imhungnurnot

No, it won't help you because you don't want a fart box i think? How much power do you have? I would suggest 2.2cu ft with about 40-44 sq inches of port area tuned to 34 hz if u want to get loud and be 'somewhat' musical. right now i have it in a box with 2.6cuft with 42 square inches of port that is 22 inches long.. which turns out to be around 38 Hz after end correction. It is pretty musical as of now but I can tell the sub isn't traveling through its entire excursion. Maybe I don't have enough power on it.. i have about 1400 RMS on it (before voltage drop and box rise) and the sub is a 1500 RMS sub.. But I just pre-ordered the SAZ-2500D!! I'm not really looking for a burp box. I was thinking tuning to 33 and adding the mach5 6.5 inch midbass drivers to my kickpanels if necessary. I'm lacking in the midbass area as it is so i will probably need the mach5 drivers. If 33 Hz sounds good, then i would like to discuss sub/port firing options.

BUMP

Great post, Thanks!

I want to design a ported enclosure with one DD9512g to put in my single cab chevy 1500. I want it to be loud, but also as musical as possible. I have about 3.3 cuft to work with. The enclosure is going to be a center console enclosure. If I find the frequency which my vehicle peaks at, will this help me choose my tuning frequency of my enclosure?

Interesting..

Do any of these designers take cabin gain into account?

Has anyone ever heard of this guy? And are his designs worth the money? His website is: PWK Designs

Never. I was going to strap my two mm1400.1d's that I bought used. Both of them have power up/power off "pop". One operates fine other than that. The other keeps going into protect running it at 1 ohm. Maybe something is burnt up inside.. I might take the cover off to get a better look at it.

It is 20.15" long -- height and width = all other SAZ amps. Just sent the payment!! Hopefully this beast will prove to be a good investment!

That's messed up GlassWolf, but anyway.. Do you get more output as you decrease air velocity in the port? (even if its too small of an increase to hear; i.e. theoretically)

I have an autotek mm1400.1d on a DD 9512g wired at one ohm. I set the gain using the pinned tutorial above. I bought the amp used, and my voltage hasn't dropped below 12.5 volts yet.. it usually hovers around 13-13.5 volts. Also, the amp doesn't seem to be getting too hot either. Could the problem be that the amp is damaged? Thanks

or... you could do it right and say hey.. re says my box is tuned to 35hz with 2.5cuft... so instead of building that exact box.. simply extend one of the dimensions (preferably width so the port area is not compromised) to compensate for your sub displacement.. if you sub displaces .1 cuft or 172.8 cuin.. set up an equation 172.8=W*H*D.. wel you know H and D (use internal dimensions by subtracting 2*thickness of wood from external dimensions) and the W you find will be the length needed to be added to the width of the box.. After it's all said and done you will still have the desired box.. 2.5cuft at 35hz i may have made this seem more complex than it really is.. but it works

That has nothing to do with it. No, the decreased port area won't have any affect on output so long as the area is still sufficient to keep the air velocity through the port down. That's really how more port area (such as in a slot port) helps you, by decreasing air velocity through the port. So if your port velocity is 13 m/s with a 100 sq. inch slot port and 13 m/s with 60 sq. inches of aero port, there should be no difference. THANKS!!!!! So you get more output as you decrease port air velocity? (even if its too small of an increase to hear; i.e. theoretically)

Will the 50-75 percent reduction in port area result in a decrease in output? No it will not, do to the smaller enclosure size ??? wouldn't the enclosure only be smaller due to the smaller displaced volume of port? so you would still use the same internal volume after sub and port displacement has been subtracted? correct? so the "net" volume would be equal but the "gross" volume would be smaller.. right?

The knowledgeable members in your other thread told you there was nothing risky about it. The ONLY risk of damaging something in these two scenarios is by trying to run the amps under their rated impedance, there is absolutely ZERO risk of damaging equipment running one amp per coil. Well I want to be sure that it isn't risky before I do it. The more advice the better!

This is true..... I've seen it done several times. The hitch is making sure that you have the output on both amps matched as closely as possible. Which requires a DMM and some patience as you'll have to set your gains together and at every step making sure the voltage matches. "at every step".. what does this mean? at every frequency?

But shouldn't it still be okay once box rise come into affect? and i'm not sure about putting one amp on each coil because one has been used more than the other..

Will the 50-75 percent reduction in port area result in a decrease in output?

I hear that areo ports "trick" the box into thinking that it actually has more port area than it actually has. Is there some type of calculation so I can figure out the effective port area of an Aero Port? Thanks

What are the dimensions of this amp? I'd love to get one but i'm not sure where I can put it..

I have a DD 9512 (dual 2 ohm) and two Autotek MM1400.1D's. I wanted to run each amp on each coil at first, but I was told this is actually pretty risky and it is a lot safer to strap the amps together.. The only dilemma is that once strapped.. the amps will only be stable at 2 ohms.. but dual 2 ohm drivers can only be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohm.. if i can keep the voltage between 13.5 and 14 volts at the amps, will it be safe to put a 1 ohm load on the set of strapped amps?

WALL SOCKET!!!!

Why so high though? Many people on here tune below 35. DD recommends the high tuning, Why? I have no idea .... built a box 2.52 cuft @ 36Hz and it slams!

Why so high though? Many people on here tune below 35.

BUMP