shizzzon

mines an import and he told me that he doesnt know how to make one for mine because i have a hairpin stator... i do not know what that is but Iraggi told me he will make a 300A for me. He said it will do 145A at idle, that's good enough for me. A year ago, i talked to Iraggi bout makin an alt for my car and at the time, he was the only one who actually knew how to. There are others that have aftermarket alts made by companies beside Iraggi but Iraggi has the highest amperage alt for my car and for a lot of others too. I'm actually gonna drive down there and have him do it when i have it done since he's only 4 hrs away from me.

not safe. Your actual resistance would be 1.0 ohm exactly. Since i've seen impedance rise less than 200% of it's DCR, then it's possible that some notes will be under 2 ohms.

i didnt take any pics... didnt really see the point. I drive a scion tc so i went through this massive thread over at scionlife.com about gutting the tc for sound deadening. Well, his car looks like mine, or is going to when i am completely done. Whenever i see that thread over there, my pics would be the same as his so i never even bothered.

U can run and get full potential out of a sub underpowered if the box is larger than recommended. It will increase it's efficiency but lower power handling mechanically.

that doesnt matter, that's not enough experience, what i... hehe, just messin with ya. Well thats great, the bls definitely. they'd be a lot closer to xmax then the btls, more potential for loud...

OWW, broke my finger replying! hehe Powermaster - 865-688-5953

well this was the last install scenario- my HU has 4v preouts. I had this amp that was suppose to go up to 8v... for some reason, on the o-scope, i ended up maxing out the gain and the wave STILL wasn't clipped yet! I was on 23\35 on the volume. I did not want to go any higher because it took forever to turn up. so i ended up boosting the bass a little so i could back the gain back down... Evidentally, when the boost starts sloping down in both directions, thats where some frequencies were not set equally. I am willing to bet that is what happened. So, i might not need an EQ for me at all. But, wont know until i get my new amps in. I got a new head unit and i can turn volume up easier. Still Alpine but $600 more of it, hehe

i am not aware that they make alts for nissans?

if you dont have an o-scope, go to a shop and ask if they do. If they do, then go ahead and get that amp power and have them set the amps up for you for a fee, should be under $100 even if you let them run all wires. MAKE SURE OF THIS- if you let a shop do it, request that you know what the maximum clean volume number is on the stereo so you do not exceed it. And do not change the bass\treble settings either. Increasing them after tuned will make it necessary to decrease the volume. Decreasing bass and treble does not necessarily mean your max volume can then be raised higher. Remember that. The the more you over power subs, the cleaner the signal must be.

Iraggi - 615-287-7991 Excessive Amperage - 334-712-9955 HO Alt - http://www.highoutputalternator.com/contact%20us.htm Ohio Generator - 330-875-6677

haha, i speak in tongue. Briefly- my frequency response may not be flat because there is a slight boost in the middle of the range from my last amp setup i had. Possible reason that other frequencies may have been lower... So, to sum it up even brieflier(haha), wait til i get my amp replacement before i restart a possible pre-complaint on something i havent tested for a new setup. Man, i bet that just made ya shake your head with a 7 sec headache.

200% for 2-3 full seconds. play some songs with constant bass like some lil jon songs. IF that don't pop it then you aren't drawing at least a consistent 100A of current minimal. It's ok if your fuse dont pop, hehe, it just lets your dreams stay dreams when you know the recommended fuse is 300A !!! and you cant even pop 100 yet, hehe

no, he's not hard headed, he is just one of many people who ask questions and get answers that are completely different than what he was expecting. How about this amp?.... that amp is terrible get this amp---> And just leave the reply like that... You get enough people who answer your questions like that, you are gonna want to know why? But when nobody wants or can give an elaborate answer, it frustrates those who are trying to learn. We've been there, he's tryin to do research, just needs to be pointed in right direction. This is a good place to hibernate at for a while. I'd also suggest reading technical documents near very bottom of this forum as well as going to www.the12volt.com interesting info there too.

so would ICONs. I never really recommend L7s unless you have gigantic amount of space to deal with which if you did, well if it were me, i'd run a lot more subs in that space!, hehe. L7s are just box hogs in my opinion. Yea they are loud but require a lot of volume.

didnt i say before to get an AQ-1200d from Audioque? $249 shipped, does 1470w @1ohm. This topic sounds familiar but my post isnt here. This must be a cloned post for the same thing. What you want is like asking for a viper, or one that is just like it for $30,000... We've been in the car audio scene for quite some time. Most to all of us do not know each other personally, well that's a given, so we have nothing to gain personally just by helping others out. So why would you have the slightest thought when different people all want to set it in stone that the amps you are looking at are not a good idea that you have the thought that we may be trying to get you to spend extra money for no reason? It's coincidental that we all have the same opinion, isn't it? No, it's not. We have all had experience in the car audio world and know what to expect from companies that have been around forever and those who are new. We know or some of us know how the economy works and general business practices because everybody wants the best for the least money, who doesnt? But that doesnt mean you need to sacrifice necessities to get that lower price, you catch me? We see things that you havent had experience with yet. We are not coercing you into buying the same thing we have or the most expensive thing we can think of... That is bad practice for this site and it wont happen! You cannot judge pricing online for someone who may be somewhat new to this because ecommerce prices fluctuate from dealer to dealer due to authorized\non authorized sellers, refurbs marked as new and so on. So for you, it may be hard to justify the good vs the bad product online based on pricing on a general sense. With enough time talkin on boards you will start to get experience as well as physical experience. Oh, and get that AQ-1200d,

well good thing i went with second skin then! I got 3 layers of damplifier on all my flooring and rear quarter panel walls(walls beside of back seat) and 1 layer of fatmat xtreme (mass loader) on top of all the flooring as well just as an added deadener. I still need to do my hatch area and hatch itself and both doors up front. I ordered $700 worth of sound deadening, plan on using it all hopefully. I'll probably need to order some rattlepad or overkill after i get my install in there to see if i need\want any or not. But yea, that stuff is strong.

