shizzzon

I always use Titebond glue to glue the pieces together and Liquid Nails as the sealer around all adjacent pieces. When using a jigsaw, just drill a hole somewhere to get the Jigsaw started. if you don't have a compass large enough to draw the circle cutout diameter, then do the following- Take a flat, narrow straight piece of wood and measure the radius out on this piece of wood from point A(which is 0) to point B(which is the radius of your circle). Then take and drill 2 small holes at point A and point B. Take a pencil and run it through point B, take something sharp and run it through point A. That way it is now a 1 size compass specifically just for your project. If you do it right, the pencil and the sharp item that you choose to run through the drilled holes should fit in there pretty tight so it doesn't change angle while drawing. I've had to do this many times with 15s. And depending on how much pressure and care you put into the box depends on what else to do to it. You may want to put resin everywhere on the inside to seal up the MDF. When securing the subwoofer to the box, you may want to use Hurricane Nuts and bolts to hold the sub down. You may need to brace your box every 12-16" if there is no brace present. When bracing, you may want to use bracing to join ALL adjacent pieces together on top and\or bottom and bracing 12-16" on every wall including Baffle near the middle of the walls. All-thread works great. If you can join all the Allthread runs in all directions in one central point, that's a tight brace. You may want to have all corners in your box rounded or cut some scrap pieces and make all corners 45 degrees. Same goes with port if using slot port. If more serious, you may want to use 2-8 sheets of MDF for your baffle depending on pressure and competition you plan on doing. You may also want to, for the walls, use 2 sheets and leave a 1-2" gap in the middle and fill the gap with Sand or more extreme, with concrete. Do this for all walls, top and bottom. Choose your goal and go for it.

I own this exact setup. Email me at [email protected] to get ahold of me faster to resolve this issue if we don't here. Make sure that u are using alpine's ipod cable. If u are, u may need another one. Bluetooth- make sure ur volune is up, at least around 17 or so. I'll check out my settings to see if I can find anything else. My problem was backwards when I got mine. I could hear but nbody could hear me. That was because the mic was in wrong port.

Ok, i've been seein this everywhere, who is Sean?

here is their info - www.makeitlouder.com Mr. William Hamby 1394 Del Sol Lane San Diego CA 92154 U.S.A. 1 619 662 3551 [email protected]

wow, L7s love ported box's but L7s also only shine in LARGE ported boxes too. You should try to build an enclosure for just 1 of those L7s ported with that amp. I'm sure it will be a lot louder, trust me. Since you have, you say, 6 cubes to work with...about that, build the largest ported box you can as long as it's under 6cubes ported NET and you should be very impressed. Try to get it as close to 6 as possible though. IF you can't, don't worry because you will need a decent size port which would take up some room.

he's right. You would get the same output power either way but strapping is safer because there is less chance of an error during setting up an amp per coil.

So what you are saying is.... Even though they have a frequency response from 3.5khz - 20khz, there's going to be that very narrow range of frequencies that when played back are extremely louder than the rest of the playable frequency range? Is that correct?

well, anything can be attenuated so i do not really understand the general statement of they are loud? If HLTs are overriding anything, they can be attenuated... So, if they are, what is the problem? Do they resonate? Do they distort?

well thats what i'm saying. IF it will sound REAL "off", then i won't even consider it. But, like u say, if it will make the stage terrible, then what are they suppose to be used for?

well, i hope so for that high of efficiency. Again, i'd like to make it known to those who didnt remember this little topic about what i needed in terms of mids and highs with 4KW of bass is that - i'm not competing in SPL or SQ, this is just for daily so LSQ or whatever it's called nowadays. I just never had tweeters behind me before and am worried if it's gonna make it sound as if all, or the majority of my music is all behind me... This is in a hatch so that is a plus.

the point at which the driver resonates

I'm expanding my research here so i can get the pros and cons of different equipment. In an earlier thread, Dave Brooks and other suggested i use HLCDs with 4Kw of bass so i don't drown out the stock tweeters that wouldnt be there by that time anyway. Anyway, i came across another gadget, a Horn Loaded tweeter with specs as good, if not Better than Image Dynamics HLCDs. These tweeters cost a little less, but i have questions on the technology in general, not really the product itself. Here is info - http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc...p;idproduct=363 Efficiency - 107Db @1W/1M 50wrms I tried to find some research on them and i found a little but do not know if it pertains to these type of tweeters. Are these type of tweeters solely dependent on the direction they are faced? Meaning, they do not cover a wide range, just a narrow range, whatever is in it's playing path? Even if that's true, what affect would it have if i had them facing me but from the same distance as the subwoofers were from my head? The only place i'd have room for them is right above the back seat. That wouldnt cause music to sound.... very "off" would it? Never used em before... And if that didnt work, what about these- http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc...p;idproduct=364 Those are 1" HLTs so they might be able to fit in my factory tweeter location. If they can mount-wise, they can handle some power! Efficiency - 102Db @1W/1M 75wrms

heres some more info- Fi's T/S parameters are taken AFTER break in. AQ's are taken fresh, stiff suspension and everything. Fs drops 8-10hz below what they are rated at after suspension has loosened up. that's why i put AQ in my list of top choices for my daily driver.

