shizzzon

that's at 1ohm though.

might have to invest on going with custom door panels, multiple midbass drivers in each door. I'm actually lookin into this as well... Don't know if i'll do it but came across a guy that will fiberglass both of my doors for around $350 total. Sounds cheap but he says he has lot's of experience with my car so gotta make a phone call.

basically, yea. I tell this story a lot but their was a competitor over on DbDrag who used AQs HD3 12s, 2 12s off of 2 Hifonic Colossus amps! He actually went out their to do a test for me before i was convinced to buy 1... then another one but his results came back- just a hair over 2,200w actual power. This was his daily driver by the way. It blew me away on how he was able to get away with that setup but he had no problems. thats why i say i did that test with max clipping around 1100w and the sub(AQ), never got warm or any other type of stress. That 1000wrms rating is a joke if u ask me. I never ran any more power than that because i didn't have any more amp power available. but all in all, they dont have to expect everyone to use recommended enclosure. Rating is a thermal rating, not mechanical.

i wont doubt your burping claims. I'm solely complaining about their rating strategy. They said 2kw rms, that means it should take that daily. 1100wrms with a helluva lot of clipping didnt let it last. Meaning... it doesnt have enough cooling properties, glue isn't strong enough.. something there didn't meet what i hoped for. And to compare retail to retail- the immortals retailed for $499 The AQs at the time were $409 shipped. Now look, the AQs are under $300 and still wangin. The new immortals are comp only now with their high Fs and they expect users to take AB's advice and go, Oh!, the Eternals are like the immortals but can be used for daily... At HALF the rating of the immortal! That's how the original should have been rated, 1kw-1.2kwrms, not 2kw. But then again, the eternal is rated crazy high. I am willing to bet the AQ SD 2.5s can handle more power than the eternals can.

don't be shocked if your clean output power is a lot lower than expected.

you should be all set. Just remember when measuring output of amp, dont set ammeter to peak hold or you will not get accurate output readings.

the exact same one i got. I use that to setup my amps and for metering with my spl meter. that o-scope can read millivolts (.001volts) at 1\10th of a millivolt(.0001volts) with a resolution of 0.0002-0.0003 volts. i like it a lot for the purpose of what i use it for. You won't find out your actual power by this alone. You need this to setup your amps properly. You need this or a DMM AND an ammeter to find out your wattage output.

Yea but i dont think that is even made anymore and is impossible for me to find new.

thats the only amp i can find to fit that budget. Here is an example- I used to have a 1500w amp @1ohm. wired at 0.7 ohms(1 ohm nominal), my peak specs were- 31hz 4.3ohms 667w That's 6x the resistance. What if i only wanted a 600w amp?, i would have needed a 1500w amp to do that... Resistance is high right after tuning. Have you personally experienced a real 2000w at a peak note? so far, i've only experienced about 1,400w at a peak note off of that same visonik as a matter of fact, back when snoopdan first moved to my area of town. that 667w got me a 144.3db reading on AC mic. If you are trying to get a certain wattage rating after rise to match subs thermal handling, make sure the subs you are comparing are rated that way! Most subs are rated by amplifier power BEFORE rise, not after rise. If you are looking for subs rated AFTER rise, look into Audioque. I have personal experience with their equipment and know that's how they rate them. Oh... and DD as well since they are built by the same place.

i think u mean something before impedance rise, hehe If you wanted an amp to do 2500w after rise, depending on what load it currently sees, you would need an amp around 3,000-8,000w, so i know that's not what u want. For under $500... hmm, lets see- Visonik 4000xd 4,000w @2ohm - $429 http://cgi.ebay.com/New-4000-Watt-RMS-Viso...1QQcmdZViewItem I do not think this amp does a full 4kw so for clean power, it probably does in the high 2ks off of 13v or lower, my assumption.

2 Opti2000ds strapped can do ~3,200w@2ohms. $680 2 AQ2200ds strapped can do ~4,400w @2ohms, $780 For price to performance, this would be better then going with an amp that outputs it's best power @1ohm. Those options will give you plenty of headroom for the money.

the best score Jake got at 0.35 ohms is 2,245w. You say you had the clamp set to max hold, that's not a good way to do it. When both meters are hooked up(try and get em right next to each other), let it burp. While it's burping, wait for the DMM AND Ammeter to stop moving so much. When the numbers stay stationary, then record those numbers. This may take 2-3 full seconds.

If you want to find out what songs in your collection are best for your setup, go to www.yahoo.com , search for audacity and download it. This program can analyze a selected part of a song and show you exactly which frequency peaks the loudest!

i have never done testing in sealed enclosures but do they have lower overall impedance rise compared to ported?

It was just the right post too, hehe

trying to decide on 2 different setups and basically, if you like loud (40hz area) but also don't wanna lose that low rumble in the 29-32hz area, what setup would be ideal? all ran off of a 5,000w amp 3 12" Fi Qs(BP option mandatory) Sealed in 4 cubes. 3 10" AQ-HDC3s ported at 37hz. I know that the 10s are louder but i have never done a setup of this magnitude and am wanting to know really, for someone who may have done something this loud before, what is your opinion on this? I know the sealed setup, i can get my lows just fine, will not be as loud as the 10s but is it gonna be very noticeable? Basically, i can give you a scenario- If i set SSF to let's say to start rolling off at 34hz, you think with this much power that i'll still be able to pull out some major lows with songs such as Late Nite tip, lil jon songs, bass tracks down to 30hz... If you think i can, then i'll just stick with ported. I really want the ported design because a lot of songs i listen to peak in the 40hz range so this would be beneficial but some songs that are also very loud are low hitting in the 32hz range. Just wanna make sure i win both ways.

