shizzzon

it's the only 2 places worth going, i've been to both and live in the best- Louisville. Used to be Lexington was better but Louisville is gettin more and more popular.

no, i'm in KY. I plan on taking a trip down to FL if my setup gets complete by no later than the beginning of May. I went down there last year to Cape Coral and stayed with my cousin for a week. It's real hot here during the summer but you guys got it a lot warmer than we do year round. I'm lucky i dont live in warm climate year round... if i did, I'd be building different setups all the time, hehe.

Your welcome, hehe Actually part of the time i was signed in here.... i had to leave for a few minutes but i was still double checkin my math while i was away in my head. I don't know, i just like to deal with numbers. I do a lot of video editing as well and gotta do lots of math when calculating how much information can fit on one disc for every project i do so calculating speaker boxes is just the same i guess... Well again, good luck and let er wang. We got hit...again with a lot of snow so it has...again for the 3rd time held me up on sound deadening. Now some of my wheel well lights aren't working for some unknown reason so i gotta wait and diagnose them as well. I think i stretched the wires on them too tight because when i go to grab them, hehe, it's VERY tight wiring. Well, i'm gonna go play on the Wii some so i can get all these numbers out of my head before i think it's for my setup, hehe.

i just did some research and was told to let the admins know to go here - IPSBeyond.com That is all. I went there but am lost and dont wanna register so there ya go.

oh yes, i know what you are talking about! This site would save money in bandwidth if it had that. Wouldnt have to load every single page to check on things. Just mouse over threads and it would display the first line of the first post in the topic so you can see what it's about.

i dont know what the lowest is before danger but my personal preference is to stay higher than the threshold, hehe. I believe most class d amps will fail or partially get damaged below 10.5 or 10v. Some may even get damaged at 11 depending on other variables such as current resistance. Anyways, i would try and stay above 12v at all times. Now, if you are dipping to like 11.8, then no biggy but i'd still try to stay above 12v. If you ever dip below 11.8, for example, i'd either upgrade your electrical or if you dont want to, install a Smart block in your car so that if it does drop below 12v, the block will instantly shut off power going to amps until voltage rises above 12v. If voltage dips below 12v only because of certain hard hitting bass notes then the block will make the song sound like it's skipping if it is doing it constantly. I use these blocks for all installs including class a\b amps just to be safe regardless of how strong my electrical is. Something can go wrong while driving and not know it. Doesn't matter if you got 30 300a alts and 1,000 group 8d batts for a 500w stereo system. If they all failed.... so will your amps if they arent turned off in time. I love my analogies,

Well, here's the thing- You have 4.03 cubes of internal space before any displacement... thats the main problem! 15" BTL has 0.21 cuft displacement leaving us at - 3.82 cubes internal I'm not going to factor in any internal bracing because it will be SO small that it will not audibly change anything. Ok, here is what i got- I plotted this design using a 35hz tuning. If you make the port exactly as said, it may be 34.5hz, which isn't audibly noticeable. Ok, as follows- port dimensions- 13" high 3.25" wide 25.5" long (suppose to be 26.25" but since you use 3\4" wood, 0.75" of length will be used as the thickness of wood when air rolls out of port.) So, YOU are making 25.5" long, hehe Ok, this is how it is to be made- Remember - keep the port 3.25" wide internally at all times! 13" high port. Run the port depth to the back of the box and stop 3.25" before you hit the back wall. Turn 90 degrees and run the port another 9" long(do not count length of the port after this turn as part of the width of the previous port!) That's it. You say sub up port back, try and put the port facing back exiting out of the passenger's side. This should make it louder for the driver. If you have it exit out of the driver's side, the passenger will probably hear the bass as being louder. That should do it. The lowest possible recommendations but still able to fit. Hope it sounds great. This tuning is for 35hz. Anything lower, a lot more complicated. Oh, and this port, this is just 1 port. I couldnt do dual vents so this post is good for 1 slot port.

