shizzzon

Just received my 4/0 cable from unknown source (Nope, not Welding supply). Anyways, did some measurements on dimensions and weight and thought some will find this information interesting. Used analog caliper and let it measure all following specs stress-free (i wasn't holding it) Knukonceptz Kolossus- OD jacket- 0.57" (rated on website as 0.63") Wire thickness- 0.47" (rated on website as 0.472") Copper only wire. MAX LOAD rated on website- 375A @20ft (does not correspond to safe continuous use via NEC Standard which is to not allow voltage drop greater than 0.5v) Knukonceptz CCA- OD jacket- 0.60" (rated on website as 0.63") Wire thickness- 0.5" (rated on website as 0.472") Copper and Aluminum. MAX LOAD rated on website- 250A @20ft (does not correspond to safe continuous use via NEC Standard which is not allow voltage drop greater than 0.5v) My 4/0 cable that I paid LESS than Kolossus- OD jacket- 0.74" Wire thickness- 0.54" Copper only wire. Load rated at 389A @12.75ft. Meets NEC Standard via voltage drop not to exceed 0.5v! Weight comparison- I did not have a long spool of Kolossus so this is just based on CCA vs 4/0. CCA at 46.5FT- 8.3lbs 4/0 at 50FT- 38.0lbs HOLY ******** ... Yes you read that right! This 4/0 cable is rated at 389A @12.75ft with 0.5v drop Knu Kolossus is rated at 350A @8.92ft with 0.5v drop Knu CCA is rated at 250A @9.9ft with 0.5v drop So, you want to see a real comparison based on specs of actual calculated voltage drops based on wire length? Well, here are some- For 18" runs at no higher than 0.1v drop- Single Knukonceptz Kolossus- 415A @18" @0.1v drop Single Knukonceptz CCA- (this is based on pure copper rating but of same size.. Actual rating will be lower than stated) 330A @18" @0.1v drop Single 4/0 cable- 660A @18" @0.1v drop You can clearily see here that the 4/0 cable is 1.5x stronger than the Kolossus AND IS CHEAPER!... Now, how about for 18ft runs? 18FT runs at no higher than 0.3v drop- Single Knukonceptz Kolossus- 104A @18FT @0.3v drop Single Knukonceptz CCA- (this is based on pure copper but of same size.. Actual rating will be lower than stated) 82.5A @18FT @0.3v drop Single 4/0 cable- 165.5A @18FT @0.3v drop Now, you can see that the 4/0 cable is 163% better than the Kolossus. So, what are we talking about here? Kolossus is $3.95/ft CCA is $1.95/ft 4/0 cable is $2.98/ft Am I serious? Yes I am.... Enjoy this article.

The supertweeter would drown out the "regular tweeter" 100%. that's why we do not recommend using rear speakers in a proper setup as the "front stage", as it's called, typically drowns out the rear speakers and has bad acoustical effects if leaving rear speakers powered.

is this sub suppose to be better than the Zcon ???? It is WAY better than the Zcon in the sense that it's cheaper. Assuming that is what you are talking about.. Otherwise, i'd suggest you read and read and read back over what you personally quoted as the potential answer lies within.

Wow, u got those amps still? the A7Hcs? classics... On another note.. i've never heard anything good about CDT comps so do some good homework on your research.

Group buy has started. It will end MAY 5th at 11:59pm EST. To be a part of the group buy, please Paypal $165 to the following address(do not send as a gift or payment will be refunded)- [email protected] You can either send this amount or full amount. Remainder amount needs to be paid within 60 days from now. All Group buy orders are expected to ship by the end of May. Below is all pricing for what we have to offer. We also offer custom calibrations listed below. If you do not need anything changed, you will receive a normal built meter. NOTE- when paying, please let us know what you are purchasing. Below is what we offer- For information on our meters, please visit our website at- www.spllabusa.com USB Meter- Stock specs - 120-179dB 10hz-120hz Price - $349 Group buy Options- 110-169dB, 115-174dB LCD Meter- Stock specs - 120-180dB 20hz-120hz Price - $399 Group Buy Options- 10-120hz 115-175dB, 125-185dB, 130-190dB, 135-195dB USB Pro Meter- Stock specs - 120-179dB 10hz-120hz Price - $499 Group Buy Options- 110-169dB, 115-174dB Wireless Bluetooth Meter- Stock specs - 130-180dB 20hz-120hz Price - $419 Group Buy Options- 10-120hz 125-175dB, 135-185dB, 140-190dB, 145-195dB USB Noise Meter-(RTA) Stock specs - 80-140dB 20hz-20000hz Price - $259 Group Buy RTA Pro Meter-(RTA) Stock specs - 90-130dB 20hz-20000hz Price - $359 Group Buy Both above RTAs can be adjusted to 10-20000hz for free or up to 22000hz for a $15 fee. Any questions or anything, please ask.

