shizzzon

i'm lookin into it

ok, well thanks man. Just gettin a heads up on that little bit. Now, gotta go reply to my other thread u replied on, lol

was that ported? what sub was that? And again, see, i knew he was retarded.

ok i'll go ahead and post the story about the eternals. This is one of 2 reasons why i will never own Audiobahn again. These 2 subs were wired down to 0.9 DCR on a Cadence ZRS10. I wanted to do a field test and see if Audiobahn rates the thermal power handling properly or not because i hate lies. You get a BAD rep if you overrate your equipment. Eternals are rated at 900wrms. I threw on a 35hz test tone and let it burp. These test tones are created by me at 0db amplitude. Amp is guaranteed not to clip. Metered distributed power to each sub is 334w of power. These test tones were generated to play 60 full seconds. So i started- At 47 seconds, sub number 2 started to severely smell so i attenuated the sound then paused. Sub number one did not have a problem. It got a little smelly but that's it. Sub number 2 got extremely smelly, cannot handle as much output power now because if it moves too much, it starts to pop or move erratically in a weird manner. Only receiving just over 33% of their rated power non clipped... The old immortals, same way. Rated for 2000wrms, haha yea right. Now, i give it that it could take 1000wrms all day but not 2000wrms. Slight clipped signal at approx metered power of 1150w at 50hz for 3 minutes, fried both tinsel leads. Other reason about AB is the last sub i ever bought from them, i was jammin on a 1000wrms rated 10, giving it about 400-600w actual power on a song. All of a sudden, the glue around the spider came unglued and the sub jumped out of the gap and slammed back down... it got messed up obviously. Overrate their subs and don't use enough glue. I'm done.

I was at my local shop today. Now, this shop is pretty popular around town. It's a small shop but a lot of 1st and 2nd place bass race and spl comp guys come out of this shop and compete at Carl Casper. There show room is flooded with trophies right now so you would think that they have a LOT of info in the audio world. While i am researching for the best subs that would meet my application, i was just curious as to what they would suggest me. They sell off the top of my head - Alpine, Soundstream, Powerbass, JBL and a couple others but nothin bigger than them that i remember. Anyways, i asked the guy if he could recommend a 10" sub for a ported box that would do well in no larger than 1 cubic foot NET that is rated for 750-1000wrms. Answer - That sub does not exist. um what? The smallest your gonna get a 10" sub in a ported box is 2cubic feet! I also asked him for one that can get pretty low. He said 10s cannot get low in terms of - no 10 can hit 20hz in the world! I told him as long as it could go down to 26hz would put a smile on my face then i told him about Fi's Q10. He said, companies can post whatever specs they want but no 10" sub can drop that low for ya. I don't like arguing with audio reps so i just said thank you and left but i know for a fact that's crap because- I used to own 2 Audiobahn Eternals(i got a story about those if someone wants to hear that) ported in 1.2cuft boxes and they dropped LOW. I used to play 25hz test tones on them and they picked up just fine so i know that was a lie. Well, i know i get more knowledge on here and other boards than in person... that is sad.

OMG! i cant do it then, i quit! Ok, maybe i'll give a timeline here. I've never owned a hatchback before so i dont know what to look or hear for generally over time. Is it possible that the rear window may need to be replaced once a year? Now, i know that there isn't a yes or no to that but what i mean is like, i know the window wont crack or shatter but the adhesive holding the glass may start to give away over time. this is an 07 so it's pretty strong on there right now. I just really want to check and see if i should lower the height of the box or not. I raised the height to get my desired volume. If i lower it, it will be 8 inches from the glass and i will change from 2 12s to 2 10s. I don't have anything yet, i'm still graphing in AutoCAD. Well there ya have it, whatcha think

