money. Let's say the HC amps are only 65% efficient whereas the Class d amps are 80% efficient. Now, let's say either setup, you have 4 200a alts in there and 5 HC2400s in the rear. 5 HC2400s is good for 12,000w of power. 5 2,500w amps is 12,500w and 5 2,400w amps is 12,000w so we are right on so far. Now, this is where things start to change- Let's say that the fuse ratings for the 2,400w and 2,500w amp are the same at 250A. 250 x 5 = 1,250 \ 2 = 625A which is considered average draw for music. So now we focus on efficiency at 625A of draw- Class d amp= 80% efficient - to draw 625A @ 13.0v 13v x 625A = 8,125w of power draw. @ 80% efficiency, it will output - 6,500w of power! High Current amp= 65% efficient 0 to draw 625A @ 13.0v 13v x 625A = 8,125w of power draw. @ 65% efficiency, it will output - 5,281w So... how much more power is needed for the HC amps to output the same power as the class d amp?- Another 1,219w How many more amps? It would need to PULL 769.2A to output 6,500w which equals a need to pull an ADDITIONAL 144.2A of current. So, what do you need to do electrical system wise for that? Kinetik's battery names are done like taking averages of amp draw by 50% of their max rating. If you have 200A fuse, take half of that, 100A and that should be your battery's aH rating or summed aH rating. 5 HC2400s have an aH rating of 630A, this example was for 625, close huh But because you tried to save money using HC amps due to low efficiency, now it looks like you have a 20,000w setup rather than a 12,000w setup! Remember, the 6,500w output from class d amp is HALF of the maximum installed wattage potential, (going by fuse ratings). So, if the HC's draw an additional 144.2A, you would need ANOTHER HC2400 AND about 1-2 more 200a alts equaling 5-6 alternators! How much money did you save when you bought the amps? $1,000. How much money must you drop into the vehicle now for getting the electrical supported? $330 for the battery. $550 for 2 more alts + custom brackets......again($100) Another large ass amount of wire $80 Total so far- $1060 Plus you gotta remember- the lower the voltage goes from here, the more current it will draw over the class d amp anyway so power requirements might actually be more than this under heavier loads! See the pain involved? Adding extra battery, takes up room, weight, re run more wiring, gotta get another alt.... do u got room for another one, will one very large even fit? Efficiency is a must. Sometimes i wish my car was completely 48v. They were suppose to start doin that soon but havent heard anything about it in years. The reason i wish is the higher the voltage, the smaller guage of wire you can use and the smaller the batts can be. Large this and extra battery that is all blamed on high current draw, nothing else.

contact Kinetik to be sure but i thought you couldnt charge theirs higher than 14.4? The less voltage one can handle max means one of 2 things- 1- it's float voltage is lower than a typical agm battery or 2- it's internal resistance is lower than other batteries.

Damn, I thought that was to scale, hehe

oh i can probably do it anytime, i just cant eat anything before leaving just to be safe. Been waiting almost 3 full weeks for ultrasound results. Called twice, doctor has never returned my call. I'm in a stage right now where i am on a thin line of being able to control the pain. If it really starts affecting me bad, real bad again like it has in the recent past or some new bad symptom occurs, i'm goin half-psycho at the doctor's office, i'm not playin. I will go right in there and go off. The medicine they give me doesnt work, 2 different prescriptions so far, the results aren't in, i could be gettin worse, sometimes i feel like i definitely am and no one returns my calls. That's a good reason isn't it?

haha, you sound like one of my friends replyin like that, haha. whatever amp you choose, make sure that it's the most efficient amp you can get. I'm assuming you're not gonna be install any batts or upgradin your alt so just lettin you know. I would suggest gettin the sundown 1500d also, i know that things efficient.

haha, you wont be able to flex it, but pressure inside the box can. i got a vid on youtube of this one sub i had bolted down to my trunk floor everywhere. You couldnt move that box for nothing... but when the lows dropped, the box was trying to pull the trunk floor up with it shuttering like crazy. The rod is called all-thread and you would want 3\4". I would run L brackets on the corners that need it, space every 12-16" All thread from one side to the other, nuts on inside and outside, washers too. 2x4s on inside or outside depending on where u got room at if necessary.

nothing ever happened really. If you would have asked me that week, i would have said no because of how i felt. The pain comes and goes so you just have to ask and i'll do it, dying or not, hehe. Oh, and i was told the exact same thing about the foam thing..... Only problem is, i dont think i'm putting the side panel back on to get more box room and if i dont put that panel on, there is no where for foam to "fill". It would be a forever gap!