shizzzon

oh and when you say too compicated, hehe, it took 3 days just to do my alarm system. then on the 4th day i had them install the security film. That took about 5 hrs just to do the driver and passenger door and 2 small windows behind it. Security film by ACE is thick.

well i got robbed right across the street from the police station so beat that, haha. happened 2 months ago. So, i had to drop $2000 for a new security system. Yes, $2k. I don't play when it comes to money. Viper 5900 series with prox sensor, tilt sensor, 2 external sirens on battery backup, 3 internal peizo sirens, 2 additional internal sirens (same as the outside sirens), Ace Security Security film 3 Ply. It's gonna take a gang of thugs to steal anything out of my car now.

hey man gots a question. Noticed you got that amp mounted on top of your box. Do you have anything under it preventing it from rattling inside?

i believe the term"faster" that you are referring is "Group Delay." The lower the group delay, the less muddy the bass sounds. A subwoofer's transient response is effected by the group delay. The lower the group delay, the quicker a sub can recover from one frequency and start playing the next one. Of course in ported boxes, group delay is a LOT higher than sealed, this is why sealed sounds so controlled.

you can try this- Besides the theory that your amp(s) may be set wrong, i just got done reading about these amps and try and see if this helps- unhook one of the 2 + speaker wires going to each amp. I see that you ran speaker wire to both positive terminals on each amp. Try only running 1 positive run to each amp leaving 1 positive terminal on each amp unused. It is stated that the amps are bridged internally and that running it like you have it is not necessary.

i've never heard of multi drivers are worse than 1 larger one.... time to get the facts straight in this post, hehe Ok, surface area for a 15 should be around 176.7 sqin It would take 4 8s to reach about 201 sq in. Now, that means 4 8s may have more cone area, but 4 8s probably will not be able to take the amount of power 1 15 can take. Also, depending on the 8s, their maximum excursion may not be competitive to a single 15 either. 8s also tend to get their best performance at 1.0 cuft ported whereas 1 15 usually should be at 4cuft ported. Now, this means that you may have to build a larger box because you will probably need more than 4 8s to compare to 1 pretty decent 15. Now, if you build a larger box, then compare that box to a box larger than 4cuft for 1 15 as well... The box for 1 15 will now be more efficient and power handling may decrease only if you do not properly crossover the lower and higher frequencies properly to prevent over excursion. So basically in my opinion, you need to find 4 8s with their summed rms rating greater than 1 15 that you are comparing to and this will be hard! If you are comparing to 1 15 at 1000wrms, you may need 4 8s 300wrms... And like someone else has already said, it's an 8, pay attention to the playable frequency range because it may lack low end response.

let a shop do it for you, if you are really close to KY i'd do it for you. Just remember if you let a shop do it, make sure they have an o-scope and ask them what the max clean volume is after they have set it up.

well, since no one actually knows how well it would hold up, i went ahead and backed the height off a little. Instead of it being 3.5" away, it's 5.5" - 8" away depending on how i build the enclosure.

to be honest, the way this guys voice is when i asked him all this, i wouldnt be surprised if his is 90% beer, 1% equipment, 1% install, 8% liquor...

sounds like you dont have enough power to get one. And thats not covered under warranty!

well, i'm tryin to run a box with 3 subs in 2.7-3.2 net with .91 port displacement. I just divided it by 3 and gave the number to ya.

at least you got one... Last place i worked at, all the girls were either married or gay... I was the ONLY male guy that worked that shift unless the supervisor was there but we were buds so we just played around with everybody. ///M5 - I'm surprised your not hovering over the toilet just wasting it all back out.. Man, that's a helluva lot of liquids! But i know what u mean about feelin like that. When i get hungry, i usually eat 3 cans of chicken noodle at a time. Gatorade, Hi-C's Fruit punch, Orange juice with food and of course just any non carbonated 12oz canned drink. OH, i remember buying a pack of minute maid lemonade one time when i was sick... haha, i drank those things in 2-3 gulps a can.

did you read that somewhere on this site at sometime? I don't know.... is it time to joke yet? If BP were to stand for Big Power... then BR stands for Big Resistance because i don't see it being better. But seriously, how long ago did he mention this option?

ok now come on... Yes, i gave the guy 1cuft NET to go off of because i already knew that the port displacement per sub would be .2 - .35 cuft at 32-33hz If you go tuning at 12hz in 1 cuft.... i don't even feel like seein how long the vent would need to be and be able to fit that in the car. It look like a snake wrapped around the car.

