shizzzon

the larger the box, the more efficient the box becomes but can lower power handling mechanically if not careful. My last setup was 1 15 7.5cubes @29hz loved it.

I work at a warehouse. I can't wait to get this setup started. Been without bass for 2 months, I'm fiending! Hehe

Well, i am thinking the sub moved too much which caused damage to his sub, what are your thoughts? That's the whole reason i had stated what i stated. Even though sealed, you can still bottom out a sub if the box is large enough. Though at 0.4, maybe that's too large for that power... I do not know because i know nothing of this sub. No, it didn't break anything. It was just to show the force. me and my friend would try to move the box ourselves and all it would do is rock the car back and forth like you were pushin it from both sides. Then we let it play music and well, you see what happens.

i dont refer to things below 20 hz as music either. This track i made i'm sure goes below but RoE wouldnt let me post the full 16 min video. When i refer to efficiency, i'm referring to the efficiency of the electrical system, not the amp, sorry if u misunderstood me. And about impedance rise- This video above, DCR is 0.7 ohms. Typical resistance rise over frequencies around 2.2-2.8 ohms. Rise at peak (31hz) was 4.3 ohms. When playing music, rise is always present, i know you know this but a lot higher than DCR. I was able to drop rise down to 1.6 ohms but no lower than that in that box. Bass tracks are a LOT stronger than music. This is what i am referring to when talking about 20hz and lower. That puts stress on electrical system. I don't see a need in amplifying that range because it's... well i'll leave it there.

have you ever done any setups in a car over 1,200w of actual real power? When you say proper, are you referring to sound deadening? I got a vid on RoE of where i added my own bass lines to the entire Another Brick in the Wall song, all 3 parts joined then slowed down. All the bass mostly is very low. This is from an older install i had. Now, if you're referring to sound deadening, then yea i understand about how 20hz or any very low bass will sound good if the car doesn't rattle but you are talkin about a lot of product there. Here's the vid, this is violent shaking, watch the box itself, it has 15 3\4" bolts bolted through the floor. A LOT of pressure - http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Audioque/hd15.1.wmv

for the Noob's, using a SSF will prevent this problem because... the larger the box, the more efficient but generally the less power it can take without changing anything else. Most recent post - It will save on your electrical system the same way it makes the amp more efficient. If there was no SSF in use, then it can play frequencies as long as the amp can handle. Let's say the amp can handle 5 hz at it's lowest. Let's say that anything under 20hz is pointless to you because it starts rattle the hell out of your car and you hear more destruction than reproduction. That's wasted power. Let alone resistance rise may be very low in that range which would result in a lot of power draw. Not saying it would but can, depending on the box. Efficiency - Simple, the more narrow the frequency range, the better the amp will perform because it puts less stress on the electrical system. But back to the post, If you are not fluent with when to use more or less power, then please use SSF for all types of install. When setting up an amp, it is advised(this is what i do) to not only set the amp up non-clipped, but to all make sure that you never exceed the mechanical limits of the driver(s) by testing the frequencies at which will be sent to the driver(s). I use test tones for this so if they pass, anything will pass since they are recorded at the highest level.

I dont care what company tells you it's ok not to use a SSF, do yourself a favor and disregard that information. Regardless of what size box you use for a sealed box, even if it's 0.00000000000000000001 cu ft, Use a subsonic filter! It will not only prevent this from happening but will also save on your electrical system and keep your amp more efficient during playback.

