shizzzon

i dont have anything yet. The weather is restricting my movements, hehe so i project by April to May is when i'll be done. I'll buy everything at once and take a whole weekend to build n install it.

AHHH, Big Jon, how could you?!?!?!?! You let a mod find out about us!!!

well it depends... Are you going to be throwing the Bls through the window? Are you going to have them moving INTO the window while they play? It all depends on the install but besides being completely careless, there should be no way that you would have a problem. I'm going to be running over 4,000w in my 2door hatch and i don't have worries so you shouldn't either.

That's the way i just said. Remember that Audiobahn's subs are overrated so don't try to run more than an 1800w amp to this sub because the tiniest bit of clipping will cause what you are smelling. It also depends on how long you've had the sub. IF it's brand new, it could be excess glue. Turn it down just a little and play it like that for a couple weeks then return the volume to where it was. If it still does it, your overworking it thermally(too much power or clipping)

Those are D2s. run 1 wire from + on 1 side to + on other side. run 1 wire from - on 1 side to - on other side. You now have 1 + and - left on each side. Hook the + and - to your amp and when you go to connect it to your sub, you can hook the + and - to either side you want, it doesnt matter. The reason there are 2 + and 2 - on each side is so that you do not have to splice speaker wire together when wiring like this. They give you plenty of terminals so it's easier to do.

by default, shipping is free to the lower 48 states. I think, my assumption, that due to custom's fees, you may be quoted a slight fee charge.

I didnt know what to make the topic but u guys gotta see this. I plan on firing forward and came across this over at ROE and was shocked... Since by ear i am not going to hear low bass as good as if i fired back, and anything over 60hz is nonsense coming out of a sub to me anyway, am i reading that right? It sucks that they didn't have a BL in that test too but i am rather shocked at a comparison of the q to the btl with double the power difference. I'm still wanting a BL but i noticed according to this chart, right at Fs of the BTL, it drops its output by a noticeable amount. 10hz in either direction it picks it back up. I want a 10" bl but it resonates right around where the 12" BTL does. As you might be able to tell, i like loud as possible. I might have to go with 10" q's correct? My previous goal was 3 10" BLs off of 4,000w. But 3" 10 qs might be louder.

okie dokie

I'm just curious as to why the Universal option isn't on the subs by default? It doesn't cost any extra money, yet i do not see any disadvantages of having it done to a sub even if you do not want it. So... is there any disadvantage of having it even if someone doesn't want it?

someone must have been naughty. I'm takin a break right now, this is day 3 of sound deadening. I'm lucky it's warm enough to even look outside.

The mods should make us virtual sales reps and any others who help, hehe.

Lol, alright LISTEN UP PEOPLE- From here on out, if I say anything that ends up being false, i'm blamin it on a mod, hehe

my plan is a lot bigger than 1 15

in the future, if you have no upgraded electrical yet, dont let the lights dim until you get an upgrade.

i just noticed mods can edit their posts without it saying that it was edited... That's not fair. I'm tellin Mom! I'm definitely leakin that chit!

no, there really are ways to find out beforehand. One is what you are doing now, research and asking questions. Think of it this way. Fi is an internet only based company. Users come online to do research. They've heard other setups before and may have owned a few. This message board is home to a lot of companies. When you get this many people together all agreeing about how loud a certain sub gets it, you get interested. When you see that many people running that line of subs, that's interesting. When you go on youtube and see what they can do vs what other comparisons one has, that's the key to purchase. Every sub has a class comparison to an extent. I used to run Audioque. I am not changing because i don't like them, i'm changing because me vehicle is smaller and Fi's BL 10s require a smaller box than the AQs do. Everyone may have to change sometime but after being on this board for a while and researching what all is offered here, there's a bigger world out there after only focusing on whats at the stores. I was telling someone else this earlier in the week about how someone he knew was knocking on Fi because they aren't heard of in his area and that makes them a terrible company?!?! Things like that is what gets people made fun of but all goes to show those who are trying to learn just how uneducated these people really are about car audio, or any audio for that matter.

I don't like to argue, thats why i said do NOT look at a picture or just guess how someone has something setup and go off of that without facts. For one, you are talking about the WRONG setup. I am referring to the Escalade as what you had originally mentioned when you said 8 18s. 2nd, just because someone enters in a competition doesn't mean he set his equipment to win 1st place. He just wanted a number to go with that setup just like anyone else would if they thought their setup was loud. I have went to a comp before with 1 15 tuned at 29hz. No REAL competitor would do that, but i did! I still hit 144.3 db at 31hz on audiocontrol mic. Not everyone in comps is an extremist. Some do it for the numbers and fun, others do it to win 1st. Again, you are comparing 2 woofers in separate classes. You should be comparing the T2 to a 15" BL. Meade runs BTLs, far greater in output.

Ok, you are gonna make me spell out the obvious here- This is going all my manufacturer's recommendations on both sides- T2 - 1000wrms 87DB efficient RE on D2 - 1.8 EBP - Low, designed for Sealed applications mainly. Xmax - 19mm SD - 748 cm^2 18" BTL - 2000wrms(3000wrms fully loaded) 95.1DB efficient RE on D2 - 1.5 EBP - pretty high, over 120, designed specifically for Ported enclosure for even more output. Xmax - 16mm Stock, Xmax is increased when using HiXmcoil SD - 1210 cm^2 So far, i have covered the basics so let's see who wins this comparison- The 18 is 8 db more efficient, more cone area, handle 3x as much power, Re is lower than RF which means it can receive more power, larger xmax after Hixmcoil more excursion and suited for ported designs which makes it even more efficient. There is no way a T2 should be compared to an 18" BTL. They are not in the same class.

and no one can tell someone that an install is "wack" just because of a number. Steve Meade's design in the Escalade is NOT for competition. Steve Meade's design in the Escalade doesn't push the 18s to their limits Either! And as far as i know, that 15Kw amp doesn't output that power all the time, correct? doesn't it have to charge up to get that much out of it after a while? Oh and his setup, i'm sure, is tuned low due to daily driving. Don't get someone's opinion like that. That starts false rumors about products. Get the facts from the designer himself, not from a picture or a guess.

if you really need an answer to which is louder then you need to just stick to what you know(Rockford) before you up the ante in heavy duty equipment.

