shizzzon

well, one thing i hate is sub vids with distortion so loud that it makes you just stop the vid because the sound is so annoying. I am referring to external mics being used for the vid cam.

I've owned a couple of vid cams within the past few yrs all in the $700 range. I need to buy another one somewhat soon so when i install my new setup i can get vids up. One thing that has got me wondering is- is there anyway of finding a camcorder or external mic suitable for recording car audio vids? When looking at mic specs, i know one requirement is to be able to record the frequencies that will be playing but is there any input on choosing a mic that will not sound distorted because of the pressure inside?

he has the room. he has over 8 cubes gross internal using double baffle. You should be able to tune down to 30-33hz easily with that space available.

u r right.

Welcome!! PS- have you gone to the new White Castle in that area since it's new out there? I help keep that place runnin. Just wonderin if you ever go there...

i'm gonna see if i can learn something here. This new build i plan on doing, which is the largest i've done so far for me is approx. the following- 42" wide, 13" high, 18" deep. This is a close example. Let's say i run 3 10s in this box for example. What i would do is double baffle the top since subs would face up for this example. Pre-drill, countersink all drywall screws (1.5" - 2" long), Titebond II or III all wood pieces. Liquid nails all internal adjacent corners and finish it off with a sealer. Use L brackets all around the inside of the box, sealant inside all screw holes and countersink screws holding all L brackets inside box. use 3\4" all-thread spanning the width of the box and the depth of the box. Thinking about using some sort of anchor on the inside box floor for all-thread running vertically. Secure all all-thread runs with large washers inside and outside of the box and, of course, use nuts on both inside and outside of box. While running all-thread, allow the all-thread to join horizontally and vertically using "4-way connectors" as i've heard joining bracing to a central spot makes bracing a LOT stronger. When mounting subs on baffle, use some sort of sealer around the subs that PartsExpress sells. I'm assuming it works since i've seen it before and has good reviews. When mounting subs on baffle(using 2 3\4" thick sheets of MDF), use 3" bolts inverted(thread sticking out of baffle) with thread-locking glue on the bolts them self. Place the subs through all bolts. Secure them with nuts ..... or use hurricane nuts inside the box and run bolts in them. this box i'm gonna be building is going to be built with a 5,000w amp next to it. So... if there is any extra necessity for me to make this box stronger, if what i am doing above is not enough, then let me know.

in terms of power? DD, the DD Z to be more specific

if you have 75,000 group 8d batts, it's not gonna matter. you will be hitting below 1ohm after rise a lot by doing that and do not expect your amp to last too long for music. Keeping the voltage up is just to prevent it from going into protect immediately. What's going to protect the components from over-stressing themselves when distributing power in a manner that the amp was not meant to do? Let alone when the Orion first came out, it was around the hype age of the 2500w era in car audio. A lot of companies were bringing amps out around that range. I remember tons and tons of stories of Orions getting damaged. I still hear of current incidents of them still. I had bought the Cadence instead which was like 1,000w overrated but over 90% efficient tested. I don't suggest anyone run an amp lower than rated regardless of electrical system. why overwork something on a daily basis when you can just get a recone to fit the amp at hand... if your sub company does that...

i dont think it's solely the power wire. Get a DMM and check the voltage at the amp. The ground sounds like it needs attention. Because you say it comes back on but very dim, if the power wire were too small, turning it down just a little would fix the problem. It's assumed you've tried that when you first noticed it and it didn't "fix itself" so again, check the ground.

good budget amps, all brand new, not expecting to suggest you to buy refurbs or used. Lanzar's Opti line PA's 3000w Crunch's GP3000d-PRO AQ's 2200w

ok, i can't find that statement so let me switch over to reality that i can prove- Steve Meade has his tuned to 30hz and he has 4 18" BTLs, ask him what he thinks of the low end... And here is a quote from tejcurrent from his install of 4 18" BTLs tuned to 36hz - I like the sound of this box much better than the previous two- I listen to a lot of rock/metal and they seem to get the faster kickdrums much better- but it still retains the low end very well. Every person who's heard the system near me has said 'that's the loudest thing I've heard', or 'you're the loudest vehicle in conway/myrtle beach

i could have swore i read that somewhere, let me try n find it but i could have swore... hold on hehe, every time i try and type read, i type rear.

can or do you want to extend your ports out of the box partially so they go up into the rear deck physically? If you do, how far away is the top of that box from the rear deck?