Before i start, go ahead and go to youtube and search for HDC3, there are already some videos of them in action. I thought since nobody had any info on them that i would share what i have been told from the guy himself. If you thought the old HD3s were loud, ...haha get ready. There has been reviews about people doing direct swaps from HD3s to HDC3s and gaining, not loosing, gaining Dbs (not noticeable by ear, but by meter). So, what to expect out of these? The Fs rating on these subs are high, why? The Parameters for these subs were taken fresh. Have not been "broken in" yet. The suspension is still stiff as hell. When an HDC3 is broken in, the Fs drops approximately 8-10 hz, which can be lower than the original HD3s! Can they handle the lows? After they are broken in, they can handle the lows just fine, If you have experience with the original HD3s then you know how low they can go and still be crazy loud. Just remember, they WILL get louder the longer you play them and get that suspension loosened up. What size box? Ported only, EBP is off the chart The HDC3s can be ran as follows- 10" - 0.7 - 1.5. 1.0 is preferred to be the smallest recommended. 12" - 1.8 - 2.5. 2.0 is preferred to be the smallest recommended. 15" - 2.8 - 4.0. 3.0 is preferred to be the smallest recommended. 16sq in of port per 1 cubic foot recommended. 14sq in of port is the SMALLEST recommended per cubic foot. Power handling - Rated at 1000wrms I was informed that this rating should be Strictly followed if you do not have the proper tools to setup your amplifier(s) properly. If you do not know if this is you, you must have or know all of the following knowledge. If you do not know or have everything below, STICK with the rating of these subs. Oscilloscope Ammeter Digital Multimeter You must know how to use the tools above in the following manner- Must be able to use oscilloscope to fine tune your entire frequency range without clipping. Must be able to measure amperage and voltage output from amplifier to determine correct wattage output at any given frequency. (this is to properly setup it's thermal limits) Must have your subwoofer configuration wired to your amp properly without going below the amps lowest rated ohm load. Must be able to RETUNE your setup after using an oscilloscope to test mechanical limits and lower your output power if necessary to prevent damage. Must know when to use small vs large enclosures with the amount of power you plan to use. This list may sound ridiculous but for your own good, this list of information is what i gathered as just a summary of things you need to have\know so the NooBs vs the Experienced can be deciphered to give the proper information. If you know or have all of the following above, PM me for the actual power handling specs of these subs. It is not recommended that it be posted publicly because the manufacturer did not want to have lot's of returns due to improper installation. If you are wondering what these subs compare to, here is my opinion- Fi - greater than BLs, subpar with the BTLs DD - 9500s is probable.

in a hatchback, anybody personally experienced a setup where the subs were within 3.5" from the glass producing over 2,000w of power? Is there any danger or am i worrying too much?

I have a lot better success in making 1 single run with the port if i side fire rather then fire back. I prefer not to have to bend the port(s) is why i am asking if there is anything "off" sounding to this. My max square dimensions in cargo area is - (for this height) 42" wide x 12" high x 24.25" deep. If i were leave a 7" gap in the width to allow air to escape out of the box and shoot up towards the car, i would then have- 35" wide x 12" high x 24.25" deep. At the very back of the box on the side, i would, for example, have a 10.5" high x 4" wide port. I'm assuming i should have it as far back in the car as possible when side firing. If i choose to side fire, should i make the box as far deep as possible? Meaning make it the whole 24.25" deep so i can fill in the remaining cargo volume as best as possible? subs are facing up by the way.

hehe, Iraggi told me over the phone he makes a 300A for my car. I know what the price is and everything. He also stated that he(well... at the time anyways) also had the only alt for the scion tc that would not throw codes due to the ECU controlling the voltage itself. I know i can get it, but i gotta get in depth specs on it and how safe is my car with it?

Iraggi makes one for my car but it is not listed on the site! I've talked to him about it a year ago but that was just to see if he made one... he does. But that's all i know. And as far as i know, no one has one that large on a scion tc i might have to take that smile off because i still might not go that high.

Fi, DD, MTX That is the order, in my opinion, for strong SPL usage from best to worse. for music quality - (my opinion) MTX, DD, Fi The Fi and the DD comparison is not fair. They are 2 different classes. Now, if you compared the BTL to the 9500 or 9900, then it be different. You could always compare it to the Z!

well, i can't go with a dual alt setup because there is no room and we all know the bigger the alt, the better but when is it too much? If it's really only like 6 hp then that isnt nothin if it's true. I would be using the same alt as Meade has on his tahoe. Actually, he has 4 now but still it should be the same size case. I was unable to reach Ho-alt, ohio generator, excessive amperage and iraggi alternator on the phone today about the 300a alt question and about it fitting my car. I'll try calling them all tomorrow.