Tip- At 32hz, ALL tests in different position(well over 10) except for 2 did the Db level drop 0.8-1.0Db depending on power output then picked back up at 34hz and on both ported and sealed. So, if you want dominating ultra low bass, try and get your box to peak at this area to help yourself out.

All windows up doors shut- Sealed, passenger side firing forward right behind back seat- 111.2Db 56.3 watts Sealed, passenger side firing up right behind back seat- 114.7Db 74.9 watts Sealed, passenger side firing up right behind back seat, windows rolled down to maximize output- 116.3Db 56.3 watts The only test left is to build my last test box but cant until weather gets warmer.

thanks. will do research

What is the power rating on these and what si2s do they come in?

Well back on topic- I KNOW AUDIOBAHN! I've ran the original immortal, the new eternal series, ultra excursion and flame compression. Results- Eternal series- Rated for 900wrms. Gave metered power of 334w clean power verified by o-scope and after 47 seconds, the sub severely heated up and something got damaged inside. Brand new at the time! Due to its thermal limit being reached that early... Lied about power handling. Flame compression- Lasted 3 weeks. Spider came unglued, sub shot forward and slammed back down, damaged coil big time. Only thing holdin it down was rubber surround. Ultra excursion- Distributing roughly 400wrms with a clipped signal. After 13 seconds, both coils caught on fire. Had to pry the sub out of box and throw it on ground. The box prevented any flames from occurring visibly but smoke was everywhere. Immortal- This sub was the best but still severely overrated. rated for 2000wrms. Damaged both coils one after another thermally after running about 1100w max clipping for about 6 minutes. I did the same test with an Audioque HD315 which is what I replaced the immortal with and the AQ never ever got warm. That's why I bought another one and they still work no problems.

stop using graphing software. This is a real world discussion forum with real installs. Stop going virtual because those software progs are WAY off. I can prove it to you with a few pics if i have too if ur not wanting that info because of that, then i'm curious as well as why need it?

if you know to setup your amps and build your box right and know what type of stress to look out for on your sub, then it's fine. Meade is running 4kwrms per btl tuned at 30hz so it's not impossible.

there is no such thing as peak or you cant rate an amp by peak. And any amp's rms rating will vary on output. AQ's 1200d has the capability of outputting 1470w @1ohm at 14.4v There are things you have to consider- 14.4v rated, you must have the best electrical system to be able to sustain 14.4 in the back. 1ohm, you wont see 1ohm unless you wire at a DCR of around 0.35-0.5 which isn't safe for daily. Again, this is with any typical amp. Resistance varies, voltage varies. But that amp is the best price to performance for under $300 that i know of. Now, if you stepped up another $45, you could get the opti2000d which does 1,940w @0.5ohms and 1,600w at 1ohm. That amp is one of few that is 0.5 ohm stable.

Well, that meter is comin in handy... I've got spreadsheets on my computer right now of multiple setups of what they do from 30hz-52hz in 1hz increments off of a 100w amp. I chose low power so when i make a change i can see it's difference better with low power. So far i've tested 8 different positions(i don't list all of them due to bad output and tested others with failure as well in output potential) using 1 10" sub ported at 42hz(just because it's only box i have at the moment before it gets warmer) (This is daily driver only) I've tested all positions AT THE HEADREST ONLY. So, all the Db ratings below are noticeably low. I've been to comp before in the past but man!, gettin loud at the headrest is ridiculous, hehe. This is really gonna be a challenge. I'm either gonna have to buy me another box or build me one so i can do further testing in a couple weeks from now but this is what i have found out so far- Test is having sub and port on baffle. Measured at headrest, all windows up and doors shut for following measurements- Sub up, port up, passenger side, right behind back seat- 117.6Db 47.7 watts Sub up, port up, driver side, right behind back seat - 117.7Db 47.7 watts Sub forward, port forward, drivers side, right behind rear seat- 115.11Db 56.3 watts Sub back, port back, 15" from hatch door- 118.8Db 47.7 watts Sub back, port back, 11" from hatch door- 119.7Db 47.7 watts Sub forward, port forward, passenger side, right behind rear seat- 118.8Db 47.7 watts Measured at headrest, windows rolled down for maximum reading(sunroof does NOT help being open at any amount) Sub forward, port forward, passenger side, right behind rear seat- 118.6Db 47.7 watts. Note- with having windows down with this setup, the entire test from 30-52hz was within 116.2-119.1Db varying wattage of 5.8 watts - 95.8 watts. This was the most consistent scoring output level. Sub back, port back, 11" from hatch door- 122.7Db 47.7 watts The next box i will be using to test will have port on a different wall. Conclusion- Best results are obtained by- firing back(driver's side), firing forward(subs must me on far left and\or right side with port in middle or there is a significant drop in output), firing up(driver's side) The test box spans to almost full width of car when firing back and forward. When i build test box, i will install wall extenders to see if taking up more volume in the car under certain tests yields higher readings at headrest or not. Again, all tests are at Driver's side Headrest ONLY. The scores you see here will more than likely be higher when measured for competition purposes on dash or kick panel. More updates to come in a couple weeks.