shizzzon

I seriously do not believe you cannot find a good ground in this vehicle. That means that you have virtually no stock electronics in the cab area? Yea right... Sanding paint off the inside takes all but 15seconds to do and Wala! For a SMALL amp, the BEST framed ground isn't no where near as crucial. Hell, you could almost ground it to the frame with about 30 paper clips.. Point being, if you've really tried several ground points inside and none work, i doubt it's the ground locations. Take the amp out, pop your hood, set amp somewhere safe. Run amp power to batt, ground to batt. Make sure power is FUSED. Take remote wire and jump it over to the power cable side and hold it there. Does your amp stay on or go off? If it stays on this time.. then i'd try disconnecting all speaker wire and RCAs from your amp FIRST where u got the amp right now in the truck and see if it comes and stays on. I

Yea, De-ionized water is non-conductive enough. Mineral Oil is non-conductive as well.

It is my understanding that you either need to measure using TRUE RMS everything or measure voltagecurrent AND the phase of each.

i got 20 more handy.. and LOTS more songs U need to let everyone know if they want more songs, to let me know so i can host them somewhere so they can update them their-selves.

Each port is NOT tuned to 32hz. The combined port area is tuned to 32hz. If you were to plug one, your tuning would go DOWN, not stay the same. "Taking away from the pressure levels" is too vague of a statement to comment on. Narrow down your question so it can be answered better.

SPL-Lab SMART Monitor can do this but i prefer you do not purchase this device solely for this purpose. Setting your amp to put out exactly on average what the subwoofer is rated at will more than likely destroy the subwoofer. This isn't a numbers game. It's a nose, ear and smell game. Now, if you want the simplicity of preventing your equipment from getting damaged at all, you can use the SMART Monitor and it will trip the entire car audio setup before trouble increases but purely just to set the output of the amp, pointless.

Steve, hehe, that is tricky. Not being able to brace the windshield and able to do a mid 160....That's a tough one. I know you're a music guy so i can't tell you to tune way high.. The lower the frequency, the more likely the windshield will crack from pressure. Only immediate thing i can think of is if it does, let the windshield break, then replace with Poly and an excessive amount of resin or CA glue as well. That should prevent releasing the windshield and cracking under pressure. At that point, just find out how to make it appear street legal and it should be good. Unless the rules specifically say no Poly windshields, i'd do it if it can be looked at as an original. Push the rules to their limits. Again, i haven't found a way to have them look street legal so this limitation is a tough one.

Ah, now there you go... narrowin it down to USACi legal, lol.. I do not know their rules but you would of course. Sounds like you already know about alot of this which is good. The key thing to remember in the vehicle is to reinforce everything that you normally never see reinforced. Or, reinforce everything that has resonance or vibration... everything. Some things are impractical though per rules.

You do not need concrete to do a 160+ off 1 woofer, lol. All you need is very rigid bracing. Us competitors here did a 156.x few yrs ago at the headrest, MECA Street Legal with a single 15" sub on 5,000w. Everything in the SUV was stock install, 1 rear batt, 180A alt. Nothing modded to vehicle at all. Enclosure was braced with Marble from Finland. That's just the enclosure. If we were in a wall class, we would of had fun. Concrete is just too messy and too permanent. Research the specs of concrete and compare it to other alternatives that can be used and yes, you will spend a lot more money vs concrete but the material will be adjustable, unlike concrete. In the distant future, i've been toying with a near 170 daily driver idea i've had for a while but would take a LOT of money to pull off. This may help your 165 idea. I have an equipment and mod list i keep here for future projects. It would have to be a truck, welded topper, Under-carriage plated steel for weight reinforcement. Upgrade suspension as best as possible. Install 14.4K Slam Bags on the truck. Install approx 85-125Kw of power for daily and flood the cargo with cone area. About 16-24 18s. Estimate added weight- 7,000lbs. Roll cage windshield bracing with triple vertical anchors. I've researched going Poly-C Windshields but have not been able to figure out a sneaky way to prevent from being ticketed for it.

My brother is there mostly for moral support. haha. I built this enclosure all by my lonesome except for the paint. You don't build paint? Who does?

i've messed with sealed enclosures before and i've never gotten one to extend the low end like a low tuned ported enclosure. And the excursion levels for the sealed enclosures weren't all that great either.

It goes against what the Q is made for, SQ. I would not get the Q with the extra spider, if you are looking at a Q with the extra spider you would most likely be better off with a bl. If he were planning on tuning it WAY LOW, i would opt for another spider or if increasing power.

because you do not have enough power and you are going to run a sealed enclosure which controls excursion better over the playable range vs a ported enclosure below tuning.

If it's who i'm thinkin you are thinkin about, there is no color pink on the dustcap

Hey Steve, i was readin back about when Julian was talkin about air ride shockwaves. Find a local air suspension shop in your area and tell them you want Slam Bags put on your car, just for the rear because of the weight. That is what i have on my car. They are the most durable AND one the cheapest air solutions out there. They are also sold practically EVERYWHERE in storefronts. Mine costs about $90 per Bag. They are rated at 2,500lbs per bag. Specs are- 400PSI Maximum fill capacity. 750PSI Surge capacity. I have about 2,600lbs of weight total in the back of my car and i still have not broke 100PSI yet and my ride height is VERY close to stock height. I got them installed(they are a pure custom installation so welding is mandatory), lines ran, schrader valves installed all for $600. You can use a portable maintenance air compressor(the ones with the flashlight on them) as they can handle up to ~110-120PSI safely and have a cutoff sensor on them that can be set manually. Portable compressors go for $40 or less. They just run off 12v cig socket. No tank, no additional hardware period. Good thing is less places for a leak to pop up. With this setup, the only areas a leak can form is under the schrader valve, inside the valve stem itself(unlikely), fitting between the line and bag, the line itself(if it were cut or ruptured), or the bag itself(defect, noticeable immediately or massive accident).

Better as in slow blowing? From what i've "heard", certain brands of AGU fuses are the best at moving the most current before blowing. I hate AGU fuses so do not use them. I personally use MIDIs because they are very cheap and now even come up to 300A per fuse. Big ANLs are about $3-5 a piece, ridiculously priced compared to MIDIs. If you are wondering why the price difference, i guess because there is more material in the ANLs. More surface area on the blades themselves but there is still plenty of surface area on MIDIs so no worries there.

For electrical in the future- if you keep the same vehicle, use battery(ies) instead of upgraded alt and purchase a new VCM when it comes out. It will have some features that will benefit your situation.

Like i said, if same efficiency, then same current draw, same output. That's how it could be same efficiency. lets take 800w. 800w @1ohm = 28.3v 28.3a 800w @4ohm = 56.6v 14.15a Both at ~84% efficiency, then same current draw, same output, The End.

well, when you say same efficiency, then it would draw the same, but you are wrong. Efficiency is NOT the same at 1ohm vs 4 ohm. Efficiency levels on Class D amps at 4ohms is around 86-88%. 1ohm, around 78-82%

You need 6,000 AA batteries. take 10 in series = 15.0v and parallel then in sets of 10. Bad thing is this is a one time battery bank, play it while it lasts!

Oh my Jesus God!!

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All Group Buy Orders are being shipped out tomorrow!

ooh.. monkey ass!

i need to talk to you more about those because i've thought about getting some before but didn't. I'll probably get in touch with you later on about them.