when i need to backup information that can be stored until i die, Verbatim's Gold Archival grade is considered the best. The best is used in terms of gold archival, not just Verbatim. There was a government document i read a while back when researching storage backup choices and when i was reading about this technology, it states that gold archival discs minimum life is 75yrs and can go up to 250yrs depending on how they are stored. They are only sold in 50 packs and can be had for under $80 a pack. These are single layer DVD discs. As for external drives, it depends on how much data you backup at a given time and how long is it stored on there before removal? If it's less than 16gb, get a flash drive, lot more convenient. There is now a 32gb MC card out now so maybe that will come to flash soon. For convenience, 2.5" externals are the fastest ways of plugging them up, however they are a little slow and a lot more expensive but are more durable as well. 3.5" externals must be plugged into surge bar every time it needs to be used. It cannot take lots of abuse because these drives were meant to be stored in a desktop only. So lots of vibrations can kill it. These drives are a lot cheaper by the GB and can be serviced by yourself easily as well. IF it were me, i'd go with 3.5". It's the same drive as probably whats in your pcs now, just dont throw it around or drop it and it should last a long time.

yes, loud street beater. I've never ran Sq subs, i've heard them but particularly like loud better, but loud also involves being in the right enclosure as well. I went back over by drawings and came up with these 2 volume choices - 3 10" Icons in a 3.2 cu ft box ported at 32hz 2kw of power, HO alt, 1 HC1800 as starting battery or 3 10" Fi BLs in a 2.6 cu ft box ported at 33hz 3-4kw of power, HO alt, HC1800 + up to 5 HC600s This is also a money thing too. Play smart, not stupid. The 2nd choice would run an extra $1,500. I just don't know if it would be that much potentially noticeable to the ear. I don't know how well the BLs can perform in 0.86 cubes per driver. As you can see, i want it to drop low so it would still have to be able to drop in that small of a box. In past experiences, i've been happy with metered power between 25-31hz as low as 129db in cabin reading. Although my last car i had, i did 144.3 at 31hz, outlaw on the dash. That was wicked bass. The difference in setup- 1 15, same 15 just different box 131.2 db recorded at 31 hz in a sealed box 144.3 db recorded at 31 hz in an 8cuft box ported both off same amp. BIG difference. I will always stay ported, i like it loud at the low end. I know the Icons can get deep in that design i laid out, just don't know if the BLs can in that box

you gotta remember that the guy said it was impossible to do it with a 10 in 1cubic foot or less. Also, not every sub can reproduce the low end range as well as others. Take into account drivers who are more geared toward the upper midbass range, whether it be comp only subs or some midbass drivers, they will not be able to produce the low end properly.

yea, this is a tough one for me. The icons will have more volume, = more efficient. The BLs will be right in the middle of their recommended enclosure but are given more power. The icons will actually be in about 3.3 cubes, not 3. Because the power given to the icons would be far less than for the BL choice, there would be less turbulence, meaning smaller port area, smaller displacement.

ok, if i went with the more efficient choice off of 2kw, then Icons. If i went with more aggressive power, Fi BLs

i throw the sundown as an option. According to Kinetik, with that amount of batt plus whats up front, i could run 5,000w of power under their recommendation. I say 5 hc600s because ae small enough to fit the width of my car. I really am somewhat lost on which design to go with here. It's for a scion tc so it'll be ridiculously loud. I did have 1 AQ 15 sealed(even though i wasnt suppose to) off of 600w actual power and that thing was loud but i know i can do better, i just dont wanna make the wrong choice.

reason i post is because i have a choice - I have a small space to do my box in - 12" high x 21.25" deep x 36" wide (42" wide if i went sealed but ported is more efficient) I have 1 of 2 choices- be more efficient and run 3-4 10" Icons or Fi's ported in a 3 cuft box off of 2kw, 1 battery up front. or... be more power hungry and run 2-3 10" subs ported in 2.7 cuft box off of 3-3.5kw with 5 HC600s (gotta go with small batts due to space) See the dilemma. The first choice is a LOT more efficient, less cost. 2nd choice is louder and about $765 extra

when designing a setup, when is it required to have more than 1 battery in the vehicle? If you have an alt capable of supplying the entire demand of current, let's say for a sundown 3000d, would you not need any extra batteries? Extra batteries are more like a voltage stabilizer while the vehicle is running, correct?

he could have meant there is no 10 that "they carry." But he never said that so... you know. Oh, i never told you guys what he suggested. He told me the only thing that would work for me is Alpine Type Rs. ...i've never ran anything that is "oh so popular". I hate that.

dont use EQs anymore? Wow, i guess amps just come out of the box winning already.

i'm installing 170 sq ft of sound deadening in my car already. 3 layers everywhere. Anything else left over, multiple layers in the back.