i dont have anything except the deadening. What i am doing is research, That's why i am on here all the time. What am i waiting on? the weather here should be illegal for real. I am still sound deadening my car. I have\will have 3 layers of it everywhere but the headliner because... well my car is mainly all glass from the windshield to the rear hatch. After all the deadening is installed, i'll use this cardboard piece i have to make a cutout of my rear cargo floor. Then i'll put the information back in AutoCAD. I use AutoCAD to design speaker boxes so i know what will fit in a vehicle. It gives me a better understanding since i can see what i am working with. Then, i will drop the money for all the subs\amps wiring. I will hold up on the alt and all batteries. I install everything, set it up for maximum unclipped output, then comes the fun part. With a factory electrical system, there's no way it can power that. So... when i turn the stereo on, when the lights start to dim, I will attenuate the preout voltage on the stereo until the voltage problem dissipates. Then the alt will be installed. It will be between 200-300A, havnt gotten their yet but will be from Iraggi because i talked to him about it last year. Then i can crank the preout back up until lights start dimming again, then i save up for the batts. Now, i got the money for it easy, but i keep lots of money on reserve for unknown emergencies that may occur. What if i had to buy a car immediately... What if i had to move immediately, buy a home or rent out some place.... I got plenty of money for emergency situations but i do not tap into it because my life is more important than music. Car audio and computers are my hobbies, i'll do what i say i'm gonna do because i got vids of some setups on RoE. I just don't cut corners when it comes to loud. SecondSkin, that's who i contacted about sound deadening. I basically told him i was gonna have 3Kw worth of bass, how many layers do i need? He told me, i'm buying it in 2 sections. 160 sq ft of Damplifier 100 sq ft of Fatmat Extreme (mass loader, lays on top of Damplifier, but only on the floor and hatch floor) I still need to order- About 60 sq ft of Rattlepad About 60 sq ft of Overkill Spectrum maybe possible Sludge.... lots of it, very pricey. I don't want this car to rattle outside. I WILL take it to a shop if it's too bad of a rattle. I will also be side-firing my box to the passenger side so that should help some rattles in the rear. Just gotta double up on the side walls over there. Note - i just wanna say that SSaudio didn't tell me to order Fatmat, i had already ordered it and didn't wanna let it go to waste. Stuff cost over $200.

here's your post Bigjon! Al the replies that followed were - Alt? Haha. Anyways, let me get in here. I have done some research in the past, present, and probably the future so here's some info- Lanzar6000D is like a true 4000w amp. These are approx numbers. Performance mag did the test on this amp- 12.6v - 3,600w @ 1 ohm 14.4v - 4,800w @ 1 ohm I don't know the specs of the Lanzar 4000d but you wouldnt want to know anyway. The cost of the 4 to the 6 is close. The 4000d can be had for around $900 where the 6000d for $1000....wow only $100 difference... The Lanzar 2000D is an interesting one. I have always told people that I believe this amp is the best budget amp out there, or at least that i know in terms of performance to cost. Specs - 180A worth of fusing... gotta be able to do something right? well, it does! Tested by CA&E - 13.8v - 1,600w @ 1ohm 1,940w @ 0.5 ohm(Completely stable and stated by the manufacturer. Rare stable load!) Cost - can be had for $350 Also, strappable - 4,000w @ 1ohm at 13.8v = $700 However, if you could get the Sundown 3000d for what bigjon got his for, you "might" be able to pull more output from that Sundown. That's a guess though. That sundown from some test i've read can output great power at low voltages if your system was lacking in that area. And when you say cost, haha, my setup is expensive that i am planning- Subs may change or may not but here it is for what i know- Sound Deadening - $1,000 3 10" BLs - $900 Sub amp ~ $700-$1000 Factory speaker replacement - $550 Amp to power them - $350 Alt - $550 Batts ~ $600 Wiring\terminals\blocks, etc... ~ $500-700 That should do it.. oh yea one more thing - The stereo - $720 Docking GPS - $550 Why did i get GPS? so i can see where i'm goin, it's too blurry with that bass.... Well, i might have exaggerated a little... ok that was a lie, but Alpine's Blackbird GPS is awesome.

If i calculated right, i'm getting 41.5hz tuning and looks to need the subsonic filter set right above 30hz if giving optimal power. Anything more and the filter needs to be set higher. I got 1.99 cubes per sub, 0.14 displacement for the sub and 0.527 displacement for the port per chamber. That comes out to be 1.8 cubes per chamber exactly. That port seems VERY small for 800wrms. If you were to crank the volume, does it sound like it stops getting louder at a point that you think it should still be getting louder?

well, if ya got a lot of power, i'd hope for a 150. I made vid of SnoopDan in KY breaking 150 with 1 Massive Audio 15 off of a 4000w Visonik amp. He was tuned in the 40s with a 4-6cuft box cant remember. He uploaded the vid to RoE that was taken at the Carl Casper Show.