34" x 18" x 14.5" = 5.1354 cubic ft EXTERNAL 32.5" x 16.5" x 13" = 4.0343 cubic ft INTERNAL Single Baffle 32.5" x 16.5" x 12.25" = 3.8015 cubic ft INTERNAL Double Baffle 3 2x2s (if they are really 2", most are 1.5") - 0.1053 cubic ft Since you need all the space you can get, I would use All thread and L brackets for bracing to save on displacement space. I would also use circle ports to save on port displacement. 32hz tuning is gonna get you the LOWZ that you are not aiming for... The lower you tune, the longer you the port and the more space it takes up! You can tune at 35-37hz to get louder in the punchier bass while still retaining low end, just not Brutal low end. Port length is going to be crazy, even at 35hz. You are looking in the area of mid to high 20" lengths per port, either 6 3" or 3-4 4" circle ports flanged at both ends. Now, i looked up on going dual vents and here is what i got - the port displacement for using 3\4" wood would put the NET volume under the recommended volume. Now, you can use smaller port area but then you sacrifice potential high output and more turbulence. All of the calculations were done assuming double baffle install. If there is anything else you might be able to do to squeeze that little bit more, let me know.

if you have calculated all displacements properly including port displacement and wood thickness of port displacement, a port of- 18.5" wide 10" tall 26.4" long would work for 34hz. The dimensions are for a slot port(one that shares walls of the enclosure). It is important to know this because if you make a port where the port doesn't share the walls of the enclosure then the beginning acoustical length will be shorter resulting in a slightly higher tuning, probably no more than 1-2hz though if you are inaccurate.

i posted this somewhere else on this forum too - When you get your radius, take something sharp, like a nail and a piece of short, narrow flat wood and run it into one part of the wood. Measure out the radius on this piece of wood. Drill a hole that a pencil can fit through tightly as point B. Then run the pencil through and there is no way it will get away from ya. You have to make a perfect circle with that.

you gonna have to wait for JimJ, Dave Brooks, ///M5, Johnecon2001 to come on here to answer the "imaging" part of horns. They recommended them to me for my upcoming install as i have never owned them before. I do know that they are specifically designed to be mounted under the dash on each side so the sound rolls up, contours with the dash. The CD2s are going for $470 plus shipping. They are 109Db efficient at 1w. They only handle 30w so that saves you a lot of money on amps. But just the efficiency part of it, horns are the loudest they get from my research. You can go find you some 200w tweeters but their efficiency isnt as high so not as loud. Oh and those HLTs that some companies make, they(the guys i mentioned above) told me not to use those as they peak like crazy so sound quality is gonna be up and down up and down in their playable frequency range.

I'm just curious, hehe, none of us here could afford something like this, like bigjon said, it would be a dream system for his lincoln, hehe. Anyway, when realistically planning a setup like this for daily, safety and reliable decisions must be made and somethings make me curious as to what needs to be done to a vehicle for prepping since it will be driven. First off, Air ride suspension. Is this the only type of suspension capable of holding all this weight? I ask because when i was researching for my car, not only is it required to get Coil overs for increased weight up to a certain point but also different type of tires for the added weight as well. I do not know the weight rating for upgraded coil overs from any brand but is Air Ride the last resort when it comes to this type of install and how would one know it's weight threshold rating? Does a vehicle suffer from extreme loss of MPG or horsepower? I've always feared this when thinking about extreme designs.... but your designs are far greater then my ideas, lol. You've came a long way, I remember you before SMD's website was even created and it's amazing what you've done. You're not even a dedicated competitor yet you are probably more popular than many competitors are, that's priceless.

well, i see your 6x9s are behind your seat so they gotta go since ur getting a blow through or they'll be in the way. Here are some ideas\options- Install horns by Image Dynamics under your dash on each side. These are for your higher frequencies. The better ones you get by them, the louder they will be, simply put. The CD2s are.... according to specs, hella loud. The only thing else you would need is midbass drivers. You can install a couple, one in each door then possibly add more behind the seats in the corners of the truck, mounted up high... wherever you want to back there really. Also, since you own a truck, it doesn't take as much power to get loud compared to a car or SUV because your cabin area is a lot smaller.

