Quentin Jarrell

It is what it is. Build the port large enough or get port noise. Those eights compress as much if not more than most 10's

Just use the beta version. You won't find all the specs the alpha version needs and it doesn't do that great of a job calculating them. Use 20 inchs^2 of port area for each 8 (if using high output like sundown). With .6 feet^3 per sub your port will need to be about 36" long to tune to 35 hertz

Did you let them cool and re measure.

They can make whatever you want, we use them for our custom one offs for our circle track cars

it look pimpin polished though

I vote go this route http://www.dragonplate.com/ecart/categories.asp?cID=121

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/dcon.html Click the tab that says predesigned enclosures

not enough interest and I have other ventures that will be avaliable soon.

There are some free designs in the store that will work for you.

Most everything I listen to is classic Rock and metal. CCR, Pink Floyd, Metalica, Guns & Roses, ect. You already have pretty good product. I would first do as you planned and deaden the entire car correctly using Don's products "SDS" Then port your current sub. If it's not enough bass then buy another one. I personally like to use Focal polyglass 165 v30. They provide plenty volume and midbass for ME. I have also heard the old Alpine BMW when the x series first came out and they sounded excellent. So if deadened properly you may gain a great deal of midbass and volume.

The music power looks really good, I assume the 3db crest factor is a typo however as it should be 6

If the alt goes poof your voltage will drop instantaneously. A normal battery will only charge to 12.6 volts.

Check out this video on YouTube:

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/mon_air.cfm Something like this.

Everyone I have seen installed loses some air. More than likely you will have to put in a few pounds every couple if weeks. Most boxes ('80's model cars) use aftermarket air shocks to gain a few inches of clearance with big rims when adding bass in the trunk.

12-15 business days

I've always used stoptech rotors with ebc pads. Drilled rotors are not for street use. If they are hot and get splashed with water they will crack.

http://www.stumbleup...e/tour_en.html/ When you enter the showroom click to look into some of the cars

Reasonable deduction would say to try a different source. However I would first hook up only one side of your patchcord to the headunit. Common grounding at the headunit may be causing the ground loop I would also wiggle your sparkplug wires while someone listens to the system. I once had a customer with slight engine noise caused by a bad aftermarket sparkplug wire.

The audiocontrol is a nice piece. However it uses a processor that uses an algorithm to create a series of harmonics to "level off" the bass. It's a great feature but even though bass is nondirectional the higher octave harmonics are. This means when your sub's are on axis the technology works great, but when your sub's are in your trunk for example, the results are greatly deminished. Im not too sure of the going price for one, but this might be something to consider.

Use a PAC sni-15 (loc) on the sub output of the factory amp. Then use a PAC LC-1 (bass knob) in line if the rca's to control the bass. Unless you have sub control in the factory head unit. I know the bang and olufsen has sub control but I'm not sure of the base headunit option.

Generally speaking not true, depending on the sub and airspace you can tune a box to 32 or lower and have an f3 well above tuning And on the other hand you can tune certain set ups in the mid 30's and have a f3 in the low 30's It just depends on the sub and airspace.

I'll take interest in anything as long as the asking price is reasonable.

If you have a blown sub or motor you want to sell send the following to: [email protected] number of subs/motors make model size asking price a few photos of the top bottom and sides THE ONLY EXCEPTION IS I DON'T BUY BROKEN OR SHIFTED MOTORS