when you go to post them in the For Sale section if you do or havent already, make sure you take pics of the spider and the leads on both sides. This will show people if you have abused them or not. Another little thing that some buyers like is having a live DMM reading on the coils showing that they are operational.

car--- 1988 Ford Crown Vic electrical --- 200a alt, 50a at idle. Stock Duralast battery amp--- Cadence ZRS 10 subs--- 1 Audiobahn Immortal 15" D2 The Original series box--- 7.9 cu ft 160sq in of port tuned to 29hz mic---Audiocontrol tone--- 31Hz score---144.3 Outlaw @ 2000rpm Metered on the dash

i'd retest your meter then reconnect the probes. Touch probes together and make sure you are getting 0.0 ohms before applying them to the terminals. IF your meter is properly set right, you may not be getting a good enough connection to the terminal. The tip of the probe reads the best, that or the ring around the tip. You may even wanna try putting the probe in the terminal like it was speaker wire and see if that helps. When you say 1.1 to 1.4 on one coil, it's impossible for the resistance to drop below it's lowest rest state so it's got to be a lot of resistance between the terminal and your probe(s). Make sure both probes have equal connectivity as well. IT sounds like they are D1s for sure though.

yea but you are not stressin your amp. 0.7 ohms is the lowest typical 1ohm nominal load used today. Sundown's owner gave examples of what one person did then i read what the owner, himself, uses which by far is greater than what i can fit. It "might" work but i do not want to take the chance. I am going to be running 3 subs. Three subs is complicated enough just to wire, let alone the possible configurations are somewhat bad... 3 D2s are 0.93 ohms. That's my only configuration possible, heh. If I was running an even number, it'd be totally different. I'd have an HC1400 and 5 HC600s which according to Kinetik should supply 4,400w of power + a HO alt minimal 200A. I know i've already posted that before but again, i'd just rather not risk it.

thanks for info... You run 3000d, i might as well just use that instead of strapping 1500s together and risking it. my vid cam got stolen 2 months ago so after i buy all my gear for the car, gotta go get another vid cam just to have vids of my install.

from Talladega Nights? "I'm on Fire!!"

hey, what VCs do you have on your BLs? D1s or D2s?

oh i know u dont warranty them anymore like that. 0.5 ohm is anywhere between 0.35 - 0.6ohms ... I don't clip amps and would have 100ah in the rear and 80ah in the front... I'm still leary about it cuz i see you and this guy run larger capacity batts for the power draw then what i am wanting to do. I might just skip the idea.

daily vs comp - daily, the gap is larger comp - the gap is very small meaning only 1 frequency should be played at a time, no music. It also helps, i think with efficiency, with a tighter gap. I know it helps you out in comps somehow, hehe.

you say a little, what do you got yours wired at 0.7? IF that's true then you have no worries because that's normal for a 1ohm stable amp. 0.7-0.9 is normal for a 1 ohm load. I'm talking about running each 1500d at 0.35ohms DCR resulting in 0.7 ohms strapped. Rise should be a guesstimate at it's lowest around 0.7 per amp. Again, i don't wanna know if it'll work. I know it'll work because Sundown has already proved that. I wanna know is it possible to get it to stay working without damaging the amp? I don't want to stress the amp even if it was fed 13v+ every second. I just wanna know if it will eventually fail from stress because no other amp i have ever played with has stood it's ground for more than 20 minutes below 1 ohm and voltage above 11.5v

i dont know if u seen my post on this topic already as ou already started one post about this before. I NEED to know what you want the box tuned too. Without that info, i can't begin.

:lol2: :lol2:

sounds fine too me. Basically, if you're bumpin with that while driving and your lights are still dimmin bad, then the alt isn't strong enough. More batts may eventually be a bad thing because if there are too many in there,who knows how long it would take the alt to charge em all plus run the stereo. So, if that's the largest, then you should be fine. For your own good, check the voltage on the odysseys every once in a while with vehicle off to make sure they are gettin charged properly.

For those who know what 2Girls1Cup is, enjoy And now Smiley's turn -