shizzzon

Your wiring and clamp tests seem to be extra sufficient. I actually idle like that too. Around 13.6-13.8v at idle. Now, you did mention 0.25ohm! 6,000w at 1ohm vs 6,000w at 0.25ohm is a big difference in efficiency. Your current draw must be ridiculous.. Back when i was running several 3500ds, i clamped one wired to 0.45ohms rising to whatever. It pulled 271A. Try and clamp your current draw fi u can.. hehe. I know it's hard with so many cables on the NS-1. What i would do is clamp each cable separately at like 30% volume and see what the Amperage differences are. Then you can clamp just one cable at full tilt and guesstimate what the other 2 cables pulled to give you a rough idea.

I am very very sneaky sir.

Something needs to be inspected then.. I am currently wired to 12K with a single 270A and 528aH of batt in the rear and i never drop below 13.3v at idle. Alternator kicks on at extreme low rpm, somewhere around 300 engine. Rated to do 160cold, 140 hot at 650rpm. I havent clamped it but it makes my engine sag when demoing at idle down to ~400rpm.

what kind of voltage are you looking at having? I used to run 21,000w with stock alternator and 2 batts. Voltage wasnt good though.. Need more info.

I guess i went extreme on my wall then. I usd the Lowes Premium grade wood screws that come with their own Torx bit. I use them on about 4-5 of the 8 mounting holes on the subs. The last holes remaining, i epoxied steel flat on the inside and outside of the baffle cut just right. It is then drilled, tapped then the wood drilled out. The same type of bolts 95honda suggested are then used to drive through the sub, wood and steel and secured. I then overtighten them with a nut on the back of every bolt, but be very careful. This technique can snap the wood so do not overtighten too much. You will hear the wood starting to crack when it's time to stop tightening.

I've been in the game for a while and either end of this year or next, i'll be open to swap for 4 new 18s. Evils is one of the choices right now.. Whatever i'd go with, they'd be ran on a 5500d but at 0.4ohm for 30sec. Now, i do not damage subs either as i test their abilities prior to competing but i'd say the Evil's could probably survive my install without any moderate attenuation which is a good thing.

Dude.. tell Senchez to quit postin vids n pics of last years slamology.. Everytime i see him do that, it makes me think i missed Slam 2013.

PA&E tested the 6000d a long time ago and it barely broke 4,000w on a typical 12v system. There's a reason why the 4000d and the 6000d were sold on ebay for only $40 difference when first released if not still... they almost do the same power..

not me.. I'd rather mod some michael bolton shit and listen to that in the parking lot of the hotel than be next to some nuts.

if someone brings a laptop, i'll bring one of our RTAs with me and we'll measure what your cabin gain graph looks like in one sweep in that vehicle at ear level. That will give you a visualization of what you are hearing. Keep reminding me so i do not forget to do this for slamology. and don't be shy either. Come find us.

Take that blow torch as suggested before and burn it. I have used the stuff and it will only work in horizontal planes mass loaded in multi layers.

it'll be moderate... nothing extreme like last time. I never drank with any of us together so that's why it got a little crazy.

Unlike past experiences, my need to impress with a drink guaranteed to black you out was proven last year.. From here on out, it's just time to enjoy and have fun.

many times on chrome that i know so far, embedded videos do not fit within the borders of the forum layout.

Guess i need to bring a change of clothes every hour.

Enersys makes Odyssey

odyssey doesnt make batteries.. They are not the source.

After years of research, yellow material tends to cause sulfation in the battery quicker than normal. The high quality outdoor vinyl graphic material the Diehards use prevent this type of premature failure to occur along with 3Ms high adhesion properties on the sticker coupled along with Sears warranty, Dekas can't stand a chance.

temperature change can alter the resonance of your vehicle by 1-2Hz.

Hmm, a Friday night beat-off. That's a sure fine way to get us interested now.

troubleshoot why it happened. You should own a DMM, Ammeter, battery charger. You may not need all of these for this scenario but you should own them regardless.

I'd say around 13,000w for my application. Mechanics would be a problem after that point.

Dude, you have a ship?!?! Awesome!

Ok, check this out- Four-Stage Charging System- patented Microprocessor constantly monitors battery voltage and automatically selects one of the four charging modes; BOOST, NORMAL, STORAGE or EQUALIZE. Patented Reverse Battery Protection- prevents converter/charger from being damaged if the batteries are accidentally connected to the charger in reverse.Over Voltage Protection- prevents high voltage spikes from damaging the converter/charger.Electronic Current Limiting- limits the output current to the maximum rating of the charger to prevent overheating and damage caused by shorts or excessive loads.Intelligent Cooling Fan- only runs as fast as required to maintain a more constant operating temperature inside the converter/charger. This feature reduces thermal stress caused by fans that cycle on and off.Programmable in the Field- to provide optimum charging profiles for lead-acid, gel-cell, or AGM batteries.Regulated Output Voltage- prevents AC Line voltage variations from being transmitted to the batteries and 12 volt circuits.Automatic Over-Temperature Shutdown- prevents converter/charger damage in the event the fan is unable to cool the charger due to inadequate compartment ventilation.Series or Parallel Connection- Inteli-Power Converter/Chargers can be connected in series to provide a combination 12/24 Volt system, or in parallel to provide more current.The PD9280 is a 80-amp Electronic Marine Converter/Charger that incorporates a microprocessor that constantly monitors battery voltage, then automatically selects one of four operating modes to ensure safe, rapid recharging cycles. The Storage Mode and the Equalize Mode of operation ensures minimum battery gassing and water loss while preventing battery stratification and sulfation. All Inteli-Power chargers are designed to meet the stringent requirements of the Marine environment and are UL listed for safety. A digital meter displays current, voltage, operation mode, blown fuse indication, and battery type. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Progressive-Dynamics-Inteli-power-RV-Converter-PD9280-/140910272136?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20cee81e88

Lol, well, i would have posted it but since i haven't looked at it in like 5 months, i forgot the name.. let me find it. I know all the specs so hopefully wont take too long to find. IT's basically considered the best AGM charger possible on this planet.