shizzzon

How loud will his be, haha. No but seriously - I was considering purchasing the 6000D because i can get one for only $100 more than the 4000D. I was going to use the 4000D for these 3 10s but hey, why not go with this one, you know? I am not going to deliver that much power to these subs, that is the point to this topic because i will not have the battery power to support the 6000ds potential. The question pertains to the BL's cooling option- Fi says as long as you do not burp the subs then the cooling option is fine for daily. I am planning on setting the amp up to output a real 4,500w(peak spikes) as if i were to have no voltage loss. Sometimes i show off setups using bass tracks and it makes me wonder if i should avoid the cooling option... but if i do, will i not be able to use this much power?

Kicker's manual states if you are looking for low bass, you need 3.25 cu ft PER sub. That's 6.5 for your pair plus sub displacement, port displacement and wood thickness. Do you have about 8-9 cubes of space available? If so, you gonna need more than 1 sheet.

Do or Do Not, There is No Try.

Has anyone tried this when they were bored or may just know what happens if you take a ported box and install 2 ports in the box, one tuned to let's say 30 hz and the other at 45 hz. I'm just curious as to what happens. Does the box react as if there is a major air leak? Do the port's tuning medium come into play and output a tuned frequency of 38hz for this example?

20ft run cost about $165. Yes, you read that right. Reason - 1/0 wire has 4,xxx strands; 3/0 wire has 6,xxx strands. 2 1/0 wires has 8,xxx strands. So why buy 3/0? it's smaller therefore can fit in tighter places. Oops, forgot to tell ya where i got it at, got it at darvex.com

there is no gradual rise in power. You shouldnt be worried. I had it cut off only one time and that is because i was runnin about 1500w off of stock battery with the car off. Now, if you were driving (car on), again, a quick, rare instance that the voltage may dip too low would be just like a cd reading over a scratch. It would pause for a quick instance then start playing again. I use mine for safety of the class d amps. Even if they "claim" there is low voltage protection on the amp, it's like having an extra fuse there just in case.

Well, here's some basic info that the good ol' Calculator says - The following is based upon 300A worth of current. 18ft run using 1 1/0 wire - 1.09 voltage drop 18ft run using 1 3/0 wire - 0.686 voltage drop 18ft run using 2 1/0 wires - 0.545 voltage drop I didn't wanna run more than 1 1/0 wire in my new car from front batt to rear so i went ahead and bought Stinger's new 3/0 wire. I got it ran but havent got the batts yet so i dont know how many ft i'm actually gonna be using. the way i got it hidden probably gonna need the whole 20ft in my car. 3ft runs with 300A current draw - 1/0 wire - 0.182 voltage drop 3/0 wire - 0.114 voltage drop 2 1/0 wires - 0.091 voltage drop

you don't need to keep an eye on it like that all the time. That'd be like having a voltmeter for your regulator on the dash all the time just in that rare instance it went out... See if you can find a Cadence FH-8, or i also know Rockford made or still makes one but anyways, try and find you a SMART fuse block. What they do is they have a voltage selector on the block itself. I own 2 Cadence FH-8s. You can set it for 12.5, 12.0, 11.5v. IF the voltage running through this block drops below it's setting, the block will immediately prohibit power from flowing through itself until voltage raises above threshold. If it dips for split seconds, then the block will shut off for split seconds. The Cadence i know is very fast and responsive.

i'm assuming your batts are within a few ft of that amp? If it is close, for every extra run that close, you're probably only gonna see 0.1 -0.2 volt increase per pair. So, if you got 1, add one more to half voltage drop, to half again, you need 2 more runs, that's gettin pretty thick.

ebay

Well, i'm gonna assume he'll buy it new rather than used because i don't know what used subs go for so here we go - Fi SSD ($209) u better tell him to pick up the change on the ground for this one, hehe Alpine Type R MB Quart Premium Series Kicker Solobaric L7 Power Acoustik MOFO (i've never heard in person but have heard that these subs are geared more toward the 40-50hz range then the ultra lowend) Soundstream Tarantula T4 Lanzar Optidrive

you know, i always tend to look past the basics first, hehe

turn the gain down on the line driver just a little bit and try again. You may be outputting too much voltage to your amp. If the LD's gain is set exactly correct, then turn amp's gain down a little, but, i would turn the LDs gain down first.

