helotaxi

Not that big of a deal really.Using the same amp that you would for the 4x15s on a trio of similar impedance 18s you would be able to get the smae power per sub. Again not that a hundred watts will make a difference at that point anyway.

Probably has little to do with you asking too much of the alt other than asking it to live more than 13 years.

Not if the SAZ-1500D is out of your price range, there isn't. MMATS has amps that are designed to do max power into a 0.5 ohm load but they're more expensive than the Sundown.

TYVM, that's pretty close to what I guessed. Normally I'd all but ignore the sub displacement, but as small as these boxes are, it makes a HUGE difference.

It's already too much if you care about how it actually sounds. If you just want to impress people with how much crap you can cram into a car, why stop until you have every square inch of possible real estate occupied with drivers?

Sub-C radio control type cells I assume? Same principle.

I've got a BatCap 800 (it's a zapped battery that sits over 13.5V and has a low ESR) but I've never put it to use really. It's going in the new system. It's small and light and should be plenty for my system. I'm not competing, just running a moderately sized daily system.

Nice and clean and, I'm going to guess, loud?

Sealed, just big enough to enclose the driver is about right. Ported, not much bigger than that. Hahaha! We should call you "Mr. 0.707" Well, I couldn't go to .85 even because the sub wouldn't fit in a box that small. The fun part is going to be building the .5 @ 25hz that I'm planning. That's an awfully long pipe. Aren't you worried about port resonances or driver freezing? Using a pretty small port thanks to the low tuning an amount of power I'll be running. 2 x 3" ports with .75" radius flares will keep the port velocity manageable and the peak velocity will fall at a frequency low enough that I'm not too concerned. First port resonance is up around 200Hz, so well out of the pass band. BTW, what's the driver displacement?

Sealed, just big enough to enclose the driver is about right. Ported, not much bigger than that. Hahaha! We should call you "Mr. 0.707" Well, I couldn't go to .85 even because the sub wouldn't fit in a box that small. The fun part is going to be building the .5 @ 25hz that I'm planning.

They're too small Won't match the 100.2s that I've got. I guess I'll deal with it.

Sealed, just big enough to enclose the driver is about right. Ported, not much bigger than that.

DVC isn't that important with lower powered subs. They have different coils available to match what you need. I'd rather have that than simply a D4 as my only option. What if I can't get what I want with a D4?

How big of a trunk are we talking here. Getting 4 12s into a runk with proper airspace is no small feat. More cone area means more airspace needed. Unless you're talking something like a Crown Vic, Town Car, or Caprice/Impala, I don't think you'll have nearly enough room.

Depends on which 3sitxy you're talking about. The .1 is for OEM integration. The .2 is a pretty powerful processor that also does OEM integration. The Alpine H701 is more powerful than either and can be had for about the same price. One major thing that the Alpine and Rockford units do that the AC unit does not is time alignment. That's the main reason that I never even considered getting one.

the reason the small quality shops are the ones closing is that they charge appropriately for the work that they do. There's a saying that you can have two of cheap, fast and good. Too many people only care about cheap and fast and good shops aren't in that business. Nothing that they do will not have "good" as one of the two choices. They might do good and cheap, but it'll take awhile. Or they do good and fast but you pay for it. Choose cheap and fast and get what you pay for.

nah hes doin tha big 3 he already has 1/0ga on tha postivie terminal so he needs alot of inputs for 1/0 on tha - I'm talking about a battery terminal that has a threaded stud on it. From there just just put a ring terminal on whatever sized wire you need and stack as many of them as you need on the stud. Cap it with a nut and call it a day.

How can the amp manual tell you what size alt you need? Every car, every application is different. The current needs for every system is different. For music, the stock alt with some extra batteries should be sufficient.

Depending on the model Batcap, it is a battery. Model 800 and above are batteries. Don't the 1200Ds only take 4 ga power wire? Depending on the length of the wire run from the distro block to the amp, 4ga should be more than enough.

Nope. Cross section of 1/0 is 55mm^2. Cross section of only 4/0 is 120mm^2. 6/0 is almost 2x the size of 4/0.

^^^ Good. Someone else gets it.

Just get a basic terminal with a threaded stud and use ring terminals. Then you can use whatever size wire you need. BTW, I think you mean 4ga and 8ga. 4/0 is really big. 8/0 is freakin' HUGE (more than 4 runs of 1/0)!

Um...no. Start with the battery upgrade. The alt is only going to help with the continuous draw. With music, your draw is nowhere near continuous. The alt would be of minimal help on the transient voltage drops. The second part of the issue is that upgrading to a HO alt without increasing storage capacity, pretty much negates any gains that you might have gotten from the alt. Bottom line, most of the time adding a battery or two will fix most of your problems and you'll need the batteries to see any gain from an alt upgrade anyway. Do the battery.

You'll need some of the rings for the Big-3. How many depends on the battery terminals.

Well when you look at the cars that he makes enclosures for it becomes pretty clear why. The people doing stuff to those cars don't care about much more than it looking impressive...he's just catering to the market he chose.