shizzzon

Just something for you to try- When you are completely sealed up, a vehicle will peak lower. IE- Vehicle may peak at 39hz sealed but 46Hz with door open. So, just for kicks, when measuring below 40hz, try with door open and with everything closed and sealed and see if any frequencies below 40hz actually get louder on the meter sealed or not. Also, it would be wise to test which side of the vehicle you are loudest at too. Use same test tone and volume when doing so.

yea.. that was until i flooded it with tools, accessories and equipment to be installed. The car hasnt been able to fit in the garage in months....

Cool man! Didn't know chuck was sick, just tried callin him... ooops. No work today, winds too damn cold. SMART Monitors will be in my possession soon! Signal cables came in today! There is bout to be a breaking period soon So no new updates for a while... Time consuming things are next to install

IT's not shipped. It takes 25-40days before it's finished being built, then the tracking info you have will start to be updated.

Oh, so all you gotta do is just Y split the signal twice then strap the signal. You should be fine for sure then. Back when i ran 6 AQ3500s, i actually Y split the signal SIX TIMES and ran lines to each amp. None of the amps required to have their gains at full tilt before clipping but the adjustments from one amp to another was definitely noticeable gain-setting-wise. In your case, you got it easy.

are you just running line in to line out? daisy chaining the signal? If so, yes, but you will need to gain match them because the further down the line maywill need the gain settings turned up more but shouldnt need to be maxed out.

i cant even think of anything funny to say because the idea is just stupid.

OH, now i see what you are saying.. Because there is no room. It's either insert or no insert, that's why. Based on the pics i've posted in my build log, if you've ever seen them.. this build is far from having room to do anything easy.

My runs might be as long as 3ft long and that's too long. My other runs are 8" or less. i know what you mean about a bolt but 300A surge of current through a steel bolt doesn't sound appealing to me. You know, SPL done gone crazy extreme. If it's not overkill, it's not right, lol.

lol.. it's Neil, not Neal and he would tell me how the gases in the universe created the tap, etc.. I don't need to know that.

yea, i know this sounds like the best mechanical connection for such a large device protruding from the amp but also, i'm just making sure screwing it in allows a great amount of contact. I know surface area is king but didn't know if there were small gaps between the threads that could pose an issue in terms of an excellent contact.

In my progression to finish my build, some of my amps may require amp inserts for dual cables per input. Now, i have the tools here to make it, that's easy. The thing i do NOT like about these inserts is how they are secured in the amp.. just by the little set screw on the amp.. For holding a solid piece, i fear the insert can "turn" eventually and i don't like that. Instead, i thought about purchasing a Metric tap and die set to tap the power and ground inserts on the amps. There appears to be enough metal in there to do so easily. I do not know 100% what size tap i need but i got some micrometers here to find out but the question is this- If i tap the amp and die the insert, when i go to screw these inserts in, won't I have an extremely efficient conductive connection inside? I'm just trying to make sure i'm assuming this correct. I'll probably resin or fasten some Noryl to these inserts so there is no risk of shorting the amp or batts out.

ah come on, we already have 5kw subs on the market.. let's move to 7.5kw daily, lol

yes it is but i do not see where you are going with that question? And if it wasn't, it would eventually require a rebuild. This hobby shouldis be a DIY hobby. Nobody gets things right the first time.. BUT if you are on a forum, take advice from those who have been there, done that to save you the trouble and money. And the good thing is, you will not forfeit learning from the mistakes either because we willcan present the reasons easily.

lol, dbsupra... How you gonna do a B pillar wall in the trunk? Well.. i guess you could if u had a Smartcar, lol.

um.. if you are not doing comps... then WHY PASS? Now you make no sense...

i would do 1-2 15s ported MAX. Anything more and you will not only lose efficiency but possibly be less loud.

Wel, you definitely have belt squeal so until you fix that, that's possibly the problem.

You answered one question already... How do you get it to sound crisp and clean? Well, going over xmax sure isn't the correct method and running a 2500w amp on a 500w sub isn't ideal for crisp and clean either. Sub is getting hot because you have too much power. Sure, i run 7x the power to my subs but it's not sustainable. That's why i turn it down for longer runs.

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ok then.. Assuming it's Gluten-free, don't forget about me when i make my way down to Louisiana in early 2013...

I heard flux capacitors are pointless in car audio too. You must be doing 88mph to get any juice out of the alternator.

Going fast my ass! You get to hear subs everyday at work, I've been baseless in the car for like 2 months. Try 2 years... But then again, i do travel to shows few hours from home so i don't actually miss the sound, just MY SOUND, hehe.

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