kryptonitewhite

I'd have to say that I have a better suspension set up with my (maybe) too small sealed set up than most anyone else mounting the same drivers in the door, even with sound deadening, cause let's face it, that's not even true infinate baffle...thats about as leaky and un-solid as you can get...thats free air with crap in the way constituting as a "baffle" I think for having them crossed over 50Hz/24dB I have plenty of airspace per driver. Would i like to go a bit bigger? yes! Who has more sealed space per the same driver right now?

First off...whats a quicky box cost to build? 20-40 bucks? Just TRY one for fun. To learn. The more boxes you make and play with, the better at it all you get. Yes, I will benefit from cabin gain. Even then, with my low lows accentuated, I'm still not happy with my low low output, yet driven crazy with too much normal-low output Lack in the upper 50-60s? 2 15's SEALED with 2kW each is WAY too much for me. So my low tuning, not affecting 50-60Hz ( without getting too tecnical with port resonance and such) is PLENTY! And, mind you, I have 4 Extremis on a KX850.4 covering 50Hz-70Hz.

My point is, with just 1 "good" 15" subwoofer sealed, I have ALL the 30Hz on up I want. You? Maybe not. I'm not trying to be Steve Meade and knockin my brains out from 27-37Hz. Sure, i'd love to roll with him...but not every freakin day! I'm not talking LFE here, music CD's haven't cought up yet Even with cabin gain, I still have too much 30's up and not enough 30's down

For years I've been obsessed with InfraLow bass. OK, not sub-sonic anymore...now 20-30Hz. I've had so many debates, and I've gotten so much critisizm for tuning "too low". The best way to argue would be...is there information on music CD's from 20-30Hz? I've had this discussion before, but no one had any solid proof. People with frequency spectrum analyzers said "Akon and Young Jeezy's Soul Survivor only goes down to 33Hz". When you play it on an analyzer, it shows a PEAK low of 33Hz. When you play a 33Hz test tone, it doesn't show 33Hz! Here are some songs that I believe to have information well below 30Hz: Hail Mary, Tupac Shakur, The Don Killuminati: The 7 Day Theory, Makaveli! Return of the "G", OutKast Aquemini Late Night Tip Three 6 Mafia Da End CD Cryptorchild Marilyn Manson Antichrist Superstar (Not even the organ passage, something lower) Check this vid at :29 seconds. This is the stuff I like, this is what i need to safe guard my subs from with over-excursion, this is where I want my system to peak: http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/Kicker/solox18.5.wmv here are some spectrum analyzer links: http://www.relisoft.com/Freeware/freq.html http://www.hitsquad.com/smm/cat/SPECTRUM_ANALYZERS/ http://www.phonature.com:8092/home/product...c_HandDeeSA.htm

Also, I could easily put 4 15's in there ported. If I tuned it to 30, I'd probably get about 1-2 cubes per side. That would be about 4 cubes per sub @ 30Hz. With so little airspace, being so rigid and air tight, I could get some serious numbers. I can also fit 4 18's sealed. About 4.5 cubes per sub. My favorite sub stage EVER is HexiBase's. What I'd give to have his intelligence and make a rear horn wall.

I squeezed out as much space as I could for using MDF and by doing the aiming. I had originally planed on putting the drivers in the doors, which wouldn't have been much more space. I also considered doing fiberglass which would have given some back, but I wasn't too sure on my skills for it at the time. I've only done 1 fiberglass-like enclosure, but really it was just coating it. Since the onset of starting the dash, I had a job making wind turbine blades out of resin, so I have much more experience with it now. I may use the wood enclosure now as a mold, sand it smooth and apply a releasing agent. I could have used the whole dash and made 1 large rectangle box, put in a center divider, and all the speakers would have faced strait back...much much more space...but even then, it wouldn't have been nearly enough to do 2 true Kit LCR's. (That would have been sweet, eh? Vifa in for the Usher of course) But with the power that I have, and the stuffing, it should help. I don't know the exact space the extremis share...there are so many angled sides, the top and back are seriousely angled and mis-shaped as well. As for cabin gain, yes I know it's aproximately 12dB/oct. In my case, that will be more accurate than most, because walling it already 1/2's a small cabin to begin with, the whole cabin will be made of MDF and filled in with foam, and will all be coated with several layers of different mediums. I'm even filling the doors with foam...I'll wrap the window in cardboard and seal it up, and fill the doors with the windows down, making a gap for the tracks, windows, locks, and actuators. The only "leak" I'll have will be the outside vent. I gutted out the AC box, took out all of the vents, now it's just a big whole on top of the heater that I'll seal off to the dashboard and I'll have a screw in plug. Air tight. I'll never be able to explain away, ever. I always find I'm trying to justify it. I can't! I already have that resined box 5.1cubes@21Hz. I've messed with it in home and in the car. There is a huge downfall, the port is useless starting around 30-35Hz. So if I'm playing an extremely low song full tilt, I have to be careful during 30-40Hz passages. I know if I brought it up to 25-28Hz...still "way lower than I should ever need in-car", I would eliminate that problem. My L7 box was 3.4@27Hz. It went plenty low, and handled power extremely well. But I'm not going for super loud. 2 15's sealed are plenty loud for me assuming lots of power from 30Hz and up. In fact, generally too loud, until you get below that. So I don't need 2 15's maybe 18's ported for that 30-40Hz range....I like sub 30s, and there is plenty of that information in music, contrary to what a lotta people say. I can never get enough of the lows, by lows I mean sub 30s, thats where I need my reinforcement. Thas all I can say! I don't expect to change anyones mind, just be accepted. And it's different. Who else is dumb enough to do that? lol

Thanks for the info, badass build...btw. I am looking at doing 2 15/16 outter, so 2 7/16 inner....

damn it, I have 2 of them sitting right here...I kept wondering why they said CSS on them. chit i'm dumb.

