Quentin Jarrell

In laymans terms it will give you better output o over a broader range.

Im not exactly sure how much as far as port acceleration. (I will be doing Klippel work with different sized ports on high output sub's next spring). But for example my spider pack is roughly 750 grams at one mm. 18,000 grams at 15mm. And about 60,000 grams at 30 mm. So in terms of the amount of force to accelerate the airspring to xmax it increased greatly when compared to small signal parameters.

There is one problem with calculating port Mach with power input like WinIsd does. Nearly all subs now a days use progressive spiders.

K, I gotta see an oncologist and an optimologist today so I'll work on it tonight.

I ain't gonna be responsible for it sounding like shit. (especially since I'm doing it for free). Figure that out and I'll work it up and sketch it fir you.

I'd contact Kevin S. I don't even want to understand the thought process behind manufacture's specs. I do however have a firm grasp on enclosure design and cabin gain. And if those sub's were in my car I'd rather the the 1db gain from 34-50 hertz with an f3 of 29hz versus a loss of 1db gain in the playable range and a f3 of 27hz. Which you will more than likely have your subsonic filter set no lower than 30 hertz anyhow.

Give me all the details.

Yes sir ran in pairs. No sadly I've used up all my vacation time for the year. I already scheduled a week off of the 15th to go to my cabin in gatlinburg before all this mess happened. I even had to cash in a little short term disability. Good news is doctors say I can go back to work on Monday.

Not a problem.

two pieces of 3/4 mdf 4 to 6 inches wide directly between the left sub and the middle sub and between the right sub and the middle sub. run the braces from the top to the bottom to keep the baffle from flexing. If you PM me your email address I can email the sketch up so you can get the measurements off all of the parts of the box.

1.8 cubic feet tuned to 35 hertz 37.5 square inches of port. id put two braces between the subs which i did not put in these drawings.

I'm still confused on what was being tested.

How's ur buddy's building skills? Do you want to 45 the corners and port angles. Or do you just want everything with straight corners so it's easy to build.

They are dc with a built in inverter. At least the 4 that I have that are about 15 years old.

The bit one would a hell of a lot easier to install

http://www.rane.com/me30s.html

Dsp?

Nonlinearities are caused from a tweeter placed infront of a midrange but tons of manufactures still make coaxials. I guess u just gotta pick ur pickle.

Ok repost ur max deminsions. And tell me how much room is between your max depth and the rear hatch. If it's a hatchback you will want to face the port rearward and the subs up.

You'd be in the 250 range. But you'd bet my quality is gonna be hard to beat as most anyone here would agree. But anywho, if it's a trunk car I'd put the port and subs on the same side.

You'd be in the 250 range. But you'd bet my quality is gonna be hard to beat as most anyone here would agree. But anywho, if it's a trunk car I'd put the port and subs on the same side.

And if you're not sure of ur skill set. I might even come out of retirement and build it for you.

As I said in my post two post up it's not a problem. But no I don't have any pre made for those sub's. A day or two ago "Keven S" recommended you to go to a particular designer. Kevin is the owner of Skar. Were they not helpful? Repost ur max external deminsions. And I ASSuME u want the sub's and port facing the same direction?

All joking aside. (the isobaric tubes weren't a joke). If you can't get a design OP. It won't take me but a minute once I'm home to come up with something for you.

No I just can't spell