KenC210

Just a bit of an update 12" bulletproof lift kit with icon coil overs sitting on 20x12.50 rockstar II rims with 38's toyo open country.

Just a few pics of it all installed. Just for the clearance for the passengers in the back

Yeah I have just been working on redoing the sub box since I messed up with the aero ports and didn't secure them properly. So I went and changed some specs to make it work as a slot port. The box ended up being slightly wider. Will be posting up some vids here shortly. I will also get a few pics of the box in with the seats up.

Got around to setting up the gains so here is a test vid of the Hertz. I will be needing to fixing the subs box due to some issues with the port rattling so I have the subs at zero gain as of now till I get around to fixing the problem. I know the issue with the ports but I will need to cut out the front baffle and replace it as I will be securing the aero ports a bit better.

Getting the box in for fitting. Also getting the holes drilled for T nuts. After i got the subs mounted in place it was time for the amp. After the power, grounds set, and a double check for everything it was time to finish the rest off... So I got everything playing and had a few issues. I had a tweeter not working which i found the problem which was where I soldered the wires together I guess I pulled the wire a bit to hard and it tore the wire, so I re solder and got it playing. The next big thing i have is with the aero ports are vibrating. I thought I had the in very secure when build the box but I guess not. I will have to try and fix this if I can't come to a decent idea to help prevent the rattle from the ports.

Now on to some updates. I started with the power wire that will be running towards the back. Two runs of of sky high 1/0 glad I was able to fit both runs along the side. The speaker wires from the door and dash wrapped up and will be routed. Then to find a place for the front stage amp. Was hard to come up with a place but however under the front seat was best place, didn't really want to put anything under the seat but I had limited space. So I made a base out of 1/2in mdf so it would be secured. A test fit to make sure it will be fine... Good to go so I will be placing it there. Time to remove all seats again... Now to start with the Audio control LC7i to help me integrate the factory amp to the other amps. Of coarse with a good diagram I got from TundraTalk.net to help me out with which wires are what I was able to knock this out. Now that I was able to get those wires done with the processor time to start cleaning up this mess of wires and start running them where they will go. Got my 12volt turn on relay in place to get the multiple accessories to turn one. Also got the Dakota digital in place while i was running all the wires. The voltage will be read from the sub amp.

It may be around 14ga wire to car audio specs it is true 12awg all copper wire.

So I got a little work done on this beast. First thing I got done was the fire wall bushings. Two runs will be going to the rear. Also added the water proof fuse boxes. Had to make my own speaker wire out of the 12ga wire I had. Black and red colors. Then I ran them along side the existing door wires. After I ran the wires for the woofer, mid, and tweeter I installed all the speakers and reassembled the doors. That's pretty much it for today since I only had a couple hours. Hopefully by this weekend I could get a lot more done.

Get yourself a processor. Chances are you won't be using the audio settings anyway. If you have Bluetooth, usb/aux, satellite radio, or other amenities then no real need for an aftermarket radio.

I will not be replacing the deck. I have an audio control lc7i and I will have to be talking the signals from the factory amp. Thank you, they are actual the factory wheels. At least until I get the lift and will have to be getting new wheels.

So now that I bought my wife a new car she is not driving this truck around, so now I could start some work on it. So I started with some MLV. I removed all the seats and carpet and got started. The truck gutted to start laying the MLV. Finished the MLV on the floor so I put everything back in. So got a little work on the Dakota Digital volt meter to set in place. Have the perfect fit right where the 4wd switch is. Just a temp set and a little trimming for a baffle to fit in so the volt meter will sit nicely. Now it will sit perfectly in there. I did not install yet since I will need to be painting the baffle to match the color of the trim. So after test fitting the 6.5 in the door I found that even with the adapter plates I will still need to create a little space for them to fit. So I made a ring out of MDF and split it in half so it gave me the perfect clearance. So now the doors were already set with CLD tiles and it was time for the CCF to go on. Now this is the carpeting down with the box. Will be painting the port wall in a flat black next.

