Quentin Jarrell

hell wrong section. MODS DELETE THIS THREAD

Highs are just like subs. Some are designed for IB, some sealed, some ported, ect. Some are gonna work better on axis, some off axis. You already stated that you know where you want/need them to go. So you'll have to figure out what will work in that location in conjunction of what type of enclosure you'll use.

It's gonna depend on the speakers.

Got a test tone cd? If I recall your f3 was around 28-29. Play 25 hetz test tone at a lower volume and adjust your subsonic filter until they start to unload then back up a hair. Then adjust up just a tad with music if need be.

The type r and type x have two different sounds I guess you could say. The type x was/is outsourced/designed by Scanspeak. Sound is a personal preference so I couldn't tell you if it's a better buy.

Bc most every sound board is designed to have speakers located on axis and manufactures know this. So most manufacturers will spend a lot of time making sure a soeaker has great on axis response sometime sacrificing off axis responce. Because if it dont sound good in the sound room more than likely you wont buy it. In a vehicle the sound can be completely different.

The box is an air spring. So the bigger the box, the looser the spring, the less power it takes to move the speaker. And vise versa. Although there are formulas to calculate this. (I actually have worksheets for MathCad that can calculate Rms power it would take for sub with a given suspension and moving massto reach xmax in any giving enclosure volume.) most manufactures never give out this info. The only one I can think of that did was Adire.

The correct way a sub is rated is it is tested over a period of time until the subs t/s parameters changes in a way that it would hinder its operation as tared by its parameters But you have to ask the question what exactly does the rating means as nearly no one states this clearly. Is it a rms thermal rating, is it the above, or is it a rms rms musical rating like it sounds like you are asking. And if it's a musical rating what type and size of enclosure bc that will affect how much the sub will take.

It may be newer but it had no material for noise reduction what so ever. A few pieces strategically placed for resonance but literally nothing between the carpet and sheet metal if the car for road noise. It's now a night and day difference.

200 bucks is hella expensive when you can get a 60 amp power supply for 225. Batter tender does what it is designed to do, tend the battery, not charge the battery overnight because you don't have a proper alternator or battery bank on your vehicle. Battery Tender is proven to work over many months on rv's, boats and such and they come with a ten year replacement warrantee.

Yea they make one that's water proof. Mine was a normal one. It has a quick disconnect plug with ring terminals on the other end. The battery on the gen two viper is in the rear quarter panel so you have to remove the tire to get to it. So I mounted the disconnect plug on the undercarriage so I had easy access to it.

The battery tender is not a charger. It is used to maintain a battery by keeping it charged over periods of time from storage and such. For example my stock 2000 viper would drain a brand new odyssey 1500 in two weeks if I didn't drive it. With the Tender I kept the same battery in the car for five years until I sold it and the battery still tested and worked fine when I sold the car.

http://batterytender.com/?gclid=CPi284bLgbMCFRRynAod8kcAYg I used this on my Viper (and most other owners do). Vipers are known for phantom computer draws that'll kill a battery in a few weeks.

Take a logical approach to the situation. The subs are on the same amp right? You have already made sure the coils are in phase? You have checked to make sure both coils are working and energized? If so then the sub is not broken. Do nothing but swap the subs around in the box. If the new sub in the same spot is still moving more or "unloading" it's just poor box design.

Most highend vehicles use close cell foam 1 to 2 inches thick under the carpet. I have a distributor I buy from locally that sells a mass loaded mat made for high end home theater installs. In my 2010 civic road noise was horrible. I lined the entire floor, up the fire wall, completely stuffed the void between the door panels and inside door skins and between the rear deck and the deck paneling. Now it's as quiet as a 7 series BMW.

^^^ yep yep

The trick isn't to prove to someone that they need something. The trick is to get someone with clout to get there branding behind it.

A grand is way way expensive. Rane and plenty of other companies have been doing it for decades with EQ's, compressors, and limiters combined for cheaper than that.

"Sound deadened", the sticky stuff with the foil, you think of when you think of sound deadener is not made to keep noise from coming in your vehicle. It is designed to keep panels from resonationg or creating noise from vibration. It's not gonna keep those panels from vibrating, it'll only keep it from resonating. So only put as much as you need to keep it from resonating Then use a mass loaded material to keep noise reduced. It's really common sense. You don't have to completely cover a bell in bubble gum to make it stop resonating it only takes a glob on one spot.

I still say we would make a killing with with a 12 volt limiter with an adjustable threshold. We could even charge extra for a tool to set the threshold.

Discovery Channel has the Red Bull space jump on live with a 20 second delay. At 1050 central time he's currently at 30,500 feet

Components are better bc diffraction from a coaxially mounted tweeter is the biggest cause of response errors. Ideally you want the tweeter and mid as close together as possible. The factory puts the tweeter high up in the door or in the pillar to bring the sound stage up so the sound doesn't seem like its coming from the floor. I'm pretty short and not really a SQ guy so I don't need my staging to sound like it coming off the hood of my car. A little modification to the factory mid location and mounting the tweeter inline with the head unit normally does a decent job of puting staging right above the radio for me.

Call IA leave a message to have one custom made. Tricia normally answers messages promptly.