shizzzon

here is the general rule i believe- trunk car- subs and port to the rear of the vehicle. Hatchback\suv - subs up, port back. trunk car- if completely sealed off from the rear, subs and port forward. Now, this is a generalization. the loudest possible direction for certain vehicles in the above categories may be different based upon the equipment you have, the box volume and install basically.

Hey sundownz, you say that the Saz-1500d protects the RCA line too, what kind of protection is that called? Is that Overload protection?

oh yea!!! You are absolutely right! I forgot about Mmats! Well, now is possible by 2 amps. I've never used either. I've owned the opti2000d, beefy amp, but never powered it up. Sold it instead before i had a chance to play with it.

so you need an amp that can do 1000-1500w @ 1ohm $300 shipped.... Audioque AQ1200D - $249 shipped. 1470w @1ohm 14.4v

one that works... No, but seriously, hehe - I dont know specs of those 8s but look for an amp that can do the power you need at 1 ohm. You can get an amp that does it at 4 ohm as well but would probably cost a LOT more.

I own 2 of em, never let me down yet. They are a must have. I practically preach to people around my area to have one of these in every install. Safety always comes first for me in a daily driver over performance any day.

That's awesome man. Hey, if i get my install done by the end of April, i'm gonna be goin down to Cape Coral so if i meet my goal, i might get in touch with ya and stop by on the way down there.

oh yea, i'm certain. They are rated for it in the manual as that would be a sad mistake if they werent but for more info about them- I had discussed this amp before with some db draggers a long time ago over at termpro. When they were first the "big buzz" amp, the best price to performance ratio amp, there were people running them strapped at 0.5 ohms daily for some decent high rise installs and burping them at 0.25 strapped! I remember on one of these threads over there that 0.25 ohms strapped is very touchy with these amp which i imagine so, ....duh, hehe but, yea i know they are. Even CA&E did the test on this amp which said it put out just a little over 1900w at 0.5 ohms, resistor-wise. not with a sub on it. 1,600w at 1ohm, can't remember the rest of the specs but yea, that's why i am wondering.

for a 4" port - 58.25" long. Non flanged(like using pvc pipe the whole time) for a 3" port - 32.25" long. Non flanged(like using pvc pipe the whole time) If using a square\rectangle port lengths are as follows for port areas given- 8sq in - 36.25" long 9sq in - 41.50" long 10sqin - 46.00" long Port lengths get astronomically long when being designed for small Net-ed enclosure sizes when required to be tuned low at the same time.

i was reading the .5 wiring thread a while ago and somethin hit me that i'm curious about. The opti2000d by lanzar is the only amp they have that is 0.5ohm stable The Saz-1500d\3000d "used to" have 0.5 ohm warranty coverage until... well anyways. The opti2000d is 0.5 stable all day every day. Is this the case with SAZ amps as well or are they just lenient on below 1 ohm stability? The opti is the only class d amp i know of that is guaranteed to be stable at 0.5 ohms, so curious about this.

how long do you think it's gonne be before we see a MTX 9500 recone thread on here somewhere?

i havent even looked at the link but if it says that it needs 0.50 cubes ported at 33hz, with 0.05 displacement, then you need a box that WILL BE 0.50 cubes AFTER the sub and port are installed in the box. Now, you can port outside the box but it will look extremely goofy. We are talkin about a 3-4" port diameter running between 36"-65" long... I don't forsee this happening.

haha, well, i guess we'll just leave it at that until i get it in, build a test box then give my review of it.

hey ///M5, were you actually going to go there and see for yourself or just goin to the city?

well, the best port would be flanged at both ends and that's typically circular ports. If this is for daily driver, it really doesnt matter. You apparently have enough space to do a slot port so buying parts for flanged ports may be a waste of money.

Iraggi - 615-287-7991 Call him early in the day, like around noon or so. He is a 1 man company but very good. Ask him about his lifetime warranty. He makes a LOT more alts than what's on ebay.

it's possible that you might not tell that much difference when switching amps... or you might because you are getting a proper enclosure for your sub. It really depends on how good your hearing is really, you'll find out soon, hehe. and about the "new" rms rating - i'm not really for sure. I know fully loaded with cooling, it should be around 1500w. With what you want, maybe 1100-1200. Not to say that 1500w amp isnt a good idea. It is, just don't clip and you're fine.