if you are blowing fuses on your power line and not your amp.... then the fuse on your power line is not large enough. Also, playing right around your tuning frequency exhibits high impedance rise so playing 30hz would be a lot less stressful than 25hz. Playing anything below your tuning frequency usually causes lots of cone movement and playing notes approx 12-15hz above tuning as well. IF all those vids u made were playing right around tuning, then nothing to worry. See, think of it this way, how do competitors get over 20KW of power to each sub? There are lots of ways and tips such as- burping at tuning frequency causes the least cone movement, meaning you can push more power at that note as long as you know how to control the sub from overheating. Using an amp such as a JBL with crown technology will have the least potential of the speaker leads from catching on fire due to too much amperage... why? Because these amps, with the help of crown's tech, can output consistent power between 3-8 ohms, i believe is the range and if you hookup an ammeter and DMM to the amp, it shows a constant 8 ohm output regardless of real resistance. Short burps also have less potential of causing damage than longer burps. Trust me, it's normal if it doesn't move a lot around tuning. Your movement becomes greater below tuning and about 12-15 hz above it. Above tuning may differ from how the box is tuned but i usually tune ported boxes where u got yours tuned at and that's what i notice.

6-10 hz? I have never heard of any song going that low, that's purely inaudible as well. The lowest bass track i have goes down to 10hz and WAY before it even get's to that point, all you can do is feel the bass, not hear it. Anything below 26hz, in my opinion, is a waste of energy, hehe. In other words, i never let the SSF start below 26hz. regardless of how low tuning is. IT just doesn't sound decent... because there is hardly any sound, lol

you have impedance rise regardless of box design. I'll probably do what someone above said, get 3 dual 2s all in series, then parallel remaining connections. Only debate left is - final load is 0.98 ohms at rest, wondering what is going to make more power, a Lanzar 4000d or a sundown 3000D after rise...

i dont understand what u mean by clip out at medium power? Nothing should "clip" until you reach a power level higher than what you set it up for. IF you use an o-scope and setup your amp and it's set at let's say vol. 26. Once all tested frequencies are setup and do not clip... then as long as you do not change any settings and do not exceed vol 26 in this example, nothing will\should clip.

when you have 3 1 ohm coils left, when you start wiring all of them in parallel, the first two that are wired in parallel = 0.5 ohms leaving the last coil still at 1 ohm before it joins with the 0.5 load. so, ok, i was wrong... Well... thanks for the not-so-complicated explanation, hehe. I am looking at the Fi Qs, DCR is exactly 1.5. per sub. All 3 subs in series is 3 ohms each, 3 3ohm loads all wired in parallel results in an exact 1 ohm load. That's nifty. Now i gotta decide whether i wanna run 3 of them or 4...

I am not trying to make this complicated but from what i've been told in the past, you never want to wire 2 different speakers together of different resistance. Conclusion would be one sub would get more power than the other. "If" that's true, then doesn't that mean- For 3 Dual 2 ohm subs, if they were all wired in parallel, wouldnt one of the 3 subs receive less power than the other 2? My thinking - take all 3 subs, wired in parallel - 3 1 ohm coils left. parallel those, 1 0.5 ohm coil and 1 1 ohm coil, 1 ohm coil receive less power, correct? If this is true, if i want a 3 sub combination off of 1 amp at a 1ohm load, would i need 2 dual 2s and 1 dual 1 version? Wiring - wire both dual 2ohms in parallel-series resulting in a final 2 ohm load. wire the dual 1 ohm in series to also receive a 2 ohm load. Parallel these two connections to achieve 1 ohm. Is this necessary? I know that different voice coil configs have different properties but if they were all in a common chamber, i still shouldnt hear a difference if that's what i have to do, correct?

you shouldnt set an amp's gain via voltage only because you do not know what resistance it is currently at. Yea sure it might be 0.7 at rest, but what if you measured the amps at being 15a?, that's a 2ohm resistance. Properly set an amp up via oscilloscope. You can buy em at www.partsexpress.com I watched your vids, i do not recognize any of those songs but i would play some lower frequency test tones and see if it moves more. Also, what is your subsonic filter and LPF set at?