this came from Zena - # Is your engine large enough? For example, if you are driving your alternator with a diesel engine, and assuming adequate flywheel mass and a 3:1 engine drive pulley to alternator pulley ratio, a high efficiency, high current, 12V alternator will require about 1 hp per 30 amps of output power + about 1-2 hp for engine operating/muffling loads -- when operating at its maximum rated output current. Therefore, for a 150 Amp alternator, operating at full output, the expected diesel engine load would be about 7-8 hp. If using a gasoline engine instead of a diesel, with a slightly lower 2 to 2.5:1 drive ratio, figure on a requirement of about 1 hp per 15 amps of output power + about 1-3 hp for engine operating/muffling loads -- i.e., 11-14 hp for a 150A alternator. # Is your charging system large enough to provide a proper load for your engine when being used only for charging at an appropriate engine operating speed? For example, if you are driving your charging system with a diesel engine you want the system to provide enough load so that the engine will be operating within its normal operating parameters (average alternator load when charging between 20-80% of engine's rated output power at the speed chosen for charging). Operating with too small of a load, for extended periods, can contribute to greatly accelerated engine wear. ALSO, operating at too low of an engine speed (regardless of load effects) can be bad for your engine -- carbon deposit buildup, poor cooling, lack of proper lubrication. We recommend that the minimum engine speed used for high amp charging be kept well above the point at which full engine oil pressure is produced and/or above the point at which full cooling system function is realized.

OK, i've been doin research on this and i can't get a hold of excessive amperage or Iraggi so maybe someone on here may know. I had planned on running a Lanzar 6000D with an Alpine PDX 4.150 300A iraggi alt with HC1800 and HC2400. Well, i've been doin some research on alts and it said once you reach 300A alt case size, it is extremely large. In order to have adequate cooling, they are normalls about 12" wide by 18" long! There is no way that could fit in there without doin some extensive re-running of the AC lines, but Iraggi makes alts this high which is odd. I drive a 2007 Scion tC by the way, 141hp dyno-ed stock auto, 161hp at the crank. Ok, it is also true that for every 150A of output, the engine loses 11-14HP. That's a lot for a 300A alt AND for a 4 cylinder at that. I talked to my alt install guy about it and he said that the engine should not stall even at idle but does not believe a 300A alt can fit and neither do i. I continued researching and found out that that kind of loss of HP severely puts excessive wear on the engine. I do not know if it does this while on idle or just at any time. Can someone elaborate on all of this? It's makin me wanna downgrade to a 200-220 at the max and just run a 3K amp instead. But while i'm thinkin about it, i may not even be able to do that due to the amount of current one can pull.

well lets see, watch what happens!! 2 Dual 4ohm subs- Parallel then series version- each dvc4 becomes 2 ohm series 2 2ohm coils to achieve 1 4ohm. Series then parallel version- each dvc4 becomes 8 ohm parallel 2 8ohm coils to achieve 1 4ohm So, for this example, no difference.

Morpheus He told me i was the one.

that's still a great voltage reading at output.

i have no idea how they would know what it's tuned to? I know that isn't like the Wicked One box but i was confused with that design too because the port area changes as the length increases. I'm sure it get's through your desired frequency response nice and smooth doesn't it? All those type of designs do that i have heard people talking about.

As soon as i seen what sub you were using... no wonder, hehe. Did you use 2 1500ds? If you did that's a great score for the power. Hey, take some wrap and wrap your box like you do your amps for your SPL box.

then you could buy it for me,

Actually it is a Fi problem. Their subs are so powerful that nobody has enough money left to purchase alts 'n' batteries after spending thousands on amps.... Ok, instead of downgrading your alternator then changing the way the car idles, why don't know reinstall the ho alt again and take it somewhere and have them get the right belt for it on there. It sounds like you need a different belt for that alt.

no, what i'm saying it that amp is only good it you want to power some co-axials or components. For higher powered applications such as subwoofers, it doesn't deliver what today's subs can do unless you are looking for the lowest entry line possible out of a company. Lanzar's optidrive line is the only line worth getting for subwoofers. You there are a couple more models that aren't in that line but to keep it easy, that's their only good line. You can't really damage a sub regardless of how low the output power is unless you start physically breaking it's mechanical or thermal limits which is almost always caused by clipping.

Those specs sound like an SPLW 15. Dual 1 ohm i take it? If that is what sub this is, they are not for the quality people, that's for sure. I gotta go, i'll be back in a couple hrs. From what i remember, these subs like to peak where you tune them and that's it. I believe the SPLws and the PA MOFOs were just like each other. But i'll find out for sure in a couple hrs.

with that fuse and it being class a/b, you'd be lucky to output 500wrms. I say 300-430w. If you pop the fuses, you went into clipping...