kryptonitewhite

pulled the dash out...cant pull the deck, I mounted my amps inside the enclosure for the same reason i CAULKED the deck in instead of a plastic 3 screw mounting kit: want my deck, bring a razor, 2 screw drivers, and take your time The RCA out and RCA in are one connector so i am good! I ran a short set of RCAs to each, before I had a long pair coiled up in the net pouch on the right along with the long ass iPOD cords. USB for audio and control and apparently 3.5mm jack for the video. While I had her ripped open I got another replacement toggle switch..no more burnt out lights. The new ones dont get as hot, I am assuming me taking them back so many times they rebuilt them better :-P Ill bring the PC out again later and run some sweeps and see what ive got. I might turn the gains down first though, I raised the 10V and 14V amps to 17V with the other too and its too loud with the sub level set to 0 on some songs. So much work though, pain in the ass matching!

I gain matched last night, my ears hurt again and they did yesterday... louder, less voltage drop, no stinky! I raised the 9.8V and 14.9V gains to 17.9 with the other two. Who would ahve thought if you eyeball four amps as close as possible, they could be so far off?!?! Less excursion too...from the two amps that were higher...DUH!

Here is what I have: I assume I need to get this:

the optical cable I have does not look ike this, it has the 2 small square ends, not the big connector on the other end. Could this be my problem? http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&wrapid=tlif130254844520510&q=KWE-610A&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=799389487404966087&sa=X&ei=3k-jTau1FIiL0QGmmemhBQ&ved=0CDIQ8gIwAg#

Thanks guys, I was thinking of superglue myself then thought Id get flamed for perma damaging

platinum doesnt transmit light as well as glass or plastic, but it sure sounded cool until i hooked them up

I knew this was how it was going down, so I went with it. I hoped to get solid replies on the input to my Alpine IVA-W505 HU. I do not want to run RCAs because they tend to be nasty dirty from PC, but I just might have to. Also IDK if I kept the AUX IN RCA connector for the HU. So I tried the 3.5mm LINE OUT on the PC to the 3.5mm in jack on the IVA thats usually used in conjunction with the USB... both go to one end of the iPOD Y-cord, and the other end is the jack to plug into the POD. I get no audio from the HU from the PC in USB, AUX, or AUX + IN. The rig: I dismantled the rig I built for the HT and rebuilt it for the VAN. RS meter and Audyssey mic. VIDEO REW the van is my ROOM

they are pure platinum

Sioux Falls, SD, very much a safe place to be... but I live in the "bad" aort of town, it's really not too bad but it's active. Two cops minimum drive by real slow every 5 minutes on a slow day. On a busy day theres 5-15 cruisers, fire trucks, ambulances, the whole works... pretty sure a few days ago there was a stabbing or sopmething 2 blocks away, 5 cruisers and an ambulance were there a while before the stretcher came out. if it was a heart attack or storke, one or 2 cruisers and one gone in 15 minutes, other stays for paperwork. All 5 stay an hour or more, something happened. Its always being worked on, tonight I am up to something... should have some images up by the AM

I know the soundcard output works, its all already calibrated and I have the FR curve of my soundcard even.... having said that, I bet everyone who is going to understand what I am doing... now knows what I am going to do Ill copy/paste what I said elsewhere: I googled the crap out of it, only ting I can find is on the 3mm to Svid jack or whatever the blue 4 pin or multi-pin is I think i can set the HU to USB without a USB device connected, the HU says "NO USB CONNECTED" what I am hoping is it is a live continuous input feed through the 3mm, so if I set to USB and put the line in, I just get sound. Ill just have too hook up and see!

I guess my concernes are that the only way to get my Source to accept audio from the 3mm is by going to USB. AUX IN is RCA, dont want to run that, dont know if I even have the RCA connector plugged in or at all. You can remove the RCA and video outs and RCA and video ins, they plug in, IDK if I have them anymore. My other is, if I shut the PC down, disconnect everything, lug it all out there, get it all set up, plug the 3mm to 3mm and get no sound, I have to tear down, lug back in, set back up, get on, ask you guys, wait for responces, wait some more, wait some more..... get no answers.

My bad, just remembered that was on carstereoforum.net my bad!

Wow I didnt think frames would be so cheap, awesome. I was told I dont know what i am doing cuz of my pile of cones.... must be a lot of morons that buy sundown on this forum :-O jk jk, jus makin a point is aLL

thanks man! Notice I didnt even flinch, that was every day 20 times a day last summer while building AP30001Ds (4) and Fi reconed Blue Print Audio 1803 18's

Crazies do that all summer long, ask if I got weed or know anyone that wants some... sit on my front porch and drink beer on their way home from the liquor store while I am in the back and have no idea. People have tried walking in my house before and yelling in woindows.

