shizzzon

lots of newer cars physically cant be changed.. So for those vehicles, MECA will allow you to use a device you would have to make yourself to crank down the gas pedal to a given rpm as long as the device is also not designed to possibly amplify pressure. If it appears to solely be used to control rpms, then it's legal.

Is there any reasoning on wiring it like this vs just running over the front battery?

270XP ALTERNATOR HAS SHIPPED! It will be here next week... I will not install it until about a week before the show.. No need to right now.. If there is something wrong with it.. oh well, throw the stock on there and make do. There is just no need to put it on at this time.

while i am leary on using things like that because i had problems with them ripping out of the wood with enough torq on unscrewing them when they were glued in, not epoxied.. this is what i'll be doin with my wall- For one, yes, you need to control baffle flex. Add more bracing to reduce that flex... Then, I use just normal wood screws, #12 i believe and screw them all the way through all baffles. Next, for my wall, since i am using low baffle thickness, i will have some steel plating behind a couple of mounting holes per woofer. They will be tapped and bolts driven through those holes. This will relieve some of the tension on the wood screws, I've had #12 break off heads too in the past but hopefully it wont happen this way. I'm just going to resin glue the steel plating on the back of the baffle in certain places already tapped and ready to go. I would probably use a nut too even though it's tapped.. but do not torque down too hard if resin gluing the steel to wood.. You would probably crack the glue from too much pressure so just do it where it's tight, but not overly tight. OR.. you could go crazy like i did this one time, hehe. Reverse run boltswashers from the inside out with threads sticking out of the front of the baffle. Resin glue the hell out of these, they should never come out! Drop each sub over all the bolts and then tighten em down with a socket wrench using a regular nut is all. Tighten the nut to where it drives through the surround material(that lips over the mounting ring, not the surround itself) Little tip- If you resin glue the bolts in place.. make sure that you do NOT put it on any part of the thread that the nut will ride on! Just the top half the bolt, not the lower half.. Otherwise when it dries.. well, good luck...

progress slowin down due to heat.. when i get full steps accomplished, i'll upload more pics

But dad!!!... I got so much more work to do...

Yea, central US would be great.. I don't know the exact reasoning behind Indy being chosen as i have never competed in either of those 3 leagues before but i can tell you that IN, OH, KY and TN have a massive competitor base. and i'm not being biased just because I live in that area.... FL does too and of course Indy is closer to FL than central US.. Just trying to help those understand possibly the reasoning.

Just got word yesterday... My 270XP Alt has just been built.. Awaiting further info.. If they remember, it should be getting anodized too. That can take up to 1.5weeks.

the smaller you go, the more low end you lose...

oh... so u two gonna have the whole hotel to yourselves? Some freaky shit gonna happen there..

what is the lead time advertised? 15 days max? If it is.. that's probably business days which equals 3 full weeks max possibly then ~1week to ship.. So 1 month would be about right for maximum time.

Yep, i thought that's what it was... Glad it was an easy find.

guess i gotta start lookin and just tell everybody where they'll be at, lol. And Lantz.. You better not be around any girls while you are up here.. We all know what happened the last time you told us you were underage and drinkin.... And i will not be part of the train either,

yep, he's right. You need a wire harness. Contact Mechman for one.

remember, don't ship mine! wait til slamology

if u had both alts on there.. 2-3 good AGM Group 31s in there would be plenty.

It appears so far that nobody is staying anywhere up here? lol So.. where are you all teleporting to after the show is over friday and saturday night?

Less batteries are good assuming Maintenance free. For 130A alt.. that's not really enough for daily driving on single 3500w amp so caution needs to be used and do system stress checks to see how long it can be played before problems tend to be measured with tools.

For a truck, Mechman should be fine... If you plan on literally abusing the living hell out of it beyond reason, DC Power XP line. But i must warn you.. IF you go with DC Power, it may take anywhere from 1-10weeks for delivery.

9 batts where over half of them are G31s on single alt... If you do not constantly check and perform maintenance on your electrical system about 2-3x Per Week, i give you less than 12 months before either your batts or alternator dies. You are going way overboard on requirement and then at the same time you may be using the wrong type of battery too. If it's not Maintenance free, I wouldn't use it. that alternator is going to be under some bad abuse... i'd invest in an ammeter and DMM and check it under all usable conditions.

Numerical.

10,000 18s on 240 Stetsom 45ks. Lol.. 8 18" Icons 4th order on currently 1 SS XXX 6500d

look at the box i built for Sencheezy a while back. he used an 8" form tube about ~24in long. Most of it was internal, only a few in external. I added 3 extra layers of wood inside the box around the exit hole(3" thick) to secure the form tube. It doesnt move, trust me. Add some glue or silicone or duct tape, lol, anything internally and it will stay still. It will not deform under pressure whatsoever.

Looks like you did a Kid Trick too! Look in the top left corner close to 30seconds.. Comes out of nowhere.. Is that hair i hear moving? I must go see!

if u built it in the trunk.. that wouldnt be possible.. IF you really can't get any more space.. What i would do is find a single 12 that would love that space!