shizzzon

if you are going to be adding more for sure, find out what quantity, then just buy one big amp.. 2kw on 4-6 is baby power,

how about 2 APSM-1300s? Wire each sub to it's own amp at 1ohm. Can be had for WELL UNDER $300 shipped.

If you go to slamology, i can make you a dvd of what i've done. ask the IAK family about what i've done the last time we went to slamology. The music i make is music we are actually familiar with, not 1000 randomness songs.

Group buy ends tonight!

it's not the wire! CCA 1/0 from Knu is rated to handle up to 350A @3ft. If it were the wire, the melting wouldn't be isolated to just one side of the fuse holder... Like someone else said earlier, if you are using set screws.. they have tendency to allow your wire to loosen over time due to vibrations. This is ALSO TRUE for amps too if the amp isn't mounted securely enough. Solution- mount fuse block(zip tie is fine too) and zip tie the power wire within 1-3" from each entranceexit point to something to ensure it's "locked" in place. Other alternative, ditch set screws and go all terminal only.

well, anything you would need to build to level the terminals will create resistance then the bars on top of this thing would lose some contact too.. My advice is to use just wire but fasten it differently than what you have it now! You do not have the actual wire terminals on the battery terminal which is not good. Get all your wire terminals on both sides of those battery terminals and then just run a bolt through it and put a nut on it.

Lmao, just had a vision of this-

OVER! Dangrebel WINS!!! Please pm me your PP address so we can send over invoice.

3 minutes left! Senchez is winning with $42.50

if you want it to prevent clipping, getting the utmost out of it clean for certain, then yes. O-scopes aren't necessary but luckily, nanoscopes can be had for under $100 so it's not as expensive as it used to be. An oscope will also read ac voltage like a dmm but you will know for sure what voltage it needs to be set at to get that "perfect" gain setting you are looking for. You can use easy math formula to find ac voltage but it won't be as simple as 2+2 as you can see with an oscope due to variables at play. Just remember, the DC voltage you set it at when using a scope, dropping your DC voltage at that volume level will induce light to moderate clipping depending on how low your voltage drops. Some clipping isn't bad, constant abuse is.

Ok, i promised you all pics today so here they are.. I was hoping to get NEW pics just from today but I have to recut 2 big pieces and waste more wood because i wanted the absolute maximum size possible for these pieces.. Also, waiting for some bracing to dry so I can install the new pieces tomorrow hopefully so no new pics were taken today. All of the following pics were done this past week. My new air Struts- And this is where I air it up at- This part of the floor is Resined to prepare to anchor the battery rack down- This last picture is interesting- I ran 2 4/0 cables up inside the car where a grommet USED TO BE! The cables are so stiff, it RIPPED the grommet in half! Just tore it in half. I noticed I couldnt replace the grommet because it would happen again.. but i can't leave it like that with no grommet because the floor is digging into the wire jacket and can short it out eventually so i had to do something. I went and got some 1.5" ID PVC from some spare runs i had layin around. I cut a 4" long pipe and slit it open down the middle so i could wrap the pvc around the cable since it was already ran. I then got some duct tape and wrapped the pvc up real tight so it couldnt open back up. I then installed chemicalweatherproof Zip ties directly below and above the PVC pipe on inside and outside of car. At this point, the pvc is pushed back through the hole sticking half way in and out. I then wrapped the zip ties up in plenty of duct tape as well. I then zip tied both 4/0 cables separately approx 12" inside the vehicle from the hole in the floor to ensure they nor the PVC pipe could ever move. The PVC will fully protect them from shorting out due to sharp edges that would have happened if not done. I STRONGLY suggest for those using this 4/0 SGX cable to do the same if you need to bend this cable up into the vehicle at a decently sharp angle(45degree or more).

I haven't fully studied them but can you elaborate on which particular rules are "stupid"? I have briefly skimmed through their rules and do not remember seeing anything terrible.. I do know that this league guarantees cash payout at every show if you place 1st. That's a good incentive by itself. They also do not focus on burp only vehicles as many competitors and new leagues forming are moving away from that. I for one support the decision for new leagues to move away from burp only vehicles. To the spectator, it's boring. Ask any MECA spectator how much fun it is to watch a MECA show. I'm bringing up MECA as a prime example because many of their shows have no spectators.. unless a competitor brings their own. MECA is fun if you are a competitor but isn't every competitor league based off just that?

I'd say $350 for the sub $400 for the amp $50 for the 20' cable. For one, that cable is tinned copper. It doesn't matter if it's used or not, it'll still perform just like new. Lucky, people actually discount their wire from the normal retail price. For the amp, that amp isn't made anymore and the one to take it's spot is the BC3500D which goes for just over $600 shipped now. Comparing other nice 3500w amps, they all are over $500-600 easy. Even though that amp may have been sold for less then $600 before, the market has shifted and prices go up. Lucky anyone wouldn't be paying $450 for it.

Setting up an RTA is used to focus on the frequency range, not how loud you can go on the amplitude. Because of that, you would attenuate your setup to be tested within the play range of an RTA. We do have a Broadband RTA but it's not suggested to be used just for RTA'ing because a Broadband RTA (ours goes up to 165db) is not as accurate as a real RTA and it's minimum measurable pressure is ~121db.

6 days left until Group buy is over!