I emailed buy.com and the place they got it from about the optical out not being there after hearing ALL W505s should have had them

still in the box, i have her blast 60Hz again after gains matched, some dudes walking by walk in my side garage door (big door down, its cold today) gave the gangstaz a demo now it really looks like the ghetto, neighborhood clean up, cops getting thicker every day as the weather gets nicer and more crazies come out

So one sub was clipping when I was pushing the limits for prefect finaly motivating me to re-gain match. 3 of them are easy to move, 2 extremely easy clipping sub voltage was 17.9 lowest sub was 9.8 testing the 60Hz tone to make sure iPOD would play it in the box with DMM

ya not too happy about it and some other issues I have had, but what do you do? Im not installing a moble PC unfortunately... once upon a time that was the plan, but never came about. But I am up to something though PM sent

Reason #1 for getting the deck: touch screen control to adjust my PXA-H701. Rather than spending $300-$400 on a normal CD player and $200 for the module, why not add the $350 and $200 for $550, save another $150 and get a 7" touch screen DVD player instead? They didnt include an optical out on my unit, I took it to Audio Playground, Authorized Alpine, they told me to pull the rubber plug out, I did, it was empty, they said they stopped putting the optical outs on the HUs. I got ripped off, false advertising. Ive been running my iPOD with the Y-cable that came with the HU... it has a plug at on end for the Ipod, and 2 cables on the other: USB and 3mm. I been running it with both. Thank you VERY much for the info! Gonna shut down and lug this big PC to the garage and set it up in the van (no lap top) you will see why in a while if this works Thank you again Ken!

Hey all, I have a USB and the jack that connect to my iPOD. Is the USB just for information/control and the jack for the music? Can I use the jack for input from my PC? here is a link that has a pic of the back, the top left corner has 2 wires coming out, the bottom black wire is like a regular headphone/mic/line in/line out jack. Can I run a PC/laptop out into this to playback PC/laptop sound through my system? Also, when i purchased the $900 unit a key reason was for the optical out... listed at this site still, though discontinued. I spent an extra $100 for an optical cable only to find a rubber plug where the optical out is supposed to be, was told by my local Alpine Authorized dealer to pull it, no out I suffer from terrible HISSSSS because I have to run my audio through the Ai-NET cable. Anything I can do about that? Thanks http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Cudin23x0Rk/s_500IVAW505/Alpine-IVA-W505.html

Id like to think over time I will be saving up to get some of those midbasses for my wall as of now though I brought my crossover back up and its much better, I just dont have the electical to back them up right now.... at least i found someone to make the brackets for the 2nd alt for a reasonable price, once thats in I should be ok 95 thats GREAT info, I think it will help many! Thank you! My bad, I though adding 3dB doubles power, another 3dB doubles again, then 3 more dB doubles again... 3 times the original number. That I did know, impedance saddle, I was hoping to blanket the idea with overall impedance rise, ya caught me. remember youre playing BB with a retarded kid, you gotta let some of my shit slide (OK, no you dont, youre here to correct my mistakes which is what I need, and thank you for that) sigh.... way too much math for me, I get what youre saying. I have it EQed again, it does fine when i am driving, when i am sitting I think i do clip. good to know, and thank you for not jumping me back after I jumped you I hope me getting mouthy, therefore warranting these very insiteful posts, helps everyone! Again, thank you all for your great input!

kick ass dude, I bet next time your bring back several pics and vids, eh? build log?

I had a lot of fun meeting this guy today, he got me out of my shell a little bit. But he also got me pushing my limits, I had to try hard to impress him because his single 15" WANGS and causes flex like Ive never seen before. Full bore his setup sounds just as excellent as it does turned down. I almost blew up my gear several times today. He thinks I am experiencing rocking, coil hitting the side at high excursion. I think my amps are getting murdered from voltage drop causing the clipping sound that sounds like metal. Several times my **** got extremely quiet all a sudden like the amps sort of went into protect from voltage drop but still had some output. The subs would go from high excursion then get quiet. When i backed down, they came back "on". Only time I ever experienced anything like it before was when I had a circuit breaker between my front battery and rear battery and I would forget to close it after maintainance.... the battery wouldnt charge, id be wangin away, it would get quieter and quieter, then all a sudden it would get very quiet when I cranked it....turn it down and it was OK...turn it up and it died.... charged the battery back up and it was fine again. anyway. just a really cool dude, his girlfriend was pretty nice too

Also, I haven't burnt a coil since 2005 or so despite running 6 times the rated power for my woofers. The only time I have made these subs stink at all was while playing music with very high bass at very high levels so EQing the bottom end up would have no effect or would actually help. And, if a person like me desires a specific range of frequencies to be louder than the rest..since we are all different people with different wants, needs, desires and tastes, just because I boost a range of frequencies to be louder than the rest or as loud to the ear ( 148dB at 25Hz sounds quiet compared to 140dB at 55Hz) doesnt mean I am already running full power and maxing everything out then adding 9dB, 3 times the power, on top of that at that range. I went with four 18's because I tune lower and play lower so i have to move 4 times the air as those that tune an octave above me just to maintain the same SPL, though they sound four times louder at the same SPL an octave higher due to human ear sensitivity and roll off. I play with my subs doing less than a quarter of their potential most of the time, tons of headroom. Until I get to the 20Hz-30Hz range, where you guys unload and think you're "pounding them lows out solidly with authority". Put your 32Hz tune on a mic capeable of distortion tests and lets see what your SPL is at 25Hz, and how much distortion yours is vs mine. Ill bet my gear on it and take your SAZ and XS Powermaster.