shizzzon

Are you talking about the audio side? If so what org? Depending on what is going on, I may be able to help out. MECA's cost went up 5x. Yea, not sure what they were thinking. I made a few calls to see what was going on and of course I got a different answer from each person I spoke with. I'm going to call Ron today and see about a few different options. I know one option would be to consider USACi if he wants. I can make some interesting things happen with that option. All though with such a short notice for this year who knows what would happen with the turn out. Wow, i need to keep you on my close contact list of audio people, Yea, we knew about this since last November... if i only knew then what i know now, you know? hehe Yea, if you caould get any league in there, that would make MANY people happy. PS- who all do you have connections with league-wise?

Are you talking about the audio side? If so what org? Depending on what is going on, I may be able to help out. MECA's cost went up 5x.

really? awesome man, pm me your number. I'm in PRP. I don't care how slow you are, hehe... The build consists of mental work mainly and very few areas of holding a 2x4.. simple yet effective.

Some interesting news.. I have found someone local who will start helping me with this new build.. YES!!! So i wil be able to resume the build pretty soon. Also.. He will be able to save me lots fo money by switching to Geico.. and install my Air struts too.. Yay!

i should be there helping out

What part of south FL you from?

So, it's not doing it now? Seems to me like electrical issue if it randomly just fixed itself.. Remember everything you have ever done to your vehicle electrical-wise and go back and check all ground and power connections. Also.. if you are using standard battery terminals, unhook them both, apply a light brushing to the terminals(not harsh) all the way around including the terminals that the wire goes into and then reconnect them.

many amps are RATED to handle voltage as low as 8.5-9.5v but rarely will it ever hold up if it requires a lot of current to back it up that isn't there..

Works up to? I hope it doesn't work under 8.5v, lol..

The exact same thing i was about to say.. Clipping indicator, i believe, is solely triggered by AC voltage. So.. if you REALLY wanna know what's goin on.. go out to your car when the temperature is negative hot, lol.. play a song until the clipping light just starts to become visible. While song is playing, measure AC voltage at speaker terminals. Do not use peak, just watch it and remember the numbers u see on these bass lines. Now.. wait for it to "warm up" and at same volume, do it again. See if the voltage has dropped. Also, if i'm not mistaken, clipping lights are very accurate if using them to monitor test tones only.

there is just something with the opening of that sealed chamber that is going to restrict the performance of these 18s... Sometimes when i design walls, I have to alter where the port will be at because even though the internal wall volume is still the same, the path at which it takes to reach the port can sometimes be a tight fit, squeeze... And i've intentionally built an enclosure like this before to see what would happen and it acted exactly like i had no extra volume left when in fact i did.. So.. what i'm saying is.. is no, i wouldn't do it.

Almost any sub out there can take 6,000w, lol.. Almost any sub in the right install can break a 150, single sub. Snoopdan used to run 2 Adassa Warlord 5kw until they both went kapoof.. and never heard about them again.. A sub that costs less than 350 to the customer... NO WAY can it handle 6kw daily! Maybe for 15-25 seconds.. but that's it. You'd be 100000000000% better off getting a Zcon if u want to throw some massive power to a sub for a good price to performance ratio.

to answer ur original question, yes 1/0 CCA is definitely better than 4awg ofc. CCA takes a hit on electrical conductivity but not by 50% or more.

You try any Corona lately Tirefryr?

Then it sounds like any form of microphone would work. Perhaps it's not reading off.. it's just measuring within it's specification. You could talk directly to Wayne about it and see what he recommends for a low budget.

I'm just letting you know that "RTA" is a broadband RTA and not an actual RTA that many people may think it is. Don't get me wrong, it can still do it's job like an RTA would.. Just not suppose to be used to measure individual frequencies. I'm still curious how the broadband RTA plugs up because i have a broken termlab linkbox disassembled and sensor laying right here. I've never messed with the broadband RTA so i do not know how it works with the Termlab software. With a little engineering, you can get any like meter to work with other companies software.. but simple plug n play usually doesn't work. And the Termlab link box is specifically for Termlab products, curious how the broadband RTA interfaces with PC.

No, hehe. Termlab calibrations are used by more than just Termlab products.. Several companies use them in fact and can boast identical results to Termlab. However, for the OP's scenario.. I would "think" only the Termlab RTA can be used. Do you know how the Termlab RTA mic plugs up? If it plugs up via the link box then you MUST use theirs as it must run through Instacal for proper connection. The Termlab RTA is a broadband mic too so KEEP THAT IN MIND! Normal RTA Meters that you see sold cheap like Radio shack's inventory, for example are standard cheap rtas that peak at 130-140db with loose accuracy. A Broadband mic is used to measure higher than normal RTAs (120-140db peak).. Termlab's goes up to 156db.. which is.. ok. One thing you must know about broadband mics is they are NOT as tight on accuracy as a mic calibrated to the precision of a Termlab. This is because they are not to be specifically used to measure individual frequencies. That's why they are called "broadband". They are suppose to be used to measure in ranges, not by frequency. If i'm not mistaken, Termlab doesn't actually sell an RTA that specifically measures individual frequencies. OP, i hope this fills in some gaps of info for you. Let us know the results of what you find.

It's called a Circular saw, not a skill saw. For cutting metal, I use a portable bandsaw but for limited space, that's impossible to use as it's much bigger than a jigsaw. You can use a Dremel MultiMax. It's extremely portable and used to get in tight places. I've got practically every tool possible here and if i don't, the shop has the rest, lol.. including plasma cutters and so on.

Not on these amps because they start up in protect mode first to prevent turn on pop. So if that were happening, it would cycle in and out of protect

through the port would be great. Typically, if i don't do that, i feed directly through a wall and silicone the hell out of it.

me personally never use bolts because it adds resistance... But because you are.. did u glue or threadlock the nuts inside the box? Locknuts are not strong enough(at least in my builds) to hold on inside enclosure by itself. Possible u just barely have a connection in there.

if both come back fine, put a cd in and play forever until u think the cd playback is fine. Sometimes, my ipod would crash on certain formatted songs or in ur case, it may be glitching based on how the mp3 is formatted... Or possibly the link cable (i hope not) is damaged. Just some more possibilities.

also other things that can cause it- IS your cd skipping? Does your headunit have Bluetooth enabled? Is your REMOTE LINE connected good at amp and at headunit?

sounds like rca issue. If this happens extremely frequent, then connect a phone or mp3 player directly into amp and play and see if it does it with that device. If it never does, then either your rca cables, rca input stage on amp or headunit preouts are damaged.

If you are going to purchase your own hard drives, MAKE SURE you have the proper interface adapter, IF necessary. I know on the older laptops, the IDE based hard drives required you hang onto the factory adapter when swapping hard drives. Otherwise, you will never get them to work, lol. Newer laptops that use SATA, this shouldn't be a problem.