Quentin Jarrell

I'll update as soon as I hear from him. This isn't the first driver he has tested for me sometimes he gets a little side tracked with the volume of stuff he has to deal with. I guess it's just one of the down falls of being the ONLY U.S. independent engineer trusted by Klippel themselves to test transducers.

after a few hundred boxes you'll learn you still have more to learn, so don't feel bad.

Perfectly fine.

I am glad to have weekends off again. But I am working a lot of hours. The work is good (so glad to be back in an independent shop atmosphere, I get a nice mix of drivability/electrical, and heavy line work), the weekends off are great, and the pay is pucking amazing. I doubled my pay from my last shop without bonuses, and am making ~25% more then the dealership as a foreman/manager... and while I am the foreman here I am not forced into all the management and paperwork. I have had 2 messes to clean up, and another to look at Monday (sucks that a tech did ~$1200 worth of AC/Dash work and the blend doors are still not responding to HVAC inputs). I do have to say, I am a bit overwhelmed with the Euro shit I get. I had an '06 BMW 530i with a little old lady complaining that she had no AC from the rear vents. She didn't know if it ever worked because she rarely had people sit in the back seat. It had ~20K miles on it. I yanked the center console out (what a PITA) and found a missing duct. I did some research and found a TSB where apparently BMW "forgot" to put this particular duct into several 3 and 5 series Beemers. Does BMW do anything about it? Nope. Does BMW have the part available? Nope. Germany has not released said intermediate duct to the US aftermarket. What can said customer do? Have the shop put the car back together (at her cost, of course), send it to BMW where they will take it apart (at her cost, of course) to determine if my diagnosis was correct, then wait for the part which is on an unspecified backorder (estimated time of delivery, about 45 days)... but only the dealer can get and install this little 8 inch piece of cheap plastic duct that costs almost $500... Did I mention this is all at her cost? They forgot to put the pucking thing in there!!! Fuck BMW. I'd be paying you to go to Home Depot and install some vacuum cleaner home with some duct tape.

That's why I haven't gotten married yet. The ole lady is deaf so legally handicapped. I'm gonna let her Medicaid take care of the baby. In gonna use the system for a change.

you got that right FUCK overtime. Already got over 800 hrs of it this year so far. They can keep it. I'm tired of giving Obama 38% of my time and a half. pucking ridiculous that they penalize you for working more than your fair share.

I've been at this same location since Saturday and it's killing me. Im hoping this boat finishes tomorrow morning. My days off are sat and sun.

so slow around here on a Friday night. Must be nice to have a day or two off.

Does anyone know a site that people can upload songs and videos for sale, kinda like ITunes. This dude at this elevator DJ's part time and has some pretty baddass video mixes.

He was just looking for a free bed, 3 meals a day, and free cable TV. No one is THAT stupid.

The Italian Chow choi (sp?) guy on yahoo foods has a good recipe. Im at work and the recipe is at home but I'm sure you can google, (or rather yahoo) him.

Being the box is basically the same size as the opening of the seat I would face it forward. You won't hear an audible difference from sealing it off. That is called transfer function and it varies in every vehicle and set up. You would have to play around with it to see the difference. If you have a router you can round over the port corners or just sand them down a bit by hand. It won't make much difference since you have adequate port area. If you are assembling with screws make sure you drill pilot holes first. Use tightbond wood glue to assemble it. If you are not using a table saw and the seams are a little jagged you can put a bit of "Liquid Nails" on the seams.

external box measurements: 31" wide 19" deep 12.5" high ~2 cubic feet net tuned to 32 hertz Top and bottom are 31"x19" All other parts are 11" high NOTE: left and right sides are indented .25 inch in case you wanted to wrap the enclosure. 11 1/16 marking is subwoofer cutout. The enclosue is small enough no bracing wont be an issue

so, theses are the diminsions that will slide in from the seat? I'll work with them. through the back seats was 13H x 32W

I would put the sub and the port on the same side of the box so you can face it either forward or backwards in the trunk. With that much output facing forward will more than likely be the best route. An areo port will not work in this situation because will not be able to get enough port area. Although I've built about 50 boxes for XCONs its been about two years so I would have to model it again. However you would want the enclosure at ~ 2 cubic feet tuned to 30-33 hertz. I will have free time from now until midnight tonight. If you are able to measure the max deminsions that will slide in your trunk I can design an enclosure.

You all heard the man Install error!!!! He doesn't have a clue what he's doing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I want the bass to be accurate. I listen to a lot of rock but love the bass from rap/hip hop, bass music. My sealed 12 now has deep good sounding bass and I'm still looking for that but just ok a higher lvl. Due to the qualities of a ported enclosure, when designed so it will always produced more pronounced lower deeper bass. Doing a 12 ported would result in more volume over an xcon 15 sealed and have no audible difference in sound quality.

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What is your definition on SQ. We want to make sue you go the best possible route for what you are trying to achieve.

Superglue the plastic back on that the clip attaches too.

Get a 12 and put it in a ported enclosure.

Wait till you see the Primo sample. ~28mm xmax and 18.4 in^3 (~1.8 lbs) of aluminum faraday rings covering entire coil stroke coupled with MMAG goodness

Also he is making videos of each test (explained about 5 posts up), so I'm sure this is taking a little time as well.

About 24 hrs. I talked to him Monday evening and he said testing might start on Monday evening or Tuesday. He does testing on a few thousand transducers a year, some companies send hundreds at a time, every year. So I try not to aggravate him much. He's normally on the ball so expect to hear from him soon. I have no doubts on the product. At the most, enclosure specs could change by .25 cubic feet and tuning a hertz or two up or down. I've already tested it with a DATS and manually calculating parameters by hand. Also had it installed and playing for about 24 hrs of playing time. I just want verification via an industry standard testing procedure before I publish results. It's taking me a bit longer than most. But it's better than winging it and I believe most of y'all appreciate the extra steps taken.

Dress like Denozo?