Oh, I'm close as well. I'm thinkin what it is is alpine units bass control is not a crossover but a center frequency and you can adjust freq and bandwidth. What I have set is +2 on both bass and treble with highest bandwidth possible. So... I believe is slowly sloping the frequency range. I had to have it set like that with the last amps I had or it wouldn't get full clean power without a little help. If my next amps are like that, I'll just get a line driver and 3way x-over since I need that anyway

Oh, I'm close as well. I'm thinkin what it is is alpine units bass control is not a crossover but a center frequency and you can adjust freq and bandwidth. What I have set is +2 on both bass and treble with highest bandwidth possible. So... I believe is slowly sloping the frequency range. I had to have it set like that with the last amps I had or it wouldn't get full clean power without a little help. If my next amps are like that, I'll just get a line driver and rway x-over since I need that anyway

Past amps I've had, according to o-scope, if I max one frequency out, maybe about 15hz below that, its not so if I increase the gain to get it to get max clean power, other frequencies above will clip. That's why a lot of amps I've used will even say next to freq response +- 3db because it varies. The eq is not to be set by rta for sq, but for maximum clean output power for low, mid and high range for lsq.

I've been doin a little research so stop me if i'm wrong. I need an EQ, large band, so that when i setup my amps, i can get the amplitude on as many frequencies as possible to their max potential without clipping because the output power on all frequencies is not the same... Ok, so, i found out that graphic vs parametric... parametric eq is better for this because of it's larger bandwidth. So, this is the only thing i have came up with, let me know what u think if it'll work for me or anything else you can think of- Audiocontrol DQS - it has 30band but do not know if it's graphic or parametric... Audiocontrol DQXS - it has, hehe, 142! I dont think it matters what type of eq this is, hehe. I know the DQXS will work but that's my fallback option due to how expensive it is.

your reading 12.7 with the car on? hmm... If you do everything or about 90% of everything i said above, if your voltage up front is 14.4v, then your voltage in rear should be 14.1-14.2v. On hard bass notes, you shouldnt even drop below 13.5v with the setup above. And I never let voltage dip below 11.8v. It's just a personal threshold for me. If it's dippin that low, either need to turn the volume down or get a better electrical system.

you have a BTL, 418Fis, wire that sucker in parallel. You definitely blow a fuse like that. And trust me, as long as you set the amp right, clip free, it can take that amp all day long, as long as you got the BTL loaded. Now, you say it's not poppin 100A fuse wired in series- Well, 1,600w @2ohm, your nominal should be 3ohm, dont know why it's 2, but lets say 3 anyway. You'll never see 3ohm during play, so whatever it's rated at @4ohm is probably the most it will put out, or just a tad more. To measure output power, get dmm and hook up probes to speaker out terminal on amp. Get an ammeter and clamp it around the positive speaker wire only, leave the negative out of the field. Run a constant test tone and when the numbers on both meters stop fluctuating drastically, take a snapshot in your head and memorize\write the numbers down. Multiply both numbers together to get wattage output. That will get you very close to true output. It may be off by only a few watts due in inconsistencies in the meters but all in all, it's really close.

Well, since it sounds like ur serious, then this is what u r going to need- 2kw-2.5kw amp. 2-3 layers of sound deadening... Everywhere! A 200-300alt, depending on batt capacity. And for batts- approx 120aH worth just for stereo system. I also recommend cadence fh-8 to anyone because they can shut off amp power if voltage ever drops below 12v. No capacitors, please! Batts are way better. From front to rear, approx 10,000 strands of wire run to have voltage drop to rear very minimal. Approx no worse than .2 - .3v if that. That would equal - 2 3/0s 2 1/0 knuconceptz kolossus 3 1/0 anyone else 3-4 4awg Run under car in metal flex conduit for more room. Remember to silicon ANY holes that you drill up thru the car to secure the conduit. Now, start preppin, hehe.

hey tasos, may i ask why your sub out is only 8 of 15? Unless you know something i dont, i don't see no way that amp is outputting 1Kw of power set like that. I was just curious if you are afraid the amp might damage the sub... Just checkin. I've always had mine maxed out at 15, that way it lets me run everything flat on the stereo itself and control all processes via external devices...

Well, first things first, There is no such thing as a Panasonic 6900ub... but upon further research, you have a Pioneer DEH-6900ub. Ok, first things first, is the subwoofer level control on the stereo turned on or if it is on, can it be increased? Do not increase the bass, the stereo will have a sub on\off setting but somewhere either there or somewhere else should\might be a control to adjust the Sub output level. Check into that.