Quentin Jarrell

Just wait till this time next year.

That's because you have a lot of people here with experience and enough common sense to educate themselves.

I know exactly what you are talking about. I have several Hifonics amps that do the same thing. These amps just don't do rated power. I removed them and put in two IA 20.1's and the problem went away.

Do a blow thru with the subs in the tool box

So you need amplifiers to run your 10 speakers and a amp to run the sub? I'd get a 4 channel for the tower so you can turn them off independently from the boat speakers. If the sub is 8 ohm I'd get a four channel and bridge the back channels for the sub and run two of the six speakers on the front channels. And get a four channel for the remaining four speakers.

Yea, I was speaking of car environment. It's hard to get 100 or 200 hertz to wrap around when the speaker is a few feet from you. But of course there are exotic coaxials that help with the problem.

It is always better to mount in a MT configuration over a coaxially mounted tweeter. Tweeters mounted in front of a mid is the largest contributor to errors in frequency response in speaker design.

Sure they'll fit. The packaging they come in is only around 2.5 ft^3

The cost of a Zenon AB is much lower than D class. Most lower power monos will be AB because they are cheaper to manufacture

Link to build ?

Not sure of the rms of those drivers but for reference my Tacoma xrunner had 48 6.5's on its undercarriage and was ran off of 10 50 watt x4 amps. I could run it full tilt all day using 3 oddysey 1500 batteries and a 60 amp power supply.

Why MMT and not MTM on the hT box. And which Mids and tweeters?

Because its different and not what other people would like or want. Some people like a clam shell with 15 12's. some people like a shit ton of highs. I personally don't see the difference. They are both on the extreme side of the spectrum boardering on insane. But it's what people like and enjoy. Who are we to say its just plain dumb. If it keeps the industry thriving and keeps people entertained then I'm all for it even though it might not be what I'd personally do for myself.

They need to pull that site down ASAP and contact LFNTN. Their first impression doesn't look so good

http://www.toolaid.com/content/wire-stripper

Seem legit, Im looking to get some proper strippers for work and they seem to work quick and very well, where can I get a pair like this and what brand are they? I'll look when I get home. I think they are Tool Aid.

Even a shit ton of caps don't work. Mark Fukuda experimented with them back in the early 90's. back then there weren't batteries like today so he had 6 huge custom battery cells custom built to reduce resistance versus multiole batteries. He then added something like 150 10 farad caps ( cant recall the exact number) and lost db's versus the cells alone.

350 or 327 block?

These are the best strippers ever built. The below pair are over 10 years old with 5 years worth of 40 hour work weeks doing 10-20 headunit installs a day.

I'd just run em free air and hook a 4th order crossover to em.

80 ft^2 is a shit ton of deadener for one small sedan.

In New Orleans. We have drive thru (fast food type) daquari shops that serve in styrofoam cups with lids. Louisiana law states that as long as the straw isn't inserted into the lid it is technically an UNOPENED container.

At system tuning the box acts like a sealed box. And directly above and below tuning the sub will show spikes in excursion. Thermal power rating is a set rating. Normally it's a 100 kelvin increase of coil temperature. It's the temperature that the coil can withstand without falling apart. Typically the glue that holds it together is what fails and not the wire itself. However, an enclosure will affect the rate at which the coil will heat up. The major contributor to coil heating is insufficient port area. A port that is too small will cause nonlinearies in the system that creates inductance in the coil which in turn creates inductance heating which increases coil temperature. Extensive Klippel and Leap testing has been done on this by Pat Turnmire and Vance Dickason. Some of which can be seen in Vance's Cookbook.

Still has nothing to do with a melted fuse holder. Even if your system was using a regulated power supply the fuse would just blow due to too much current. I'll stick to what I said before. It was either a faulty fuse used from the amp kit or the wire wasn't tighten well in the fuse holder. If the same person that did the install told you it's the alternators fault they are trying to cover up their mistakes or they are just plain ignorant.

So this is a northern thing? This place is in Sulphur, Louisiana. On the coast about 20-30 miles from Texas line.