imhungnurnot

IMO, i think you're a retard for doing that... but illumination will not have an effect on the dome light.. illumination is just so your lights on your radio will dim when you turn your headlights just like all the other lights do in any vehicle No, that is the dimmer. Illumination lighting is for the lights on the stereo to come on with the vehicle lights, but you have to remember, not every vehicle's illumination works the same. As for the retard comment, I'll play nice. Hmm, well I don't think i have a dimmer wire on my harness. But thanks.. but its really not worth it if you're trying to connect all of the speaker wires to.. If all you're doing is the constant positive and accessory positive with a dedicated ground, that's not a bad idea.. but a friend of mine wanted help installing his radio because he couldn't get it to work... TURNS OUT HE CUT ALL OF THE WIRES ON THE STOCK HARNESS.. lol yeaa so i had a BADDDD experience trying to fix that.. so thats the reason my "retard" comment came out so quickly.. lol

IMO, i think you're a retard for doing that... but illumination will not have an effect on the dome light.. illumination is just so your lights on your radio will dim when you turn your headlights just like all the other lights do in any vehicle

YES! Lol, I was waiting for someone to comment on this. But anyway, the sub looks wild.. I'd like to get one, but getting the power to back up subs like this would be the problem for me. I might get a pair of BL's to put on my SAZ 2500

If you put some "chasing" led's on the back of that motor, then you'll have the FLUX CAPACITOR!!!!!! Back to the Future FTW!

Figure you net volume and plug it into a calculator and see what it is.. If you want it to be tuned a little higher, take a inch or two off of the port then. Now recalculate the net volume (will be larger than before), and plug it into a calculator. If its tuned too high for your liking, do the same process, just take off less port length in the beginning

I'm guessing you have a dual two ohm woofer.. if so, you might as well try to find a 2000 watt amp. When you strap the two 1000s, the lowest recommended ohm load for a daily driver is 2 ohms. With your dual 2 ohm woofer, you can wire it to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. If you hook it up at 4 ohms to the strapped 1000s, you'll only get around 1000 watts. If hook it up at 1 ohm to the strapped 1000s, each amp will be seeing a .5 ohm load which will void the manufacturer warranty, but you'll have 2000+ watts before imp. rise. But then again, people run .5 ohm loads on sundowns daily.. lol if you want to run this low ohm load, you need to have stout electrical system to lower the chances that you will damage your amps and possibly the sub. So how's your electrical?

One thing I could think of for the strapped set up is that sundown mixed the br in with the br out and vise-versa. This is a problem with some of the newer SAZ 1500s. I ran into this problem. To test, play a tone/music so that the bass is audible. Turn off radio, unplug the linking rca from the master, turn the radio back on and see if the volume of the bass is the same or quieter. If it is quieter, then you have them strapped right. If it is the same, then try to plug the linking rca into the "br in" on the master amp instead of the "br out." Also, plug the linking rca into the "br out" of the slave amp instead of the "br in." This will make a world of difference. Ha going from one amp to two amps makes a difference!!!

I was driving last night, and I thought I heard some RCA Noise. So turn the volume down on the HU, put the truck in neutral, and rev the engine. Sounds like a tiny bit of RCA noise. So I say to myself, "Oh well." Ten minutes later I realized the sound was coming from under the hood... Looks like I have a cracked power steering pump pulley. The noise is really loud now so it may be more than that. AHH that's what you get with a 20 year old truck! Hopefully, nothing else is damaged. I'm gonna try to replace the pulley today. We'll see how it goes!

OFC 1/0? What does OFC mean? I have Streetwires 1/0. Will OFC be printed on the insulator coating of the wire if it is indeed "OFC" wire?

Damn, I forgot.. I been sending you texts.. lol let me know when you get your phone

What will you be doing with the SAZ 2500D after you get your SAZ 3500D? I may be interested in buying it so I can strap it with my SAZ 2500D that i just got!

did you not read what i just posted? i even gave a link! lol sorry man, we posted so close together in time that i didn't see your post.. or maybe i didn't have my page refreshed.. ha my bad dude

Well yea, a 250 by the amp and a 300 coming off the the battery under the hood. Just for the fact that i'll be running the 100.4 off of the same power wire

x2 How much for (2) 7'' carbons and (2) tweeters??? Also, how to order?

Because it needs 250 amps of fusing - that is alot of fuses to put in an amp Also it is an SPL competition amp and when you run an amp down really low it tends to blow internal fuses. Yes, fuse it shortly before the amp. Ahhh I SEE! lol, I'll be running the SAZ 2500 along with the SAX 100.4. So should I fuse my power wire off of my battery under the hood with a 300 amp fuse assuming i'll have that amperage available? (which I won't until I get an alternator, but i have a Deka Intimidator 9a31 in the back for now). The real question is can you starve your amps of power if you don't have a big enough fuse on the power wire?

So I got my 2500D, and I just realized that it doesn't have an internal fuse. So what to do? Fuse the + lead about a foot from the amp? Why doesn't it have a built in fuse anyway? Just wondering.

lol, well i had an issue with a not getting a tracking number earlier this week.. I can wait to get the meter! I'll finally be able to do some worthwhile testing!!

I actually thought about that, but I'm planning to buy a new truck. Also, I didn't realize how massive the SAX 100.4s are. I ordered one last week not thinking about the size because four channels are usually pretty small. HA well i saw one today in a buddies van.. FREAKING HUGE lol

Will each buyer be emailed once our meter has shipped with a tracking number?

If you do that, you're going to take a chunk out of the glass when it falls off. Too late for that. lol It pulled a chunk of glass out when it came off at Scrapin.

Hmm. Could be, after the truck was wrecked the windshield didn't fit quite right. But its in there and it doesn't leak, and i'm not about to try to bend the cab back to its original shape. lol

So after I installed my DD 9512g, its been knocking off my rear view mirror. I think this is the fourth time that it has came off. Its really not that loud to be doing this. It came off at Scraping the Coast 2010 and it took a piece of the windshield with it!!!!! I always use permatex extreme adhesive. I don't know what else to do now. Any ideas? Im thinking it might be due to the vibration in my floor translating to the windshield. My floor vibrates a lot along with my side mirrors and door panels.

Sounds like you should see if your rca's are plugged in! Less likely, the speaker wire came loose somewhere. However, anything can and will happen.

So your saying this Fi Q12 couldn't reach 140 db? No, I'm saying you picked the wrong woofer to chase numbers with. I never said anything about not being able to do it. Good luck, though. My buddy has 2 15 Qs on 2200rms and was doing 143s. I'd be very impressed to see a single 12 do 140s. My buddy had a single 12 Q running a 139 windows up on the windshield with a TL. This was in an extended cab Toyota Tacoma. I'm sure he broke 140 with the windows down. I think he had about 1200 RMS on the sub, and the box was something like 2.6 cuft tuned to 33. The funny thing is that he now has a BTL 15. So if you want loud, just get a BL or BTL now. Also, my DD 9512g did a 140.4 in the kick with about 1100 watts after voltage drop. With a better designed box, better electrical, and my pre-ordered SAZ 2500. I'm shooting for 144s!

Just read the noob proof tutorial pinned to this section of the forum.. It was pinned because it was useful.. so READ!