I thought the BTL was dubbed the "low end monster"?

haha, if he hears voices with his test tone cd he has... he's gettin some MAJOR noise issues. IS the Sundown amp the only thing in line with that power wire? I'm curious as to why you are using a 250A fuse for... That's WAY to high if that's the only amp and will not protect as much if that's true. Also, don't turn your subsonic filter all the way down either and leave it there when you are ready to play music. Turn your subsonic all the way counter clockwise(to the left) and the LPF as well. Now for subsonic filter- turn it to the right 1\3 of the way. Turn it not quite directly in the middle but more than 1\4 of a turn. LPF - turn it no higher than 1\4 of a turn to the right. Keep it right in the middle of all the way to the left and directly straight up. This should set your subsonic in the high 20s and your LPF right around 100hz. Shouldnt need to be that high but just lettin you know. Keep all bass boosts on stereo and amp at 0. You shouldnt even be using a DMM to set your amp up anyway. You can't "set gains" to any wattage since wattage output varies per frequency. Trust me, if you think(which you aren't) you are at 1ohm trying to get 1200w, voltage would have to be 34.5v. If you rear 34.5v, that's not going to be 1200w. It'll be somewhere around 400w maybe if you're lucky. If you do not have an o-scope, go back to the shop and see if they do and have them set it up for you. Too much guess work leads to problems, i've been there too many times in the past.

if you want all 3 ranges to be "awesome" then you must go sealed. Going sealed, though, will have lower output compared to a ported box in a more narrow range but the sealed box might have a higher overall average output... but it shouldn't. If you set your crossover on your amp soon enough, like around 60-70hz, ported should still be the way to go to get really deep low loud bass. Tune the box to around 32hz. If you have experience with ported in the past and know what this tuning sounds like and want the low lows, tune at 29-30hz. By tuning that low will typically cause the higher frequency range for the sub to be audibly lower in output. So will 32hz but the lower you tune, the lower the frequency will be at the point of roll off above tuning.

1. How old are you? 25 2. When did you get into car audio? 17 3. How did you first get into car audio? The whole city was wangin so i grew up to it 4. Whats your favorite color ? Metallic blue 5. Male or female? Male 6. Your first Car? 1982 Oldsmobile Omega 8. How did you find out about this site? From Fi 9. What was your first system? 2 10" Sanyos(home subs) in a bandpass and 2 4x10s 11. Were do you live? Kentucky 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand? Alpine 15. Who is our hero in the car audio industry? No one, i like others designs but have seen it all 16. Whats your dream system? Matterhorn 17. Whats your dream car? Don't have one. 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in? my Scion tC 122mph 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products? eCommerce 20. What is your job? Warehouse distributor\shipper\driver 21. Whats your favorite saying? Herbert(family guy)-Go on, Stick it in there! But don't tell nobody... or you'll get in Trouble! 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars? None 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's? Better 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased? 160sq ft of Second Skin, 100sq ft of Fatmat Extreme, spl meter 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? i dont know. 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment? never used the TL 33. SQ or SPL? why? LSQ, spl is retarded for daily, sq is too technically involved for my tastes.

ok... do it

MOVE your amps grounding location and no, don't ground directly to battery or you would have changed nothing.

i'd really check your ground and even change it's location. Sounds like either a very bad ground or ground loop feeding through.

Knukonceptz has pretty much everything u need. If they don't, try Stinger or Tsunami. Tsunami does sell entry to higher end stuff so watch what you buy from them.

Well, i would assume ~$85 + $45 = ~ $130 + the cost it costs you to ship it to them. Because of shipping costs, shipping alone round trip is more than the recone!

looks like your box is "coming" along quite well.

Ah, well that's good then. So even for someone to be on the safe side, getting bp is only an advantage.

I was wondering if the BP option changes anything on the T/S parameters of any woofer it gets done to? Does it lower efficiency? And if it does, what is the point? Does a subs BL drop by having the BP option?