handman84

I would like to keep the mids in the stock door location and since i have a hole in the door panel already I would like to keep my tweeter there. I figured i'd end up getting an external processor but I am not opposed to a new hu...the R&D stage of my setup is by FAR the most time consuming...

and what raw drivers would you suggest? where would I start my search/research? Brands? etc...

Thanks a ton your help. I have fallen in love with car audio but am having to learn everything the hard way, trial and error, hours online researching, etc. I may not be ready to dive into an active setup yet but mainly due to a lack of proper tuning equipment and knowledge to use it properly. My drivers are in their stock door location and tweeters are mounted in the top of the door panels (first install. If I would have known any better I would have put them in the A pillars:) My budget right now is $600 but I can put it off a few more months to save more if need be. All I have is an alpine mrx f30. I would need xover, processor, etc. HU is a pioneer p8400bh. My goal is warm crystal clear highs and nice solid midbass...a solid sq front stage. I listen to a lot of guitar heavy music (buckethead, tommy emanuel) and tight drumming (like primus and tool) and am looking for good clean tight accurate reproduction, thought active may be the way to go and a way for me to further my knowledge and spend many more hours doing something I love. Sub stage is a 12" GCON 2.5 ft^3 tuned to ~33hz powered by an aq 1200d. Thanks for the link and all your help. If you have any other advice help or guidance it is greatly appreciated.

Will I need special equipment to properly tune an active setup? Is it possible for a newb to tune an active setup by ear? Where can I go to learn more about active setups? I've googled and Youtubed it but can't seem to find any good in depth info out there...

I don't have any experience. I have a set of entry level BA components I installed which was my first install. That is why I love these forums, I learn a ton and what I love about this hobby is figuring things out, learning. I guess I figured going active would give me many more hours of trial and error, more time working and improving my system, and ultimately more knowledge of how to set up tune and improve the quality of a system and enhance the listening experience. Where would you suggest I begin to find a good set of active components?

I am saving to upgrade my front stage and was pretty set on a set of hsk 165 xl's but I have been reading about active crossovers and I am interested. Are there any speakers that work better than others on an active setup? Would I still be able to use these Hertz active down the road? I am looking to keep it in the $600 range but I am also a believer in do it right the first time. Will be placing the new speakers in the front doors of my '96 Accord sedan, powering them with a 300 watt 4 channel alpine and ditching the 6x9's in the back. Any advice or recommendations for a good active setup? I listen to my fair share of hip hop and dub step but when I listen to classical guitar I want to feel like Andres Segovia is in the car playing live!

And I want to add the 45's but how much area will that take up? How much do I need to add to the overall size of the box to maintain 2.5 Ft^3? How would I go about making those calculations?

Closer to the opening in the front of the box? So to the left if you are looking at the front of it?

Finally designed my first enclosure. It is for a 12" GCON. ~2.5 ft^3 tuned to ~33hz. Does my math/design look correct? Does this look like a design that will translate into the real world effectively? It will be going in the trunk of a 1996 Honda Accord sedan powered by an AQ1200. This is what I came up with to fit my trunk space needs. Any critiques and opinions are welcome and greatly appreciated.

I appreciate the feedback. since I am only running one driver I decided to take the time and tweak the design so I could play with the orientation and see which I like best. Finally came up with something I am happy with this afternoon. I will post pics when it is done.

So I should face my sub toward the back and my port toward the side?

I have spent the last few weeks playing with the orientation of my sealed subwoofer box in my trunk and found the best orientation (to my ears anyway) I am now designing a ported box and was wondering if the optimal orientation will change sealed vs ported? Here is the current orientation:

I have it in a sealed box @ 1.35 ft^3 right now. I have a 3 ft^3 sketched up but haven't built anything yet. Going to go with 2.5 ft^3 tuned to 33hz...the recommended box...I figure I should trust the people who designed and built this AMAZING driver

Thats why I love this forum. I've been on others and the people there are either dicks or don't seem to know there shit. Aaron was super helpful with my order and answered every one of my emails within 12 hours. And to top it off SSA subs are AMAZING. I don't want this to turn into a verbal jerk off but that's why I come here. I am eager to learn and there are people here willing to help me do that. This site absolutely rocks!

Thank you StreetLegal

I dove into this as a hobby I could do because I love music and I spend a lot of time in my car. I had no idea how deep this "hobby" can actually get and I LOVE it! There is always something to learn and something more you can do to make your build better/more efficient. I am happy it isn't as easy as spending a ton of $$ on equipment and throwing it in your trunk. I look forward to many more years spent learning the craft. Are there any good informational books out there that anyone would recommend?

Is there a way to figure that out without a thousand dollars worth of test equipment? Or is it even something I need to worry about?

I have never heard anyone mention cabin gain...what does that mean?

I built a sealed enclosure when I got my GCON last month to save space but I want more spl and I know she wants to give it to me so I figure f**k it, I'll give up the trunk and port it...I just want to do it right the first...well second time I'll probably trust SSA and go 2.5ft^3 at 33hz. Any design help or advice is appreciated.

23" deep x 16" tall x up to 38" wide. Got a 3ft^3 drawn up but I just don't have a lot of experience with different enclosures and how changing variables affects the subs output. I am trying to avoid building too many boxes to get what I want.

Is there a good rule of thumb to follow when it comes to designing a custom ported enclosure in regards to volume vs tuning frequency? Like the more volume you have the lower you want it tuned? I have been playing with design specs in winisd and based on the graphs I see in the design window, want to build a 3ft^3 box tuned to 34hz for my 12" GCON . How well would this design translate into the real world? Box will be in trunk of my '96 accord. I listen to all types of music but LOVE dub step and deep bass. Would 32hz sound better. I am looking for max spl and bass response through a wide frequency range...

Thanks for the feedback Aaron.

Sorry, posted in the wrong section. Cant figure out how to delete this thread. please disregard and excuse my ignorance

Have a 12" GCON in a sealed box. It sounds great but I am wanting more and I know the sub will give it to me if I can put it in the right enclosure. I used the ICON enclosure design for the sealed box it is in now, would the ICON ported design work well for the GCON as well? It falls into the optimal range, 2.5f^3 tuned to 33hz. It is a 2 ohm sub with 500 watts powering it in the trunk of a '96 accord. I have about 32" x 20" x 18" to work with. Anyone have any experience or recommendations for a ported box design that will work well with the GCON?