onebadmonte

I ground down the welds and got the center brace out. It's going to be a bolt in piece. I'm test fitting the baffle in and taking measurements. It's going to be a tight fit. Here are some pics. Here is the baffle in place. With the baffle spaced so far back there is an interferance with the rear speakers and pods. I relief the baffle in the offending areas. Here is a side by side with the old baffle. It was fun while it lasted old baffle. I'm using the same threaded inserts to attach the baffle in vehicle and to mount the subs. 1/4-20s for the baffle and 10-32s for the subs In addition to the glue I'll be using drywall screw to hold the two baffles together Here is the finished baffle I couldn't help it, I just had to fit one in. I'm excited, but I have a ways to go. Here is a shot from inside the trunk. Tomorrows a new day. Hopefully I make just as much progress.

Thanks fellas. Should have more posted soon.

Today I worked on the baffle spacers and the baffle itself. The baffle is two layers of 3/4" MDF. The subs will be flush mounted, so the first layer of MDF will act as a spacer. The baffle will be spaced back from the seatback sheetmetal 1-3/4" with strips of wood. The strips and baffle will be attached with some 1/4" bolts and some threaded inserts. Well enough of my blabbing here are some pics. Here is the insert I'm using. This is what you get with IKEA furniture. You can buy them at Home Depot in 4 packs. I recommend ordering through Mc Master Carr. What 5 packs cost at Home Depot you can get a pack of a hundred through Mc Master Carr. All you do is drill the hole and thread them in with an allen wrench Viola! Nice threaded hole for a bolt. Here is one of the baffle spacers installed Up next is knocking out the center brace, it's too wide. The opening in the car is 40" wide. The baffle spacers over hang an inch to give me a mounting flange for the baffle. That leaves me with 38". I'm going to use an inch wide spacer down the center. After that I'll have 37" exactly what the OD of the 18's measure. Here's the center brace out. Yes I used a dremel. Here is the new center brace. 1" wide 1/8" thick metal strip. With all the wood strips on it should be plenty rigid. Here is an up close of my weld job. Flux core wire FTW! I know, I suck. Don't worry my flame suit is thick. Oh no! My first hiccup. The baffle is too wide to fit in through the rear because it's wider than the shock towers. To make things worse that welded brace is going to need to be removable to get the baffle in and out. Double FAIL! Calling it quits for today. Tomorrow should be better. LOL!

October. Hopefully I'll finish by then.

The goal 140. My previous attempt netted me a 135 and change at 32Hz. You can see my previous build here: Original Build This time I'm upping the anty with a pair of 18s and double the power. A mind boggling 900 watts. That's 900 old school class A/B watts via US Acoustics USB line. Why you ask? Because, they're cheap. The 2150 average about $100 bucks on ebay and the 2080 were about $40, which includes shipping. Here is a run down of the setup: The car: 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cierra A.K.A The Cream Puff Head Unit: JVC KD-HDW10 A basic CD player with a built in HD tuner and RCA outputs Amps: 2 US Acoustics USB-2085 both at 80 watts x 2 @ 4ohms (mids and highs) & 2 US Acoustics USB-2150 both at 450 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms (subs) Fronts: Powerbass 3.5" coax in stock location Rear: MTX Thunder Axe 5-1/4" components Subs: 2 Fi IB3 18" Electical: Stock I'll start off with a quick tear down. Amps coming out. My beloved US Acoustics USB-4085. They'll be back later on for a fully active system experiment. Bye, bye Ascendant Audio Atlas 15s. You were truely one of a kind. You will be missed. Here is my artistic shot from the trunk. The great wall coming down. This on is at a funny angle A side by side of what going in versus what came out. Here is a side shot. the 18 dwarfs the 15. Here is the backside. I've got my fingers crossed that these 18s will make some serious noise. More to come.

In El Paso fireworks aren't allowed in the city limits. Once you're outside of the city limits anything goes. It's the only place I know of that you can fire off fireworks on the frontage road of IH-10 and not get hassled. I live in San Antonio now. Can't do anything here, all the land is fenced off. Now I understand what native americans went through in the early 1800 as settlers settled the west.

Can we see a picture of the crossover on the 4ch amp?

Glad you're back.

Bummer man. May your Qs vaya con dios. F*ck it, nothing last forever. If the gods want you to move on, do it graciously and with style. More power to you. If you need some help let me know. I've got shade and some tools.

Good stuff, I like your style man. Just watch out for the turn-on thump.

Nice. The wife would love it. She's a big Zombieland fan.

You forgot the crumpets next to the tea pot.

Somebody's been watching Anchorman.

Terrible news. I guess they're getting back at us for July 4, 1776. It's all politics anyways. I think the rules say you have to be a US citizen. Good luck.

