shizzzon

only 23 days left! Bluetooth meters will be sold out and not restocked until beginning of next year..

I own 12 of 17 software applications that was used to design and create the movie Avatar so if you ever need some software names for your 3D modeling, just let me know.. I have a pretty big list of capabilities.

haha, you going to tell me to quit trollin. You must not know who i am. You must also not believe i have no information to help you.. Ok then.. i'll do as you ask. From this day forth... believe that you must break in your subs because it was clearily the subs fault that it wasn't broken in...

how about.. It doesn't matter.. Just find you an amp or amp combo that matches your setup and goals.. Unless you have some trickery up your sleeve for competition use, doesn't matter.

then you need to do more research.... Turning up the gain on an amp only makes a sub so loud.. then it starts to get less output.. only because of excessive clipping at high volume that's why we always say gain is not volume knob. Secondly.. you do not have to break in a sub.... So.. you still have some time to get this experience down.

i know in turbo-ed vehicles, it's common for them to backfire if the catalytic converter is still installed. or should i say aftermarket.. i'm sure it's a tuning or exhaust sizing issue.

it doesn't.. hmm.. Maybe you have cookies turned off? lol, just had too. There are ways manufacturers can bring a battery back to life, see if Kinetik can if it's still under warranty.

all u need is a dmm, some test tones and your eyeballs

i dont use rule of thumb so the proper way would be to measure and test the crossover points yourself as that will answer your question.

lol... POW!

Ze build wil neva zie!

Google Sketchup

i had 560lbs of weight in the back of my scion tc in my last wall build. Single layer mdf wall, triple baffle, 4 15s (29lbs per) 7 amps (110lbs) and only 2 batts. If you can somehow install your batts under the face of the wall, rear floorboard safely and securely, that helps a LOT too.

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You shifted your peak greatly for it to drop that much on a meter, sounds like it peaked lower. OP- your current box in the truck is nice! Honestly, have you tried increasing tuning for the box? I don't think the box is large enough for that low tuning... IF you are willing to increase box size or are regardless, i would keep the 15 and just go bigger.

That's a mistake from whoever uploaded those pics. That's from another car.. a BMW perhaps. Look at the rest of the pics- All pics but the engine pic is taken with car in driveway... Then the engine pic is taken while in the grass and a tree behind it when there is no tree in the other pics. I own a tc and EVERYTHING under the hood in that pic is different, including the frame work around the hood so can't be same car.

interesting.. sounds like sloppy firmware code for such strict requirements. Damn those who never test the hardware before marketing it..

I use Audacity for basic things but Goldwave for everything else.

lol, surprised their is a juggalo glossary online, lol... It only means something to those you know\knew what it meant. No need to know about it... Means nothing to those who didn't know what it meant prior.

just one at a time. MMFCL is a term meant for people who already know what it means....

Please note- Just because you have a dvd player in your car, that doesn't mean it supports DVD-MP3! To burn mp3s on dvd disc, you simply burn as data ISO. There is no such thing is dvd-mp3 format... It's simply data format, ISO. If it doesn't work, either it doesn't support it, or the media is unsupported... Burn a copy of a dvd on that media and see if it plays. If it does, then it's not the media! DVD players, when it sees dvd disc, will immediately assume it's a move and looks for the VIDEO_TS folder. If the HU doesn't support DVD-MP3s, then when the folder is missing(obviously it would be) then it fails to read disc... IF you find out it's not your media, go online and try and see if anyone has been able to get DVD-MP3 discs to work on this HU. "MAYBE" there is a way to flash the firmware inside which could support it... But you'd have to do research on that to find out.

Someone asked me this and I noticed it wasn't posted here so here it is- EVERY Meter that is purchased through SPL-Lab USA, including this group buy, carries a 1yr warranty period. I will start the warranty period for group buys approximately 1 week after your order has been shipped out for delivery.

no no no.. I'm trying to help you sync your voltage up from front to back as you have stated is not in sync. When you have a load, you will have higher voltage(then will be compensated at the same time and drop due to current demand) Your vehicle isn't "stupid", you are just wanting a higher voltage when there is no high load and it's not necessary all the time... HOWEVER, this could lead to not keeping the batts maintained... And since you have stated just 2 D3100s drop below 12v, i believe it's already happening! So, you need something to force the vehicle to charge higher. You need to be charging between 14.4-14.9v in the back! So, you will need these cable runs REGARDLESS! Then, contact DC Power or Mechman for a voltage increase solution.

13.8 is typical for economy use. Voltage being higher after load, sounds like computer controlled regulator. From what i understand, there is no way around it in terms of keeping voltage high all the time even when there is no load.

Here is another video showing SPL-Lab software capabilities currently in more detail. (Yes, there is 30sec averaging built into the software but I didn't want to record 30sec straight to show it) REMEMBER! Group Buy ENDS OCT 10th, 2011. Please do not forget!