Well, I'm gettin a 300A alt internally regulated so I doubt I can have it set that high... Unless u tell me otherwise

Hey, now that's interesting to know. Now the main Q now is, what happens when this module acts up or fails? What kind of safety features do they have? U know this runs the whole car so, u know, is their risks?

And what happens when u have a car like mine that can only fit 1 alt? You sure can't run 16v then. Small cars can get loud but because of limited space, gotta pack as much potential amp power in a case as possible.

I just tried calling the company that makes the meter and all I got was a home-use answering machine... So far that just makes u guys even more skeptica huh?

Well,again, u guys know I didn't buy it to compare to a TL or something more, I just got it to know if what I do helps or not to get the most out of my daily setup. I have nothing to compare this mic too so don't expect me to.

They never say on their site, maybe it does on the disc... who knows. But however it does, this chart i seen, it was only extremely accurate with a Tlab when they were both measuring the peak frequency in the car so the way this meter measures pressure is different of coure but also a lot stricter which results in lower Db levels than tlab sensor. It's consistency for measuring 1 frequency to the next may be too strict? the meter does matter to a certain degree. Gotta have one that measures millivolts. 2nd, he said once you start reading up in the 140db range, anything higher then that, a cheaper DMM "shouldnt" have a problem getting somewhat accurate enough in the Db output. He says this because after about 140db, the millivolt ratings start to spread out more, meaning you need more millivolts just to gain 1 Db so a slight innaccuracy in the meter wont affect your score much if any.

Fi equipment would be the route i would take if i were you. the BL or the Q would be great.

If\when Sundown brings out anything better than the 3000d, to make the company Stand Out from others is consistency. What i mean by that is for instance- the 1500d, it was tested down to 0.175 ohms! Now, down to 0.5 ohms is a lot more stable to run. Some people can run these amps at 0.5 daily if they know what they are doing. The 3000d, tested at 0.6 ohms. For reference sake, it may be able to do 0.5 daily if you know what you are doing. The key here though about consistency is this that makes sundown so good- Real World tests show that wattage output EXCEEDS ratings at voltage drop as low as 11v, if not lower! Efficiency levels are very high, 80-90% in between 1-2 ohms on the 1500d. If Sundown can put this type of consistency into larger powered amps, then there is one say that you know Sundown doesn't do, and that is cut corners. Some companies, once they start selling these ridiculous amps that can do 5,7,10Kw, all they are worried about is the amp doing it. They can care less about efficiency or it's stability below rating or it's ability to still perform under low voltage or just being able to output it's rated power at low voltage. Just about every company i come across cut's corners like this when they start manufacturing Big daddy amps. I know a 7K amp isn't a typical daily driving amp but if it was made with this type of technology, it would be better than a lot of others out there. Oh, and another thing about cutting corners. Some companies also believe that if they make an amp large enough that it need not be strappable. This capability should not be chosen by the company but rather by the user. If a company were to manufacturer a 15,000w class d amp, it better be strappable, regardless of reason. Just because that feature is there, gives more props to the company for thinking ahead instead of restricting one's goals for a custom setup.

Well, while we have non believers, hehe, i just got done reading a 19 page thread over on www.caraudio.com about this thing. After going through all the posts of people calling each other names, hehe, i got to some results! The results- This meter's accuracy is DEPENDENT upon the quality of your DMM. Now, i have 2 meters and an o-scope. I'll probably use the o-scope anyway but it says it is dependent because the entire time you wish to use a DMM, it must be able to read millivolts and be accurate. The voltage reading need not be moving before testing begins as an example. I own a triplett DMM and have never had a problem with it. Results vs TLab PRO - This cheapo meter was reading LOWER than a Tlab in ALL frequencies. Wha ha ha, i win.... no, but seriously, that's what this chart shows over in this thread. He did state this- TLab PRo's sensor give a Db reading by averaging 3 different frequencies into 1 score. This meter just measures Db based upon the single loudest note. Also, in his testing, by the time he reached the Fs of his car, this meter and the Tlab Pro sensor were near exact Db reading, interesting.... So anyways, apparently this meter is good. The instructions it comes with they say are completely retarded but does come with a cd that helps a lot. It took this one guy 23 days to get his once he ordered it so it's gonna be a while for me i'm sure.

i've never really studied this, i've heard about it but never was really interested. I take it - 1\4wave is for gettin loud, can also be used for SPL comp? 1\8wave is what you say, ultra SQ, hehe what would 1\2wave be considered? the frequency will always be super high....

Exactly what i thought... but when they have comparisons with a Tlab sensor being less than 0.2db off in many cases, it makes me wonder exactly is in that little box and what is it doing... I'm sure they would never say how it works or else their business is exposed but if it works, hey i dont care if i had to hold headphones in my hand and hook em up to a humidifier that must be placed inside the car... if it's accurate enough, it's accurate enough...

yea i did 1 minute after i posted this thread. The guy\company said it take 5-9 business days AFTER payment has cleared before item is shipped. And since i live the furthest shipping distance possible from California, i'm expecting it to be here by no later than.... Nov 4, 2009, no cancel that, hehe. Should be here by no later than march 20th, hopefully...