shizzzon

Thank you

DB-R isn't the only US repair center either... So just because DB-R hasn't had any of these amps in a while doesn't mean they still aren't getting toasted. And why would someone send it anywhere else? Warranty up.. or just pure voided the warranty and to save cost on repair, they get another place to repair them.

Just updated first post with prices and links to Lugs from 4/0 down to 8awg

Why is that? AC vs DC by itself has no magical difference over who will have more voltage drop first... The key to AC voltage is the plants that supply towns with energy disperse humungous amounts of voltage everywhere. Transformers on telephone poles are used to reduce or increase voltage in that area. There technically is no such thing as a DC transformer but people use that term anyway to explain a conversion tofrom DC.

well.. i wouldnt run any amp 4x lower than recommended even for burps. The actual load will still probably be lower than recommended which could cause instant failure.

down the road? I can tell you straight up I can make them but i'm not in the cosmetic department. They would have sharp corners and no finish on them. If you want that, Toolmaker or TeamProjectDB would be the place to go.

Really? Well Hello Navid!

I figured this should be stickied because this will REALLY help all of us get our cabling cheaper. I'll start from the largest to the smallest- This information is valid as of 4-14-2012. 4/0 - http://www.wireandsu...0-fslash-01.htm $2.98/ft - Pure COPPER 397A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 390A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 3/0 - Too $$$ for other options available 2/0 - http://www.wireandsu...0-fslash-01.htm $2.55/ft - Pure COPPER 250A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 249A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 1/0 - http://www.wireandsu...0-fslash-01.htm $2.10/ft - Pure COPPER 198A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 198A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 1 AWG - http://www.wireandsu..._p/sgx-1g01.htm $1.65/ft - Pure COPPER 157A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 157A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 2 AWG - http://www.wireandsu...p/sgx-2g-01.htm $1.25/ft Pure COPPER 125A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 125A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 4 AWG - http://www.wireandsu...t_p/sgx-401.htm $0.94/ft Pure COPPER 78A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 78A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 6 AWG - http://www.wireandsu..._p/wc-6g-01.htm $0.85/ft Pure COPPER 49A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 49A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 8 AWG - http://www.knukoncep...m?prodID=KFX8BK $0.69/ft COPPER Tinned 43A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 43A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 8 AWG - http://www.wireandsu...egory_s/275.htm $0.50/ft Pure COPPER 31A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 31A @3ft @1% Voltage drop Compared against Weldingsupply, Knukonceptz and other welding companies of wire that meet the AWG standard or better. Current ratings may be different than what you expect and this is because the current ratings are based on a precise voltage drop %. Just because a wire can handle or is rated at a certain current rating doesn't mean that's the best capable for the job! If you have seen current rating of wire higher than what is listed above, that means it will have an even worse voltage drop % at the given length comparison. Now onto Lugs (all Lugs have FREE shipping)- 4/0 14" - 12" hole Tinned COPPER- Sold individually - $1.83 http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Tinned%20Copper%20Cable%20Lugs/0000%20AWG%20Tinned%20Lug/?sck=12205831 3/0 - Too Pricy for what other options are available. 2/0 - 14" - 12" hole Tinned COPPER- Sold individually - $1.39 http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Tinned%20Copper%20Cable%20Lug/00%20AWG%20Tinned%20Lug/?sck=12205831 1/0 - 14" - 12" hole Tinned COPPER- Sold individually - $1.27 http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Tinned%20Copper%20Cable%20Lugs/0%20AWG%20Tinned%20Lug/?sck=12205831 1 AWG - 14" - 12" hole Tinned COPPER- Sold individually - $1.18 http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Tinned%20Copper%20Cable%20Lugs/1%20AWG%20Tinned%20Lug/?sck=12205831 2 AWG - 14" - 12" hole Tinned COPPER- Sold individually - $1.15 http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Items/gim-91035?sck=12205831&caSKU=gim-91035&caTitle=2%20AWG%20Tinned%20Lug%20Cable%20Crimp%20Connector%20End%201/4%20in 4/6/8 AWG - 14" - 12" hole Tinned COPPER- Sold individually - $1.13 4 AWG- http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Tinned%20Copper%20Cable%20Lugs/4%20AWG%20Tinned%20Lug/?sck=12205831 6 AWG- http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Tinned%20Copper%20Cable%20Lugs/6%20AWG%20Tinned%20Lug/?sck=12205831 8 AWG- http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Tinned%20Copper%20Cable%20Lugs/8%20AWG%20Tinned%20Lug/?sck=12205831