It actually works very nice given the fact that those are 6" mufflers and it is dumped under the rear seats the drone is really unnoticeable.

Haven't been able to do much work on this thing but I have a small update. I got the BA muffler installed. Found the builder of these wonderful exhaust systems on a Tundra forum so i got on it an order me the muffler. The guy also does other vehicles but I believe he specializes in Toyota custom work. You could find the guys site at http://www.dirtydeedsindustries.com/ he was very helpful and great to work with. Anyway here is the small update of the exhaust. And out with the old...

I'm more curious about what he says about the rotor being open and what that means.

I trust who is doing it im just curious what it is I know nothing about the alternator.

So I sent in my alternator for repair and the message he sent me was, The rectifier was overheated and the rotor was open (this alternator design is very compact) I have everything broken down for a full rebuild other then the stator now. The stator is in perfect shape still and was never overworked. Just waiting on the parts to install them. So I don't know much on the process it takes to rebuild my alternator sui could someone she some light on this message he sent me.

The DD M2B... Some work done to the box... After test fitting the box i notice i need to fill in some of the space... Just some of the small things that will be added... Some MLV also going in this bad boy... Just came in today still waiting on others from sounddeaden showdown.

Just going to leave this here till i am able to update the rest of the progress...

every time this guy post something in a thread I have to read on as I learn something from his post always even though it may seem like he comes off like a dick...

Not sure a buddy of mine gets them extremely cheap. I have a shit ton of it so I use anywhere and everywhere. I did send some to Jon from second skin to run some test awhile back and he compared it to be extremely close to the dynamat xtreme products. Received the product this afternoon.Here are my opinions/observations on the product. Product has a total thickness of 62-63 mils and sports a 5 mil thick aluminum constraining layer.Typically with these products 4 mil foil is standard and not many have any thicker, so this is quite surprising to see a 5 mil thick foil on this product.Downside is that the foil does not seem to be unique and is just a 'deadsoft' foil. It is 100% butyl, no asphalt or tar whatsoever.And it's of rather high quality butyl to boot with few fillers added. I would say the butyl on this would rank in the top 5 in terms of quality. Very few products have a butyl this 'clean'. You can typically tell the quality based on the amount of residue a product leaves on a surface (less is better) and if the butyl is grainy (which this product isn't). Also the consistency of the rubber at room temp is also a tell-tale sign of the quality. Products that feel and seem more 'chewing gum' like (soft and squishy) at room temp are not a quality product. Whereas something like this that is much more stiff and solid at room temp will perform much better. It does have a slight odor as I'm sure you're aware of, but it's nothing compared to a few others I've had/tested. Overall, not a bad product. If you want, I can run it through a vibration test vs. another product similar in thickness and see how it fairs.Let me know and I hope this helps ya. - Jon The BLUE is the baseline sheet metal without any product applied to it.The RED is the same test ran with Dynamat Xtreme applied to 25% of the panel.The GREEN is the product you sent me. Just like the Dynamat only 25% of the panel was treated.

Thank you. Thank you. Got a few things ordered up as well and should be coming in. Just when I get the time to work on this thing I can.

Just deaden the large open flat areas of the sheet metal first. You won't get much rattle around the contours or bends of the sheet metal. You finish the large areas first then place where you want. This is going to be an all day thing as well if you plan to do your whole car so remember that you want to plan ahead.

Also did some CLD tiles started... Tools needed... Started the roof first... Glad to have the rear window rool down made it easy to remove headliner... There is three layers on the roof... This picture was during my break... using that roller and constantly looking up did its toll on me... I didn't get a picture of the final setup as I was on a roll trying to finish this and the rear area and try to get started on the front doors. This shows the rear window actuator area im adding cld tiles to. Finished The Rear window actuator cover and back wall. The front door... Finished only the driver side since it was getting dark so i didn't get a finally picture...