Just some randomness- Those who get in on the group buy (if you request it) will receive information on where to purchase 4/0 cable for under $3/ft! Everyone else will see where to get it once my build is done..

Guess what starts in 28hrs 10min?

you'll never have a solid 14.4v system even with 50 D3100s.. The best you can do with battery power is 13.6-13.8v. If you want better, you will need battery and upgraded alternator. Although, this isn't critical, it's not important to be at or over 14v either at all times.

well, it came back on.. sounds like your battery wasis REAL REAL REAL LOW when it discharged when u lost your alt! I'd be charging that batt back up soon before you use it again.

regardless of what it said, u cant have your stuff shut off at 12.1v, that's not low enough.

The voltage will drop instantly yes.. but his audio equipment should not have turned off, especially if it were at 12.1v. Sounds like the battery was undercharged because it was either low, or not enough batts in the vehicle for the setup. Anyways, the voltmeter had to be lying about realtime voltage because your amp can handle voltages well below 12.1v and the short burst current from a battery will last longer than a split second to power that amp fine... To me, sounds like you already had damaged part of the bridge rectifier and it was on it's last set of diodes (prob about 50A worth) and when you cranked a 3500w amp on a ~50A rectifier, lol, and i'm sure the rectifier is hella-hot from stressfully working all the time.. POOF

then my idea is wrong.... disconnect rcas and run another source to your amp such as ipod, etc and see what it sounds like

unhook ALL speaker wire and connect only ONE of the 2 12s and see what it sounds like.. Doing this, I feel may magically make it sound lots better! Let me know if it does.

You think you are being contaminated this way?

NO!!!!!! Whatever you do.. do NOT start from scratch or we'll be right back where we were! The scratch is GONE! For the love of God.. if you get a new enclosure, start from linear excursion!, never from scratch!

someone who is peaking that low.. flex will always be greatest.

It was a joke to imply what other forums do.. Since SSA stands out as being different.

Yep, and read this for an interesting paradox- Sony, being one of 10 companies, owns the rights to the DVD licensing, etc.. So, if you want to build a device which incorporates DVD playback features, Sony will get a part of that profit... Microsoft is not one of these companies but they must pay Sony for this license so their Xbox360 can play DVDs. So, let's get this straight... Microsoft, in competition with Sony, PAYS Sony to have a feature put on their product that is in direct competition with Sony (PS3)... We could do this all day with different genres of products around the world. Point being- stop digging deep into how a particular company runs their business and then expose them for doing what they are suppose to be doing. At least they know how to maintain a website without losing it, or creating their own line of product that isn't 99.99999% direct comparison with certain competition in each and every single product created so far, or knowing that once you make a name for yourself, you don't change it whenever you need to to start fresh again, or just randomly purchase a bunch of product and never test it and sell it to the masses and go.. hope for the best(DT).. etc.. The only negative thing I can say about SSA is they have still left this thread open for information when other forums would have closed it.. temp banned the person stirring up a convo.. then allow others to start a new thread and just blast the banned person without moderation.

The SSF setting on the AQ is not JUST shy of 50hz. So I am assuming in the neighborhood of ~46hz. Then simply put, if it has to be THAT high... the box is WAY too large for music.

the instructions were to use a 30hz test tone so if the bottom end is lost on a 30hz tone... then the enclosure is FAR too large.

SKERT......... Take a break people! I just called Sencheezy with some tips on evaluating his install and will be testing these shortly. In the meantime, let's just wait until the tests are done so we can move on andor conclude the results of this thread. It is my belief that the box being used is too large for the setting that the subsonic filter is currently set at. It appears it is set at a general rule of thumb setting which cannot be used for such a large enclosure. So.. Sencheezy will be fine tuning the subsonic filter shortly per my instructions and will report back shortly with results. hopefully, this wil be resolved shortly. This is no way, i believe, is a result of ANY company's product! It just sounds like setting error.

Is this d2250 an xs power batt or a hawker type batt?

u goin to Slizzamology? Hmm.. i might have to get there a day early so i can prepare to say hey to everyone.

In my opinion, I think USA vs everyone else is purely an opinionated debate. Also, it's not about who is better, but just pure politics. And whenever politics is brought up, nobody as a group will always agree on the same thing.

I do not know pricing for all but all of those choices are capable of destroying your escape if box is built right. Best output comes from the box, not the subwoofer.