imhungnurnot

Your faith is misconstrued. 4x6's are pretty much terrible across the board. Alright, so should I try a pair of mli-65's with SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter in the kicks? I would do the doors, but I don't want to ruin my doorpanels. The truck is a 90, and the interior is in awesome shape.

Exactly, I really hate it when noobs try to say otherwise. my bad.. I just figured if you were playing a BL to its full potential it would be louder than a BTL that isn't getting pushed so hard.

BTW, i did a 140.4 at the kick and 139.9 at the windshield with both windows down. Only 1000 wRMS with shitty electrical so probably more like 800 watts. Like the video?

My bad y'all. I forgot I even started this. I was up real late one night when I tried originally. lol Well anyway how do you post a video?????? I tried to post the embedded player from youtube, but it didn't work. How do you upload a video to this bitchhh????

2 BTLs are gonna laugh at 3kw so go with 2 BLs with that power. If you don't know about sundown, they are known for making rated power even with low voltage. Sundown amps shit on CEA qualifications. Yea, what are your max external dimensions so we can figure out if you need 12's or 15's.

Interesting. I was just curious.

Free air it to try to see where the noise is coming from. Also, smell the motor/voice coil area and see it smells burnt. If it smells burnt and the sound is coming from the voice coil, then you probably were sending clipped power to your sub which got it hot and slightly deformed your voice coil. Or you may have your SSF set too low and you tore your spider(s). Take it out of the box and check it out.

I noticed that the BL differs between the two options on Fi's website. Do they perform the same? I see that they are almost exact in sensitivity. How does this work if the motors are different strengths (different BL's)??

Mounting depth shouldn't be an issue because I have a cutout in the sheet metal behind the kicks. I could position the speakers so the magnets go into those cutouts. I'd like to scrap the 4x6's, but I just invested in some infinity's. I don't believe one component set crossed actively could be as loud at 4 4x6's. As for the drivers, Mach 5's have a pretty nice xmax (5.5mm). The dayton's are only 3mm. Also, the Mach 5's can handle more power... What to do, what to do?

Are they almost ready to be shipped out?

Depends if I have the time to fiberglass them. I've never glassed anything before but I may give it a shot. I just think the q-logics will match my interior better. I mean I would paint the ones I make, but the texture will not be the same as the rest of my interior.

About 40 bucks per driver. Cross the hpf on the HU pretty low and run the front rca's to my amp for the mid basses. Then get the rca output off of that amp and run them to my amp for the 4x6s and set the hpf on the amp to about 125 Hz. 60ish-350ish with approximately 75 watts @ 4 ohms There isn't much room my kick panels. I still want leg room. I'm considering Q forms, but I may build them.

I'm interested in adding a pair of 6.5" midbass drivers to my kick panels. The 4x6's aren't cutting it in the midbass section. I like the mach 5 mli65's and Dayton DC160S's. I'm up to suggestions other than these two drivers. Any suggestions?

Alright, well it looks like I will go with the alpine. Has anyone ever used Alpines "Imprint" software/mic with their HU's? Does it make a big difference in sound quaility?

I currently have a CDA-9855, but the CD player is starting to skip rather easily. I want to know what would be some good HUs. I'd like it to have HPFs and a LPF with adjustable slopes,2 way and 3 way xovers, graphic eq and/or parametric eq, time correction, full speed ipod/iphone capability. I think the 9887 is nice but does anyone have experience with them as well as "imprint"? Thanks

well I was planning on having a compartment for the sub then have another with the port seperated by a thin compartment all are connected of course. Or use aero ports so I don't need the port compartment. And 8 inch. Is a rough guesstament could you elaborate?

This is my old setup. I just never posted the video... edit.. not sure how to upload video, will try again tomorrow <object width="580" height="360"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/v/CwJxcMqSNsk&hl=en_US&fs=1&border=1"></param><param'>http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/v/CwJxcMqSNsk&hl=en_US&fs=1&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/v/CwJxcMqSNsk&hl=en_US&fs=1&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="580" height="360"></embed></object>

personally, i think you're bullshittin "bruh"...

im planning on having the sub and port facing the hatch of the trunk, i think like 8 is the max width in the center because of my spare tire. the max length is 35 and hight is 16. i would upload a sketch of what i want but photobucket wont let me upload anything. thats only 1.83 cuft.. you could get a 10 instead of a 12 or build the box big enough to go over the spare, but move the spare to another location in the trunk... maybe you could build the box so that it partially sits over the spare tire so you are able to move it whenever you need your spare

Well my problem is that I want room for my spair tire but I would have to make a really weird box and even with external ports I don't know if it will fit. I don't know how long they would be and if I could have like 2 but have then be short but still keep my tuning. I was already told the length of one but that seemed to long. I'll know for sure when I actualy start to get legitamit box designs. Keep in mind if you design a really weird shaped box, make sure its not too oddly shaped because the extra volume gained by the weird shape may not be "usable" volume. For example.. you have a cube with side lengths of 12 inches.. this yields one cubic foot of volume.. lets say you need 2 cubes total. You decide to add a rectangular box coming off of the side of the enclosure.. 4x4x108... (this is very exaggerated) so this will give you the 2 cubes needed but not much air, if any, is going to be flowing in the weird part of the box.. so in the end the speaker will only be able to use about 1 cube of the 2 cubes.. But anyway, what are your max external dimensions and where do you want the sub and port firing?

Since he's looking to save room he may be interested in the aero port.. but you may only save bout .5 cuft or so..

Sweet! What series is it? I'm just curious.. I have a 9512g

Using the calculator Aero Port Calculator I found that you need 23.625" straight length of port and 24.625" flare length port required.

From my understanding they are identical, but it is easier to get more port area with a slot port. You're going to need between 30-40 square inches of port area using the rule of 12-16 square inches of port area per cub of volume. Although, if you use a aero port, you can use 50%-75% of the recommended port area. This is because aero ports are flared, and the flares reduce air turbulence in the port. So you can use less port area (which increases vent air speed) but since aero ports reduce air turbulence, the increase in air speed will not result in port noise. The rule of 12-16 square inches of port area is actually a lot of port area. This large amount of port area is needed to reduce air speed in the port so you don't have port noise. Since aero ports reduce air speed in the port (compared to a slot port with the same port area as the aero port), you can use less port area with an aero port. So in your case 23-30 square inches of port area with an aero port (calculation: 75% of 30 and 40) so a 6" diameter areo port with according length for your tuning. Also, using less port area with the aero port will yield less volume displaced by the port than a regular slot port. So in the end you will need a smaller enclosure using an aero port.

Well the saz 2500 should be more than enough power for the sub. I guess i'll wait on the new box until i can put some real power on the sub and see how it sounds