all i know is it's very consistent according to what he was saying and will never not be consistent unless damaged by extreme pressure. I told him i was planning on reaching 150 someway or another. He said 150 is like babying this meter. I still expect about 2 more weeks before i see anything.

i have done some research over on CA.com and one person actually posted results. They showed that this meter was actually reading lower than the Tlab pro meter by about 1-1.5db! It was actually right on with the tlab meter when the same peak frequency of their car was measured... odd but true. I think their Tlab sensor needs to be recalibrated, i think that right there is pretty sweet.

in his auction, it states he will not email anyone unless there is a very necessary reason too. I'm just gonna wait til the end of the month. If you look at his feedback, everybody is happy. Only 1 negative and that happened over 6 months ago.

how strong is the silicon holding up? With "900w of kenwood" with bass boost, it's possible to not only have clipped but there may be a leak in your box from that silicon resulting in bottoming out the sub. Hey bigjon, you better go over to buying a meter thread when u get a chance!

his is $249 before any discount. Go to ebay and get one for $80, i know he cant compete with that price. I dont know what price he was gonna quote but that's what i payed.

Somebody called me today.... It was MakeitLouder.com that called me. The guy was talking in XML so i had them transfer me to English, hehe. Well, got some answers but ///M5, you can still go over there and check it out yourself. He made references to another mic costing $1999 that is exactly the same as theirs, just not the same model number. MakeitLouder(i'll just call it mil from now on) states that they also manufacturer meters that go over 220Db for bomb testing. Go on their website to see! They have a couple of NASA members who use their meters for bomb testing he said. The meter that he was talkin about.. something 2510 i think he said was the name of it(the $1999 meter), reads both low and over 200db whereas theirs comes in seperate packages. One that goes up to 186 and the other used for bomb testing. Does mil's need to be recalibrated? No, unless hit with something hard like a bat, dumped in water over 400ft below level or some other catastrophic event. He says even then, it may only be off by 0.5-1.0 db. He said they are a small company trying to go big, big big... So, how exactly does this thing work? Well, he told me! Here is the answer- Inside of the black box is a Termlab sensor... NO, just playin, haha, ok here it is- Inside of the black box is a chunk of metal basically. Not just a box with metal obviously but basically it is. He said it's a Zirconium Metal Alloy. This metal is not affected by sea levels or anything else that other meters may be affected by however your stereo equipment is affected so a change in Db will be seen if it happens when tested at different sea levels. When air pressure reaches this metal, the alloy gives off a quick spurt of electricity which is how a DMM can measure voltage. He said the refresh time is solely dependent upon the equipment used. Typical DMMs refresh 3 times a second, Oscilloscopes refresh instantly which are preferred. My Velleman, he said, is perfect for this meter. He said this meter is hella accurate all the way up to 179Db. After 179, Pressures 179.1 - 182.0 were calibrated under a small frequency range and so were 182.1 - 186.0. He started to compare their's with Termpro's Meter- He states that any Db comparison to their's that is under 175Db should be exactly the same if not lower. Their meter(mil) is a LOT more strict when it comes to measuring pressure. After 175Db, he said Tlab's meter tend sto read about 1db higher than theirs. Anything read over 180Db(tlab meter) he states the meter starts to become very inaccurate(thats a fact according to termpro). He also states that these competitions where people are doing over 180db has got to be inaccurate as well. He said due to the pressure involved, he believes his meter wouldnt even see 171 or close to that range in the loudest of vehicles. The meter NEVER needs to be recalibrated regardless of how long you use it due to the metal alloy's aging characteristics lasting longer than humans themselves unless you severely damage it. he said i can hold the meter in my hand when setting up daily driver to be loudest at driver's head rest and it will not affect the reading at all. He says manufacturers buy these exact meters to test their proto guns on to print out Db curves to determine strength's of discharge. He offered me a discount but as you know i already bought one so yea!, let's Git R Dun!

when i get my install done...whenever that is... i will have everything installed and keep the electrical system completely stock. I will have more power than you 418Fis! I will attenuate the preout voltage on the stereo until voltage drop is unnoticeable. I will then replace my alt with Iraggi 300A alt. I will then increase the preout voltage from my head unit until voltage drop picks back up. Then i will add batts. I keep logs when i do this so i know what works and what doesnt.

I use Cadence FH-8 SMART Fused Blocks. I "think" Rockford makes\made one but an unfamiliar with product and model number. here is a link directly from Cadence to purchase - Cadence FH-8 SMART Fuse Block