ok, from the last time i posted, i had been doin research and nothing came back telling me anything bad about grounding directly to battery. So... if there really is anything bad about it, maybe it's safety assurance knowing if the terminal were to come loose... bad things might happen. An assumption but only thing i can come up with. Oh and johnecon2001, you forgot to say after running amp(s) to unfused distro block, that the battery itself still needs to be grounded to chassis.

you can run power to the battery but do NOT ground to the battery. I had actually called 2 different car audio manufacturers about 3 weeks ago about this to confirm the right way of doing this. They both said- Run your power to your battery. You can use distro's as long as you use larger gauge wire when necessary to prevent a fire or lowest voltage loss. When grounding amps, never ground to the battery. Ground each amp SEPARATELY. Grounding more than 1 amp to the same contact point can cause undesirable results. They never told me what exactly nor did i really go into detail about that either. They did tell me though that you can ground multiple amps to a bar attached to your chassis as long as the bar makes contact to the car in multiple places. IT is also recommended to fuse in the following locations and not the following locations- Alt to starter battery - no fuse Starter battery to Aux battery - fuse within 18in of starter AND within 18in of Aux battery. Aux battery to amp(s) - fuse within 18in of battery(again). Note - even if your amps are fused on-board, it it still recommended to fuse in front of the amp. However, if your power wire is short, 3-4ft, i believe only 1 fuse between the amp and the Aux battery is required. Purpose for all fuses- amp to aux battery - to prevent extensive damage to amp if it were to start to smoke, fire hazard prevention. Aux to starter battery - 2 fuses there, help to prevent a fire possibly from happening that starts either at the aux or starter battery. Commonly caused by grounding the power terminal. Whereas it is true that fuses tend to slightly lower voltage throughput, i do not think it's that much of a problem for daily driver. Safety first.

I do have a major question? I seen that someone made reference to PSP, i have read on their site, klausaudio's site and subwoofer-builder.com(think that's the name) and none of these sites allow calculations for the amount of power going to be used!?!? These calculators help determine length but you must give the port area to do it. The problem i'm seeing is when I build an enclosure, I may only have just enough space for an optimal install. To gain NET volume, I have the option of going with flared port(s). Using box modeling software, i am able to see calculated port velocity and calculated port length by giving the software a port area just like with these other calculators.....but there is a difference. Air speed in the port does not flow slower just by increasing port area, or not just by using flared port(s), but also by decreasing output power from subwoofer(s). So... how can these calculators properly give me an appropriate port if i have to guess on the port area without seeing a port velocity graph? I am trying to do some research on if and how much a flared port can reduce port area requirement before you fall below a specified speed of air at a given frequency. For instance, one source says not to exceed 145ft\sec for daily driver or not to exceed 37ft/sec for SPL applications. So, let's say i don't wanna exceed 130ft/sec or i will have audible turbulence(theoretically). This software does NOT take into consideration that flared ports may be able to decrease the required port area based on the outer size of the flange(i guess because it would be too complicated due to angles and such). So, this software tells me for a 2.7 cu ft box NET at 35hz with 3,000w of power before resistance rise, I would need a port area of 41.25sqin but with 4,000w i would need 47.25sqin, 1,000w is 23.75sqin. You see how power is very relevant in these calculations for designs that need as much space in small spaces as possible. So... In this design i am doing, i need 41.25sqin of port area for this box. If flared ports decrease the required port area required,(meaning i can make a flared port that takes up less space in the box and still get the same results as a slotted port) how much do they decrease this requirement? Complicated question? I am very curious to know how small can the diameter of a flared port can be made to keep your DIY applications to fall within your personal limits of port velocity to retain as much NET volume as possible. I am also curious to know how I go about calculating the volume a flared port takes up? And no i do not have any measuring device methods such as filling box with water.

the port length shown for more than 1 port is the length requirement for EACH port, not combined length! Did you freak out, hehe? It does appear pretty long but that is what happens when using multi ports

I have to ask this... BKOLF04, what is the maximum port velocity before audible distortion is heard? I do not know this answer but I have been told not to exceed 145 ft\sec, although i tend not to go past 130 ft\sec. The 1.9 cuft design for 33 hz would need a port area of 26 sqin. The calculator i am using, however, shows no change in port velocity when changing from flared to flat ends, the only thing that changes is the length of the port. According to this calculator, a 4" flared port would yield a max port velocity of 276 ft\sec flared or flat using 1,500w of power. Is this calculator not calculating something or is this port velocity acceptable?