So I ordered some woofers from this outfit. In big red blinking letters they announce "Build Time 5-7 Days." That's cool. Tack on another 4 for shipping, so we're looking at two weeks. No biggie. I put my order in, a Friday night no less. It's not till Monday that my payment is accepted, so two weeks from Monday. From what I here I'm suppose to get an e-mail from from these guys when my stuff ready to go. I'm a patient guy. It's been a week, I figure I'll get an e-mail today or tomorrow. Today, I come home from work and bam! Typical Fi Audio, no notice, just products in your hands. Wondering what they are? 18" IB3.......For my car ......Flame Suit On They'll be replacing these. Old school Ascendant Audio Atlas. Old school? Yes, it's been that long. I opted for the Darth Vader edition IB3s with black motors and a dark grey logo. Not really, this is what they sent me, so I'm running with it. Stay tuned for a tear down and rebuild. Thanks for looking. Thanks Fi.

To answer you question about weather the 8" B&C driver can hang. The answer is yes. That being said, to get it to work I'd stick it in a box in the doors. Don't freak out when I say box. All you need is the minimum to cover the speaker. Here is a good read on how to make it work Sub-optimum box

On the cheap I would go with these. Cheap 8" Mid-bass Don't worry about the bucking magnet. You can pull it off and reduce the mounting depth. If you want to go all out I don't think anything would beat this. Bad Mofo 8" Mid-bass Good luck with the project. Keep us posted on how it goes.

So I've decided to try something different. I'm getting rid of the Avas and going with some JBL GTi subs. I'm starting off with two, but will eventually step it up to four. For now it will be a direct swap. Out with the old and in with the new. Here a few pics. Here are some side by side pics. I was a little worried the JBL wouldn't drop into my cabinet because of it's mounting depth. It made it in with an inch and a half to spare. First impressions: I'm all smiles. I got a new receiver along with my new subs so I'm still working out the kinks. My system goals have always been to to have good sound quality at moderate levels, but still have the ability to achieve night club dance levels. My boxes are tuned to around 28Hz. This sounds too high for movies, but I've have no issues shaking the walls watching movies from the Hurt Locker to Kung Fu Panda. I'm running both subs to a Behringer EP 2500, one to each channel. Since the subs are dual 6 ohm I wired them down to 3 ohms. That's pushing it for this amp, but hardly ever go full tilt. When I do, it's for a song or two, mainly showing off to friends. I got a second amp I'm just raising funds for the next two. Till then stay tuned.

Here are some pics of my mids and highs. They are Hawthorne Audio Silver Iris 15" Co-ax. These are meant to be run open baffle. For the sake of being different I mounted them by the magnet. I wrapped the basket with a cut up towel in a sleeve like manner. I don't have pics of that but you can see it in the video I posted previously. Here we go: The speaker Here is the magnet mount setup. It kind of tricky to see, but the mount is holding onto the mid-driver magnet. The exposed magnet is that of the compression driver. The inside of the pole piece is shaped to be a horn for the compression driver. This is a close up of the crossover. It was originally mounted on a slab of mahogany. I went this route for a more industrial look. Another up close and personal with the crossover. This is my setup. Well this was the old setup with my old glass tube TV.

If you'll already have one 6.5 in the stock location (red square) a second in the door pocket (green square) isn't going to color the sound noticeably. If you want to get the full output of running a pair of mid-basses in the doors I'd mount them side by side with the cones fully exposed. Mid-bass unlike sub-bass can be localized.

To answer your question, will playing the speaker into the pocket color the sound? Yes. The solution, hack the panel. If you're already going through the effort of cutting a 1/4" plate of steel, then cutting the plastic panel should be a breeze. There are other means to make a clean door panel besides fiberglass. Here is a thought. The top line of the green box. Cut the whole bottom off of the panel using that line. Then cut a board to replace the panel you cut off, just cut it a little taller so it overlaps the remaining panel a bit. You'll have to figure out how to mount this board onto your door. I envision some bolts epoxied into the board as studs to mount onto the door with nuts and washers inside the door. Put a small step on the backside of the board where it overlaps the door panel so everything sits flat. Now you can mount your speakers on the board. Paint the board the color of the truck or you can upholster it to your liking. Hope this helps and good luck with your project. Post some pics what you do.

LOL! Modeled in Pro-E. That must have been fun. Good luck on project.

Firstly, thanks. The meter itself is absolute. The calibration is optional if you want this meter to measure like another meter. How to determine absolute SPL? That I don't know. Maybe you could use a barometer and some fancy math?

Glad to here the rains didn't affect you BigJon. I know some people in New Braunfels that were. Nothing bad just a bunch of water damage.

Nice models. Solidworks? I use Pro-Engineer. Need tool path for CNC? Let me know.