Also, it wouldnt hurt to research this- www.aceorangecounty.com That's who i went through when i got my security film. Especially if you got a pager on your alarm, you can feel safe that the potential of actual theft decreases dramatically. Vandalism is the only thing that would really happen at this point.

yep, a few yrs ago when i was researching batteries, i came across AGM technology. I said to myself then, there would be no other battery i would put inside my vehicle other than an AGM battery because of safety reasons. It's funny that the car i bought new a couple yrs ago has a factory AGM sealed battery. There's a reason. Besides, they have good specs other than safety. Sure they cost more but are worth it, every bit of it.

measure it and see. However it's still not going to be completely accurate because they are flexible and probably move while drawing. They can slightly stretch as well so you wouldnt really know if it's a perfect circle either.

Oh guess what, Guess What!!!! I left a message for them to call me yesterday... well, - I called them again today and no answer... and they Never called me back today either!!! Isn't that wonderful?!?! Good thing i didnt order from them and ordered from somewhere else. Hopefully he doesnt go directly through them to get it after i ordered it since it takes him 2 weeks to ship out AFTER payment clears.

the last Alpine i had, it wouldnt except discs burned higher than 24x. I always burn at 16x because some home stereos i have came across do not like speeds above 16x. 16x is only 5 minutes and some seconds for a whole disc. I would use nero over winamp to burn discs any day. I do not trust burning drivers for software that was originally never wrote for burning. You don't go to Auto Zone to get the best performance parts there is to get... Same thing as you don't use an audio player to burn discs, especially if you are troubleshooting here.

Try ebay, then Squaretrade the warranty if they accept it. HC1400 for $188 http://cgi.ebay.com/KINETIK-HC1400-KHC1400...7QQcmdZViewItem HC1800 for $206 http://cgi.ebay.com/KINETIK-HC1800-KHC1800...7QQcmdZViewItem

well, with only 3000w total, that was another problem. about 3 yrs ago, one of my buddies had, and this is budget funny but true, 2 12" Power Acoustik MoFos off of a Cadence amp, it was Cadence's longest orange plated one with Heatsinks on the side. I think it was a 9000 model or that number was in there. Capable of doing somewhere between 1000-1800w of power. He hit a 150.1 on an AC, i know it's not accurate but giving you something to compare to.

if you are going to install a battery, get one that Kinetik recommends. Either get 2 HC800s in parallel or 1 HC1400 or 1 HC1800. You'd be discharging those small batts a lot faster then the other options listed. If you get that amp, make sure that you get the right batt setup. Their model numbers correspond to total wattage output. If you get a 1000w amp, are you gonna power your door speakers off of an amp? If you are calculate that into the equation as well. So far, you need at least an hc1000 which doesnt exist, hehe. An HC800 would be at the MINIMUM i would recommend, especially if you choose not to upgrade your alt... which honestly you probably don't need to unless you have some pretty bad voltage drop.

You say 6 ohms... that doesnt sound like a Dual 2 ohm sub. Put both probes together on your DMM and make sure it reads 0.0 ohms before testing. A lot of D4 coils read 2.8-3.2 ohms, which translates into 5.6 - 6.4 ohms which is what you are getting unless your DMM is not calibrated right. This wont fix your sound problem but i'd still check into that as well. If it's not you reading the DMM wrong, then you got Dual 4s and not Dual 2s.

well go ahead and sell em all then but what WE were saying was to just rebuild a ported enclosure for 1 and power all that sub with only that amp because- That amp is just right for 1 L7 Your current enclosure was way to small for the power you had.

Bass MekaniK is mostly always good, almost like the best if that's possible... Also try the following- Bass 305 Bass Outlaw Bass Patrol Dr. Crankenstein Quad Maximus

burn slower too. try 16x