What is the resin going to be used for? For structural adhesive, get Fasco 110 at www.uscomposites.com If you have any questions about this stuff, ask me. I use this stuff all the time. For resin used for fiberglassing, I can't help you on that one

You realize we are talking about DC voltage here? AC voltage can maintain voltage at long runs but DC cannot. For one, it doesn't matter what 1/0 "can" do, it matters what it's voltage drop will be. In DC applications, you want ZERO voltage drop. Therefore, larger cable is recommended. According to calculation- Passing 200A of current through a 1/0 cable at 8ft long will have a 0.32v drop. That's just at the engine bay! Passing 200A of current through a 4/0 cable at 8ft long will have a 0.16v drop. Much better. And did we mention the 4/0 costs about the same or less than 1/0 depending on what 1/0 you are comparing too.

you would run 2 4/0 power from 400a alt to d3400. Each of these would be fused with 300-350A fuse. You would then run 2 4/0 power from D3400 to buss bars, fuse within 18" of it leaving D3400 and 18" before hitting buss bars. Each of these 2 runs are also fused 300-350A per. You can technically fuse with a 400A fuse per wire as suggested but i am real critical about safety and feel leary about a fuse that large in a vehicle. You need NOT run power cable from alt to buss bars AND D3400 to buss bars like u stated earlier... That's redundant.

OK, first, move the D3400 to the rear. Next, your amp will get most of it's power from the rear battAlt. The front battery will disperse a low amount of current to your audio, therefore front battery does not require crazy large grounds. For a 250A alt or smaller, i'd run single 4/0 power from alt to front batt. If larger than 250A, 2 4/0 would be ideal. (All of my suggestions are to prevent any or the lowest ideal voltage drop). Now, for the ground, i'd run a single 4awg-1/0 cable off starting battery to chassis. For alt ground, i'd run single 4/0 off case or bracket to chassis. I'd ALSO run single 4/0 from the same place you ground Alt to chassis at to ground on starting battery. I would then run 1-2 4/0 power from front batt to rear D3400. I would ALSO run 1 4/0 cable GROUND from front batt to rear D3400. I would ground the rear D3400 with 1-2 4/0. Fusing- Fuse alt to front batt, and 2 fuses in line with 4/0 per run from front to back. Make sure each fuse is within 18" of front batt and 18" of rear batt. What size fuse? 4/0 cable is DANGEROUS if it grounds out and can cause a potential fire before the recommended fuse pops. I would suggest fusing below it's capable current capability. This will not cause a loss of performance just because you are using a smaller fuse on a larger cable, just make sure you fuse in accordance to what you are protecting that the wire is ran tofrom. IE- fuse for alt, should be slightly higher than the Alt's output potential. 250A=300A fuse, 270A alt = 300A fuse, 320A alt= 350A fuse, etc... 4/0 runs from front to back. Each cable (whether you run 1 or 2 power runs) should be fused roughly 50-75A that of your alt rating. This will allow maximum current throughput from alt and low current throughput from starting battery. So, IE- 250A alt, 300A fuse per run. 270A alt, 350A fuse per run. I would personally suggest to NEVER EVER EVER fuse higher than 350A in a vehicle anywhere using ONE fuse. Now, if you needed 500A of fusing on a single fuse block, you'd be safer on splitting the fuses up into smaller multiples. That way if the fuses start popping, they will pop like a domino effect and after the first one pops, the rest will pop much much quicker. Large cable in this type of use is to lower the amount of voltage drop at play. Using suggested fusing will still give better performance by using a larger cable over the normal suggested size and still offer rapid safe response time when that fuse pops. If you had a cable capable of 1000A and you fused it with 1000A fuse and that cable grounded... a fuse would not save you... So, be safe! Now, into what fuse blocks to use? This 4/0 cable is literally a hair larger than Knu's Kolossus in diameter. I have an enormous amount of terminals i can ship you if you need terminals. The onyl down side to them is they use a 12" mounting hole which is not normal in car audio installs so if your base is 5/16" or 3/8" bolt... check the base of where it's mounting too to ensure it has enough surface area! My 4/0 terminals are 7/8" wide so the base needs to be about 1" or larger to properly use these to full potential. Fuse blocks- You can acquire the blocks from Stinger, XScorpion, etc.. that require ring terminals to mount. You can find them for around $10 or less per block. They accept single ANL fuse. You can also have someone such as TeamProjectDB, Toolmaker or I to make some for you.. although I am not available right now.

http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/lookout/forecasters-warn-life-threatening-storms-011855690.html

ok, first off, u will need to move your 3400 to the rear. This will give you better voltage at the amp. I will come back and explain how to wire it later today.

