Quentin Jarrell

here I helped you out a bit. All enclosures are 1.5 cubic feet and power is 2,000 watts. (another 500 watts will just give all a little more gain) It's pretty obvious which route to go.

yea above tuning input total volume. Then to the right click plot and enter total power that will be used

Now, adjust the box volumes to what will fit under your seat. And under the plot menu input whatever power you will be running to each set up

download winISD. You can input both drivers you want to use and compare both set ups

Head phones and IR repeater

. Depending on enclosure volume and tuning. And power being applied. This has been gone over already and I have posted results of two eights compared to one 12 using the same power. You can not look at a few specs and make assumptions about output.

1 more question; if the Depth Capacity (Inches) for the router = 1.25, will it work on a double front baffle (1.5inches) because of the extra length of the router bit. because i'd like to make my passes after the box is built, where if i cant get that extra depth from the router bit, i'd have to cut the hole before making my box Always use a spiral bit. You want down cut to push chips away from you when the router is not mounted on a table and up cut when the router is mounted on a table. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11263&site=ROCKLER That one is 3 1/2 inches long plenty of length for 2 to 2 1/2 inches of material. NEVER cut the material in one pass. Make multiple passes until you get to your desired depth.

Joel Butler is Da man.

http://www.slsloudspeakers.com/SLS%20Audio%20D-fend%20Energy%20Damping%20Speaker%20Protection%20Circuit.htm

Looks to be a cool little unit. Appears you can, via a laptop, adjust power through out the passband to limit over excursion.

NO SHIT. Your problem is you haven't a clue what you are doing and are arguing with someone that has designed and built thousands of enclosures. And have built well over 100 enclosures for mustangs. All bodies both coupe and convertible. I have not one time told you to build a bigger box. BECAUSE I KNOW WHAT WILL OR NOT FIT IN A CONVERTIBLE MUSTANG. And two of those subs in a proper box ain't gonna fit. Now if you have enough sense to use someone else's knowledge and experience to your advantage you will get some cardboard and make the largest box that you can put in and remove and ill model a box for you.

You need to model what you have now and assess what you are willing to give up for the gain in output you want. normally when building to gain output you will gain a larger ripple in the passband however the passband will be narrower than one with less ripple.

As already been said multiple times here and your other threads the boxes are no where near ideal. As I have said before sell the kickers and buy ONE high xmax 12 Preferably something along the lines of an Xcon, and have a proper box built with proper port area.

Get two way Motons

And they have horrible torque steer. If it doesn't have a giken in it Id ask for another 3 grand in cash.

Miss. River came up five feet today.

I don't do drive thru. Not even liquor or fast food.

As soon as you buy up all my Ethos wooferlers

If you ran 250 watts thru those subs for a period of time and physically touched the coil im surprised it didn't burn the piss out if you.

So the Fo of the sub free air came out to be almost the same as in the box?

With the very little info given. I'd go as far to assume that you have the coils out of phase.

I'm curious as to why it is calculating Fo in the mid 50's

Because it is in a vehicle. You will always have losses that will affect Q. It's never gonna be the same.

And be carefull with those screws. I'm about 34.86 percent sure the gas tank is below that panel.