I guess youre right, if i look at an "OK" tweet like the Vifa XT25TG30, it has a freq responce of 1.5kHz-40kHz, a total of 38,500Hz range. As you go lower to mid range, mid bassm then sub bass, the range gets exponentially smaller. An "OK" mid range driver such as the Adire Audio FR125S, it is listed as 65Hz-20kHz, a range of 19935Hz. Then, the Adire Audio Extremis ( going concervative with the 3.5kHz on up issues) otherwise they say ( The inductive roll-off of this driver is up beyond 8 kHz! ) Well, I can't seem to find a bottom end. We'll say 100Hz-3.5k. A difference of 3400Hz. So now, a sub woofer. 50Hz down to 20Hz? A frequency responce range of 30Hz? YUP! makes sense! And yes, i'm thinking of putting 4 10's behind my seat just cuz I got room on top of the batteries, I wanna put some 8's in my doors cuz you got 8's and you look like you are real smart, and some kicks, and chit...i missed most of my dashboard, means the whole thing is wood...I can stick a bunch there! Maybe some in my seats, like a gamer's chair, and some in the center cosole....chit, anywhere I can! false roof too! ah, 6X9's galore!

thank you. I guess I sit corrected. I needed that!

lol alright alright

I was wondering if anyone would comment on that I like the idea of low inductance, so long as all the material I've read rang somewhat true. I've heard many comments about 1: XBL^2 drivers play clean up to 1kHz cause of low inductance and 2: A SUB woofer is made to play BELOW 50Hz...a SUB woofer isn't meant to play "high" But, I'll repeat...I have 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's running off of a Kicker KX850.4 being fed by 7 Optima Red Top batteries, crossed over with a bandpass slope of 24dB/oct from 50Hz to either 450Hz or 700Hz. So mid bass and kick drum is not a problem for me. Oh, sealed BTW. But I like to sometimes run my SUBs 50Hz down, and sometimes, i like to give them all the way up to 200Hz. So inductance, the largest determining factor in pounding crisp highs, I love LOW inductance drivers? idk

I guess this should be in "builds" I was too anxious to hurry up and get these pics up quick I wouldnt be offended if admin moved it

what are you guys making them out of

Kicker uses the long coil approach, right? I love my squares BTW, and I've owned 2 Avalanches, so i'm not overly biased. But really, the L7 has 16mm Xmax, and I don't wanna know what the inductance was (I love to change my crossover to 200Hz once in a while just to show morons that larger subs arent slower and sloppier than smaller) VS a short ass coil with 27mm. I know you only meant the Kicker, just seems weird Ive never even heard of them and theyre out already! then again $10,000 vs $20,000....I understand why

off topic: I love Xmax and inductance...I can't see how XBL is over rated?? You know someone with one in their hands already? How long that amp been out? Steve has the only private owned T15k to his knowledge, and thats been quite a while.... er Chicken....

I'm a Kicker fan anyway....sweet, i had no idea. Now if Kicker would just implement XBL^2. Then they coukld donate 2 warhourses and 2 SOLOXBL^2 18's to me, 6 cubes@20Hz each! this is a bit over done...lotta hype, little filling, but here's my first look at it: http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoID=21554680

Will you fill me in on your router experience using the circle jig? Thanks!

Oh and local shops and best buy and all that. No brick and mortar for me. (sorry all you shop guys ) I hate talkin audio to people around here, all they know is old school stuff or stuff thats in the local shops...the big names. I say "Adire/RE Audio" and their like "HUH?"

you learn as you go, some places just have better service than others. I have nothing but the best of luck with Kicker and Bob at Creative Sound Solutions, where I've learned to avoid Lanzar (Quality Car Audio parent company, owning Pyramid, Pyle, and others too), AA, and obviousely Audiobahn back in my less educated days. I'm fortunate to have what I have, most of it I didn't earn myself. But the most expensive stuff is yet to come, and I've been working again so....I feel better about it.

Alright, between the 2 threads, I'm convinced That makes shopping so much easier.

heh, I'll make sure it's tight. I just spent 45 minutes digging out the router, looking up the right part numbers, only to go back and read " and all Sears, Ryobi and Makita models. Made in the U.S.A. " I've got the ryobi R1801M1, R181FB1

Good. Cuz I loved my CDA-9855, and the new stuff loocks sweet. Why'd it take Alpine so long to break 2K?

For the sake of argument, let's assume 0 noise induction via power wires and rca cables. Gain full for .02 VS gain minimum with 5V. The 5V won't be cleaner? And since 0 noise induction is impossible, won't 5V still be preffered then?

My 6 Optima's will be behind my front seats on the floor...very close to my deck. I'll run the deck's power wires right down the center, between my seats. My amps will be connected in the same spot, so no voltage difference and so on. So I shouldn't have ANY noise. But at 4V, my gains being set properly, will be somewhere around 1/2. With 8V, gain all the way off, won't it be even cleaner? IDK...teach me! However it won't matter anyway, my deck will feed 2 AudioControl 6XS's...it has a built in line driver. But really, I like the idea of my volume knob being very low...means my deck will be putting a small fraction of its power out, no chance of any clipping, better SQ...right???