shizzzon

motorcycles have generators on the flywheel. better be at 150 level if u do this build.

Damnit! Why didnt you guys tell me about the 700s before i bought these last year! bigger motor and twice the power handling.. Hell, i'm listening to gcons on my ears right now.. I WANT ZCON HEADPHONE POTENTIAL!

oh, well then go to bestbuy and buy these- Sony MDR-XB500 They should be under $80. Specifically geared toward reproducing ridiculous amounts of bass. We tested them on test tones and could audibly hear down to NINE, yes, 9 HZ before it started going mechanical. They are beefy as hell but worth it.

I can tell your version has a sharper emphasis on the frequency itself rather than a blend like the one i did. We have different output goals, hehe.

How would that sound any better? unless you want some home theater bass... Stock peaks are 3147hz

Yea, some songs do sound good slowed, i just wanted to point out it's not the only way to go about it if u wish you didn't have to.

Here is link- https://www.box.com/s/e8bb9b572e3213568497

yea, it's raw format saving so it's not degrading the quality.. Only thing that could possibly degrade is the processing itself(eqing, etc...) but that's why we do it, hehe. IF you want, i will post up a song i did so u can see how realistic it sounds.. Lil Jon - I don't give a F*ck. gimme just a moment. If you remember, this song peaks around 50hz, mine peaks in the mid 30s.

confused?

Divide your work into 2 sections. You need to attack the LOWS.. not the highs. X-over the Low band between 48-96db around 100-175hz dependent upon possible peaks in that range and their amplitude. X-over the High band between 48-96db(must be same as Low band and Hz too). Export High Band as a single .WAV file unaltered. Export Low Band as a single .WAV file. Now, Change Pitch of the Low band negatively. This will give the sense of slowing down the bass by lowering it's peaks without changing it's speed. Add all other necessary Processing afterwards as intended. Now resave. Now, using whatever software you gave, Open both WAV files and MIX them together then resave as .WAV Now, reopen in Audacity and Execute HARD LIMITER at Value -0.1dB Go through and listen for any audible distortion. If any exists, it's because your LOW.wav file has too much information in it and needs to be attenuated. IF you feel this is unacceptable, then attenuate the entire HIGH.WAV file and remix the files together. This will give the LOW.WAV file more headroom for bass.

no no.. not "rebassing" i'm assuming you mean adding your own lines? I'm talking about using what is already in the recording and simply altering it, like you do with slowing down songs, but not the whole frequency range.. Just part of it. I use a multitude of software as Audacity can only do some stuff.. I stopped hosting songs once i started doing this.. I'll let you hear some of it sometime later. I'm gonna be busy for next several days.

33, 41 and 55 Hz. track has 0.3db of clipping. Nothing to worry about, just letting you know. Also, try to alter your basslines without slowing the song down. It's more enjoyable,

HE LIVES!!!!!!!

Then just call Paypal and see what they say. As long as he didn't gift you the payment.. so far, everything is legal.

Invisible font but i see the message.. From my understanding, if the funds show up in your bank account, Paypal would have no way to reverse the transaction so if that's true, then at least you got the money.

Keep it up Stefan! Your healthy goal seems to be working.

the unit is taken out of context. A build could take days, weeks, months, years... Jiffy lube takes seconds, minutes, hours. I could say, " your car will be ready in 0 days." Although by itself sounds stupid, but used as a range of measure, 0-whenever, is more appropriate. As what chuck said, the most degree of research of the smallest thing... I'll debate you over debating about debating the context of the unit. In the end.. if i were to lose.. I'll just say God did it because i don't know, lmao...

Yes it is! That would mean as early as today possibly.

then ur diodes are fine.

Where has chop been at? Ramrod been at? Mac n cheese been at? Mikeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee been at? Where is everybody at? They just stopped posting... unless.... Hmm.... Are these people doing a 195db build? hehe.

You can't just use winisd and you can't just use what happens when you install it and turn it on. If you truly want to be able to at least forsee or expect some sort of response, you must do both and overlap their results together. 98% of us on here would probably careless about taking the time to do this.. but i guarantee you if you did it just one time, you will enjoy learning what is happening by actually being able to mix experience with what's on a computer program.

This technique also comes in handy when you are burping for competition too. Let me explain- Let's say someone told you to find your car's peak by using a sealed box, etc.. bla bla bla. So you do and it's 47hz. So, you think for the rest of your life in this car, 47hz is the only frequency to aim for.... WRONG. It was only the PEAK for 2 given reasons- 1- it was the peak found out of a whole array of frequencies.. But what were the DB values of all the other frequencies? 2- it was the peak found based on the displacement of the enclosure used and the remaining cabin volume at play... So lets say you go and build a wall now.. Well, hehe, the remaining cabin volume will be a LOT smaller so the peak resonance in the vehicle will go UP. So, let's say it went up to 51hz and you know it will go up.. So you measure with the wall sealed and sure enough, it went up.. in this example, it went up to 51hz. So now you think every wall build needs to peak at 51hz... Lol.. no. If you take a cabin gain graph of the vehicle....You may see other frequencies compared to 51hz only lower in amplitude by less than 0.1-3.0db. What's interesting about this is this- Even though 51hz is the most EFFICIENT peak, it can be overcome by forcing the enclosure to peak somewhere else and developing enough amplitude to overcome the efficient peak of 51hz in this example. Why would one do this? What if you didn't have the depth to tune low enough to get to your efficient tuning? You can only do large port area, but not depth? Large port area = higher tuning = less depth of port. Just some things for you to think about.

In actuality, if you do model a 4th order in winisd, you will NOT want your response to be flat... If you wanna get super crucial about it, it's still highly advised to model in winisd to get a base. THEN.. with an already active setup in the vehicle(sealed, no influence with vent allowed), measure cabin gain in vehicle. This requires an spl meter and patience. It takes a couple hrs of measuring and writing everything down. Then based on info you obtained, make a graph of your cabin gain. Then you can use that graph on top of what Winisd says and blend the two together to attempt a theoretical actual response curve where Winisd will then more accurate than just using it by itself.

no not yet. thanks though! i'll probably mess around with it in the next 0-3 weeks.

if the sole purpose is to see if part of the 3 sets of diodes have burnt out of the rectifier, then that's easy.. Get a clamp meter(ammeter), clamp it around your charging cable at the alternator. Now would be a good time to know what your alternator's rated specs are. I would primarily test maximum output potential. Most alts, unless otherwise stated, are rated COLD and most alts will reach peak at engine rpm of 1800-2500. So.. just to make sure you get there, rev to about 3000rpm, put an ENORMOUS load on the vehicle. Something you know the alt just can't handle. Obtain reading... if an alt is rated for 250A cold, it's hot reading could be anywhere typically between 195-230A due to variables(belt, engineering, resistance, wiring configuration, etc) If one set of diodes go out, 13 of the output would be lost so it should be quite noticeable.