Ok Fearz, explain to me how your electrical system is laid out, alt, all batts and amps installed so i can answer your question.

I'm about to go see a movie. When I get back, I will tell u all your answers. Also, its super easy so no worries.

OK, here are 2 pics next to a quarter.

i try to but the CCA and this 4/0 has too much tension to keep em together. Honestly, from seeing them all in person, CCA, Kolossus and 4/0 look the same size to the eye. It's the calipers that say otherwise... What I did in the beginning of this topic is measuring the OD of the jacket, then thickness ot the jacket and calculate the ID which should be the thickness of each cable as a whole. The thicknesses of all 3 are pretty much all the same. It's the fact that the 4/0 is so damn heavy that makes you feel the difference instead of seeing it.

And then of course can't forget by 200 4/0 ring terminals.

If you think that's cheap..... Wha ha ha ha ha ha... How about 3/0 for $1/ft? Nah, hehe, just kidding.. But seriously, this is happening right now- Talking with Lowes, this is some interesting information to keep in mind- Lowes in my area actually stocks 3/0 cable. Their local price is $3.80 per foot (cheaper than Kolossus, local and stronger). The 500FT spool is $1615. This will save you a couple hundred dollars if you want to go crazy. This info is good because if you need cable immediately, your local Lowes may be able to help you! And the other thing- I am looking into making my own Kcmil cable. What is Kcmil cable? Kcmil cable is cable that is larger than 4/0. It's the actual name of the cable based on the size of the cable. So.. Kcmil cable is BIG! and there are many sizes.. Doing some calculations, the largest Kcmil cable is so large, it's unrealistic even in the most xtreme car audio install.. 2000 Kcmil cable, at 18" long can handle 6,250A of current at only 0.1v drop. But Kcmil cable is VERY $$$ for 2 reasons. 1- Kcmil must usually be bought in spools of 1000ft. 2- Kcmil is rarely used for mass market use therefore no demand = high pricing.. Kcmil can typically go for $10-60/ft So, i will be experimenting with making my own and can making it in any length obviously. One point i'd like to address about the cable i'll be doing testing with- Kcmil is VERY stiff.. not used for flexibility as much. Potential use in Car Audio- Used to replace front to rear wire run ONLY in straight shot sections where bending is done at the most extreme minimal. Used to replace buss-bars in an area where buss-bars were incapable of working for whatever reason. Basically, do not assume zig zag patterns with Kcmil cable. I will have to make my own terminals for them so give me some time to do testing.

Ok.. now we are trailing way off here, hehe. And I'm not even going to comment on that.. I haven't owned either vehicle mentioned as i've never been into racing all that much..

Cool! I like your baffle! Cosmetic creativity.

I know it sounds silly but i did it because when someone posts they found 4/0 for less than 2/0... people are going to start speculating as to it's performance... Now, there are no physical tests done here, BUT, equivalent AWG comparisons are shown here to give the members here some spoon-fed info without calculating it themselves. This 4/0 is less flexible but not stiff as a rock... Even for $1 less and more powerful, it's necessary to show others how much better 4/0 is over 2/0. And, FYI, i was sitting here bending this 4/0 around. The smallest ID circle i could make with this 4/0 is 4" wide. Doing the same with Knu's CCA, ID circle was 2.25" wide. Kolossus is the most flexible but in applications where you need not zig zag every few inches, 4/0 is a great option..

Oh, well now i see what you are saying... We would assume that 4/0 is better than 2/0 yes.. but for it to be cheaper is what makes you wonder.. Here is the link to the wire- 4/0 Cable

it's as apples to apples as i can get it as the wire size for Knu is pulled from their spec sheet which is compared to the AWG standard. Kolossus is 2/0 and CCA is 0.23 AWG.