The 12 would still be louder. Multiple reasons. It's about 3db more efficient, that also has to do with because it has more cone area. going from 1000w to 1500w is only a theoretical 1.5db increase at best. 3 minus 1.5 is a number greater than 0 or a negative number so according to paper work, 1 12 off of 1000w is louder than 1 10 off of 1500w. you would have to literally double the output power of the 10 JUST TO get as loud as 1 12 according to paper. You are probably asking this because you are limited on space. I'll tell you what, give me your dimensions to where you can install equipment and i'll see what i can come up with. Also i will need yr make and model.

I like to think up things i haven't never seen done so let's get some opinions in here because i wanna see what people think how this would work - I don't feel like drawing a pic so i'm going to rely on your visualizations to see this box in your head. Let's take a 12" sub. Let's put it in a ported box at 2.5 cuft. Tuning... thats the interesting part. Ok, so build a box with 5 walls, not 6, 5. Leave the rear wall completely off. Now, let's say for quick number crunching, the box is as follows - (all external) 16" wide x 16" tall x 16" deep with no rear wall. Now, let's build another box with no sub cut out, again with 5 walls, not 6. Dimensions for this box is as follows - (internal) 20" wide x 20" tall x 20" deep. Put this box over the other box to where the side with no wall is on the same side as the sub. Now, we connect the boxes together using nothing but All-Thread! The result - a ported box for a 12" sub in 2.5cubes ported with a port that circles all the way around the sub in a square that is 4" wide all the way around. How in the hell can that be calculated and what on earth am i thinking would it sound like?

Unfortunately Orion has went retarded on rating their amps. I remember back when i was younger that they used to have comp amps capable of running @ 0.25 ohms, thsoe were the good ol days. Not too long ago, Orion came out with the XTR2400. That amp was a good amp to use. Then came the 2500D. While it did do it's job in outputting real power, some people had defective problems with them. I do not know why, may have been their fault, don't know. All i know is whe ni was reading about them, others were leading them away from Orion to other choices... now we have the 5000w amp... that's NOT 5,000w. If you read the description, it clearly states 2,500w. This amp is not comparable to a true 5,000w amp because it isn't a 5Kw amp. Sundown amps are very efficient and can output same power even at large voltage drop. If you stick to only known brands that local stores only can or choose to carry, then you will be missing out on the bigger picture and your other choices out there. With that advice he gave you, Meade should have never got those BTLs... Do your own research. You can decipher from doing your own research what sounds true and what doesn't. Someone saying other brands aren't wise to go with if they arent popular to him is not a wise statement. There could be a car company that starts out in Germany that may manufacturer vehicles that run off of air and get infinite miles to the gallon and start out at $5000 retail USD and only cost $10 a year insurance..... they could take over the world in vehicle manufacturing... but because they are new or no one had heard of them even though everybody is raving about them doesn't make them bad choice. Interesting example, huh? hehe I'd suggest going to www.the12volt.com and other message boards such as this one and doing your own research on companies and basics of car audio and come back here in a few months and see what view you have then.

if i did, i'd have to cut my amplifier power by half. Try to picture this if u can. This is the best setup i have drawn out so far so if anything new happens then... well that's irrelevant for right now. Powered by a Lanzar6000d - 4,800w@1ohm. with 5 HC600s in the back of the car side by side. Right in front the batts is the box, taking up the entire width, depth and all but 3 " of height in the entire hatch area. I've done so many drawing in CAD, if someone owns a Scion tC i can guarantee i can tell you a way to fit something if it's possible by now, hehe. When i drew a design with port back, i placed the batts in front of the box and had the subs facing up. But to give the ports room to breath after exiting the box, i'm lookin at only being able to fit 2 10s ported but i cant run that kind of power 2 10" BLs so i ditched the batts in that drawing and came out to like 2 10s off of 2,000w of power. It's a nice setup, indeed, but i've had setups like this before and know what they can do and want to do something different this time. When i go to order these subs in a month or so, i should just place one in a test box i have and face it ever which way i want and see what appeals to me. Another big plus with firing forward is less external vibrational noise. That saves in sound deadening headaches. And another plus is for show offs at local car clubs. I havent been to this one car club i normally went to in like 3 months. They know i'm workin on a new setup and they always love for me to stop by because i got the stereo on wheels to put in simply, hehe. The guy who runs the car club went to a couple comps but he's clueless in that field but he did it for fun anyway just to say he did. Me and him are buds and i want to build something that stands out. Something that just makes my mouth drop and i believe firing forward will dominate the 40-50 hz range since that's where most of the punchy bass comes from. I may not be able to hear it inside the car but on the outside, if the low end can be heard then that's just as good for the shows. But, I'll see when that time comes. When my car got broken into a couple months ago, they stole my vid cam. So when i get all this stuff installed, i gota go buy another vid cam to show you guys what has been built. I like to do plenty of vids and tests for myself to keep logs of what does what in what install so when i ever build another design, i know what all my other ones were like.