We have 2 older style RTA Pro meters sitting here that are no longer made the way these are. We still manufacture RTA Pro meters for sure, but we have 2 older style meters in SPL cases that we no longer make like that. The specs are still the same- 90-130dB, 20-20000hz These are still used for utmost accuracy for RTA'ing. We are going to play a game on here and on another forum. Each forum will have a chance for members to win one of these meters at the highest "bid". This is how it works- We are going to start the price off at $31 SHIPPED. If you are interested in owning this meter and expect to pay within 48hrs, post here what you are willing to pay! It's that simple. Whoever posts the highest amount by 4pm EST tomorrow, Monday, April 29, 2012 wins that meter for that price! The meter uses our SPL cases with the RTA sensor on the side. The meter still has suction cups on it if you need to put it on windshield. Our software is available for free on our website - www.spllabusa.com Warranty- Because we no longer build these in these cases any longer, we are offering a 90day warranty on these. If warranty is required, we will reimburse your money based on what you paid here if you are the winner! Customer must ship back meter to determine warranty is still valid in such case. If the winner does not pay within 48hrs(by 4pm EST Wednesday, May 2, 2012, then the person who was 2nd in line will be able to purchase it. That's it! All you have to do is post your price, anything at or above $31. Shipping is already included into price. The Game has begun! Good Luck!

Hey Steve, is someone messin with you at the show? I seen a Steve Meade on the 2nd video.. They givin the scorespoints to the wrong person!!! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

if i had that car, i'd be gettin some facts first before buyin stuff and potentially wasting money where you do not have too. Call a reputable alt company that knows imports. Mechman and DC Power both know these cars well. Ask them what is the normal charge voltage for this car. Tell them you are only ever seeing 13.7v all the time.. that's not normal but can be if it's setup that way from factory. You need to know what's normal and what cancan't be done first. I'm assuming the alt and new alt must be charging because if they weren't, you wouldn't be able to drive back and forth after just 30-60minutes without major electrical problems.

if you set your gains with dmm with sub attached, you will probably get less power. If you set gains with dmm with no sub attached, depending on your electrical system, can cause your amp to clip due to low dc voltage.. It's complicated.. basically, i hate dmm tuning gains. Unless the manufacturer specifically told you what voltage to aim at, i dont trust it. Too many other variables at play.

setting your gains with a dmm is actually gonna cause you to get less than ideal power out of your amp. For the budget minded, get an APSM-1500. The best bang for your buck, 1500w amp for under $150 shipped at many places. AP has stepped up their game some recently and their amps are not overrated.

Sorry, i forgot to add this too- For processing, i'll be using a Memphis Audio 16-XO3 3way bandpassable crossover. I'm also going to be using the Soundstream XBP-10. This processor works wonders with people who use walls with a load of drivers on it. It's interesting that some company's such as Soundstream actually manufactured a device like this. They know what we need

Product list update- Got into a wall the other day with deciding on what to run and where to fit it before i accidentally build the wrong thing in the back.. Well, i now have the full equipment list taken care of. I will be posting pics up here tomorrow of what i've done recently... Equipment list- 4 CA 5500ds 4 DC XL 18s (0.5 2ohm) Front stage- 3 AP APSM-2125s (2 for midrange, 1 for tweeters) 4 8" PA mids. Brand is unknown at this time but not important right now. APSM amps will supply up to 800w for midrange. 3rd APSM amp will run 125wx2 to a pair of CA FT1 tweeters. I do not have pics of this yet because i need to order the motherload of aluminum but due to space constraints, i will need to reinforce the back of my wall in Aluminum. The back wall will then be anchored to my battery bank. The aluminum will be anchored to some steel runs on the battery bank to help hold it together. the battery bank area is a perfect fit for my 8 D1200s which allow no "wiggle" room, perfect for helping brace some massive amount of potential flex. the sides of the back part of the wall will be braced in 2x4s because i have the space for that. Pics to come tomorrow..

when u say amp wires.. i'm assuming you are measuring this directly at the amp. So, stock batt = 14.8v other front batt(d3400)= 13.8v amp in the back= 14.8v Your amp is grounded to frame of vehicle. Your amp's power cable is in a circuit with the alternator, the D3400 and the stock batt. this allows your amp to see 14.8v. For your D3400 not to see 14.8v, it must not be grounded to the frame at all... this is NOT ideal. I would ground the D3400 to the frame, possibly to the same point the alt's Big 3 ground point is for best location.

check fuse(s) on your front to rear power wire run. If it's not that, then it's this- You have what i try and preach to people 10,000x is we, car audio community, cannot just rely on the framework of a vehicle as the "perfect" ground. You are experiencing a full 1 volt drop from front to rear. You want to test this for free without installing anything? Get you a set of jumper cables. You need only use the ground side. Attach the ground clamp to ground post on D3400. Attach other end to ground post on stock battery, alt casingbracket or as close to the battery or alt ground as possible. Your voltage should instantly skyrocket. Ifwhen it does, you need to run a ground cable from front to rear of the stock batt to rear batt ground.

FLBSPL is now SPL-Lab's 3rd official league that has chosen us as the meter of choice. FLBSPL's shows are located mainly on the East coast of the US. For more information, check out- http://www.flbspl.com Their Facebook page is updated with show locations, etc.