fuzzyping

Mike, it was awesome being a customer of yours. You not only put out quality equipment but did so with unparalleled customer service at a very competitive price. I think I can speak for everyone here in thanking you for your years of service and wishing you well with your future endeavors. Jason

I'm still holding onto them for now. My ICON 12 is sitting on the sideline getting jealous (and it's no slouch).

You have no idea what I'd do for that car. I've been wanting to find a '61-67 beetle forever. They're really hard to find on the East coast in any sort of decent condition. My 2nd car was a '73 standard Beetle that I used to show. Nice paint job. I love the clean look. Mine had the fender turn signals shaved and all the chrome removed. Lowered front-end with 8-spoke EMPI rims painted to match. *sigh*

Originally my single RL-i8 was running off a SAE-1500D prototype from Jacob. I burnt that up and eventually replaced it with the SAZ-1500D you see in that video.

Yes, but not one I'd feel comfortable with for such a task.

I'd just as soon use the Jasper to cut both, with screws in the ring to cut the ID. I think it could be done cleanly by cutting the ID first using the Jasper, but leaving 2-3 "spokes" around the inner perimeter to give the inner ring a place to hold onto. Then cut the OD. And then finish it up with a jigsaw and sanding of the spokes.

To add to my last question, I'd like to know how to taper a ring, like this one. Other than very careful sanding, I can't imagine how that would be done.

Yeah, that's what I have. But that's not enough for creating rings. For example, I can cut out the center but then I won't have anywhere to put the center piece for the jig. Or I can cut out the exterior first but then I don't have enough room to clamp the piece (I could drill holes through it). Somewhere I read a technique for ring cutting that lets you cut perfect rings without marring the material.

Welcome back ///M5. Missed you for my comps thread!

nmssd12 has an 05 4Runner. Might want to check with him.

I think that's the point the insurance company is trying to convey.

Certainly Have you thought about bending those mounting tabs a little ? It's not that the tabs themselves are pointing out. The post(?) they're attached to is just that far out to the side. Pics over here at the build log.

Took a detour away from the sub window for a bit to revisit the front components. I still have the JBL P650C comps and have been mostly happy with them. But I've always wondered "what if" I'd found a nice DIY set that would fit. I bought a set of Seas CA18RLY 6.5" mids when I first started this journey, but they won't fit the stock location. I took another look tonight and think I might be able to fabricate a wooden baffle that will accommodate the Seas. This build serves as my inspiration. I should be able to get by with a single 3/4" ring on top of the 3/4" mount surface. Anyways, I didn't have a lot of time tonight to work on it. Got some pictures below of the template and the speaker. P.S. Anyone have pointers to cutting out MDF rings? I know I've seen some around but forgot to bookmark them.

After taking another look at the OEM mounting hardware and my Seas CA18RLY, I'm going to try manufacturing a wooden baffle/mount. If my math is right, there's a good chance they'll fit. What makes those woofers so difficult to fit are the way the terminals stick way out to one side. This requires a 6" diameter opening at least 1 1/2" behind the mounting ring. I think a 3/4" mounting plate with another 3/4" ring (and maybe an extra 1/4") should be enough to clear the window track and door panel. If all else fails, I can fall back on the Peerless. But I need to at give it a shot, right?